The unique Australian festival bringing opera to the outback

Immerse yourself in the arts to get a sense of place in the Australian outback.

The bush poets my uncles always loved start to make sense as I fly into Longreach. I do love a sunburnt country. I also love watching the tiny shadow of this small Dash 8 Qantas plane as it glides over the red dirt stubbled with dry, brown grass.

My window seat offers great views of the landscape, which is dotted with shrubby trees and divided by the winding rivers that cut their own path through the Queensland outback. I love seeing the sudden glint of white and silver rooftops amid the earthy pastels, which indicate touchdown is mere moments away. But Longreach isn’t our final destination.

Singing In The Night at sunset — Singing In The Night is in full swing as the sun sets. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

We still have a two-hour drive to Winton, through Big Sky Country and wide-open emu farms, where we see the resident fauna running on their long legs away from the road we dare to zoom along.

Winton’s big sky is unlike any other: a vibrant blue, unbroken by buildings or mountains all the way to the horizon. A few low jump-ups are the only ripples that break up the straight lines. Fluffy clouds dot the sky all around, like a mural.

Winton itself is a place that marks a lot of beginnings. Of Australia’s aviation future. And our dinosaur history. Of bush poets rising to countrywide fame. But this weekend, I’m here to see the opera. Yes, I said opera.

In fact, the very next night I find myself at the fascinating Australian Age of Dinosaurs, having just taken a tour of the giant footprints taken from Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways nearby and learning about the Australian dinosaurs that once roamed this land.

crowds at the Dark Sky Serenade — Crowds at the Dark Sky Serenade. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

As the light fades, I take my seat alongside 1700-odd guests in front of a large stage bookended by soaring dinosaur statues. The orange and blue sky becomes the backdrop for the show as the setting sun casts the orchestra into silhouette form.

That’s when some of Opera Queensland’s best seasoned and new talent take to the stage – a roster that included Eurovision star Kate Miller-Heidke in 2024 – sharing some of the most popular opera tunes of all time. A lively host encourages guests to sing along, if they can.

the Dark Sky Serenade stage in Winton — The Dark Sky Serenade stage at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs in Winton. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

And it’s an atmosphere unlike anything I’ve ever experienced at a city theatre. It’s both a joyful, unpretentious celebration of the art form and an ode to the quintessential Australian outback scenes surrounding us.

This is the Dark Sky Serenade , one of the main events held during Opera Queensland’s annual Festival of Outback Opera in Winton. And this small town embraces it, and new visitors, wholeheartedly.

the performance of Kate Miller-Heidke at the Dark Sky Serenade — Kate Miller-Heidke performing at the Dark Sky Serenade. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

Over the next week, panels, performances, morning tea singalongs, Banjo Paterson readings, Aussie clown shows and more fill my calendar. My favourite? A long lunch with a sumptuous three-course menu curated by top Brisbane chefs.

Produce has either been sourced from local farms or flown in from Brisbane, and students from the Big Red Truck Outback College of Hospitality Trade Training serve as front-of-house staff. Guests from all walks of life mingle between live cello and opera serenades around communal tables set up inside the Waltzing Matilda Centre, the museum dedicated to Banjo Paterson’s 1895 hit poem.

That sense of camaraderie is a theme throughout the festival. A pure buzz that filters through the crowd which includes everyone from visitors to arty types to the toughest of farmers, and is palpable throughout each performance.

Locals and travellers interact over pub meals, opera events and boulder opal purchases. Today, it’s clear there’s no shortage of creative minds in Winton. But there was once a shortage of ways to express that creativity.

the comedic performance of The CrackUp Sisters — The CrackUp Sisters’ performance is a mix of comedy and music. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

Amanda Lynn, performer and part of The CrackUp Sisters ’ act, puts it best: “As an artist in the outback, we regional people have a ‘we’ll just do it’ attitude. But it’s amazing to be able to see such a well-cultivated performance. It’s really inspiring."

One female audience member visiting from a small Aussie town praises Amanda for giving regional Australia “so much inspiration for what’s possible".

And another usually strong-and-silent-type Winton rancher is brought to tears after a panel session at the local pub, when he thanks the festival organisers for allowing his school-aged daughter the opportunity to engage in the arts.

locals enjoying a show with their furry friends — Locals and their furry friends enjoying a show. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

I have always loved the arts – since I was too young to read but was still creating stories with the pictures for my attentive audience of toys – and appreciate that part of living in Sydney means I can pick and choose what to circle on my cultural calendar. There are touring art exhibitions in world-class galleries. Delectable cuisine readily available. And opera has a year-round season.

Although I have never taken any of this for granted, it wasn’t until I attended the Festival of Outback Opera that I began to fully appreciate the cultural institutions I have access to. And renewed my wonder and love for what the arts can do.

A traveller’s checklist

instrumentalists playing in Longreach — Instrumentalists playing in the landscape of Longreach. (Image: Glenn Hunt Photo)

The Festival of Outback Opera is held every May in Winton and Longreach. In 2025, events will run from 13−19 May.

Getting there

Qantas Link flies daily from Townsville and Brisbane/Meanjin to Longreach. Alternatively, the Spirit of the Outback sleeper train carries passengers from Brisbane to Longreach. Then hire a car from either Avis or Budget at Longreach Airport and drive two hours to Winton. During the festival, attendees can take advantage of both Queensland Rail packages and chartered flight day-packages straight into Winton.

Staying there

Winton has a handful of pub hotels, motels and caravan parks for visitors. Given its small size, rooms book out quickly, so plan ahead. To elevate your stay, head 10 kilometres out of town to glamp on working cattle station, Rangelands Outback Camp .

City buzz, gourmet trails, surf breaks and art scenes are all at your fingertips.

When it comes to planning a trip, picking a holiday destination is the easy part. The real dilemma is where to set yourself up for the night. Do you go coastal, city, or countryside? Somewhere remote and rugged, or right in the action? Luckily, the Sunshine Coast, and huge number of amazing Sunshine Coast day trips, have kindly made the choice for you.

Ditch the hotel-hopping and suitcase-lugging. Instead, base yourself at Novotel Sunshine Coast or Mantra Mooloolaba , where big-city culture, vine-covered valleys, and theme parks are all within a two-hour drive.

1. Sunshine Coast to Brisbane

Drive time: 1 hour 20 minutes (105km)

Shake off the sand from your sandals and swap the beach for the throb of the Queensland capital. Ease in gently with a bougainvillea-filled stroll through South Bank, iced latte in hand, before cooling off at Streets Beach lagoon – Brisbane’s answer to the coast (but without the waves).

Once firmly in big-city mode, hit up the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) , home to Australia’s largest collection of modern and contemporary artworks. Dive into the past at the Queensland Museum, where prehistoric fossils of Australian dinosaurs and megafauna collide with First Nations cultural collections and interactive science exhibits.

All this learning got you hungry? Howard Smith Wharves calls. Here, riverside dining delivers breweries with meat-forward menus, Japanese fine dining and overwater bars. If you’ve got room for more, Fortitude Valley’s shopping boutiques await you and your wallet.

woman walking around Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) — Wander the Gallery of Modern Art. (Image: TEQ)

2. Sunshine Coast to the Scenic Rim

Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (170km)

Make your way inland to the Scenic Rim for the state’s best vineyards and age-old volcanic slopes. Start your day early (like, sparrow’s breakfast early) at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in Lamington National Park . Here, take a treetop walk through the canopy and hand-feed the wild birds who flock here.

Next, it’s your turn to eat. Here, the food scene operates where locally sourced produce is an expectation, not an exception. Order a picnic basket crammed with regional wine and cheese to devour next to the creek at Canungra Valley Vineyards . Or perhaps a grazing platter of vegan and non-vegan cheeses at Witches Falls Winery .

Feeling bold? Tackle the Twin Falls circuit in Springbrook National Park. Or keep the gourmet life going with a Scenic Rim Brewery tasting paddle, best enjoyed while taking in the rise of the Great Dividing Range.

woman with cheese and wine at Witches Falls Winery — Enjoy a cheese platter at Witches Falls Winery. (Image: TEQ)

3. Sunshine Coast to the Gold Coast

Drive time: 2 hours (180km)

Surf, sand and sparkling skylines might be the Gold Coast’s MO, but there’s more to Surfers Paradise and beyond. Kick things off with a beachfront coffee at Burleigh Heads, then hike through Burleigh Head National Park to look over the ocean and whale sightings (dependent on the season, of course).

Cool off in the calm waters of Tallebudgera Creek before chowing down on the famously buttery Moreton Bay bug rolls at Rick Shores . Travelling with the kids? Then you can’t miss Australia’s theme park capital, with Dreamworld ’s big rides and Warner Bros. Movie World ’s Hollywood treatment at hand to keep the family entertained.

aerial view of Tallebudgera Creek — Dive into Tallebudgera Creek. (Image: TEQ)

4. Sunshine Coast to Tweed Heads

Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (200km)

Dare to cross enemy lines? Then welcome to New South Wales. Tweed Heads blends the laid-back attitude of the Northern Rivers with high-quality dining, experimental art, and farm-fresh indulgence – a combo worth the drive.

Start strong with a long, lazy brunch at Tweed River House , then swing by Tropical Fruit World for exotic finds like red dragon fruit, handfuls of lychees and black sapote. Next, hit M|Arts Precinct – an art deco hub of micro galleries, artist workshops and one-off boutiques.

Round off the day with sunset drinks at Husk Distillers among the glowing cane fields, and order one with their famous Ink Gin. You’ll thank us later.

exterior of Husk Distillers — Taste the famous Ink Gin at Husk Distillers. (Image: Destination NSW)

5. Sunshine Coast Hinterland

Drive time: 1 hour (70km)

Strap on those hiking boots and make tracks inland, where volcanic peaks, misty rainforest and hinterland townships beckon. Ease in with the Glass House Mountains Lookout Walk, or, if you have energy to burn, tackle the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk for a 360-degree sight of the surrounding summits.

Next: Montville. This township delivers European-style architecture and old-world appeal. Nearby, settle in at Flame Hill Vineyard, where a large pour of estate-grown wine comes with encompassing views of the countryside.

Not ready to leave the hinterland villages just yet? Of course not. Meander past art galleries and indie shops at Maleny. Nab some fudge from Sweets on Maple for a sweet fix. Or go salty at Maleny Dairies with a farm tour and a chunky wedge of their deliciously creamy cheese.

End the day among the eucalypts and rainforests of Kondalilla National Park. Here, the Kondalilla Falls Circuit winds down through trees humming with life to a rock pool beneath a waterfall – as if designed for soaking tired feet before heading back to the coast.

view of Mount Ngungun on the scenic rim queensland — Take on the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk (Image: TEQ)

Start planning your Sunshine home base at all.com.