A New Tour Delivers A Torres Strait Day Trip

Although the seductively laid-back islands scattered in the sparkling waters between Cape York and Papua New Guinea lie well off the tourist trail, they’ve attracted intrepid travellers for centuries. Now, an unforgettable day tour makes it easy to interact with the unique island cultures of the Torres Strait.

We’re somewhere north of Cape York when the twin turboprop Dash 8 descends through a thick blanket of cloud. Looking out the window I see richly vegetated islands surrounded by banks of mangroves, wafer-thin crescents of white sand and mudflats riddled with so many channels they look like the cross-sections of a brain. But it’s the surrounding water that captures my attention.

Even on an overcast day, the ocean is a shade of turquoise so vibrant it looks unreal. “When I see that colour I know I’m home," says John Palmer, who has lived in the Torres Strait for eight years. He’s one of two men introducing intrepid travellers to ‘Australia’s last frontier’ and, as we prepare to land, his business partner warns me that, “We’re only a few degrees from the equator, so don’t forget to put on sunscreen."

an aerial view of the white-sand islands in the the Torres Strait. — White sands abut turquoise seas in the Torres Strait.

Numerous islands to explore

Fraser Nai is an “outer island boy" from the tiny coral cay of Masig Island, one of 274 islands scattered like a string of pearls between the northernmost tip of mainland Australia and Papua New Guinea. They range from sandy spits to rugged volcanic islands and are divided into five major groups that are represented by a star on the Torres Strait Islander flag.

a Torres Strait Islander Flag — Immersive tours with A Strait Day fly the flag for Torres Strait Islander culture.

It’s closer than you think

The most populous cluster is the Inner Group, which includes the region’s main airport on Ngurupai (Horn Island). Although the flight from Cairns takes a tick under two hours, it’s a journey few travellers make. Fraser and John are determined to change that. It’s why they’ve created a new day tour connecting six local operators to showcase the region’s natural beauty and the rich culture of this maritime crossroads.

A unique culture awaits

“When it comes to Indigenous Australians, a lot of people think about Aboriginal Australians," says Fraser, who sports a broad grin and thin dreads that fall onto a bright turquoise shirt matching the colour of the ocean in the background. “But we’re Torres Strait Australians… We have our own food, customs and dance, and we share them through culture and ceremonies that are unique to us."

a ruined jetty stand in the middle of the sea off Ngurupai (Horn Island) — The knobbly knees of a ruined jetty stand like a sculpture in the seas off Ngurupai (Horn Island). (Image: Phlip Vids)

That syncretic culture is on display when Fraser welcomes us to an epic buffet lunch on Waibene (Thursday Island), a scenic six-minute ferry ride away. “Big eso father. May you bless them kai kai," he intones before we eat, using the local word for thanks (“big eso") and a Polynesian one for food (“kai kai") while highlighting the strong sway Christianity still holds.

a seafood feast during the Strait Day — Enjoy a few tails from the islands as part of a cultural feast. (Image: Phlip Vids)

The food tells the same story; amid an island feast of supersized crayfish tails, and mounds of roasted yams and damper cooked in banana leaf are several outliers. Like the zingy namas. This dish of fresh mackerel cured in lime, coconut and soy is a legacy of the Japanese divers who formed the backbone of the local pearling industry in the 19th century.

an overlooking view of the pristine waters and greenery surrounding Waibene (Thursday Island) — Breathtaking vistas like this one from Waibene (Thursday Island) are the norm for locals.

They were just the latest in a long line of visitors to make their mark on the archipelago, which sits at the centre of an extensive maritime network.

Long before the arrival of Europeans in 1605, Macassan sailors from modern Indonesia were annual visitors, while Torres Strait Islanders made regular trading voyages to Papua New Guinea and down the Australian coast all the way to Cairns.

Dancing and storytelling

Those journeys are recreated at the next stop by enthusiastic young performers who leap across the sand in grass skirts, headdresses and anklets. “Torres Strait Islanders pass on their knowledge through dancing," explains Badu Island Traditional Owner Joey Laifoo, who also leads the local dance troupe, Island Stars. “We’ve got educational dances, spiritual ones, fun ones… It’s very important to show tourists because if you get it out there then it stays alive and that’s very important for us."

a boy blowing into a conch shell — Witness young boys blow into conch shells. (Image: Phlip Vids)

The most dramatic moment comes when Joey uses the local ‘telephone’, emptying his lungs into a giant conch shell to salute the four winds.

“We have an ancient way of telling time," he explains. “Different winds blow at different times of year, so that’s our calendar. We know when it’s turtle-mating season, when to pick the fruit, when to go hunting, when the fish are fattest."

This knowledge has been passed down through countless generations, and the Torres Strait Islanders’ ongoing connection to Country was officially recognised in the landmark Mabo ruling. That was the culmination of a case that began at the unprepossessing courthouse on Waibene, one of several sights we pass on a tour of the island with 82-year-old Ron Laifoo, who, incidentally, is Joey’s dad’s cousin.

young boys dancing and performing during the Strait Day — A Strait Day includes a dancing and storytelling show performed by the Island Stars. (Image: Phlip Vids)

A multicultural place for all religions

A former pearl diver whose grandfather came over from China, Ron immediately puts a serious dent in Adelaide’s claim as the City of Churches. Within a few blocks we pass houses of worship for Roman Catholics, Anglicans, Mormons, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists, Pentecostal and Uniting Christians and followers of the Baha’i faith. “There’s even a bikie’s church," he says playfully, pointing toward the Torres Hotel before we head up to Green Hill Fort for views all the way to Cape York, some 36 kilometres away.

We see more evidence of the rich mixture of cultures when we pass through the cemetery, with a Buddhist monument honouring the 700 Japanese divers who died here and a Muslim section for Malay residents. Each subsequent layer of migration has added to the rich traditions of the archipelago.

a scenic view of the seascape from the Green Hill Fort — Soak up views from Green Hill Fort.

Embracing diversity and multiculturalism

“Torres Strait wouldn’t be what it is without Japanese, Malay and Chinese people," says Ron. “This is the most multicultural place I’ve ever seen and I couldn’t belong anywhere else." It’s a sentiment echoed by tour guide Perina Drummond, a former fashion director with Aboriginal, Torres Strait Islander and Malay ancestry.

After moving to Melbourne to pursue her career, she came back when Covid-19 hit, and a trip that was supposed to last two months has turned into two years and counting. “I’ve travelled around the world and I realised people pay millions of dollars to live the lifestyle we have here… I have a freezer full of crayfish, I wake up every morning to these beautiful views – what more could you want?"

The details

A Strait Day costs $1499 per person and departs from Cairns on the first Saturday of the month from April to September. Each tour has a maximum of 32 people and is split into two smaller groups.

Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

Exploring K’gari

ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island — Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island — Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

Unwind at sunset

two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort — Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

Indulge and disconnect

woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa — Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

Getting there

kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island — The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.

It’s possible to see the Torres Strait in a day – here’s how