This giant coral chest could save the Great Barrier Reef

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If one of the world’s most important ecosystems fails, this clever insurance policy may prove to be its saving grace; take a look inside the world’s first living coral biobank.

It’s the most peaceful nursery I’ve ever seen. Never mind that the babies constantly feed, incessantly tussle and never properly go to sleep. But, then again, it’s hard to sleep when you don’t have a brain.

In three raised ‘cribs’ in the Cairns Aquarium, 392 small pieces of coral resembling tiny trees, sticks of scored calamari dipped in beetroot sauce, and clumps of marshmallow-pink hair billowing in the breeze sit neatly side by side. Attached to metal plates, they grow bigger and stronger every day, thanks to their uncanny ability to clone themselves.

Maintaining life inside a coral chest

The corals live a charmed life, gently rocked by a wave machine, cleaned regularly by their fishy friends, and made to feel at home with lights that mimic sunrise, sunset and cloud cover over the Great Barrier Reef. The only bother is when their neighbour gets too close and they offer a backhanded sting to mark their territory.

“Hmm, we might need to move that one," observes our guide Makayla Grady, as her discerning eye notices the thin tentacle of a fluoro-green coral giving its tank-mate a swift whip on the backside (in a Chucky-like twist, this kind of nursery play can result in fatalities). “We love them, but they can get a bit competitive."

a coral fragment in the Forever Reef Project
Fragments of mature corals from the Great Barrier Reef blossom in the Cairns Aquarium.

Though the little corals in front of us are animals, akin to an upside-down jellyfish – or, most commonly, hundreds or thousands of animals called polyps clustered together, who are peas in a pod with their algal best mates called zooxanthellae (what were their parents thinking) – they’re not babies as such.

Rather, they’re fragments of mature corals living on the Great Barrier Reef, surgically removed by a team of divers (don’t worry, the upside of no brain is no pain), then DNA tested and microchipped like the family dog, so it’s clear who they are and where they come from.

The state-of-the-art nursery they’re subsequently placed in is the world’s first living coral biobank – a facility designed to insure one of the world’s natural wonders. Because, as most of us are aware, climate change is posing a significant threat to reefs worldwide, and time is running out.

the most recent coral collection for the Forever Reef Project
The recent coral collection is secured in the quarantine tank.

A giant ‘coral ark’ in the making

The Cairns living coral biobank, established as part of the Great Barrier Reef Legacy’s Forever Reef Project , aims to ultimately protect all 415 species of hard coral on the Great Barrier Reef, later expanding to include soft and international corals. The full collection is planned to lodge in a giant ‘coral ark’ (inspired by Noah) in Port Douglas, with smaller biobanks run by traditional owner groups dotted along Queensland’s coastline.

the Forever Reef Project coral facility
The coral specimens are preserved in a living ‘coral ark’.

In a similar vein to the seed vault tucked into a snowy mountain in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard – a repository for millions of important seeds from around the world – the biobank will keep our precious corals safe, and they can be replanted on the reef if things go belly up in the big blue.

collected corals being brought up to the vessel
Divers bring coral specimens to the vessel.

Biobank tours at Cairns Aquarium

Though the giant ark is still a few years away, the Cairns Aquarium is letting visitors get acquainted with the biobank by offering 30-minute tours through its on-site holding facility. The aim is to help people understand more about the fascinating, but arguably underrated, creatures that underpin the entire ecosystem of the Great Barrier Reef. In short, without coral, the aquatic empire breaks down, impacting everything from the fish, to the sharks, to the whales, to the adorable pygmy seahorses.

the world's first behind-the-scenes tour of A Living Coral Biobank (the Forever Reef Project)
Visit the world’s first living coral biobank in Cairns.

The ongoing threat to the Great Barrier Reef

Despite their indisputable importance, the flamboyant gardens that landscape the sea received little attention until a mass bleaching event on the Great Barrier Reef in 2016 highlighted their fragile nature.

“Pre-2016, the only real questions I got asked [from guests] were where to find Nemo or how long a turtle lives for," says Great Barrier Reef Legacy operations manager Paul Myers, who has spent 15 years on the reef as a dive instructor. “After the biggest bleaching event on record, the questions became a lot more educated and were more centred around, ‘tell me about the health of the reef, tell me about coral bleaching’."

Paul Myers and Cameron Bee inspecting corals in the facility
Paul Myers and Cameron Bee inspect corals in the facility.

Though bleaching became a hot topic, the nuances of the corals it impacted remained largely elusive, with Dr Charlie Veron, a key collaborator on the Forever Reef Project, still one of the few people worldwide who can identify corals to a species level underwater.

a coral fragment in the Forever Reef Project
The Forever Reef Project is home to precious corals collected from the Great Barrier Reef.

“About two years ago, I did a course on coral ID and there were about 30 people in the room," says Myers. “All of us had been working on the reef for more than 10 years, but none of us knew anything about coral identification. Firstly, it is so tricky, but also, you just don’t get asked."

That’s where the living coral biobank tours play an important role, not just in safeguarding the reef’s corals, but to help educate people on their importance and vulnerability, and, in turn, the importance of tackling climate change. As Cairns Aquarium founder and CEO Daniel Liepnik says, “Addressing climate issues requires changes to human behaviour, and getting people to care is the first step."

Dr. Dean Miller tagging corals and checking health before collecting
Dr. Dean Miller evaluates the health of the corals prior to collection.

Growing hope for the future of the reef

Unfortunately, climate change is a complex, long-term problem to resolve – and in the context of the Great Barrier Reef and more frequent extreme weather events, time is not on our side. This leaves the biobank as one of the few signals of hope that suggest things might work out okay. “It’s not the solution, but it’s adding resilience to the system," says Myers. “Because if we lose the reef, it’s gone forever."

So although the little, brainless corals in the biobank can never sleep peacefully, knowing they’re tucked away safe and sound in their quiet, comfy cribs means that we can.

Collected corals being brought up to the vessel
The freshly collected corals are carefully brought up to the vessel. (Image: Martin Stringer)

Living coral biobank tour fees

On top of the regular admission fee, living coral biobank tours at the Cairns Aquarium  are $20 per adult and $14 per child, with all tour fees donated to the Forever Reef Project.

For more travel inspiration, news and tips, read our travel guides on the Great Barrier Reef and Cairns.
Emily McAuliffe
Emily McAuliffe is a Melbourne-based freelance travel writer. She is on the board of the Australian Society of Travel Writers and her writing and photography has featured in many titles in Australia and abroad. She loves nothing more than touching down in a new destination or approaching a familiar place with fresh eyes.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.