“The world’s greatest migration" is happening right now on Christmas Island. Discover how to witness it.
Christmas Island is a wonder at any time of year; it’s one of Australia’s most remote and beautiful territories, yet many Australians remain unaware of it. But once a year in the wet season of October/November – and in fact, right now – the pristine beaches, remote dirt roads, green jungle floors and even purpose-built wildlife bridges are covered in a sea of vibrant red crabs on their annual migration.
Adult crabs make their way to the ocean to mate. (Image: Christmas Island Tourism Association)
And when we say a sea, we mean it. Right now, estimates of up to one hundred million red crabs are making their way from their usual home (eating leaf litter from the rainforest floor) to descend upon the island’s beaches. Why? It’s breeding season.
Several weeks later, tiny offspring reverse the trip. (Image: Christmas Island Tourism Association)
Once described by Sir David Attenborough as “the world’s greatest migration", the Christmas Island crab migration phenomenon takes these crustaceans a week or so of travel time before they can mate. About two to four weeks later, their teeny tiny offspring (we’re talking about five millimetres wide) make the reverse trip to join the adult crabs back inland.
How to see it
Bikes are best during the red crab migration. (Image: Kirsty Faulkner)
Besides watching the iconic Attenborough documentary, travellers can reach Christmas Island by taking an almost four-hour flight from Perth. All major towns in Australia fly to Perth.
Upon arrival, you can hire a car from the Christmas Island Visitor Centre , with 4WD recommended. Although during the red crab migration, many roads remain closed and riding a bicycle or walking is the best way to get around.
Once there, it won’t be difficult to spot the heaving red carpet of crabs, but several tours offer a private charter that includes food and a front-row seat to the red crab migration with an expert tour guide providing more context and insight.
What else to do on Christmas Island
Time your trip for the red crab migration, but stay for the rest of Christmas Island’s natural wonders. (Image: Justin Gilligan)
Almost two-thirds of the island is a national park, offering lush rainforest, quiet beaches and an eclectic mix of flora and fauna on land and in the surrounding ocean.
Some of the world’s rarest birds call Christmas Island home. Join a tour to see the nesting grounds of red-footed and brown boobies, and more. Grab a snorkel and dive into deep-blue ocean drop-offs, where peaceful whale shark giants are often found. Or, pick a secret swimming spot from several deserted grotto pools or spectacular rainforest waterfalls.
Thanks to a unique mix of cultures on the island, the cuisine here is an equally eclectic mix of Malay, Singaporean, Australian and Chinese.
Kassia Byrnes is the Native Content Editor for Australian Traveller and International Traveller. She's come a long way since writing in her diary about family trips to Grandma's. After graduating a BA of Communication from University of Technology Sydney, she has been writing about her travels (and more) professionally for over 10 years for titles like AWOL, News.com.au, Pedestrian.TV, Body + Soul and Punkee. She's addicted to travel but has a terrible sense of direction, so you can usually find her getting lost somewhere new around the world. Luckily, she loves to explore and have new adventures – whether that’s exploring the backstreets, bungee jumping off a bridge or hiking for days. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @probably_kassia.
The ultimate road trip begins and ends on NSW’s stunning Grand Pacific Drive.
Whales, charming villages, fine wine and stunning natural vistas: there’s a lot to love about a road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive in New South Wales. Winding from the Royal National Park through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven before heading inland to the Southern Highlands, this scenic drive makes for an unforgettable road trip.
But like all great road trips, it’s not just about the drive but the stops made along the way. From incredible farm-to-plate (and grape-to-glass) dining options to unbeatable natural vistas and quaint towns with beautiful accommodation, there’s plenty to explore en route.
Spend time in Shellharbour Marina.
Where to eat
What is a road trip without incredible food? Whether you’re after fresh seafood, slow-cooked paddock-to-plate feasts or delicious wines, you’ll find something around every bend along Grand Pacific Drive.
Restaurant Santino is a local Wollongong secret we can’t keep quiet any longer. With a fresh take on Italian cuisine, servings are hearty and flavours are comforting. The chitarra with blue swimmer crab, garlic, chilli, parsley and crustacean oil is a crowd favourite.
Keep it local in Shellharbour with a menu all about fresh local produce at Relish on Addison. From South Coast oysters and blue swimmer crab linguine to crispy pork belly, surf and turf takes on an elevated meaning here.
Kiama’s neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar, Little Betty’s, is just as good for a tasty share plate as it is for creative cocktails. The signature Grilled Octopus with burnt honey, garlic confit and sautéed Asian greens is worth a trip on its own.
Only the best will do in Shoalhaven, where multi-award-winning Bangalay Dining uses native Australian ingredients to bring its dishes to life. Start with the Smoked trout croquette before moving on to the sautéed potato gnocchi. Don’t forget the white chocolate mousse for dessert.
Meanwhile, the Southern Highlands are full of culinary highlights. From dining on incredibly fresh, local fare (we’re talking ingredients plucked from the team’s on-site kitchen garden or sourced through local producers) at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima to creating gin blends at Millsheds Distillery.
Taste native flavours at Bangalay Dining.
Exploring nature
Scenery is everything when hitting the road, and Grand Pacific Drive serves it up in spades. Drivers don’t even have to leave the car to enjoy the iconic ocean views from Seacliff Bridge (but several lookouts make it easy to stop).
Seaside Kiama boasts stunning beaches and famous blowholes. But travellers can also swap ocean for rainforest when taking the Minnamurra Rainforest walk, culminating in a picturesque waterfall. Or soar overhead at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures.
Cruise along the stunning Grand Pacific Drive.
Between May and November, 30,000 whales make their way passed the South Coast between May and November. Spot them from the coastal shores or join a whale-watching cruise from Shellharbour Marina or Jervis Bay. Dive in with Woebegone Freedive.
Shellharbour’s Killalea Regional Park is home to a traditional bush tucker and medicine walk with Aboriginal tour group, Gumaraa. Learn Indigenous healing practices and gain a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage and wisdom of the land’s Traditional Owners.
Wollongong is the perfect place for hikers, with the 6.5-kilometre Wodi Wodi track serving up views, settler history and a variety of landscapes in one loop. If you prefer, skip the walk and pull up at Bald Hill Lookout for expansive views south towards Wollongong (and a hang-glider or two).
For something truly unique, join the Highland Cow experience at The Swallow’s Nest in the Southern Highlands. In a brand-new offering, get a taste of farm life and help groom and feed these gorgeous creatures.
Wander the Kiama Coast Walk.
Unique experiences
No need to choose between an adrenaline rush or a culture fix, Grand Pacific Drive serves up both.
Soar into aviation history at Shellharbour’s HARS Aviation Museum.Tour the museum, then join a guided walk onto the wing of the record-breaking Qantas Boeing 747 and see the significant historic aircraft up close.
If ever there was a place to skydive, it’s in Wollongong. Dive from 15,000 feet (tandem, of course) with Sky Dive Wollongong and see the coastal beauty of this region from above.
Shoalhaven’s Bundanon Art Museum has to be one of the most unique offerings in the country. The legacy of artist Arthur Boyd and more than just a gallery, find eco-accommodation, fine dining, award-winning architecture and community here.
Kiama’s Crooked River Estate is about more than just delicious wine.Grab a picnic blanket and enjoy casual food and drinks with live music at Kick Back Fridays, every week.
Between June and August, the Southern Highlands’ Robertson attracts novice truffle hunters. Join the hunt at family-owned and operated Robertson Truffles (alternatively, you can order truffle treats online, if your sense of adventure isn’t up for it).
Discover hidden gems beneath the soil in the Southern Highlands. (Image: Destination NSW)
Where to stay
Road trips are the ultimate promotion for slow travel, encouraging visitors to take their time, enjoy the journey and stop along the way to really immerse themselves in local towns.
Find history and elegance at Berida Hotel in the Southern Highlands. Intimately set amongst gardens, but still close to the main street of Bowral, this 1920s private residence turned boutique hotel is the perfect stay.
Stay in one of Barranca’s private villas with views of rolling farmland overlooking the dramatic escarpment at Kangaroo Valley or be surrounded by native bushland (a short walk from the beach) in Jervis Bay.
Speaking of beachside escapes, Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach delivers unrivalled access to Wollongong’s beaches. These serviced apartments enjoy coastal views from spacious balconies.
For something completely different again, check in at Cicada Luxury Camping. Stay in safari-style or large bell tents, each with a private fire pit and top-notch kitchen facilities. Outside, enjoy spectacular countryside views.
