The best places to stay on Christmas Island

Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
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From a luxury eco lodge to a room at an inn known for its sunsets, here are 11 of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

There is a lot to see and do on Christmas Island. But when you do find time to catch your breath and recover from your day’s adventures, you will need to find somewhere to enjoy some quiet time and creature comforts. Whether you want to live it up at Swell Lodge, one of the most unique places to stay in WA, or you want to hole up in a more humble Airbnb abode, or a boutique Balinese-style retreat will most likely depend on your budget. Much of the accommodation on Christmas Island centres around Settlement, Poon Saan and Kampong and each offers something different. Here are some of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

Deserted beach, Beach walking tour, Christmas Island, Australia
There’s plenty to see on Christmas Island and finding accommodation in the heart of it all is easy.

Swell Lodge

The first thing that hits you as you walk into one of the two glass-fronted eco chalets that make up Swell Lodge is the immensity of the sea and sky.

Tucked away deep in Christmas Island National Park, Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. And when there is a swell running, it’s right in position, with the ocean stirring up a thundering crescendo in surround sound.

Swell Lodge Christmas Island
Enjoy pristine views from your luxury abode at Swell Lodge.

Eco-conscious travellers will love the fact the lodge is solar powered and runs a carbon-neutral program that includes offsetting emissions from its crab-safe lodge vehicle. A stay at Swell Lodge is all about secluded luxury, and includes your own private chef.

Best for: Solo travellers or couples.

Aerial shot of Swell Lodge, Christmas Island, Australia
Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat

Although Christmas Island is an Australian territory, it’s nearest neighbour is Indonesia, which means a breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat enjoys elevated ocean views from its position on Phosphate Hill near the small township of Poon Saan. Sit on the expansive deck to soak up some sun and enjoy a drink while drinking in the soothing palette of blue sky and turquoise seas.

The retreat, which accommodates up to six people, is within five to 10 minutes of the town in Settlement and Flying Fish Cove and many of Christmas Island’s best restaurants and bars.

Best for: Families or groups.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat, Christmas Island, Australia
A breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Cocos Padang Lodge

This refurbished heritage accommodation is a welcome addition on Christmas Island. The original building, which was typical of post-Second World War accommodation, was provided to its Cocos Malay workers by the Christmas Island Phosphate Mine until the 1960s.

All up, there are four self-contained apartments within walking distance to the local supermarket and the iconic Golden Bosun Tavern, one of the best places to eat on Christmas Island. Guests of the Cocos Padang Lodge are able to use the BBQ facilities at The Sunset.

Best for: Families or couples.

Cocos Padang Christmas Island accommodation
The Cocos Padang Lodge is a welcome addition to the Christmas Island accommodation offering.

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Captain’s Last Resort

One of the biggest highlights of staying at the Captain’s Last Resort on Christmas Island is the frigatebirds-eye’s view over the water. Keep your binoculars handy, as there is a lot of activity, from spinner dolphins lining up in pods to perform synchronised routines to a diverse array of birdlife pootling past the window.

After spending the day enjoying some of the best wilderness walks on Christmas Island, wander down to the main tourism precinct to meet some of the eccentric and warm-hearted locals.

The one-bedroom cottage is best-suited to singles and couples who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Best for: Solo travellers and couples.

Exterior, Captain's Last Resort, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia
The one-bedroom cottage is best suited to those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Diver’s Villa

The reefs off Christmas Island are considered to be one of nature’s great masterpieces amid the scuba diving community, and this villa, built in the 1930s, is designed to accommodate groups who want to share an underwater adventure.

The Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows built by the Christmas Island Phosphate Company that is still standing and the refurbished space, known on the island as Married Quarters 8 has been decorated in a contemporary colonial style.

We love that you can source seasonal ingredients from the garden such as papaya, coconuts, lemongrass, mint, lime and bananas. All up, there are four bedrooms and there is another one-bedroom waterfront villa, Sea Spray, which can also be rented out.

Best for: A group getaway.

Diver's Villa, Christmas Island, Australia
Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows.

CI Apartments

When WA residents pressed pause on their international travel plans, they started rediscovering the wonders of WA, with Christmas Island perfectly positioned to cater to adventurous travellers. Enter CI Apartments, which offers contemporary-style accommodation and a range of one-, two-, or three-bedroom apartments.

Comfy digs with a view are one thing, but there’s no substitute for location: after a busy day exploring Christmas Island, you will be grateful for the mini supermarket and Chinese restaurant across the road.

CI Apartments are also within a Malteser’s lob of the outdoor cinema, one of the best things to do on Christmas Island.

Best for: There are apartments to suit solo travellers, couples and families.

Exterior of CI Apartments, Christmas Island, Australia
CI Apartments offer contemporary-style accommodation.

Coconut Cottage

One of the latest additions to Christmas Island’s accommodation offering, Coconut Cottage is light and bright and, true to its name, shaded by coconut trees.

A secluded retreat in the main Settlement area of the island, it comes complete with views of the Indian Ocean and is set against a backdrop of wild national park.

Best for: Families or couples.

Coconut Cottage is an accommodation offering on Christmas Island
Check into Coconut Cottage, shaded by palms.

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The Sunset

If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely. Located along the waterfront in the beating heart of the Settlement township, Sunset offers unobstructed views of the ocean and its name is fitting when you’re afforded a front-row view of the sun dipping over the Indian Ocean from your balcony.

The pool at Sunset on Christmas Island
Take a dip in the pool to soak up the ocean views during your stay at Sunset.

The Sunset also has a pool, which isn’t exactly necessary with the big blue on your doorstep, but is greatly appreciated when you want a quick cool-off after exploring the wilderness.

Best for: Couples and solo travellers.

Sunset at Christmas Island, Australia
If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely.

Tropical Retreat and Roundabout Retreat & Villa Papaya

This three-bedroom, centrally located unit is spacious and comfortable with a verandah overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Bid a hasty retreat to the Tropical Retreat when the sun is poised high in the sky to watch birds cruising by on the flight path. Tropical Retreat is air-conditioned and has complimentary wi-fi and includes two queen beds and one room with twin singles.

While the best places to eat around Christmas Island are scattered nearby, there is a self-contained kitchen so you can whip up a feast and dine in.

Kitchen in Roundabout Retreat Christmas Island
Cook up a feast during your stay at Roundabout Retreat.

Other options include the newly renovated Roundabout Retreat (which sleeps a maximum of four) and one-bed Villa Papaya.

Best for: Families or couples.

Living room, Roundabout Retreat, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia
Have a relaxing stay at Roundabout Retreat.
Read our guide to Christmas Island for more great travel tips and visit the Christmas Island website to start planning your trip now.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti has written across print and digital for Australian Traveller and International Traveller for more than a decade and has spent more than two decades finding excuses to eat well and travel far. A prestigious News Corp cadetship launched her career at The Cairns Post, before a stint at The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald gave way to extended wanders through Canada, the US, Mexico, Central America, Asia and Europe. Carla was chief sub editor at delicious and has contributed to Good Food, Travel & Luxury, Explore Travel, Escape. While living in London, Carla was on staff at Condé Nast Traveller and The Sunday Times Travel desk and was part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK.
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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
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    From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

    Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

    Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
    The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

    The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

    Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
    Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

    Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

    Mt Ida Eco Cabin
    Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

    A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

    Three Dams Estate
    Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

    Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

    The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

    Silver Spoon winery
    The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

    Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

    Heathcote Wine Hub
    Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

    Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

    Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

    Envy gins
    Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Getting there

    It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

    Staying there

    Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

    Eating there

    French dishes at Chauncy
    Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

    At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

    Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

    Playing there

    Sanguine Estate
    Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

    At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.