Uncover the best culture and foodie experiences on Christmas Island

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The diversity of the language and culture on the island has influenced its identity and made for a beguiling mix of restaurants and a range of colourful cultural festivals each year.

While wildlife and adventure is the main goal of a trip to Christmas Island, you will find that food is the axis around which life in this unique Indian Ocean destination revolves. And if you’re going to fall into the rhythm of life here, the best way to do that is to roll your sleeves up and tuck into some of the local specialties.

Why was it named Christmas Island?

The reason Christmas Island, located 360 kilometres south of Java, was named after the yuletide is pretty simple: it’s because the English master of the East India Company, Captain William Mynors, sailed to the island on Christmas Day, 1643.

 

But it wasn’t until 139 years later, when phosphate was discovered on the island, that settlers and workers arrived, bringing with them a diverse range of cultural and religious traditions from Europe and Asia.

Christmas Island.
Above the beauty of Christmas Island.

How this history shapes the culture & food today

Fast forward to now and the island population is a multi-cultural, harmonious mix of Chinese, Malay and Australian culture where 63 per cent of households speak a language other than English at home.

 

This blended heritage is reflected on the menus at the pubs, cafes and restaurants dotted around CI, as the island is affectionately known. Dishes such as crispy spring rolls, deep-fried flavour-filled wontons, coconut-based seafood curry, stir-fries and nasi goreng lightly kissed with chilli, and, yes, even chicken parmigiana, all pull the threads of Christmas Island’s cultural heritage together like strands of colourful wool.

 

Visitors can experience the rich cultural heritage of Christmas Island year-round as, in addition to epic wildlife and nature experiences, the CI calendar is also packed with cultural festivals that nod to the Buddhist, Taoist and Muslim traditions linked to the religions practised within the community.

 

In between checking out some of the best snorkelling and diving sites for which Christmas Island is known, here are some of the must-do culture and foodie experiences on offer on Christmas Island.

Where to eat & drink on Christmas Island

Sample street food at the Flying Fish Café, Flying Fish Cove

This popular food truck divides its time between Flying Fish Cove and the Kampong. The cafe on wheels is owned and operated by a local Malay family who serves street-style food such as egg roti, samosas as well as Malaysian coffee and cake. Drench your delicious savoury breakfast stir-fry of rice noodles with chives and shrimp with hot, spicy sambal to kickstart and captivate your palette.

Flying Fish food truck.
The popular Flying Fish food truck.

Order avo on toast at the Smash Espresso Bar, Poon Saan

Avocado on toast is now regarded as an Australian staple. And those partial to the mainland favourite, served with a dusting of salt, pepper, and sometimes feta, will enjoy the Smash Espresso Bar rendition, slathered onto a toasted slab of ciabatta. Bacon and egg wraps are another indulgent brekkie item on the menu and this cafe is known for its specialty coffee and juices, too.

Smash Espresso Bar renditions.
Enjoy the Smash Espresso Bar renditions.

Enjoy a Malaysian breakfast at Idah’s Kitchen, at the Malay Club

Enjoy a traditional Malay breakfast of buttery soft roti canai with chicken curry, or nasi lemak at this popular restaurant overlooking Flying Fish Cove, the island’s main settlement. Here, you will find locals getting their fill on traditional Malaysian food and sweets. Meals at Idah’s Kitchen tend to be traditional, which brings together the community. Idah’s Kitchen is also a kopitiam (coffee shop) so you can sip on a strong black coffee to round out your feast.

Linger over lunch or dinner at Lucky Ho

Christmas Island locals wax enthusiastic about Chinese restaurant Lucky Ho, located in Poon Saan. Prawns, chillies, chives, garlic, coriander and shrimp paste are all used to flavour dishes such as wok-fried noodles and Singapore sambal yellow noodles, which are a quick introduction to Christmas Island’s pan-Asian palate. The restaurant has a homey atmosphere and serves a great rendition of Thai fried rice and fried wontons for both lunch and dinner. You can even book a room to do Karaoke here!

Dine on authentic noodle dishes at Le Cla Café

The Chinese Literary Association building is where you go to order an iced tea that starts out hot and is cooled down with loads of ice, a Le Cla speciality. Sit outside on the breezy verandah at this Malaysian-Chinese restaurant, which is renowned for its authentic noodle dishes such as char kway teow, bee hoon and kway teow. The slippery rice noodles arrive with a little bit of chilli sambal on the side. Alcohol is available here.

Le Cla Cafe & Restaurant.
Foshan chicken from Le Cla Cafe & Restaurant.

Kick back at The Recreation Centre

The Kookai’z Café at the Recreation Centre up on the hill is a top spot for a burger that has been built from the ground up. The magic here lies in the old-school milk bun base, which is layered with quality ingredients, such as a home-made beef patty topped with rounds of pickled beetroot, sliced cucumber and tomato, squares of cheese and shredded lettuce glued together with a squiggle of mayonnaise.

Brew with a view at the Golden Bosun

The Golden Bosun is the name of a sub-species of bird that is unique to Christmas Island. It’s also the name of one of Christmas Island’s most popular watering holes, where a cold bevvie is best enjoyed on the verandah with ocean views. Eat your way methodically through the menu of pub classics with a CI twist such as sriracha chicken and pineapple pizza, locally caught fish (wahoo) and chicken parmigiana with salad. Beef and reef steaks are a local favourite.

Golden Bosun.
Brew with a view at the Golden Bosun.

Visit Rumah Tinggi on Saturday night

The Rumah Tinggi tavern is as far west as you can go without leaving Australian territory. Rumah Tinggi means ‘tall house’ in Malay and this spot in the Settlement is a hit with locals who converge here on a Saturday arvo for bar food such as bruschetta, chips and steak sangas. The waterfront bar is a top spot to watch the sun set over the sea.

The Rumah Tinggi tavern
The Rumah Tinggi tavern is as far west as you can go.

Tracks Tavern

You will find this true Aussie gem tucked up in the suburb of Drumsite. Ice cold beverages, plenty of yarns and the place to keep you up to date with all things in the world of sports. Head along for Chase the Ace on Saturday evenings, or just call in for a tasty salad roll or beef pie for lunch. But be quick, it’s a local favourite and the rolls sell out fast!

The Pool Hall

If you feel like kicking on, The Pool Hall is popular with the younger crowd for drinks and dancing.

Stock up at local supermarkets

While all of the restaurants on Christmas Island have the option to dine in or takeaway, you can also stock up on everyday staples at one of the three main supermarkets on Christmas Island, all of which stock specialty Asian groceries as well as basic everyday staples.

 

The island’s Hidden Garden Sustainable Farm supplies the supermarkets with fresh bananas, papaya and soursop and a range of seasonal ingredients. CI Bakery supplies fresh baked goods. Keep your eye out on the Community Board for the latest fresh fish of the day from Shorefire, the local fish supplier.

 Hidden Garden Sustainable Farm.
The island’s Hidden Garden Sustainable Farm.

Fast food

For takeaway pizza, fish n’ chips and more check with CITA for the latest up-to-date information when it comes to tracking down current take-away options and menus.

Cultural must-dos on Christmas Island

Visitors to Christmas Island will also be satisfied with the many temples and mosques that offer a glimpse of the Australian territory’s rich cultural heritage. Each is as interesting as the next, so get your passport ready to take a step back in time along a self-guided trail or plan your stay around one of the festivals held at these places of worship.

Time your visit to coincide with a festival

There are many colourful cultural celebrations held year-round on Christmas Island, which everyone is welcome to enjoy. From Chinese New Year and the Hungry Ghost Festival, which honours the memories of the deceased, to the Malay celebrations involving Kompang drumming, traditional dance and Malay food that highlights the culture on Christmas Island.

Learn about the history of the island’s colourful visitor’s centre

Cast your gaze down Gaze Road, which is a laid-back commercial, tourism and residential hub on the island. You won’t miss the pastel blue visitor centre, which has had many incarnations as a Chinese club, Eurasian staff club, and youth club. Talk to the friendly team about historic places, relics and ruins to visit on the island.

Christmas Island Visitors Centre.
Unlock your adventure at the Visitors Centre.

Scribble a note on the community blackboard

The roundabout on Christmas Island is said to be one of the most isolated in the world. All island traffic must, at some point, pass through the roundabout, which makes it the ideal spot for a community blackboard where locals and visitors blast out messages in chalk. Beloved by all Islanders to keep up to date with what’s on, who’s on island, and even significant birthdays.

View the mosque in the Kampong

The original houses in the Kampong were made of thatch and timber to accommodate Malays recruited from Indonesia and Malaysia to work in the port and marine services. There is the 1960s-built mosque and madrassa (Islamic school) located in the kampong, which has retained its village-like feel. The Kampong is the heart of the Malay community. Listen for the Call to Prayer, which can be heard reverberating across the Kampong and Flying Fish Cove.

Enjoy the views from the Tea Garden & Tai Jin House

The Tea Garden was once a focal point for the Chinese community. Look at the art in the Tea Garden, and enjoy a sunset picnic in the park, which is located on a former residential area known as ’40 houses’. Have a peep at the 1950s-style buildings at the shops in Temple Court. What was once the home of the British Administrator of Christmas Island, Tai Jin House, offers splendid views over Flying Fish Cove and is home to the Christmas Island Museum.

Tai Jin House
Tai Jin House offers splendid views over Flying Fish Cove.

Catch a film at the outdoor cinema

The Christmas Island Outdoor Cinema plays a pivotal role in island life. Built in the 1970s, the cinema was a key meeting point for the Union of Christmas Island Workers where key information was relayed. The outdoor cinema is a non-profit, community-based organisation that screens new release and cult classic movies under the stars every Saturday.

See local history at the Drumsite

Drumsite is named after the giant drum that held the cable for the gravity-based Incline of the site, which was established during the construction of the Incline and railway systems between 1910 and 1920. Take note of the private residence on Lam Lok Loh, built in 1930, which was officially known as Bungalow 702.  Most other buildings in this area date from the 1950s and 1960s.

Visit a temple or two

There are Taoist and Buddhist temples dotted around Christmas Island. There are also many small hidden shrines set up in the island’s industrial, retail and residential areas and a few smaller shrines scattered throughout the forest.

 

Your visit to the temples will help as donations are invested back into the upkeep of the temples. The Guan Yin Monastery in the Settlement, Tai Pak Kong, Di Zang Pu Sa Dian and Si Mian Fo temples all have spiritual significance for locals.

Chinese New Year on Christmas Island.
South Point Temple. (Photo: Karenn Singer / Christmas Island Tourism Association)
Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat
Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.