“The world’s greatest migration" is happening right now on Christmas Island. Discover how to witness it.
Christmas Island is a wonder at any time of year; it’s one of Australia’s most remote and beautiful territories, yet many Australians remain unaware of it. But once a year in the wet season of October/November – and in fact, right now – the pristine beaches, remote dirt roads, green jungle floors and even purpose-built wildlife bridges are covered in a sea of vibrant red crabs on their annual migration.
Adult crabs make their way to the ocean to mate. (Image: Christmas Island Tourism Association)
And when we say a sea, we mean it. Right now, estimates of up to one hundred million red crabs are making their way from their usual home (eating leaf litter from the rainforest floor) to descend upon the island’s beaches. Why? It’s breeding season.
Several weeks later, tiny offspring reverse the trip. (Image: Christmas Island Tourism Association)
Once described by Sir David Attenborough as “the world’s greatest migration", the Christmas Island crab migration phenomenon takes these crustaceans a week or so of travel time before they can mate. About two to four weeks later, their teeny tiny offspring (we’re talking about five millimetres wide) make the reverse trip to join the adult crabs back inland.
How to see it
Bikes are best during the red crab migration. (Image: Kirsty Faulkner)
Besides watching the iconic Attenborough documentary, travellers can reach Christmas Island by taking an almost four-hour flight from Perth. All major towns in Australia fly to Perth.
Upon arrival, you can hire a car from the Christmas Island Visitor Centre, with 4WD recommended. Although during the red crab migration, many roads remain closed and riding a bicycle or walking is the best way to get around.
Once there, it won’t be difficult to spot the heaving red carpet of crabs, but several tours offer a private charter that includes food and a front-row seat to the red crab migration with an expert tour guide providing more context and insight.
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What else to do on Christmas Island
Time your trip for the red crab migration, but stay for the rest of Christmas Island’s natural wonders. (Image: Justin Gilligan)
Almost two-thirds of the island is a national park, offering lush rainforest, quiet beaches and an eclectic mix of flora and fauna on land and in the surrounding ocean.
Some of the world’s rarest birds call Christmas Island home. Join a tour to see the nesting grounds of red-footed and brown boobies, and more. Grab a snorkel and dive into deep-blue ocean drop-offs, where peaceful whale shark giants are often found. Or, pick a secret swimming spot from several deserted grotto pools or spectacular rainforest waterfalls.
Thanks to a unique mix of cultures on the island, the cuisine here is an equally eclectic mix of Malay, Singaporean, Australian and Chinese.
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Kassia Byrnes is the Native Content Editor for Australian Traveller and International Traveller. She's come a long way since writing in her diary about family trips to Grandma's. After graduating a BA of Communication from University of Technology Sydney, she has been writing about her travels (and more) professionally for over 10 years for titles like AWOL, News.com.au, Pedestrian.TV, Body + Soul and Punkee. She's addicted to travel but has a terrible sense of direction, so you can usually find her getting lost somewhere new around the world. Luckily, she loves to explore and have new adventures – whether that’s exploring the backstreets, bungee jumping off a bridge or hiking for days. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @probably_kassia.
A 25-minute drive from Perth is all you need to be amongst generations of grape growers.
You might not know Swan Valley, but the vines here twist through almost 200 years of history. Today, plump grapes are still plucked, pressed by juice-stained hands and fermented into wine – a journey led by the same families who will pour it into your glass. And with that first taste, you’ve unknowingly become part of a generations-old tradition.
So, sit back and take a sip of a crisp white under that sun-speckled pergola and listen to the warbling of magpies – here’s what makes the Swan Valley so special.
Western Australia’s oldest wine region
Sip your way through Swan Valley’s rich wine heritage. (Image: Tourism WA)
In 1829, the very year Europeans settled in Perth, the first vines were planted in the Swan Valley. Later, Croatian and Italian migrants blended their southern European winemaking traditions into the local viticulture, a combination that works so well in the Mediterranean climate here.
The result today is crisp, tropical Verdelho, dark, fruity Shiraz and plenty of Chenin Blanc – a third of the country’s Chenin Blanc is crushed here.
So where to start uncorking? Mandoon Estate has an Aboriginal art gallery and a sculpture trail, where you can taste an Indigenous food platter of smoked crocodile and emu sausages.
For a taste of the valley’s Italian heritage, head to Pinelli Estate Winery. Or, for something indulgent – and a little unusual, considering the inland location – RiverBank Estate Winery serves lobster straight from tanks, paired with that Chenin Blanc.
If you prefer something stronger in your glass, Talijancich Wines knows a thing or two about fortified drops: try its aged tawny, Muscat and liqueur Verdelho.
Sensational dining
Pair great food with a scenic winery setting. (Image: Tourism Caversham)
The Swan Valley follows that great Australian wine-country tradition, with everything from unfussily fantastic pub meals and beer gardens to unexpected fine dining at cellar doors.
Start at Edgecombe Winery, which does brunch as well as drops. Their brioche French toast with raspberry and rhubarb coulis, poached pear and roasted pistachios will taste best when you’re perched at a table outside. Don’t forget to explore their orchard and wetland afterwards.
Pick up a box of freshly baked macarons from Maison Saint-Honoré (bien sûr) before heading to Valley Social for a North American barbecue-inspired feed. Chow down on beef brisket burnt ends and wash them down with a hemp-infused craft beer.
Baskerville Tavern is brewing beer again in the former Feral Brewpub. Order their Monday special – a classic chicken parmi – and try Slumdog Brewing’s regular range, including a tart blueberry sour made with fresh and freeze-dried berries. In winter, it’s time for their seasonal seven-malt stout, with notes of dark chocolate, coffee and caramel.
An unbeatable visitor’s centre
In Guildford is the Swan Valley Visitor Centre in a restored 1866 courthouse. Its award-winning staff know everything about anything happening in the Swan Valley. Pick their brains (and pick up a free map) before setting off. But, check out the centre’s Welcome to Country mural by local Whadjuk artist Chloe Caylon first.
Scenic drives
Use that handy Visitor Centre map to get a bit of everything on the Swan Valley’s 32-kilometre scenic loop, which connects over 150 attractions. Think roadside produce stalls, art galleries and historic buildings. Just remember to organise that designated driver if you’re extra keen on the vineyard stops.
Other drops
If the thought of wine makes your temples pulse, there are plenty of other tipples to tickle your fancy. Txoko Brewing in Baskerville takes its name from a Basque gathering place for cooking, drinking and socialising. Work through its rotating beers and plates of Spanish croquettes and sardines, then settle on the grass while the kids let off steam in the playground.
AmberChes Spirits Distillery uses locally sourced botanicals and fruit to make saltbush gin, lemon myrtle gin and Gincello, a twist on limoncello. Try its award-winning sloe gin, which was named Australia’s best at the 2025 Gin Guide Awards. Better yet, have a go at making your own in a hands-on gin-blending and distilling class among the vines.
Historic architecture and an arts scene
Explore the stories behind the Swan Valley. (Image: Tourism WA)
Next: Guildford. It is one of WA’s earliest colonial settlements – but the history here goes back much further. The Whadjuk Noongar people are the land’s Traditional Custodians, whose Dreaming tells of the Wagyl serpent creating the gum tree-lined Swan River. Today, Guildford’s original town layout remains largely unchanged. Follow one of four heritage walks past 19th-century buildings, galleries and James Street’s antique shops.
Take home pantry staples
Treat yourself to a chocolate-filled detour. (Image: Tourism WA)
Sometimes the little stops are just as good as the big hitters. Pull over at Margaret River Chocolate Company for free tastings of white, milk and dark chocolate. Then stop by Harvey Cheese Swan Valley for Lemon Myrtle Ash Brie or St Duke’s Red. End at The House of Honey, where you can sample local honey and get buzzy on honey ice cream pancakes.
Nature and wildlife
Add a little wildlife adventure. (Image: Tourism WA)
If the kids have had enough of winery lawns, save the bottles for later and head to Caversham Wildlife Park. Here, you can hand-feed kangaroos and meet koalas and wombats. Catch working sheepdogs and sheep-shearing demonstrations at the Farm Show. Elsewhere in Whiteman Park, hop aboard a vintage train or tram, or cool off in the splash pool.
Finish at Bells Rapids, where fuchsia grevillea, crimson bottlebrush and yellow wattles bloom each spring.
