A weekend exploring the hidden gems surrounding Hanging Rock

Laura WatersBy Laura Waters
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Victoria’s Macedon Ranges hide tiny gold-rush towns brimming with old-world charm, 40-odd wineries and one mystery-shrouded rock.

There’s something about Hanging Rock. The fractured and eroded remains of a volcano that erupted about 7 million years ago aren’t big, rising a modest 105 metres above surrounding plains. But there’s an energy here. A stillness. The Wurundjeri people have revered it for 40,000 years, but it was Peter Weir’s iconic 1975 movie Picnic at Hanging Rock that put this little corner of the Macedon Ranges, one hour north-west of Melbourne, in the spotlight.

the surrounding forest at Hanging Rock
Trails lead to a moss-smeared forest.

Whether the story of Miranda and her pals disappearing amid Hanging Rock’s maze of trachyte pillars and boulders during a school excursion in 1900 is fictional or not remains a mystery, but its impact has endured. Many who visit find it hard to resist channelling the characters as they explore. At the very least, they’ll picnic here (with a wink).

My explorations start on a well-defined path climbing through moss-smeared forest and bracken fern; past rock spires, passageways and features with evocative names such as Vampire Cliff and Lovers Leap. When the trail dissolves into jumbled rock, painted arrows guide the way, though it’s easy to be lured into unmarked narrows.

an aerial view of the Hanging Rock
Hanging Rock was made famous by the classic Australian novel and film, Picnic at Hanging Rock. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

Like a jewel, Hanging Rock sits on a chain of quaint towns that sprang up en route to the goldfields in the mid-1800s. Nowadays, Woodend, Macedon and Kyneton’s historic streetscapes are peppered with vintage stores, art galleries, bookshops and clothing boutiques. Its irresistible food scene encompasses everything from wine bars and providores to country pubs and hatted restaurants. Monsieur Pierre’s flaky pies and cassoulet are to die for; the gin at Big Tree Distillery wins awards.

people outside Fox in the Chamber eatery, Woodend
Fox in the Chamber is one of many cool eateries in surrounding towns such as Woodend. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

These towns are tempting, but the rock keeps me close. About a kilometre away, as the crow flies, is aptly named Hanging Rock Views . I’m not the only one who appreciates the outlook. On the lawn beyond my room’s sliding doors, a dozen-odd kangaroos turn their heads in half-interest when I venture onto the patio.

Hanging Rock Views from above
Aptly named Hanging Rock Views. (Image: Tiffany Warner)
kangaroos at Hanging Rock Views
Kangaroos frequent the property. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

My suite is one of four, featuring plush bedding, heated polished concrete floors and floor-to-ceiling windows that welcome in streams of sunlight. Even from bed, the landscape magnetises.

Though my kitchenette is bountiful with breakfast provisions, there are other ‘supplies’ that need gathering. Thankfully, I don’t need to wander far. This is Australia’s epicentre of cool-climate wines – renowned for award-winning pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling and a sprinkling of shiraz.

a close-up of the bed with a lamp at Hanging Rock Views
Simple yet cosy rooms at Hanging Rock Views. (Image: Tiffany Warner)

Closest is Hesket Estate , whose claim of producing premium small-batch wines is supported from the first sip of my pinot noir on a sun-drenched deck facing the vines. Hanging Rock Winery’s tastings come with views of the rock, and the expansive grounds play gallery to an Art in the Vines sculpture exhibition every spring to autumn.

the exterior of Hanging Rock Winery
Hanging Rock Winery sits in the shadow of the rock. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Art and wine pair well, and perhaps nowhere takes it more seriously than Mount Monument . Owned by Nonda Katsalidis (architect of Mona), the winery, cellar door and restaurant are works of art in themselves. There’s no missing the sculpture of a giant human head by Richard Stringer – it’s so big it almost brushes the restaurant ceiling inside – but outside, scattered across the grounds and wrapping the hillside, are about 30 more sculptures that Nonda adds to when inspiration strikes.

the Mount Monument winery, Hanging Rock
Inside Mount Monument winery. (Image: Griffin Simm)

Gardens have long been popular in the Macedon Ranges, though less for modern art and more for fountains and European-inspired landscapes. Since the late 1800s, Melbourne’s wealthy elite have retreated to its cool climes during summer, building grand homes and gardens, of which some are occasionally open to the public.

Open year-round is Forest Glade Gardens , a privately-owned botanic wonderland dating to 1941. Hours are needed to explore its six hectares of delightful trees and nooks. Maples turn crimson in autumn; rhododendrons and azaleas bloom in spring; winter brings the occasional dusting of snow. There are gazebos, fountains, topiary, bonsai and even a fern gully.

It’s Eden-like, but another Eden awaits. By the time I return to Hanging Rock Views at sunset, a pea soup-thick fog is rolling across the lawn and I can see the silhouettes of kangaroos in the mist. When I stir in the middle of the night they’re still there, grazing in the moonlight.

kangaroos grazing at Hanging Rock
Kangaroos graze at the base of Hanging Rock. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Hanging Rock and the Macedon Ranges are an hour’s drive north-west of Melbourne/Naarm.

Staying there

Tranquillity is assured at Hanging Rock Views with its country views sprinkled with roos. Walking tracks and cascades are also onsite.

Playing there

Hanging Rock Reserve’s three walking trails range from 30 to 60 minutes long.

Forest Glade Gardens

The six hectares of historic private grounds at Forest Glade Gardens are recognised as some of Victoria’s finest.

Hanging Rock Winery

Wine tastings at Hanging Rock Winery  come with views of Hanging Rock and Mt Macedon.

the barrels at Hanging Rock winery
Say yes to a tasting at Hanging Rock Winery. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Eating there

Mount Monument

Art and wine combine at Mount Monument winery, cellar door and restaurant.

Kuzu Izakaya

Woodend’s Kuzu Izakaya is a local favourite for authentic Japanese ‘pub food’.

Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya, Woodend
Enjoy Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya in Woodend.
Laura Waters
Laura is a Melbourne-based writer, speaker and author with a passion for adventures in the great outdoors. Her memoir ‘Bewildered’, about hiking the length of New Zealand, won Best Travel Book at the 2021 ASTW Awards and she has also penned the popular Ultimate Walks & Hikes Australia.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

    Megan ArkinstallBy Megan Arkinstall
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    The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

    It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

    Bells Beach
    Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

    Split Point Lighthouse
    The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

    Split point lookout
    The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

    This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

    Lorne to Birregurra 

    Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

    Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

    From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

    Erskine Falls
    Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

    Brae restaurant
    Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Apollo Bay to The Otways 

    Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

    A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

    Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

    Twelve Apostles
    One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

    The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

    It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

    The Grotto
    The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

    Port Campbell to Timboon 

    Timboon Fine Ice Cream
    Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

    Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

    Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

    Warrnambool building
    A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

    In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

    Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

    The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Staying there

    Oak & Anchor
    The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

    The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

    The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

    Eating there

    The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

    Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.