Victoria’s Macedon Ranges hide tiny gold-rush towns brimming with old-world charm, 40-odd wineries and one mystery-shrouded rock.
There’s something about Hanging Rock. The fractured and eroded remains of a volcano that erupted about 7 million years ago aren’t big, rising a modest 105 metres above surrounding plains. But there’s an energy here. A stillness. The Wurundjeri people have revered it for 40,000 years, but it was Peter Weir’s iconic 1975 movie Picnic at Hanging Rock that put this little corner of the Macedon Ranges, one hour north-west of Melbourne, in the spotlight.
Whether the story of Miranda and her pals disappearing amid Hanging Rock’s maze of trachyte pillars and boulders during a school excursion in 1900 is fictional or not remains a mystery, but its impact has endured. Many who visit find it hard to resist channelling the characters as they explore. At the very least, they’ll picnic here (with a wink).
My explorations start on a well-defined path climbing through moss-smeared forest and bracken fern; past rock spires, passageways and features with evocative names such as Vampire Cliff and Lovers Leap. When the trail dissolves into jumbled rock, painted arrows guide the way, though it’s easy to be lured into unmarked narrows.
Like a jewel, Hanging Rock sits on a chain of quaint towns that sprang up en route to the goldfields in the mid-1800s. Nowadays, Woodend, Macedon and Kyneton’s historic streetscapes are peppered with vintage stores, art galleries, bookshops and clothing boutiques. Its irresistible food scene encompasses everything from wine bars and providores to country pubs and hatted restaurants. Monsieur Pierre’s flaky pies and cassoulet are to die for; the gin at Big Tree Distillery wins awards.
These towns are tempting, but the rock keeps me close. About a kilometre away, as the crow flies, is aptly named Hanging Rock Views . I’m not the only one who appreciates the outlook. On the lawn beyond my room’s sliding doors, a dozen-odd kangaroos turn their heads in half-interest when I venture onto the patio.
My suite is one of four, featuring plush bedding, heated polished concrete floors and floor-to-ceiling windows that welcome in streams of sunlight. Even from bed, the landscape magnetises.
Though my kitchenette is bountiful with breakfast provisions, there are other ‘supplies’ that need gathering. Thankfully, I don’t need to wander far. This is Australia’s epicentre of cool-climate wines – renowned for award-winning pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling and a sprinkling of shiraz.
Closest is Hesket Estate , whose claim of producing premium small-batch wines is supported from the first sip of my pinot noir on a sun-drenched deck facing the vines. Hanging Rock Winery’s tastings come with views of the rock, and the expansive grounds play gallery to an Art in the Vines sculpture exhibition every spring to autumn.
Art and wine pair well, and perhaps nowhere takes it more seriously than Mount Monument . Owned by Nonda Katsalidis (architect of Mona), the winery, cellar door and restaurant are works of art in themselves. There’s no missing the sculpture of a giant human head by Richard Stringer – it’s so big it almost brushes the restaurant ceiling inside – but outside, scattered across the grounds and wrapping the hillside, are about 30 more sculptures that Nonda adds to when inspiration strikes.
Gardens have long been popular in the Macedon Ranges, though less for modern art and more for fountains and European-inspired landscapes. Since the late 1800s, Melbourne’s wealthy elite have retreated to its cool climes during summer, building grand homes and gardens, of which some are occasionally open to the public.
Open year-round is Forest Glade Gardens , a privately-owned botanic wonderland dating to 1941. Hours are needed to explore its six hectares of delightful trees and nooks. Maples turn crimson in autumn; rhododendrons and azaleas bloom in spring; winter brings the occasional dusting of snow. There are gazebos, fountains, topiary, bonsai and even a fern gully.
It’s Eden-like, but another Eden awaits. By the time I return to Hanging Rock Views at sunset, a pea soup-thick fog is rolling across the lawn and I can see the silhouettes of kangaroos in the mist. When I stir in the middle of the night they’re still there, grazing in the moonlight.
A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
Hanging Rock and the Macedon Ranges are an hour’s drive north-west of Melbourne/Naarm.
Staying there
Tranquillity is assured at Hanging Rock Views with its country views sprinkled with roos. Walking tracks and cascades are also onsite.
Playing there
Hanging Rock Reserve’s three walking trails range from 30 to 60 minutes long.
Forest Glade Gardens
The six hectares of historic private grounds at Forest Glade Gardens are recognised as some of Victoria’s finest.
Hanging Rock Winery
Wine tastings at Hanging Rock Winery come with views of Hanging Rock and Mt Macedon.
Eating there
Mount Monument
Art and wine combine at Mount Monument winery, cellar door and restaurant.
Kuzu Izakaya
Woodend’s Kuzu Izakaya is a local favourite for authentic Japanese ‘pub food’.
