Why Geelong Restaurants are attracting foodies around Australia

Savour a local wine

Known for impressive vineyards with even more impressive bay views, the wineries of this region produce world-respected pinot, shiraz and chardonnay. To say each winery has its own personality is an understatement. There’s the grand and stately Scotchmans Hill , the architecturally led Jack Rabbit Vineyard and the laidback but confident Lethbridge at Hat Rock . Nearby there’s also a little nostalgia on offer at Terindah Estate , where you can dine in Peter’s Odyssey Tram Bar, a fully refurbished W-class tram. Yes Bar is also the perfect place for a tipple.

For wine tasting with a difference, head to the family-owned Bellarine Estate and dive into the ‘trinity of Texas BBQ’ – namely Angus brisket, free-range pork ribs and house-made sausage, alongside house-made rubs. Or enjoy the fruits of owner Sam Murray’s labour at Oneday Estate , a winery he literally built by hand from salvaged material. It’s a functional work of art, as is Oneday wine, crafted by highly awarded winemaker Nyall Condon.

waiter carrying food at the Scotchmans Hill

Relish a scrumptious meal and wine at Scotchmans Hill. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Relax with a cider, gin or beer

This part of Victoria isn’t just known for its award-winning viniculture; it’s also home to a tribe of brewhouses and distilleries that are rapidly carving a name for themselves. Fun-loving Bellarine Distillery serves its multi-layered gin (named after much-loved pet dogs) and rich single malt whisky, both served up in a renovated farm shed called The Whiskery. A short drive away, FarmDog Brewing continues the canine theme with its small-batch FarmDog gins and craft beer, best enjoyed with local salmon pate in the cosy brewery. Or grab a table at the busy Queenscliff Brewhouse and try one of the local craft beers on tap, including their own Prickly Moses beer, before moving on to one of their six house-made gins.

Cider aficionados will love Flying Brick Cider Co , which crafts its tasty drinks from fresh, crispy Victorian apples and Packham pears with no added sugars, colours or concentrates.

bartender making a cocktail with handcrafted gin at Bellarine Distillery

Try a handcrafted cocktail at Bellarine Distillery.

Enjoy farm-to-table dining

With so many makers and growers throughout Geelong and the Bellarine, it’s difficult to taste all the best seasonal produce – unless you book a seat on The Q Train . This premier rail journey departs from the small township of Drysdale and heads to Queenscliff, and during the scenic three-hour return trip you’ll enjoy a five-course meal featuring local produce from Geelong, the Bellarine and the Otways.

guests enjoying a meal aboard the qtrain

Book a seat on The Q Train. (Image: Tourism Australia/ QTrain)

The famous Portarlington mussels might be served to your table steaming hot as you glide along; if not, head to the very tip of the peninsula and eat them freshly cooked with luxurious Portarlington Mussel Tours . The award-winning experience includes visiting a working mussel farm, cooking demonstrations and tastings. The company has also recently added Angasi oysters and scallops to its offering, with their much-anticipated Deluxe Seafood Tour launching soon.

For budding chefs who have been watching The Bear, Harvest Experience in Geelong takes you inside a professional kitchen where you’ll learn to cook fresh produce from its kitchen garden. If that sounds a little too labour intensive, you can simply sit back and relax at Piknik in Swan Bay; this welcoming cafe in a converted service station serves up the best local produce, with house-made ice cream, baked goods and preserves.

Cooked Mussels by the sea by Portarlington Mussel Tours

Try different dishes made with fresh mussels. (Image: Portarlington Mussel Tours)

Shop for handcrafted pantry fillers

After eating your way through this region, you’ll be looking to take some of the produce home to your own kitchen. Grab your sustainable shopping bag and look out for notable artisan products.

For extra virgin olive and citrus oils, visit Oakdene Vineyards Cellar Door to taste Lighthouse Olive Oil , or stock up on olives and cold-pressed olive oil at Manzanillo Olive Grove , a biodynamic farm that’s home to over 4500 trees and seven varieties of the fruit.

No visit to Geelong and the Bellarine is complete without a crusty sourdough loaf, pastries and crumbly croissants (that take five days to make) from the ever-popular Ket Baker . Pair the sourdough with handcrafted cultured butter from Lard Ass butter – the only butter factory on the Bellarine – and smoked salmon pate, smoked New Zealand Ōra King salmon or smoked salt from Bellarine Smokehouse .

Take home some handcrafted butter. (Image: LardAss Butter)

Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place.

Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat.

After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.

The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

Setting sail from Mildura

Murray River birds — Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.

My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.

Stop one: Echuca

19th-century paddlesteamers — A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star , is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.

The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.

Stop two: Barmah National Park

Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.

The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.

Stop three: Cobram

Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange.

The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.

Stop four: Albury-Wodonga

First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk — First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town.

Playing there

BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura — Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists.

Eating there

Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.

Why Geelong and the Bellarine is the ultimate foodie destination

From handcrafted cultured butter to freshly cooked mussels, this part of Victoria is fast becoming known as a farm-to-table paradise.