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The iconic Victorian beach where true Aussie surf culture was born

Torquay’s Bells Beach is considered one of the best surf beaches in the world.

It’d be easy to think Australian surf culture was born around the right-hand point breaks of the Gold Coast and Byron Bay. These regions seem the epitome of how the world views Aussie surfers – bronzed (or burnt), languishing in warm water and sunshine. The reality is a lot different.

The rise of surf culture along Victoria’s coastline

surfers at Bells Beach in Australia
Surfers stand on the shore at Bells Beach, where the country’s biggest surfing competition is held each year. (Image: Getty/Filed Image)

True Aussie surf culture was born on the chilly waves of Victoria’s winters, when huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean hit cliff-lined beaches along the Great Ocean Road. These beaches were the ultimate proving ground – surfers from all over Australia arrived in panel vans and VWs to do battle with the biggest waves they could find.

huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean at Bells Beach
Surfers take advantage of the huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean at Bells Beach. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

There are surf breaks all along this very picturesque coast – but those around Torquay were most revered. The ultimate test of a surfer’s ability – and durability – however, was Bells Beach: Australia’s answer to Hawai‘i’s Pipeline. Just beyond, the breaks at Jan Juc and Winkipop beckoned.

an aerial view of surfers at Bells Beach
Hit the waves along the picturesque coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay became surfing’s Silicon Valley: HQ for the entire Australian surf culture revolution. Four young locals worked out of their backyards in Torquay to create two of the world’s biggest surf labels – Rip Curl and Quiksilver, which soon became the region’s biggest employers.

surfers out at Bells Beach
Surfers out at Bells Beach, Victoria’s most famous beach. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

Rip Curl started sponsoring the Bells Beach Pro in 1973 – and have done ever since. It’s been going since 1962 – making it the world’s longest continually run surfing contest. Held every Easter, it’s part of the world surfing tour. Spectators line its 30-metre-high cliffs to watch the world’s best take on enormous waves – it’s the ultimate coliseum for the sport and has inspired generations of Aussie surfers to join the list of heroes whose names are on its iconic bell.

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Follow the waves through Victoria’s surfing heartland

Australian National Surfing Museum, Torquay
The Australian National Surfing Museum in Torquay. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Just behind Torquay’s main drag, you can see all that history on display at the world’s best surf museum – the Australian National Surfing Museum. Here you can take your time absorbing the 100-year-or-so history of Australian surfing and check out the 150-strong surfboard collection.

surfboards on display at Australian National Surfing Museum
The museum holds surfing memorabilia, including a room dedicated to the history of boards. (Image: Tourism Australia)

But classic Aussie surf culture can be observed in everyday life all over the Great Ocean Road and Torquay. Surfing dictates life here; no work is done until the big swells have come and gone. Just being here provides a window into 60-odd years of rebellion against convention; for no-one likes nine-to-five living on the Great Ocean Road.

surfing memorabilia at Australian National Surfing Museum
The varied displays celebrate the Bells Beach competition, surfing legends and Aussie surf culture. (Image: Tourism Australia)

There’s less panel vans and VW Beetles these days, but surf culture still rules life. Surfers run this coast; you’re better off keeping out of their way when they’re running down past you to face the biggest swells – then hear them swap stories at cafes, restaurants and bars all around you.

surfing at Bells Beach
The beach near Torquay is Australia’s answer to Hawai‘i’s Pipeline. (Image: Visit Victoria/William Watt)

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Craig Tansley
Craig Tansley has been a travel writer for over 20 years, winning numerous awards along the way. A long-time sucker for adventure, he loves to write about the experiences to be had on islands, on the sea, in forests or deserts; or anywhere in nature across Australia, and the world.
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This is Mornington Peninsula’s most indulgent itinerary

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    The Mornington Peninsula blends vineyards, galleries, golf and delicious finds for an unforgettable getaway that indulges all penchants. 

    Just over an hour from Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula blends coast and country in a way that feels effortlessly indulgent. It’s a region where vineyard views meet acclaimed dining, art and culture is never far from the sea, and where hot springs bubble alongside rolling fairways. Whether your escape is a long lunch, an immersive art trail or a round of golf, the Mornington Peninsula has an itinerary to match. And there’s always a glass of good local pinot waiting for you at the end of the day.  

    A creative trail through the Peninsula 

    The Mornington Peninsula is a haven for artists and creatives. Its coastal views and rolling landscapes have long been a source of inspiration. Stay at the historical InterContinental Sorrento, a grand hotel established in 1875, recently renovated to blend heritage charm with contemporary elegance. With curated art lining the hotel’s corridors and rooms, you could spend hours simply wandering the halls, studying the walls. 

    Pt Leo Estate outdoor gallery
    Wander around Pt. Leo Estate’s outdoor gallery. (Image: Visit Victoria/Jesse Hisco)

    If looking for an outdoor gallery with sea views, head to Pt. Leo Estate, a landscaped vineyard home to a sculpture park featuring more than 70 large-scale works by both local and international artists, all easily accessible by connecting paths. After strolling through the vineyards, there are three dining options: fine dining at Laura, a relaxed meal at Pt. Leo Restaurant or a vino at the Wine Terrace. For something more hands-on, sign up for the Sip & Sketch experience. And if you book directly into the elegant Lancemore at Lindenderry Red Hill, you’ll enjoy free access to the sculpture park.  

    food at Pt Estate
    Pt Leo Estate boasts three elegant dining venues. (Image: Visit Victoria/Two Palms/Arianna Harry)

    For those who like their art framed by rolling hills, vines and wetlands, Montalto is the place. More than 30 sculptures are dotted throughout the property. The vineyard offers a formal restaurant and casual tables among the seasonal produce in a setting that feels like Mr. McGregor’s Garden from Peter Rabbit. And there’s always the option to picnic on the lawn.  

    Montalto Vineyard
    Montalto Vineyard is an idyllic setting for afternoon wining and dining. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robyn Lea)

    The Sorrento-Portsea Artists Trail offers a self-guided walk along bush paths and sea cliffs to see the same landscapes that once inspired brushstrokes of some of Australia’s most famous artists. Along the way, interpretive signs share insights into the area’s artistic past. And, if the peninsula’s weather turns a little wild, the region is brimming with galleries, particularly around Flinders, Sorrento and Red Hill. Artisan studios are open by appointment.  

    A feast for food and wine lovers 

    With more than 200 vineyards, around 60 wineries and cellar doors, plus an abundance of breweries, distilleries, orchards and family-run farms spanning generations, the Mornington Peninsula is a playground for food and wine enthusiasts.  

    Cassis Red Hill
    Luxurious stay, Cassis Red Hill.

    The perfect base for a culinary inclined trip is Cassis Red Hill, where luxury accommodation is tucked between grape vines and olive trees. A quiet nod to the fishing village of Cassis in the south of France, this retreat is all about contemporary elegance – crisp linen, sunlit interiors and a private mineral plunge pool. 

    Then, for a stand-out lunch, Green Olive at Red Hill offers a delicious way to enjoy the region. Graze on generous tasting plates with house-made relishes, lamb sausages, local cheese and just-picked garden produce. Pair it with a wine flight or order a picnic hamper to enjoy among the olive grove; there’s a picnic option for your dog, too. And for a playful twist, Green Olive is home to what is believed to be Australia’s only pickleball court set within a vineyard or orchard.  

    Amid the many wineries with open cellar doors, Main Ridge Dairy offers a delicious detour – a goat dairy where you can sample handcrafted cheeses and even meet the resident goats. For a more refined experience, Paringa Estate is one of the peninsula’s most awarded wineries, offering fine dining with sweeping vineyard views and a menu crafted from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.   

    If you’re looking to step outdoors before a lingering lunch, during winter Flinders Truffles offer the chance to join their clever dogs and search for the black gold under oak trees. For an authentic taste of the region, time your visit with one of the Peninsula’s vibrant farmers’ markets.

    From golf days to spa stays 

    Kingswood CountryGolf Club
    Peninsula Kingswood Country Golf Club. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With its champion courses, the Peninsula is a dream destination not only for those who love to tee off but for those who enjoy the post-golf wind down. Peninsula Kingswood Country Golf Club draws keen golfers from around the world, while Peppers Moonah Links Resort is a course that has hosted both a PGA tournament and two Australian Opens. For a true test of skill, The Dunes Golf Links is one of Australia’s top public courses. Each golf course offers accommodation, and staying onsite means maximum convenience, especially at The Dunes, where premium rooms have you sleeping right next to the fairway. Off-course indulgence is close at hand, too.  

    Alba Thermal Springs& Spa
    Soaking at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Peninsula Hot Springs and Alba Thermal Springs are just next door, where thermal waters drawn from geothermal mineral springs deep underground provide the ultimate recovery after a day of perfecting your swing. These award-winning wellness sanctuaries offer everything from bathing pools to private plunges and spa treatments. 

    Jetty Road Brewery
    Jetty Road Brewery.

    After sinking the last ball, and the 19th hole beckons, the Peninsula serves up just as many dining options as it does golf courses. Just minutes away and right on the beach, Jetty Road Brewery is a laid-back spot perfect for a round of beers and typical pub fare. For something a little elevated, book a table at Epicurean. Here, a glass of local red pairs beautifully with handmade pastas and woodfired pizza, all served in a historical coolstore and packing shed dating back more than a century.   

    A couple sit on the salt plains of Lake Tyrrell

    Part of The best of regional Victoria