Review: Peninsula Hot Springs glamping accommodation

A weekend of glamping at Peninsula Hot Springs turned out to be the perfect way to bond with loved ones.

We sit out the front of our Peninsula Hot Springs glamping tent, each with a glass of wine in hand and a cheese platter before us. Only the frogs chatter as much as we do as the sun goes down. Soon, we’ll head back into the famous geothermal pools of Peninsula Hot Springs, but for now, we’re just enjoying each other’s company. It’s so rare to maintain close friendships from high school well into your 30s. It’s even rarer to find opportunities to make new memories together, rather than rehashing old ones over dinners that inevitably are missing one or more of you. And it turns out a long weekend at the Peninsula Hot Springs forms the perfect background to this special celebration.

Over three days, we wander all over the hills of Peninsula Hot Springs – continuing on like Goldilocks until we find the geothermal pool temperature that is just right. When we want quiet relaxation, we head into the Spa Dreaming Centre for a more private bathing experience. When we want to be loud and laughing, we head back out into the main (and largest) area. When we’re hungry, we head back to the glamping tents to snack on cheese and wine purchased from the surrounding Mornington Peninsula area (Main Ridge Dairy and Foxeys Hangout are along the drive from Melbourne airport, and worth the stop), or order room service from the onsite restaurants and cafes. When we really feel indulgent, we split up for a massage at the spa.

It’s honestly the ultimate getaway for bonding and rejuvenating. But let me break it down.

Peninsula Hot Springs glamping

We split four friends into two glamping tents (there are 10 in total on site). We’re in the garden view tents, though lake view and a secluded pavilion options are available for those wanting to feel a little more private. We’re requested twin beds in each, but they are still surprisingly spacious.

We have a walk-in wardrobe and separate bathrooms, one housing a shower and the other a toilet (why have I never seen this in a hotel before? I hope more catch on). The main area comfortably fit a large cane armchair, the beds, a mini bar and other amenities like a kettle and tea. There was even space for a large rug and two round cushions to meditate on, if the mood took us. Everything feels very earthy, like we’re part of the elements around us. And while you may think canvas walls aren’t great for containing sound, the soothing yet voluminous chorus of frogs in the lake outside provided a private ambience.

From the glamping tents to the furthest part of the hot springs, it’s still only a 10-minute walk. Although reception staff are on call in case you’d prefer to be ferried from stop to stop on a buggy.

It’s absolutely perfect, but those wanting to up the luxury also have the option of Eco Lodges.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

The Spa Dreaming Centre

Peninsula Hot Springs Spa Dreaming Centre Pools — Day guests can also purchase a separate pass to enter the magical Spa Dreaming Centre.

The Spa Dreaming Centre is aptly named, and hands down my favourite place in the hot springs. Included in the price of a stay and only offered to guests 16 and over, this calming retreat offers a place to escape the daytime crowds (particularly if your stay falls over a weekend) without giving up your bathing journey.

Here you’ll find the spa, geothermal bathing, an infrared sauna (the only type of sauna I’ll enter thanks to my asthma), a Moroccan hammam and even zen chi massage machines. It. Is. Heaven. Guests can take advantage of private bathing options (for an extra cost) and a Moonlit Bathing experience. Head into the reception area to purchase a wide range of natural beauty and bathing products, from sun creams to bath salts to serums.

As my friends and I were all celebrating a semi-milestone birthday, it was the perfect excuse to indulge in one of the spa treatments. I booked in for a relaxation massage, and boy, did it work. Entering the waiting room before my massage, I poured myself a herbal tea and chose to sit in a swinging egg chair (though there are regular couches for those without a sense of fun). When my masseuse came to get me, the first thing I noticed about the room was that the massage table was actually long enough to fit my six-foot length, and then some. It also featured armrests under the headrest, so you didn’t have to have them by your side. It was supremely comfortable.

With magic hands, my masseuse managed to remove any knots and tension the hot springs hadn’t already calmed, and I left after 75 minutes feeling like a whole new person. One who had never experienced stress.

Peninsula Hot Springs dining

Spa Dreaming Centre Restaurant at peninsula hot springs — Dining in a bathrobe is almost the best part.

The Spa Dreaming Centre is also home to a dining room, where a healthy buffet breakfast is provided each morning. Think freshly made smoothies and juices, a variety of breads, bagels and pastries, a mixture of fruits, yoghurts and muesli and a selection of hot food. Even the scrambled eggs taste good here, a huge coup for hotel buffet breakfasts everywhere.

The dining room stays open all day, offering lunch and dinner menus that also focus on seasonal produce harvested from Peninsula Hot Springs’ own food bowl, designed to boost immunity and overall well-being. As much as there is a focus on health, no need to panic; it’s still a licensed venue. And my favourite part? No matter what time of day you sit down, it’s completely normal and expected to be wearing your white bathing robe.

Elsewhere on the property, try the Bath House cafe and bar or Amphitheatre Cafe, both of which offer more relaxed, open-air dining experiences. As a glamping guest, I can 100 per cent recommend ordering the tasty wood-fired pizzas to your room for dinner.

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Peninsula Hot Springs workshops

Peninsula Hot Springs Body Clay workshop — Play around with body clays, and your skin will be outrageously soft when you’re done.

I think the most surprising aspect of our stay here was the workshops provided . Some are free, some incur a $20 fee, but every single one we tried was delightful and worth the money.

We painted ourselves with four different body clays of different colours, following our leader’s directions to apply the different colours on different parts of our body, depending on whether it needed moisture, cleansing or detoxing. It might sound intimidating, or even romantic, but in reality, it’s a fun excuse to get a bit goofy. And oh my goodness, my skin has never felt softer than after we washed the clays off.

On another day, we tried the Cacao Circle. A dry activity, we entered a tented dome and sat at a low wooden table, laid with cups. Similar to a tea ceremony, our guide talked us through mindfulness questions while we sipped raw cacao with honey. Meditation isn’t for me, but this was a perfect way to relax the brain and body. It is only offered during the winter season, though.

Finally, we woke up for the daily 9 am hot spring yoga classes. There’s regular yoga too, but truly, the aim of a stay here is to spend as much time as possible in a hot spring. The classes are held in the amphitheatre, with a teacher on stage while participants fill the many pools surrounding it.

Out-of-hours geothermal pool access

Peninsula Hot Springs hilltop pool at sunrise — Catch sunrise in the Hilltop Pool.

If you think your bathing journey is done after the sun goes down, think again. An adults-only moonlit bathing experience means guests can soak under the starry sky every Friday and Saturday from 10 pm until 2 am in the Spa Dreaming Centre.

Though perhaps my favourite thing was being able to get into all the pools from the moment they open at 5 am. We followed the staff suggestion to head up to the iconic Hilltop Pool with sweeping views over the entire hot springs and beyond. While the line can get long at sunset, and time in the pool is limited to accommodate the large numbers, for sunrise, there is plenty of room. A hidden gem all glampers should try to wake up for.

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park — The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd — Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain — Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park — Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola — Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate — Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western — Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree — Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain — Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park — The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.

This Mornington Peninsula glamping stay is an all-round wellness experience

A weekend of glamping at Peninsula Hot Springs turned out to be the perfect way to bond with loved ones.

Peninsula Hot Springs glamping

The Spa Dreaming Centre

Peninsula Hot Springs dining

Peninsula Hot Springs workshops

Out-of-hours geothermal pool access

Victoria’s newest mineral springs bathhouse now has luxury villas to match

This seaside motel’s retro makeover is making waves

Relax at these Mornington Peninsula hot springs and day spas

7 unforgettable glamping stays on the Mornington Peninsula

This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Playing there

Eating there

A weekend of glamping at Peninsula Hot Springs turned out to be the perfect way to bond with loved ones.

Peninsula Hot Springs glamping

AI Prompt

The Spa Dreaming Centre

Peninsula Hot Springs dining

Peninsula Hot Springs workshops

Out-of-hours geothermal pool access

Victoria’s newest mineral springs bathhouse now has luxury villas to match

This seaside motel’s retro makeover is making waves

Relax at these Mornington Peninsula hot springs and day spas

7 unforgettable glamping stays on the Mornington Peninsula

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Playing there

Eating there