Best Short Break Stays in Victoria | Australian Traveller

From urban digs to heritage hotels and sweet retreats in covetable locales, hole yourself up in some of Victoria’s best.

Drift House, Port Fairy

The six suites at Drift House, which hides behind a charming cottage facade, make the most of the historic home’s period features in a warts-and-all way, with exposed stone and brickwork, striped walls and artfully rusty wrought-iron elements complementing lots of tactile natural materials, many reclaimed, and a largely neutral palette with interesting pops of pattern and colour.

A sunny spot inside Drift House, Port Fairy.

Lon Retreat, Point Lonsdale

Blissfully positioned on a sun-bleached headland at Point Lonsdale on the Bellarine Peninsula, with shut-your-mouth views out to the roiling sea, the nearby lighthouse and across the neighbouring countryside, Lon Retreat’s collection of seven self-contained suites is designed for ultimate relaxation. The interiors are cosy chic, with giant picture windows letting in lots of light and framing the vistas, while the on-site spa amps up the indulgence even further.

Aerial view of Lon Retreat in the Bellarine Peninsula.

Jackalope, Merricks North

Located on the less-sceney side of the Mornington Peninsula, Jackalope changed the narrative of what an out-of-town hotel could be. What that is, is seriously design-focused, with a dark, sharp vibe inside that contrasts perfectly with its bucolic outlook to rolling hills and verdant grape vines. The in-house restaurant Doot Doot Doot is a must, while the casual indoor/outdoor dining at the adjoining Rare Hare has Melburnians flocking for long lunches.

The Provincial Hotel, Ballarat

The Provincial’s 23 rooms are housed behind an Art Nouveau facade (the 1909 building is National Trust-listed) in the heart of the former gold mining town. Inside, its heritage flourishes have been melded with a delightful modern makeover in restive shades of ivory and blue, with bold fabric patterns and colourful artworks by local artists adding interest.

Inside the rooms at The Provincial Hotel.

Melbourne’s best stays

Whether you call it a weekend away or a city break, the one thing we can all agree on is that Melbourne is one of the best cities in the world to while away a few days in, eating at its countless fine diners, shopping its buzzing neighbourhoods and lounging in its stylish hotels.

The ranks of said hotels have swollen rather than shrunk during the pandemic, with a swag of new properties coming online of late.

The headline opening in the last six months has been the funky W Melbourne but you might also want to check into the colourful boutique offering Quincy Hotel Melbourne or the luxe Lancemore Crossley St.

The colourful boutique offering at Quincy Hotel Melbourne.

As for old favourites worth revisiting after so long, our recommendations would include Adelphi Hotel, the city’s – and the country’s – first ‘design’ hotel, the elegant Langham, Zagame’s House in Carlton or The Windsor, the undisputed grand dame of Australian hotels.

Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington , like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.

We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”

A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat

inspecting bivalve bounty from the ropes — Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours . While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.

holding Portarlington mussels — See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.

As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.

The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels

blue mussels off Portarlington — Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.

Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.

Portarlington mussels with lemon and chilli — Mussels served with lemon and chilli.

“Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”

a hand holding a Portarlington mussel — Mussels are a sustainable food.

Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.

But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.

guests sampling Portarlington mussels onboard — Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.

The best short break stays in Victoria

From urban digs to heritage hotels and sweet retreats in covetable locales, hole yourself up in some of Victoria’s best.

Drift House, Port Fairy

Lon Retreat, Point Lonsdale

Jackalope, Merricks North

The Provincial Hotel, Ballarat

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This luxe trawler tour is redefining Victoria’s seafood experience

Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat

The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels