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This stunning WA hike offers an antidote to loneliness

Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld

Meeting new people can be difficult. But a slow-burn hike through WA’s coastal wilderness may be the antidote to loneliness.

“OK, phone’s going off. Gosh, that feels good." This is my introduction to Andy Burgess, one of eight hikers – mostly strangers to one another – who have come together for an ‘open group experience’ through Western Australia’s coastal wilderness. We’ve been striding over granite rock and robust tree roots for maybe a quarter of an hour when Andy sets the tone for our multi-day wander: digital disconnection. I like him immediately.

It feels unusual to set off on the wending Bibbulmun Track not with a bunch of friends or family members, but with a group of unknowns: three blokes and five women. We have 60 kilometres to get to know one another without the usual inconveniences of foot travel: our tents will be pitched for us, inflatable mattresses pumped, beds made with real pillows and fresh towels supplied. Luggage is couriered. Even our meals will be prepared for us to cook, and packed lunches delivered. It’s how things are done by WA hiking outfit Cape2Camp , which is branching out beyond Margaret River for the first time.

the river meets the sea, Bibbulmun Track
Enjoy stunning coastal views and natural landscapes. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a couple by the beach, Bibbulmun Track
The 60-kilometre-long hiking and tenting experience is broken up by beach swims. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
spherical yellow flower heads
Spot wildflowers along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a camp setup on the Bibbulmun Track
The camp set-up follows Leave No Trace principles. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a charcuterie board provided by Cape2Camp
Cape2Camp caters all meals. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the campfire setup on Bibbulmun Track
The ‘walk-in, walk-out’ experience includes showers and campfires. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Today, we are setting off from the other Denmark (yes, there are two), a forest-speared town some four and a half hours’ drive south of Perth/Boorloo. We’d met by candlelight the night before, tucking into kangaroo bolognaise while getting a briefing from Anne Nordgard, the Norwegian expat behind Cape2Camp, who zips ahead to sprinkle fairy dust for our light-travel arrival.

kangaroos along the Bibbulmun Track
See kangaroos along the Bibbulmun Track. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

For me – a busy woman juggling work, kids and a social life – the idea of escaping to a far-flung wilderness with not a single obligation to meet is heaven. I wake to roos grazing under native peppermint trees and a kookaburra perched on the campground’s fire hydrant hose, surveying jaunts to the communal bathroom.

Day one

WA's Bibbulmun Track from above
Hit the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Day one is an ambitious (in my mind) 24-kilometre hike. A strident pace sees the group fragment, but as periphery-bending views of farmland cause each one of us to pause and marvel at black cattle dots on green, we regroup. Conversations spark as feet thread through tall dense reeds and scrub that’s cut closely to the trail edge, with springy heath cushioning Earth’s floor. Talking topics roam from learning to play bass and choosing high schools to family business succession plans and grandparenting styles. Step by step, we connect.

rugged coastal cliffs from above on Bibbulmun Track
Snake your way along rugged coastal cliffs. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Before sundown we’ve discovered there’s only one couple in the group; the rest of us have unhooked from partners and kids as we seek renewal in nature. There are many flavours in the crew: a doctor, a geologist, a banker and a government worker. Yet every one of us seems to click.

Day two

the Great Southern coast from above
Hikers are dwarfed by the scale of the Great Southern coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

A swim at Parry Beach marks day two – more fun than the solar-powered (and therefore cold) camp showers. Our group drops down to six as a knee injury sees the couple head home. There’s consensus that a leisurely start to our 12-kilometre outlook is the way to go. I think I’ve found my people. We lope on a trail now marked by white sand and succulent strands, evolving into the kind of rambling native garden you’d pay a fortune to create. Distant rain magnetises to the ocean, sheets landing in a line of silver. My eyes flick to the immense splash of a whale breaching. A rainbow appears – the first of countless in this region, which was once called the Rainbow Coast. Could this little-known track be one of the most beautiful hikes in Australia?

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hikers walking along the beach, Bibbulmun Track
There are opportunities to spot whales and dolphins along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the small Cape2Camp group on the Bibbulmun Track
The small Cape2Camp group find their rhythm while moving through the landscape. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
hikers in formation along the shore
Hikers in formation along the shoreline. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
native grass trees along Bibbulmun Track
Flowering native grass trees line the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
wildflowers along the coast
Wildflowers carpet the coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a distinctive shrub in a remote forest in WA
A distinctive shrub native to the southwest of Western Australia. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the coast from above, Bibbulmun Track
Hike through WA’s coastal wilderness. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

 

Blisters have got me already. Fellow hikers offer bandaids and wait as I unlace my boots and peel off double sock layers. They’re a supportive bunch; the easy patience and generosity endear us to one another further.

By the time we reach a cove that curls like Wineglass Bay, edged by granite mounds and sparkling pale blue, the group is nearly ready for Andy’s Superman boxers. We’ve opted for an underwear swim, but the fashion choice is a surprise. “It’s a joke gift from my kids at Christmas," he pleads. I dive underwater with eyes open, facing a haze of Tiffany blue. “The water’s so clear I can see the wrinkles in my toes," says Andy, in a last-ditch effort to divert attention.

We arrive to a new bush camp fully set up, a delight celebrated with a local Raintree pinot noir and a sophisticated cheese board. As the Milky Way outdoes a string of fairy lights, we share highlights so far. “It’s the long conversations that are just for joy," says retired GP Marcus Middleton. “Particularly as a bloke, that’s a really rich experience." Financier Nhi To loves the organic connections with people she’d never otherwise meet. “You make all your adult friends through school and the kids," she says. “It’s hard to make friends as adults. When you go on a journey together, it bonds you." In this time of loneliness epidemics, what better salve could there be?

Day three

hikers taking the Bibbulmun Track
The three-day camping trip ensures immersion in nature. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

A misting rain coats day three – and I’m hobbling – but we kayak successfully across a river, laughing as more toes are strapped. The white flag goes up after 20 kilometres. We’re collected and driven back to base, three kilometres short of the finish line. As a smuggled-in whisky flagon is gleefully shared, we agree to meet up in a month, our fast-track friendships pledged to last well beyond the enchanting path we’ve travelled.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

From Perth/Boorloo, Denmark is about 4.5 hours’ drive south. Alternatively, fly into Albany-Drome Airport and make the 45-minute drive west to Denmark.

Playing there

The Great Southern walk with Cape2Camp is a four-night experience featuring three days of hiking along Western Australia’s Bibbulmun Track, from Ocean Beach to Peaceful Bay. The tour includes all meals, drinks, tented accommodation and hand-luggage transfers between campsites. Prices start from $1290 per person (twin share). Private group bookings are available for a minimum of four guests.

Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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Theatre, art and music: Our top picks from this year’s Perth Festival lineup

Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy

    Lynn GailBy Lynn Gail
    Blend the addictive energy of dance, creative cinematic movies, captivating theatre, and energising music during Perth Festival.

    Perth Festival has extraordinary roots. Born as a summer community experiment back in 1953, the brainchild of Professor Fred Alexander, it’s now Australia’s longest-running international art-based festival. From its first event at University of Western Australia, it now spans across Noongar Boodjar country (Perth City) bringing worldclass performances into the hearts of ardent festivalgoers. Hundreds of curtain calls, including numerous free events, are set to linger and leave a lasting impression on those who seek thrills that fill life’s in-between spaces. Featuring unmissable highlights from 6th February to 1st March, we’ve done the legwork for you – here’s what’s on, and where:

    1. East Perth Power Station

    East Perth Power Station during Perth Festival
    See East Perth Power Station come alive. (Image: Jessica Wyld Photography)

    Abandoned, run-down and shutdown in 1981, East Perth Power Station , located on the banks of the stunning Swan River, was reinvented in 2025 as an entertainment venue for the Perth Festival. Pack a picnic, bring the family and kick back under paperbark trees at Casa Musica – a free event featuring a melting pot of world-class musicians from Australian shores and around the globe. The diversity will have you bopping until the final encore.

    A decade after David Bowie’s passing, his powerful music lives on in the electrifying show, Rebel Rebel . Powerhouse vocalists join Perth Symphony Orchestra for one incredible night showcasing the singer-songwriter’s iconic hits. Illuminate your world through the eyes of First Nation Noongar artist, Lance Chadd Tjyllyungoo in a free event. His distinctive paintings and Dreamtime stories decorate the Power Station’s walls depicting spiritual beliefs. Or settle in to watch British indie pop singer-songwriter, Nilüfer Yanya .

    2. St Mary’s Cathedral

    Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth
    Take in Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth. (Image: Anja Schutz)

    Step into the lofty ceilings of Perth’s grandest cathedral, St Mary’s, and soak up choral harmonies. Dating back to 1865, the stained-glass reproductions of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper are a talking point, add talented maestros, and the stage is set to enthral.

    The international line-up is impressive. Master Irish fiddler, Martin Hayes takes to the stage with exquisite lyrical compositions from his native land. Åkervinda , an award winning Swedish quartet, weave stories of love, loss, and resilience into harmonious Nordic folk songs. The USA Grammy Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth , break all the rules. Hear their voices echo through the arched vaulted ceilings.

    3. Lotterywest Films

    guests at Lotterywest Films as part of Perth Festival
    Discover the Lotterywest Films program. (Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy)

    One of the festivals longest-running favourites, Lotterywest Films run a rich tapestry of cinematic features showing until 29th of March. Pack a picnic, cushions, popcorn and pop a cork under a Somerville Pine Tree as the sun sets and screenings begin. Cinema lovers, choose your poison from thrillers, deep-dive documentaries, tearjerkers, raunchy rom-coms and side-splitting comedies. The program is fantastically full, the filmmakers the best in the business, and the outdoor setting, unequalled.

    4. The Embassy

    guests at The EMbassy as part of Perth Festival
    Step into the old world glitz of The Embassy. (Image: Franz Bato)

    Modelled on Perth’s historic Embassy Ballroom, a devilish dance venue that operated in the 1900s, The Embassy in Perth Town Hall , serves sophistication in its A-list shows. Set your sequins a’sparkle at the, What’s TINA Got to Do With It extravaganza where guest artists play tribute as they belt out the glitzy star’s hits. The returning act, Ali Bodycoat & The Embassy Big Band, will have you jiving as you take to the dance floor reimagining a bygone era. Who doesn’t like chocolate? Black-bearded drag sensation, La Gateau Chocolat puts the raw in cacao. World-renowned for his feisty range of storied songs, he reveals the inner-man come artist through his deliciously sweet and intimate act.

    5. Unusual locations

    still from The Trial theatre
    Watch a star-studded cast in The Trial. (Image: Cole Baxter)

    We’ve all heard of the hit show, The Office, but a spinetingling operatic thriller acted out in disused office space? Philip Glass’ nail-biter, The Trial , has a star-studded line-up. Together they deliver a dramatic ordeal showcasing Oscar-winner Christopher Hampton’s libretto; the suspense lingers after the final bow.

    Sit back under starry skies and soak up dynamic dance at Ballet at the Quarry: Incandescence .  Four exclusive classical and contemporary acts illuminate the amphitheatre’s stage as Perth City twinkles at nightfall. Mystery excites the mind. West Australian Opera returns again with another ‘secret opera’. Be led from an undisclosed meeting point and let the music lead to the secret.

    6. A View From A Bridge

    A View From A Bridge special event at Perth Festival
    Share your innermost thoughts at A View From A Bridge.

    Free, connecting strangers, and inclusive to everyone, artist, Joe Bloom’s collaborative project, A View From A Bridge has one prop – an old red telephone. Talk into the receiver , share thoughts, innermost feelings, memories, hopes and dreams as Bloom captures you from afar. The freedom to speak through the telephone movement has a worldwide following. A range of clips will be shown online.

    What else to do in Perth

    Shadow Wine Bar in perth
    Taste the best of Perth at eateries like Shadow Wine Bar.

    Endless blue skies crown Perth during February, making it the perfect time to explore Australia’s most western capital city. The city might be compact, but it packs a punch when it comes to what’s on. Perth Cultural Centre houses the city’s art-scene venues: Western Australian Art Gallery, WA Museum Boola Bardip and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts (PICA).

    After exploring the city’s alleyways, hidden corners, and main hub, savour worldclass food in Perth’s vibrant eateries. Award-winning restaurants, rooftop bars, and cafes can be found throughout; the leisurely eat-and-drink scene is literally mouthwatering, so book extra nights.

    Start planing your 2026 trip to Perth Festival at perthfestival.com.au .