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This remote luxury Kimberley lodge was nearly wiped out – now it’s reopening in style

Credit: Travel Any Road

Fleur Bainger Fleur Bainger
How a remote Kimberley resort navigated multiple natural disasters during the biggest refurbishment in its history.

Not even two destructive cyclones and record rainfall have been able to stop the remote Kimberley retreat, Berkeley River Lodge, from reopening in May.

With the arrival of far northern WA’s dry season, the wilderness escape has relaunched itself – somewhat shaken from category four intensity, yet squaring its shoulders with an elegant new look.

Reached by an 80-minute light plane flight from Darwin, the all-inclusive getaway on Balanggarra Country has freshly restored and thoughtfully refurbished 15 of its villas, which are literally anchored into a cresting sand dune.

It has also added new wellness elements and developed new open-air, snack and multi-course dining experiences.

Battered by two cyclones, record rainfall and months of rebuilding, Berkeley River Lodge has emerged with a stunning new look, blending rugged Kimberley landscapes with luxury villas and unforgettable wellness experiences.

Berkeley River Lodge reopens

couple walking in Berkeley River Lodge reopens
Against the odds, Berkeley River Lodge reopens. (Credit: Travel Any Road)

Its May reopening is an astounding achievement.

In late November 2025, Cyclone Fina tore through the lodge, snapping trees, bending steel and cutting power and water supplies. A quarter of the resort’s triangular accommodations didn’t survive wind gusts of up to 260 kmph: three were destroyed, and two others sustained substantial damage.

“It wasn’t just a few hours, which can often be the case; the cyclone spent literally nearly 13.5 hours over us," says co-owner Rachel Bromage of Saltwater Hotels & Resorts.

The lodge kicked off a three-year refurbishment in 2023, the most significant since its 2012 opening.

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Natural disasters

Berkeley River Lodge reopens
Some 38 tradesmen were hired to ready the resort. (Credit: Travel Any Road)

It was 50 per cent done when Cyclone Fina visited, leaving five months for the recovery and luxe revamp.

Then, in March, Cyclone Narelle dumped metres of rain on the battered landscape, closing the region’s roads and hampering the transportation of goods. In all, the lodge recorded at least 1,500mm of cyclonic and wet season rainfall.

“I don’t think there’s anything that could’ve prepared me for the last five months at Berkeley," says Bromage. “I did the build of the Metung Hot Springs in Victoria during Covid, and that was challenging, but this doesn’t compare."

The effort saw eight barge loads of 10 sea containers arrive, as well as 54 trade and freight planes. Some 38 tradesmen were hired to rebuild, refit and restore the resort. The new look, completed late April, has transformed the property.

Berkeley River Lodge’s new look

Berkeley River Lodge new dining room
The dining area features jaw-dropping views. (Credit: Travel Any Road)

Bromage worked with Perth-based Empire Home to create an elevated atmosphere synonymous with the raw, wild Kimberley surrounds, using luxe linens, weathered woods, and natural tones ranging from khaki green to rusty ochre.

Organically shaped benches made from recycled teak tree roots grace a remote sunset spot beneath pandanus palms. They also ring an outdoor ‘Barefoot Barbecue’ setting – one of several new experiences – overlooking endless wilderness.

The dining area’s safari-like chairs sport silver buckles on leather in arid green, while the 4m-long dining table is a one-of-a-kind antique.

“It was a feat getting it up from the barge to the lodge. I can’t remember how many guys it took, maybe 10 of them," says Bromage.

Berkeley River Lodge new room
Each villa is now supplied with a stylish cooler. (Credit: Travel Any Road)

A space has also been created for a new Kimberley Pantry – aka a snack bar – that guests can raid. Each villa is supplied with a stylish Fieldbar cooler that can be taken for spontaneous beach picnics or used as a portable mini bar.

Inside the freshly painted villas, beds are dressed in all-cotton doonas and white linen. Sustainable bamboo coat hangers that look like art pieces hang in the open wardrobes, alongside French linen robes by Carlotta & Gee.

New, hot stone massages are now held in-villa; one per guest is included in the tariff. The Kimberley Spa’s massage tables are pre-set up ahead of guests’ arrivals, with relaxing music and spritzed scent sweetening the air.

Relaxation is complemented by new Morning Movement Sessions held on the refurbished pool’s deck, with breathwork, yin yoga and qigong held in luminous morning light.

For Bromage, simply opening is moving enough.

“I’ve never felt so proud, with such an accomplishment of the whole team," she says.

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The details

Berkeley River Lodge new bathtub
Book in and relax. (Credit: Travel Any Road)

Opening: May to August
Bookings: Stays have a five-night minimum, with included flights departing Darwin.
Website: berkeleyriverlodge.com.au

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Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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Australia’s second-oldest wine region is also one of its best, but you may not have heard of it

(Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
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    A 25-minute drive from Perth is all you need to be amongst generations of grape growers. 

    You might not know Swan Valley, but the vines here twist through almost 200 years of history. Today, plump grapes are still plucked, pressed by juice-stained hands and fermented into wine – a journey led by the same families who will pour it into your glass. And with that first taste, you’ve unknowingly become part of a generations-old tradition. 

    So, sit back and take a sip of a crisp white under that sun-speckled pergola and listen to the warbling of magpies – here’s what makes the Swan Valley so special. 

    Western Australia’s oldest wine region 

    Mandoon Estate bathed in the warm glow of sunset.
    Sip your way through Swan Valley’s rich wine heritage. (Image: Tourism WA)

    In 1829, the very year Europeans settled in Perth, the first vines were planted in the Swan Valley. Later, Croatian and Italian migrants blended their southern European winemaking traditions into the local viticulture, a combination that works so well in the Mediterranean climate here. 

    The result today is crisp, tropical Verdelho, dark, fruity Shiraz and plenty of Chenin Blanc – a third of the country’s Chenin Blanc is crushed here. 

    So where to start uncorking? Mandoon Estate has an Aboriginal art gallery and a sculpture trail, where you can taste an Indigenous food platter of smoked crocodile and emu sausages. 

    For a taste of the valley’s Italian heritage, head to Pinelli Estate Winery. Or, for something indulgent – and a little unusual, considering the inland location – RiverBank Estate Winery serves lobster straight from tanks, paired with that Chenin Blanc. 

    If you prefer something stronger in your glass, Talijancich Wines knows a thing or two about fortified drops: try its aged tawny, Muscat and liqueur Verdelho. 

    Sensational dining 

    A beautifully presented dish paired with champagne.
    Pair great food with a scenic winery setting. (Image: Tourism Caversham)

    The Swan Valley follows that great Australian wine-country tradition, with everything from unfussily fantastic pub meals and beer gardens to unexpected fine dining at cellar doors. 

    Start at Edgecombe Winery, which does brunch as well as drops. Their brioche French toast with raspberry and rhubarb coulis, poached pear and roasted pistachios will taste best when you’re perched at a table outside. Don’t forget to explore their orchard and wetland afterwards. 

    Pick up a box of freshly baked macarons from Maison Saint-Honoré (bien sûr) before heading to Valley Social for a North American barbecue-inspired feed. Chow down on beef brisket burnt ends and wash them down with a hemp-infused craft beer. 

    Baskerville Tavern is brewing beer again in the former Feral Brewpub. Order their Monday special – a classic chicken parmi – and try Slumdog Brewing’s regular range, including a tart blueberry sour made with fresh and freeze-dried berries. In winter, it’s time for their seasonal seven-malt stout, with notes of dark chocolate, coffee and caramel. 

    An unbeatable visitor’s centre

    In Guildford is the Swan Valley Visitor Centre in a restored 1866 courthouse. Its award-winning staff know everything about anything happening in the Swan Valley. Pick their brains (and pick up a free map) before setting off. But, check out the centre’s Welcome to Country mural by local Whadjuk artist Chloe Caylon first. 

    Scenic drives 

    Use that handy Visitor Centre map to get a bit of everything on the Swan Valley’s 32-kilometre scenic loop, which connects over 150 attractions. Think roadside produce stalls, art galleries and historic buildings. Just remember to organise that designated driver if you’re extra keen on the vineyard stops. 

    Other drops 

    If the thought of wine makes your temples pulse, there are plenty of other tipples to tickle your fancy. Txoko Brewing in Baskerville takes its name from a Basque gathering place for cooking, drinking and socialising. Work through its rotating beers and plates of Spanish croquettes and sardines, then settle on the grass while the kids let off steam in the playground. 

    AmberChes Spirits Distillery uses locally sourced botanicals and fruit to make saltbush gin, lemon myrtle gin and Gincello, a twist on limoncello. Try its award-winning sloe gin, which was named Australia’s best at the 2025 Gin Guide Awards. Better yet, have a go at making your own in a hands-on gin-blending and distilling class among the vines. 

    Historic architecture and an arts scene 

    Traditional art celebrating First Nations culture.
    Explore the stories behind the Swan Valley. (Image: Tourism WA)

    Next: Guildford. It is one of WA’s earliest colonial settlements – but the history here goes back much further. The Whadjuk Noongar people are the land’s Traditional Custodians, whose Dreaming tells of the Wagyl serpent creating the gum tree-lined Swan River. Today, Guildford’s original town layout remains largely unchanged. Follow one of four heritage walks past 19th-century buildings, galleries and James Street’s antique shops. 

    Take home pantry staples 

    The display counter at Margaret River Chocolate Company.
    Treat yourself to a chocolate-filled detour. (Image: Tourism WA)

    Sometimes the little stops are just as good as the big hitters. Pull over at Margaret River Chocolate Company for free tastings of white, milk and dark chocolate. Then stop by Harvey Cheese Swan Valley for Lemon Myrtle Ash Brie or St Duke’s Red. End at The House of Honey, where you can sample local honey and get buzzy on honey ice cream pancakes. 

    Nature and wildlife 

    A close-up of a koala in its natural habitat.
    Add a little wildlife adventure. (Image: Tourism WA)

    If the kids have had enough of winery lawns, save the bottles for later and head to Caversham Wildlife Park. Here, you can hand-feed kangaroos and meet koalas and wombats. Catch working sheepdogs and sheep-shearing demonstrations at the Farm Show. Elsewhere in Whiteman Park, hop aboard a vintage train or tram, or cool off in the splash pool. 

    Finish at Bells Rapids, where fuchsia grevillea, crimson bottlebrush and yellow wattles bloom each spring. 

    Start planning your culinary escape at swanvalley.com.au.