El Questro Wilderness Park- Australian Traveller

Whether you’re soaking in thermal springs beneath prehistoric palms, hiking through ancient gorges or taking scenic champagne flights to remote beaches, a journey to El Questro in WA’s East Kimberley combines classic outback adventure with a splash of luxury.

As we thunder along the red dirt road there isn’t a storm cloud in sight. No sign of the heavenly downpour that took place here just last week. Technically it’s the start of the wet season in the East Kimberley, but as our 4WD travels over thirsty earth, we leave a plume of dust in our wake.

Later as we slow-weave our way deeper into the landscape, the majesty of Balanggarra Country is so close we can literally reach out of our open-style safari vehicle and touch it. As if reading our thoughts, our Akubra-clad guide, Todd Smith, looks back eagerly through the rear vision mirror. “Do you reckon you can keep a secret?" he asks with excitement brimming in his voice. “If so, I’ll show you something really special."

Traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park

It’s a big call in a place known for containing some of the country’s most remarkable outback treasures, and though I’ve promised not to reveal its exact location within the 284,000 hectares that make up El Questro Wilderness Park, I can confirm that the sighting of the bower is one of our most memorable moments.

Intricately crafted to attract a female mate, the male bowerbird’s elaborate courtship structure is a magnificent piece of avian architecture. The domed avenue of thatched twigs is striking – its entrance decorated with strategically placed bones, pebbles and other brightly coloured foraged objects, such as a button that’s presumably come loose from the shirt of a passing hiker.

Home to unique wildlife and more than 300 bird species, the Kimberley region is regarded as one of the last remaining true wilderness areas on Earth, with El Questro at the centre of its beating heart.

brolgas flying above El Questro — Brolgas are also easily spotted here. (Image: Todd Smith)

A station stay for road trip adventurers

High on the wishlist of many Australian travellers, the former cattle property’s exclusive homestead overlooking the Chamberlain River provides some of the country’s most luxurious retreat-style accommodation, while The Station and Emma Gorge sites provide more modest facilities with access to highlights of its vast Wilderness Park. It’s a must-stop destination for road trip adventurers undertaking the iconic Gibb River Road.

an aerial view of a car driving in El Questro Wilderness Park — Embrace the outback scenery. (Image: Tourism Australia)

While this epic road is the heartland’s main artery, stretching 660 kilometres from Derby in the west to Kununurra in the east, our group of four have opted for the slightly easier route here to explore savannah grasslands, ancient gorges, winding rivers and cascading waterfalls within pockets of prehistoric rainforest – flying into the gateway town of Kununurra, before hiring a 4WD to take us 110 kilometres west; first along the Great Northern Highway, then a sealed section of the famed Gibb River Road with its legendary Pentecost River crossing, and finally a gravel track leading to El Questro Station.

a close-up photo of the hidden waterfalls at El Questro Wilderness Park — El Questro Wilderness Park is home to hidden waterfalls. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Incredible things to do

Hike the scenic El Questro Gorge

Back at the bower, three loud squawks from the giant bowerbird are our cue to continue the morning’s adventures. Clearing a river crossing, we arrive early at the entrance to El Questro Gorge to beat the heat, but before setting off on the trail Todd makes an acknowledgement of Country to pay respect to the Balanggarra people, the Traditional Owners of this northern section of the Wilderness Park.

Important to local First Nations people, El Questro Gorge is also one of the Wilderness Park’s most popular day hikes, with the 7.2-kilometre return trip taking approximately three to five hours to complete and including stops to swim along the way at the aptly named Halfway Pool and MacMicking Pool, with its waterfall, at the end.

an aerial view of visitors swimming in El Questro — Plunge right into the refreshing waters below the gorge. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cool off at Emma Gorge’s waterfalls

Another favourite is the Emma Gorge Trail which – being fortunate enough to have now visited this once-in-a-lifetime destination twice – I completed four years earlier. Known as one of the most challenging hikes in one of the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley, I think back to the awe-inspiring experience of watching Emma Gorge’s 65-metre-high waterfall spill down the side of a chasm – droplets falling on my skin as I floated blissfully beneath.

a woman standing in front of Emma Gorge's waterfall — Swimming beneath Emma Gorge’s 65-metre waterfall is awe-inspiring. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Sandwiched now between the towering cliff faces of El Questro Gorge, we follow the winding creek through its base. Eyes down as we rock-hop along, I remind myself to look up. And when I do, I marvel at the beauty of 1.8-billion-year-old Wunaamin Miliwundi sandstone with its gold and amber hues shifting in the sunlight like those within a cathedral.

Soft morning rays also filter through the rainforest’s prehistoric foliage. “The taller of these palms is the livistona which can reach up to 18 metres and the other is the pandanus spiralus which grows upwards in a spiral," Todd says before explaining how.

cruising down the Chamberlain Gorge — A cruise down the river to Chamberlain Gorge is a chance to spot crocodiles and rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Explore the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley: Lake Argyle

Just 40 minutes from Kununurra via the Victoria Highway and through the Carr Boyd Ranges, Lake Argyle is a must-visit on your East Kimberley road trip. And while the Kimberley’s first diamond deposit might have been discovered here in 1979, it’s not the only reason it’s known as the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley.

More than 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, Lake Argyle is the second-largest freshwater reservoir in Australia, and though man-made, it is a haven for native wildlife and a playground for locals and visitors alike. Once home to Kimberley pioneering family the Duracks, Lake Argyle on Miriwoong Country is now home to more than 70 islands. With multiple opportunities to explore them (including bushwalking trails, and paddleboard and kayak hire), the best way by far is via helicopter and boat.

an aerial shot of the 70 islands on Lake Argyle — The lake contains more than 70 islands. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise

Departing from Lake Argyle Resort, take the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise to learn about the lake’s history, spot wildlife, enjoy refreshments and swim in the company of over 30,000 friendly freshwater crocodiles.

a crocodile lurking beneath the surface of Chamberlain River — Watch out for crocodile sightings along the Chamberlain River. (Image: Todd Smith)

Helispirit tour

Alternatively, take to the sky for a scenic helicopter tour with Helispirit that includes stopping for a swim and picnic with bubbles at one of the island’s beaches.

a helicopter soaring over Lake Argyle — Soar over Lake Argyle with Helispirit. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Lake Argyle Resort has accommodation options including Deluxe Lakeview Cabins perched over Lake Argyle, a restaurant with live entertainment, and an infinity pool that could be Australia’s most instagrammable, giving good reason to stay and play longer.

a gourmet picnic during a scenic flight with Helispirit — The scenic flight is complete with a gourmet picnic. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cross the rough trail along Pentecost River

After lunch, I’m ready for some downtime before the last outing of the day. Sitting on the private deck of my Riverside Room, I gaze lazily into wild tropical greenery and listen to the chorus of frogs and the babble of the Pentecost River flowing gently past.

a man setting up a bonfire outside his 4WD in El Questro — Make a stopover to appreciate the majestic scenery. (Image: Sean Scott)

When late afternoon finally rolls around, so do we. Back in our 4WD, we bump across creeks and along a steep and winding section of track in search of a legendary lookout. Named in honour of former Kimberley rodeo champion, cattle driver and El Questro guide Buddy Tyson – who was known for his ability to crack a joke as fast as he could a whip – Buddy’s Point doesn’t disappoint.

a 4WD crossing the Pentecost River — Buckle up and drive across the Pentecost River. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Popping open a bottle of bubbly, we drink in 360-degree views of the glowing landscape. Silence is golden, so they say, and here – as we look out over rivers and ranges, wrapped in sunset’s blanket – that saying certainly rings true. We are lost for words as a peaceful stillness takes hold, and like the red dirt that has already begun to seep into our skin, we know that by the time we leave, a piece of the Kimberley’s heart will have found a way into our own.

a woman gazing at the sunset on top of a hill — Gaze at the golden sunset. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Preserving El Questro’s Indigenous charm

In a recently signed landmark agreement between the Western Australian Government and the Wilinggin Aboriginal Corporation (WAC), 165,000 hectares of El Questro Wilderness Park – including El Questro’s luxury homestead, its station, Chamberlain Gorge and Zebedee Springs – will be returned to the Traditional Owners of the land lying south of the Gibb River Road, the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin people.

an aerial shot of the El Questro's luxury homestead — El Questro’s luxury Homestead overlooks the Chamberlain River. (Image: G’day Group)

The historic Indigenous Land Use Agreement will see the pastoral lease converted to freehold and El Questro’s cattle station turned into a nature reserve, with El Questro’s current operator, the G’day Group, able to continue its tourism activities after securing a 99-year lease with Traditional Owners in November 2022.

In a win-win for all, the G’day Group has revealed it is working with the WAC to include new First Nations cultural experiences for guests, plus employment and training for local Indigenous youth. The G’day Group has also stated the agreement will allow them to build sustainability and ecotourism credentials through the improvement of water, land and waste management systems, the purchase of carbon credits from the WAC to operate with ‘net zero’ emissions, plus the removal of livestock for the restoration of the natural environment.

the El Questro homestead perched above the river — The remote settlement is perched above the river. (Image: G’day Group)

Getting there

Fly direct to Kununurra from Perth, Broome or Darwin with Virgin, Qantas or Airnorth.

Staying there

El Questro ’s season is from April to October. Accommodation includes luxury stays at The Homestead (from $2155 per night), safari-style tented cabins at Emma Gorge (from $350 per night), riverside and garden view rooms (from $395 per night) and camping (from $23 per night) at The Station.

a bedroom with balcony facing a garden view at El Questro Homestead — Be enveloped in wilderness and luxury at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Dan Avila/G’day Group)

Playing there

Take a scenic flight with Aviair over the tiger-striped domes of the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park; view and buy art at Waringarri Aboriginal Arts and learn about the culture of the Miriwoong people ; and get a taste of the East Kimberley at Hoochery Distillery .

an artist focusing on creating her artwork — Artist Cathy Ward showcases her artwork. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Good to know

The best way Australians can help the Kimberley tourism sector following the January floods is to keep their bookings and visit when the time is right; popular spots including Broome, Kununurra and El Questro are ready to welcome visitors for the 2023 season.

two boab trees amidst the sunset background — The iconic boab tree is endemic to the Kimberley region. (Image: Todd Smith)

Time your visit to Margaret River just right, and you can spend the ultimate weekend wining, dining and exploring the region with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

Wine, world-class produce, surf, sun and beaches: it’s an alluring combination. And the reason so many pin the Margaret River region high on their travel hit-lists. There’s drawcard after drawcard to the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and the Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover food and wine festival showcases the best of it over the course of one weekend in November. It’s never been easier to sip, see and savour the Margaret River region.

In partnership with Pair’d Margaret River Region, Range Rover invites you on a seven-day itinerary of refined adventure, where luxury and exploration go hand in hand. It’s the perfect WA road trip, and there’s no better way to do it than in a Range Rover.

Day 1

the pool at Pullman Bunker Bay — Check into Pullman Bunker Bay.

There’s no more popular West Australian road trip route than that between Perth and the Margaret River Region. It’s an easily digestible, three-hour drive, with worthy pit stops along the way.

Make the first of them one hour and 15 minutes in, at Lake Clifton. Here, find a 2000-year-old living thrombolite reef. Drive for a further 40 minutes and chance meeting some of Bunbury’s dolphin population at Koombana Bay.

Pullman Bunker Bay is the final stop, just over three hours south of Perth. This beachfront, five-star resort is the ultimate base for exploring the Margaret River Wine region.

Day 2

After a leisurely morning breakfast with an ocean view, start your Range Rover and head towards the Dunsborough town centre. Browsing the decidedly coastal-themed goods of the town’s many independent boutiques is a great way to while away the hours, breaking up the sartorial with an artisan gelato snack stop, or some good old-fashioned Australian bakery fare.

Leave room; you’ll need it for the Good Natured Gathering dinner at Wayfinder. Indulge in a four-course feast by chef Felipe Montiel, which uses produce from the winery’s market garden to enhance a selection of sustainably sourced seafood and meat. But food is just the support act. It’s organic wine that’s the star of the show, generously poured and expertly paired to each dish.

Day 3

Settle in for cabernet at Cape Mentelle Winery.

With a grand total of 20 wines from vintage 2022 to try, it’s a good thing Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting kicks off early. Make your way to the estate for a 10:00 AM start, where a global selection of wines will be poured blind, before a long lunch by Tiller Dining is served.

Given that the Margaret River is responsible for more than 20 per cent of Australia’s fine wine production, it’s only right to delve into it while in the area.

Continue exploring the region via taste and terroir aboard Alison Maree, a whale-watching catamaran, as you cruise Geographe Bay . Admire the rolling green hills and crisp white beaches of Quindalup in sunset’s golden light, all the while sipping through the Clairault Streicker catalogue and dining on canapes.

For a more substantial dinner, venture into Busselton for a seven-course British x Australian mash-up , courtesy of Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion) and Oliver Kent (Updown Farmhouse, UK). They’ll be putting their rustic yet refined spin on the likes of local marron, wagyu and abalone – championing the simple beauty of the world-class ingredients.

Day 4

Wrap your fingers around a wine glass and wiggle your toes into the sand at Pair’d Beach Club x Range Rover on Meelup Beach. Sit down to an intimate wine session with sommelier Cyndal Petty – or a four-course feast by Aaron Carr of Yarri – and revel in the open-air beach club, bar and restaurant’s laidback coastal vibe. It’s a whole new way to experience one of the region’s most renowned beaches.

Follow up a day in the sun with a casual Italian party at Mr Barvel Wines . Purchase wines –including the elusive, sold-out Nebbia – by the glass and enjoy canapes with the towering Karri forest as a backdrop.

If you’d prefer to keep it local, head to Skigh Wines for the New Wave Gathering , where the region’s independent wine makers and their boundary-pushing wines will be on show. Street-style eats, a DJ and complimentary wine masterclasses complete the experience.

Day 5

pair'd Grand Tasting — Taste your way through Howard Park Wines. (Image: C J Maddock)

Spend the morning at your leisure, driving the winding roads through the Boranup Karri forest in your Range Rover. Soak in the views at Contos Beach, and call into the small cheese, chocolate and preserve producers along the way.

Make your next stop Howard Park Wines for The Grand Tasting presented by Singapore Airlines . Numerous wine labels will be pouring their catalogues over four hours, accompanied by food from chefs Matt Moran and Silvia Colloca, with live opera providing the soundtrack.

Cap off a big weekend with one last hurrah at Busselton Pavilion. Six ‘local legends’ – chefs Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion), Mal Chow (Chow’s Table), Aaron Carr (Yarri), Ben Jacob (Lagoon Yallingup), Corey Rozario (Dahl Daddies) and Laura Koentjoro (Banksia Tavern) – will be preparing a dish each. Dance the night away as vinyl spins and the sun sets on another day.

Day 6

Ngilgi Cave western australia — Head underground. (Image: Tourism WA)

After a busy few days of wining and dining, it’s wise to observe a rest day. There’s no easier task than unwinding in the Margaret River Region, also famous for its high concentration of world-class beaches.

Relax on the grassy knoll as you watch the region’s most experienced surfers braving the World Surf League break at Surfer’s Point, or don your own wetsuit and try out one of Gracetown’s more beginner-friendly waves. Swimmers will find their Eden at Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, or Point Piquet, where the sand is brilliantly white and the water as still as a backyard swimming pool.

Not into sun, sand, and surf? Head underground at Mammoth Cave, just one of the region’s many stalactite-filled caves.

Day 7

Burnt Ends event at Pair'd — Farewell the Margaret River.

Pack up your Range Rover with new favourite wines and newfound memories, ready for the three-hour journey back to Perth.

Prebook your discovery journey through the south-west corner of Western Australia with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

A remarkable 4WD journey in El Questro Wilderness Park