El Questro Wilderness Park- Australian Traveller

Whether you’re soaking in thermal springs beneath prehistoric palms, hiking through ancient gorges or taking scenic champagne flights to remote beaches, a journey to El Questro in WA’s East Kimberley combines classic outback adventure with a splash of luxury.

As we thunder along the red dirt road there isn’t a storm cloud in sight. No sign of the heavenly downpour that took place here just last week. Technically it’s the start of the wet season in the East Kimberley, but as our 4WD travels over thirsty earth, we leave a plume of dust in our wake.

Later as we slow-weave our way deeper into the landscape, the majesty of Balanggarra Country is so close we can literally reach out of our open-style safari vehicle and touch it. As if reading our thoughts, our Akubra-clad guide, Todd Smith, looks back eagerly through the rear vision mirror. “Do you reckon you can keep a secret?" he asks with excitement brimming in his voice. “If so, I’ll show you something really special."

Traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park

It’s a big call in a place known for containing some of the country’s most remarkable outback treasures, and though I’ve promised not to reveal its exact location within the 284,000 hectares that make up El Questro Wilderness Park, I can confirm that the sighting of the bower is one of our most memorable moments.

Intricately crafted to attract a female mate, the male bowerbird’s elaborate courtship structure is a magnificent piece of avian architecture. The domed avenue of thatched twigs is striking – its entrance decorated with strategically placed bones, pebbles and other brightly coloured foraged objects, such as a button that’s presumably come loose from the shirt of a passing hiker.

Home to unique wildlife and more than 300 bird species, the Kimberley region is regarded as one of the last remaining true wilderness areas on Earth, with El Questro at the centre of its beating heart.

brolgas flying above El Questro — Brolgas are also easily spotted here. (Image: Todd Smith)

A station stay for road trip adventurers

High on the wishlist of many Australian travellers, the former cattle property’s exclusive homestead overlooking the Chamberlain River provides some of the country’s most luxurious retreat-style accommodation, while The Station and Emma Gorge sites provide more modest facilities with access to highlights of its vast Wilderness Park. It’s a must-stop destination for road trip adventurers undertaking the iconic Gibb River Road.

an aerial view of a car driving in El Questro Wilderness Park — Embrace the outback scenery. (Image: Tourism Australia)

While this epic road is the heartland’s main artery, stretching 660 kilometres from Derby in the west to Kununurra in the east, our group of four have opted for the slightly easier route here to explore savannah grasslands, ancient gorges, winding rivers and cascading waterfalls within pockets of prehistoric rainforest – flying into the gateway town of Kununurra, before hiring a 4WD to take us 110 kilometres west; first along the Great Northern Highway, then a sealed section of the famed Gibb River Road with its legendary Pentecost River crossing, and finally a gravel track leading to El Questro Station.

a close-up photo of the hidden waterfalls at El Questro Wilderness Park — El Questro Wilderness Park is home to hidden waterfalls. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Incredible things to do

Hike the scenic El Questro Gorge

Back at the bower, three loud squawks from the giant bowerbird are our cue to continue the morning’s adventures. Clearing a river crossing, we arrive early at the entrance to El Questro Gorge to beat the heat, but before setting off on the trail Todd makes an acknowledgement of Country to pay respect to the Balanggarra people, the Traditional Owners of this northern section of the Wilderness Park.

Important to local First Nations people, El Questro Gorge is also one of the Wilderness Park’s most popular day hikes, with the 7.2-kilometre return trip taking approximately three to five hours to complete and including stops to swim along the way at the aptly named Halfway Pool and MacMicking Pool, with its waterfall, at the end.

an aerial view of visitors swimming in El Questro — Plunge right into the refreshing waters below the gorge. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cool off at Emma Gorge’s waterfalls

Another favourite is the Emma Gorge Trail which – being fortunate enough to have now visited this once-in-a-lifetime destination twice – I completed four years earlier. Known as one of the most challenging hikes in one of the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley, I think back to the awe-inspiring experience of watching Emma Gorge’s 65-metre-high waterfall spill down the side of a chasm – droplets falling on my skin as I floated blissfully beneath.

a woman standing in front of Emma Gorge's waterfall — Swimming beneath Emma Gorge’s 65-metre waterfall is awe-inspiring. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Sandwiched now between the towering cliff faces of El Questro Gorge, we follow the winding creek through its base. Eyes down as we rock-hop along, I remind myself to look up. And when I do, I marvel at the beauty of 1.8-billion-year-old Wunaamin Miliwundi sandstone with its gold and amber hues shifting in the sunlight like those within a cathedral.

Soft morning rays also filter through the rainforest’s prehistoric foliage. “The taller of these palms is the livistona which can reach up to 18 metres and the other is the pandanus spiralus which grows upwards in a spiral," Todd says before explaining how.

cruising down the Chamberlain Gorge — A cruise down the river to Chamberlain Gorge is a chance to spot crocodiles and rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Explore the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley: Lake Argyle

Just 40 minutes from Kununurra via the Victoria Highway and through the Carr Boyd Ranges, Lake Argyle is a must-visit on your East Kimberley road trip. And while the Kimberley’s first diamond deposit might have been discovered here in 1979, it’s not the only reason it’s known as the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley.

More than 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, Lake Argyle is the second-largest freshwater reservoir in Australia, and though man-made, it is a haven for native wildlife and a playground for locals and visitors alike. Once home to Kimberley pioneering family the Duracks, Lake Argyle on Miriwoong Country is now home to more than 70 islands. With multiple opportunities to explore them (including bushwalking trails, and paddleboard and kayak hire), the best way by far is via helicopter and boat.

an aerial shot of the 70 islands on Lake Argyle — The lake contains more than 70 islands. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise

Departing from Lake Argyle Resort, take the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise to learn about the lake’s history, spot wildlife, enjoy refreshments and swim in the company of over 30,000 friendly freshwater crocodiles.

a crocodile lurking beneath the surface of Chamberlain River — Watch out for crocodile sightings along the Chamberlain River. (Image: Todd Smith)

Helispirit tour

Alternatively, take to the sky for a scenic helicopter tour with Helispirit that includes stopping for a swim and picnic with bubbles at one of the island’s beaches.

a helicopter soaring over Lake Argyle — Soar over Lake Argyle with Helispirit. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Lake Argyle Resort has accommodation options including Deluxe Lakeview Cabins perched over Lake Argyle, a restaurant with live entertainment, and an infinity pool that could be Australia’s most instagrammable, giving good reason to stay and play longer.

a gourmet picnic during a scenic flight with Helispirit — The scenic flight is complete with a gourmet picnic. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cross the rough trail along Pentecost River

After lunch, I’m ready for some downtime before the last outing of the day. Sitting on the private deck of my Riverside Room, I gaze lazily into wild tropical greenery and listen to the chorus of frogs and the babble of the Pentecost River flowing gently past.

a man setting up a bonfire outside his 4WD in El Questro — Make a stopover to appreciate the majestic scenery. (Image: Sean Scott)

When late afternoon finally rolls around, so do we. Back in our 4WD, we bump across creeks and along a steep and winding section of track in search of a legendary lookout. Named in honour of former Kimberley rodeo champion, cattle driver and El Questro guide Buddy Tyson – who was known for his ability to crack a joke as fast as he could a whip – Buddy’s Point doesn’t disappoint.

a 4WD crossing the Pentecost River — Buckle up and drive across the Pentecost River. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Popping open a bottle of bubbly, we drink in 360-degree views of the glowing landscape. Silence is golden, so they say, and here – as we look out over rivers and ranges, wrapped in sunset’s blanket – that saying certainly rings true. We are lost for words as a peaceful stillness takes hold, and like the red dirt that has already begun to seep into our skin, we know that by the time we leave, a piece of the Kimberley’s heart will have found a way into our own.

a woman gazing at the sunset on top of a hill — Gaze at the golden sunset. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Preserving El Questro’s Indigenous charm

In a recently signed landmark agreement between the Western Australian Government and the Wilinggin Aboriginal Corporation (WAC), 165,000 hectares of El Questro Wilderness Park – including El Questro’s luxury homestead, its station, Chamberlain Gorge and Zebedee Springs – will be returned to the Traditional Owners of the land lying south of the Gibb River Road, the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin people.

an aerial shot of the El Questro's luxury homestead — El Questro’s luxury Homestead overlooks the Chamberlain River. (Image: G’day Group)

The historic Indigenous Land Use Agreement will see the pastoral lease converted to freehold and El Questro’s cattle station turned into a nature reserve, with El Questro’s current operator, the G’day Group, able to continue its tourism activities after securing a 99-year lease with Traditional Owners in November 2022.

In a win-win for all, the G’day Group has revealed it is working with the WAC to include new First Nations cultural experiences for guests, plus employment and training for local Indigenous youth. The G’day Group has also stated the agreement will allow them to build sustainability and ecotourism credentials through the improvement of water, land and waste management systems, the purchase of carbon credits from the WAC to operate with ‘net zero’ emissions, plus the removal of livestock for the restoration of the natural environment.

the El Questro homestead perched above the river — The remote settlement is perched above the river. (Image: G’day Group)

Getting there

Fly direct to Kununurra from Perth, Broome or Darwin with Virgin, Qantas or Airnorth.

Staying there

El Questro ’s season is from April to October. Accommodation includes luxury stays at The Homestead (from $2155 per night), safari-style tented cabins at Emma Gorge (from $350 per night), riverside and garden view rooms (from $395 per night) and camping (from $23 per night) at The Station.

a bedroom with balcony facing a garden view at El Questro Homestead — Be enveloped in wilderness and luxury at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Dan Avila/G’day Group)

Playing there

Take a scenic flight with Aviair over the tiger-striped domes of the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park; view and buy art at Waringarri Aboriginal Arts and learn about the culture of the Miriwoong people ; and get a taste of the East Kimberley at Hoochery Distillery .

an artist focusing on creating her artwork — Artist Cathy Ward showcases her artwork. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Good to know

The best way Australians can help the Kimberley tourism sector following the January floods is to keep their bookings and visit when the time is right; popular spots including Broome, Kununurra and El Questro are ready to welcome visitors for the 2023 season.

two boab trees amidst the sunset background — The iconic boab tree is endemic to the Kimberley region. (Image: Todd Smith)

The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

A group of people enjoy an intimate dining experience at El Questro Homestead. — Dine in the heart of nature.

Your guide to Lake Argyle

The backstory

With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle .

The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.

A boat glides across the expansive waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Kimberley. As part of the Discovery Holiday Parks experience, this unforgettable journey offers adventure and relaxation. — Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.

The rooms

A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins . The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.

The facilities

There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise , during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.

If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise . You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.

Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.

Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.

Two people unwind in an infinity pool, overlooking stunning Lake Argyle at Discovery Holiday Parks. — Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.

Your guide to El Questro

The backstory

One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro . A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.

The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.

A person floats leisurely in the river at Discovery Holiday Parks, immersed in nature’s tranquillity. — Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.

The rooms

Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead , where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.

At Emma Gorge , travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.

Families also love The Station , home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.

Two people stand beside a suite perched on the edge of a striking burnt-orange cliff, gazing out over the serene Chamberlain River below. — Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.

The facilities

Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience ; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.

Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.

A group of people stand beside a tree, with a car parked nearby, taking in the surrounding natural beauty. — Experience thrilling nature activities.

Book your East Kimberley adventure today with Discovery Resorts.

A remarkable 4WD journey in El Questro Wilderness Park

Whether you’re soaking in thermal springs beneath prehistoric palms, hiking through ancient gorges or taking scenic champagne flights to remote beaches, a journey to El Questro in WA’s East Kimberley combines classic outback adventure with a splash of luxury.

Traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park

A station stay for road trip adventurers

Incredible things to do

Hike the scenic El Questro Gorge

Cool off at Emma Gorge’s waterfalls

Explore the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley: Lake Argyle

Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise

Helispirit tour

Cross the rough trail along Pentecost River

Preserving El Questro’s Indigenous charm

Getting there

Staying there

Playing there

Good to know

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Inspire your senses with these iconic East Kimberley stays

The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

Your guide to Lake Argyle

The backstory

The rooms

The facilities

Your guide to El Questro

The backstory

The rooms

The facilities