A remarkable 4WD journey in El Questro Wilderness Park

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Whether you’re soaking in thermal springs beneath prehistoric palms, hiking through ancient gorges or taking scenic champagne flights to remote beaches, a journey to El Questro in WA’s East Kimberley combines classic outback adventure with a splash of luxury.

As we thunder along the red dirt road there isn’t a storm cloud in sight. No sign of the heavenly downpour that took place here just last week. Technically it’s the start of the wet season in the East Kimberley, but as our 4WD travels over thirsty earth, we leave a plume of dust in our wake.

Later as we slow-weave our way deeper into the landscape, the majesty of Balanggarra Country is so close we can literally reach out of our open-style safari vehicle and touch it. As if reading our thoughts, our Akubra-clad guide, Todd Smith, looks back eagerly through the rear vision mirror. “Do you reckon you can keep a secret?" he asks with excitement brimming in his voice. “If so, I’ll show you something really special."

a 4WD traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park
Brave the rough terrain by riding a 4WD. (Image: Todd Smith)

Traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park

It’s a big call in a place known for containing some of the country’s most remarkable outback treasures, and though I’ve promised not to reveal its exact location within the 284,000 hectares that make up El Questro Wilderness Park, I can confirm that the sighting of the bower is one of our most memorable moments.

Intricately crafted to attract a female mate, the male bowerbird’s elaborate courtship structure is a magnificent piece of avian architecture. The domed avenue of thatched twigs is striking – its entrance decorated with strategically placed bones, pebbles and other brightly coloured foraged objects, such as a button that’s presumably come loose from the shirt of a passing hiker.

Home to unique wildlife and more than 300 bird species, the Kimberley region is regarded as one of the last remaining true wilderness areas on Earth, with El Questro at the centre of its beating heart.

brolgas flying above El Questro
Brolgas are also easily spotted here. (Image: Todd Smith)

A station stay for road trip adventurers

High on the wishlist of many Australian travellers, the former cattle property’s exclusive homestead overlooking the Chamberlain River provides some of the country’s most luxurious retreat-style accommodation, while The Station and Emma Gorge sites provide more modest facilities with access to highlights of its vast Wilderness Park. It’s a must-stop destination for road trip adventurers undertaking the iconic Gibb River Road.

an aerial view of a car driving in El Questro Wilderness Park
Embrace the outback scenery. (Image: Tourism Australia)

While this epic road is the heartland’s main artery, stretching 660 kilometres from Derby in the west to Kununurra in the east, our group of four have opted for the slightly easier route here to explore savannah grasslands, ancient gorges, winding rivers and cascading waterfalls within pockets of prehistoric rainforest – flying into the gateway town of Kununurra, before hiring a 4WD to take us 110 kilometres west; first along the Great Northern Highway, then a sealed section of the famed Gibb River Road with its legendary Pentecost River crossing, and finally a gravel track leading to El Questro Station.

a close-up photo of the hidden waterfalls at El Questro Wilderness Park
El Questro Wilderness Park is home to hidden waterfalls. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Incredible things to do

Hike the scenic El Questro Gorge

Back at the bower, three loud squawks from the giant bowerbird are our cue to continue the morning’s adventures. Clearing a river crossing, we arrive early at the entrance to El Questro Gorge to beat the heat, but before setting off on the trail Todd makes an acknowledgement of Country to pay respect to the Balanggarra people, the Traditional Owners of this northern section of the Wilderness Park.

Important to local First Nations people, El Questro Gorge is also one of the Wilderness Park’s most popular day hikes, with the 7.2-kilometre return trip taking approximately three to five hours to complete and including stops to swim along the way at the aptly named Halfway Pool and MacMicking Pool, with its waterfall, at the end.

an aerial view of visitors swimming in El Questro
Plunge right into the refreshing waters below the gorge. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cool off at Emma Gorge’s waterfalls

Another favourite is the Emma Gorge Trail which – being fortunate enough to have now visited this once-in-a-lifetime destination twice – I completed four years earlier. Known as one of the most challenging hikes in one of the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley, I think back to the awe-inspiring experience of watching Emma Gorge’s 65-metre-high waterfall spill down the side of a chasm – droplets falling on my skin as I floated blissfully beneath.

a woman standing in front of Emma Gorge's waterfall
Swimming beneath Emma Gorge’s 65-metre waterfall is awe-inspiring. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Sandwiched now between the towering cliff faces of El Questro Gorge, we follow the winding creek through its base. Eyes down as we rock-hop along, I remind myself to look up. And when I do, I marvel at the beauty of 1.8-billion-year-old Wunaamin Miliwundi sandstone with its gold and amber hues shifting in the sunlight like those within a cathedral.

Soft morning rays also filter through the rainforest’s prehistoric foliage. “The taller of these palms is the livistona which can reach up to 18 metres and the other is the pandanus spiralus which grows upwards in a spiral," Todd says before explaining how.

cruising down the Chamberlain Gorge
A cruise down the river to Chamberlain Gorge is a chance to spot crocodiles and rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Explore the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley: Lake Argyle

Just 40 minutes from Kununurra via the Victoria Highway and through the Carr Boyd Ranges, Lake Argyle is a must-visit on your East Kimberley road trip. And while the Kimberley’s first diamond deposit might have been discovered here in 1979, it’s not the only reason it’s known as the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley.

More than 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, Lake Argyle is the second-largest freshwater reservoir in Australia, and though man-made, it is a haven for native wildlife and a playground for locals and visitors alike. Once home to Kimberley pioneering family the Duracks, Lake Argyle on Miriwoong Country is now home to more than 70 islands. With multiple opportunities to explore them (including bushwalking trails, and paddleboard and kayak hire), the best way by far is via helicopter and boat.

an aerial shot of the 70 islands on Lake Argyle
The lake contains more than 70 islands. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise

Departing from Lake Argyle Resort, take the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise to learn about the lake’s history, spot wildlife, enjoy refreshments and swim in the company of over 30,000 friendly freshwater crocodiles.

a crocodile lurking beneath the surface of Chamberlain River
Watch out for crocodile sightings along the Chamberlain River. (Image: Todd Smith)

Helispirit tour

Alternatively, take to the sky for a scenic helicopter tour with Helispirit that includes stopping for a swim and picnic with bubbles at one of the island’s beaches.

a helicopter soaring over Lake Argyle
Soar over Lake Argyle with Helispirit. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Lake Argyle Resort has accommodation options including Deluxe Lakeview Cabins perched over Lake Argyle, a restaurant with live entertainment, and an infinity pool that could be Australia’s most instagrammable, giving good reason to stay and play longer.

a gourmet picnic during a scenic flight with Helispirit
The scenic flight is complete with a gourmet picnic. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cross the rough trail along Pentecost River

After lunch, I’m ready for some downtime before the last outing of the day. Sitting on the private deck of my Riverside Room, I gaze lazily into wild tropical greenery and listen to the chorus of frogs and the babble of the Pentecost River flowing gently past.

a man setting up a bonfire outside his 4WD in El Questro
Make a stopover to appreciate the majestic scenery. (Image: Sean Scott)

When late afternoon finally rolls around, so do we. Back in our 4WD, we bump across creeks and along a steep and winding section of track in search of a legendary lookout. Named in honour of former Kimberley rodeo champion, cattle driver and El Questro guide Buddy Tyson – who was known for his ability to crack a joke as fast as he could a whip – Buddy’s Point doesn’t disappoint.

a 4WD crossing the Pentecost River
Buckle up and drive across the Pentecost River. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Popping open a bottle of bubbly, we drink in 360-degree views of the glowing landscape. Silence is golden, so they say, and here – as we look out over rivers and ranges, wrapped in sunset’s blanket – that saying certainly rings true. We are lost for words as a peaceful stillness takes hold, and like the red dirt that has already begun to seep into our skin, we know that by the time we leave, a piece of the Kimberley’s heart will have found a way into our own.

a woman gazing at the sunset on top of a hill
Gaze at the golden sunset. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Preserving El Questro’s Indigenous charm

In a recently signed landmark agreement between the Western Australian Government and the Wilinggin Aboriginal Corporation (WAC), 165,000 hectares of El Questro Wilderness Park – including El Questro’s luxury homestead, its station, Chamberlain Gorge and Zebedee Springs – will be returned to the Traditional Owners of the land lying south of the Gibb River Road, the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin people.

an aerial shot of the El Questro's luxury homestead
El Questro’s luxury Homestead overlooks the Chamberlain River. (Image: G’day Group)

The historic Indigenous Land Use Agreement will see the pastoral lease converted to freehold and El Questro’s cattle station turned into a nature reserve, with El Questro’s current operator, the G’day Group, able to continue its tourism activities after securing a 99-year lease with Traditional Owners in November 2022.

In a win-win for all, the G’day Group has revealed it is working with the WAC to include new First Nations cultural experiences for guests, plus employment and training for local Indigenous youth. The G’day Group has also stated the agreement will allow them to build sustainability and ecotourism credentials through the improvement of water, land and waste management systems, the purchase of carbon credits from the WAC to operate with ‘net zero’ emissions, plus the removal of livestock for the restoration of the natural environment.

the El Questro homestead perched above the river
The remote settlement is perched above the river. (Image: G’day Group)

Getting there

Fly direct to Kununurra from Perth, Broome or Darwin with Virgin, Qantas or Airnorth.

Staying there

El Questro ’s season is from April to October. Accommodation includes luxury stays at The Homestead (from $2155 per night), safari-style tented cabins at Emma Gorge (from $350 per night), riverside and garden view rooms (from $395 per night) and camping (from $23 per night) at The Station.

a bedroom with balcony facing a garden view at El Questro Homestead
Be enveloped in wilderness and luxury at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Dan Avila/G’day Group)

Playing there

Take a scenic flight with Aviair over the tiger-striped domes of the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park; view and buy art at Waringarri Aboriginal Arts and learn about the culture of the Miriwoong people ; and get a taste of the East Kimberley at Hoochery Distillery .

an artist focusing on creating her artwork
Artist Cathy Ward showcases her artwork. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Good to know

The best way Australians can help the Kimberley tourism sector following the January floods is to keep their bookings and visit when the time is right; popular spots including Broome, Kununurra and El Questro are ready to welcome visitors for the 2023 season.

two boab trees amidst the sunset background
The iconic boab tree is endemic to the Kimberley region. (Image: Todd Smith)
Bonita Grima
Bonita Grima is a freelance travel writer with a background in television and radio production. With a passion for immersive storytelling, Bonita believes travel has the power to challenge, inspire and educate us, and encourage empathy by providing a window into the worlds of others. Based in Margaret River, when not working on a story, you’ll find her at the beach, on a trail, drinking great coffee, discovering what’s new around town, or simply dreaming up the next adventure!
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Theatre, art and music: Our top picks from this year’s Perth Festival lineup

Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy

    Lynn GailBy Lynn Gail
    Blend the addictive energy of dance, creative cinematic movies, captivating theatre, and energising music during Perth Festival.

    Perth Festival has extraordinary roots. Born as a summer community experiment back in 1953, the brainchild of Professor Fred Alexander, it’s now Australia’s longest-running international art-based festival. From its first event at University of Western Australia, it now spans across Noongar Boodjar country (Perth City) bringing worldclass performances into the hearts of ardent festivalgoers. Hundreds of curtain calls, including numerous free events, are set to linger and leave a lasting impression on those who seek thrills that fill life’s in-between spaces. Featuring unmissable highlights from 6th February to 1st March, we’ve done the legwork for you – here’s what’s on, and where:

    1. East Perth Power Station

    East Perth Power Station during Perth Festival
    See East Perth Power Station come alive. (Image: Jessica Wyld Photography)

    Abandoned, run-down and shutdown in 1981, East Perth Power Station , located on the banks of the stunning Swan River, was reinvented in 2025 as an entertainment venue for the Perth Festival. Pack a picnic, bring the family and kick back under paperbark trees at Casa Musica – a free event featuring a melting pot of world-class musicians from Australian shores and around the globe. The diversity will have you bopping until the final encore.

    A decade after David Bowie’s passing, his powerful music lives on in the electrifying show, Rebel Rebel . Powerhouse vocalists join Perth Symphony Orchestra for one incredible night showcasing the singer-songwriter’s iconic hits. Illuminate your world through the eyes of First Nation Noongar artist, Lance Chadd Tjyllyungoo in a free event. His distinctive paintings and Dreamtime stories decorate the Power Station’s walls depicting spiritual beliefs. Or settle in to watch British indie pop singer-songwriter, Nilüfer Yanya .

    2. St Mary’s Cathedral

    Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth
    Take in Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth. (Image: Anja Schutz)

    Step into the lofty ceilings of Perth’s grandest cathedral, St Mary’s, and soak up choral harmonies. Dating back to 1865, the stained-glass reproductions of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper are a talking point, add talented maestros, and the stage is set to enthral.

    The international line-up is impressive. Master Irish fiddler, Martin Hayes takes to the stage with exquisite lyrical compositions from his native land. Åkervinda , an award winning Swedish quartet, weave stories of love, loss, and resilience into harmonious Nordic folk songs. The USA Grammy Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth , break all the rules. Hear their voices echo through the arched vaulted ceilings.

    3. Lotterywest Films

    guests at Lotterywest Films as part of Perth Festival
    Discover the Lotterywest Films program. (Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy)

    One of the festivals longest-running favourites, Lotterywest Films run a rich tapestry of cinematic features showing until 29th of March. Pack a picnic, cushions, popcorn and pop a cork under a Somerville Pine Tree as the sun sets and screenings begin. Cinema lovers, choose your poison from thrillers, deep-dive documentaries, tearjerkers, raunchy rom-coms and side-splitting comedies. The program is fantastically full, the filmmakers the best in the business, and the outdoor setting, unequalled.

    4. The Embassy

    guests at The EMbassy as part of Perth Festival
    Step into the old world glitz of The Embassy. (Image: Franz Bato)

    Modelled on Perth’s historic Embassy Ballroom, a devilish dance venue that operated in the 1900s, The Embassy in Perth Town Hall , serves sophistication in its A-list shows. Set your sequins a’sparkle at the, What’s TINA Got to Do With It extravaganza where guest artists play tribute as they belt out the glitzy star’s hits. The returning act, Ali Bodycoat & The Embassy Big Band, will have you jiving as you take to the dance floor reimagining a bygone era. Who doesn’t like chocolate? Black-bearded drag sensation, La Gateau Chocolat puts the raw in cacao. World-renowned for his feisty range of storied songs, he reveals the inner-man come artist through his deliciously sweet and intimate act.

    5. Unusual locations

    still from The Trial theatre
    Watch a star-studded cast in The Trial. (Image: Cole Baxter)

    We’ve all heard of the hit show, The Office, but a spinetingling operatic thriller acted out in disused office space? Philip Glass’ nail-biter, The Trial , has a star-studded line-up. Together they deliver a dramatic ordeal showcasing Oscar-winner Christopher Hampton’s libretto; the suspense lingers after the final bow.

    Sit back under starry skies and soak up dynamic dance at Ballet at the Quarry: Incandescence .  Four exclusive classical and contemporary acts illuminate the amphitheatre’s stage as Perth City twinkles at nightfall. Mystery excites the mind. West Australian Opera returns again with another ‘secret opera’. Be led from an undisclosed meeting point and let the music lead to the secret.

    6. A View From A Bridge

    A View From A Bridge special event at Perth Festival
    Share your innermost thoughts at A View From A Bridge.

    Free, connecting strangers, and inclusive to everyone, artist, Joe Bloom’s collaborative project, A View From A Bridge has one prop – an old red telephone. Talk into the receiver , share thoughts, innermost feelings, memories, hopes and dreams as Bloom captures you from afar. The freedom to speak through the telephone movement has a worldwide following. A range of clips will be shown online.

    What else to do in Perth

    Shadow Wine Bar in perth
    Taste the best of Perth at eateries like Shadow Wine Bar.

    Endless blue skies crown Perth during February, making it the perfect time to explore Australia’s most western capital city. The city might be compact, but it packs a punch when it comes to what’s on. Perth Cultural Centre houses the city’s art-scene venues: Western Australian Art Gallery, WA Museum Boola Bardip and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts (PICA).

    After exploring the city’s alleyways, hidden corners, and main hub, savour worldclass food in Perth’s vibrant eateries. Award-winning restaurants, rooftop bars, and cafes can be found throughout; the leisurely eat-and-drink scene is literally mouthwatering, so book extra nights.

    Start planing your 2026 trip to Perth Festival at perthfestival.com.au .