Paying for a guide who doesn’t talk to you and leaves you alone in the bush? Yes please.
I’m kneeling on rusted rock at the base of a splintering waterfall in WA’s Kimberley, and my guide is walking away from me. The crunch of his hiking boots softens as the distance between us grows, until I can no longer see his knees bending over the golden grasses. Perhaps I should feel alarmed at this apparent abandonment in the tropical outback, way further from human life than a cooee will travel? But, no. Instead, I sense whole-body peace.
I’m the sole guest on a half-day Silent Tour, an Eco-Star-accredited cruise and walk experience where the usual reel-off of facts and figures, landmarks and species is consciously avoided.
“I like to leave guests plenty of time to use their senses to observe, and I try not to overload people with too much information," says Steve Stevets, a qualified nature therapist guide. He gives his guests permission to just be. No obligation to make conversation, be engaging, to entertain the other. It seems fitting in a place where the sense of calm is as big as the landscape.
Taking time out from talking and civilisation on an eco-electric boat in the Kimberley. (Credit: Fleur Bainger)
Steve moved to Kununurra 18 years ago, not as a guide but as a dietitian. He’d followed his pharmacist parents into the health sector. “I taught people healthy lifestyles, but I realised 90 per cent of them had stress and that’s what influences their food choices," he says. Steve wondered what he could do differently. “I found when I was out bush, my stress levels came down. I looked into the science and there’s a ton of research on the benefits of being in nature."
I step into his take on wellness as I slide into his vessel, a quiet eco-electric boat that’s powered by the very waterway we’re travelling on. The Ord River’s hydro turbines churn water that snakes for 650 kilometres, providing green power for the whole of Wyndham and Kununurra. It feeds the cotton fields that seem to inspire the clouds in a giant, cornflower blue sky.
Stunning reflections at Pelican Rock. (Credit: Steve Stevets)
Relish the peace with Silent Tours on a walk to a waterfall. (Credit: Ben Broady)
Wet season brings to life cascades such as Herbies Waterfall. (Credit: Steve Stevets)
I get that much out of Steve, as I battle feeling quietly perturbed. My default is excited chatter, teamed with an inner-nerd hunger for data. It’s unsettling that the usual supply isn’t forthcoming. Yet as we coast beside a city skyline of blocky red rock – its facets crumpled like paper – the hush becomes easier and, eventually, freeing.
We glide into a leafy crevasse and hike softly through a pandanus thicket edged by reeds. A narrow dirt track serpentines this way and that, as a babbling brook emits tonal sounds like a saturated pipe organ. Butterflies and moths flutter from their camouflage like black confetti and a barking owl calls. Would I notice all this, normally?
We arrive at a spring known as Herbie’s Hideaway. Wading in, the 19°C water feels colder as my hot and humid skin cools. A 40-metre waterfall’s shards caress my face, and underfoot, it’s clear enough to see rocks. This is where Steve leaves me, drying off.
Kick back in nature. (Credit: Fleur Bainger)
When he returns 10 minutes later, I’ve barely moved, staring in a state of awe, free from distraction. In today’s busy, expensive existence, we think we have to suck everything dry, wring out the last ounce of value, make the most of everything. But there’s another way. A silent tour might just be how we find it.
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The details
The tour explores the Ord River by boat and foot. (Credit: Ben Broady)
Tour: Half-day Electric Ord River Eco Cruise, departing morning and afternoon. Tours are customisable and available for a maximum of four guests.
Route: Departing Lily Creek Lagoon in Kununurra and heading up the Ord River
When to go: Bookings are available all year, however it is very hot from November to December. Waterfall tours run from January to April depending on wet season rainfall.
Price: $330pp + $100 discount for direct group bookings of four people ($305pp)
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Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
With its prime position on one of Australia’s most iconic beaches, lush tropical surrounds and exceptional dining, wellness and leisure experiences, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the perfect base for exploring the spectacular Kimberley region.
For many travellers, Broome is the gateway to the wild grandeur of the Kimberley – a launch point for epic 4WD journeys along the legendary Gibb River Road, rugged outback tours and expedition cruises tracing the remote coastline. Whether you’re arriving dust-covered from the red dirt or preparing to venture deep into the region’s untamed landscapes, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa offers the perfect place to begin or end the adventure. The only fully integrated resort in Broome, the property unfolds along meandering pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens, past tranquil lily ponds and hand-carved timber sculptures that subtly guide guests towards reception.
Location
Let friendly staff help you book a camel ride on Cable Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA/ Matt Deakin)
Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa lies just steps from the famed Cable Beach, where the silhouettes of camels crossing the shoreline at sunset have become one of Australia’s most enduring tourism images. The only beachfront resort in Broome, it’s also just a few minutes’ drive to the centre of town, where guests can wander through Chinatown and peruse its pearl stores and galleries or catch a movie beneath the stars at the heritage-listed Sun Pictures.
The friendly team at the resort’s tour desk can also help tailor your stay, whether that’s an iconic camel ride along the beach, a visit to Willie Creek Pearl Farm to discover how the gems are harvested or a guided tour to see the ancient dinosaur footprints revealed among the rust-red rocks of Gantheaume Point at low tide.
Style and character
Walk into an eclectic blend of influences and eras.
Few resorts capture the essence of their surroundings quite like Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa. First opened in 1988, the resort is a celebration of Broome’s rich multicultural past, from its Japanese pearl divers to Chinese merchants. The result is an eclectic blend of influences and eras. The resort features wide timber verandahs, corrugated iron walls and tin roofs designed to temper the tropical climate. To keep it breezy, Broome’s signature lattice (a distinct painted timber lattice detailing iconic to the tropical architecture of the Kimberley region) has been used across the resort with two functions – allowing a breeze through while maintaining privacy.
Scattered throughout the manicured gardens is an impressive collection of rare Asian and international artefacts. Chinese bluestone lions stand sentinel at the entrance, while terracotta warrior horses, vermillion Japanese torii gates and traditional Shishi (lion-dog) statues lend an air of quiet grandeur. Fragrant with frangipani blossoms and shaded by century-old boab and mango trees, the grounds are also a haven for native wildlife. Birds provide a constant soundtrack, while wallabies and tiny lizards rustle through the foliage.
Rooms
Sleep in comfort and style.
The extensive accommodation options span studios, bungalows, club apartments, villas and suites. Family bungalows draw inspiration from the grand homes of Broome’s pearl masters, translating that heritage into generous layouts, high ceilings and verandahs that open to the gardens. Studios and villas are perfect for couples and solo stays, pairing soft coastal tones with private balconies or courtyards. While club apartments and suites are designed for longer stays, offering multiple bedrooms, kitchen facilities and seamless indoor-outdoor living.
Food and drink
Tuck into an Asian fusion menu at Kichi Kichi.
The dining scene at Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa reflects Broome’s position at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean and Asia, where coastal produce meets a tapestry of multicultural influences.
Contemporary Asian fusion dishes – from crisp fried pork belly and roast Peking duck breast to Burmese lamb curry – deliver bold, vibrant flavours at Kichi Kichi. While the handmade tortellini filled with pearl meat and prawn served at atmospheric Italian restaurant, Cichetti, is the kind of dish that you will remember long after the final bite. Elsewhere on the menu, find effortless flair across dishes like Wedge Island octopus, market fish crudo and silky goat’s milk panna cotta.
As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, Sunset Bar & Grill becomes the place to be. Here, guests gather over freshly shucked oysters, cured meat platters and buckets of sweet Exmouth prawns. Or, for a quieter evening in, guests can retreat to the comfort of their room and order from Cable Eats, the resort’s in-room dining service.
Pools
Relax by the adults-only Ocean Pool.
Two distinct pool settings invite guests to shape their day exactly as they please. Drift into the calm of the adults-only Ocean Pool, where attentive service delivers dishes such as grilled prawn skewers and salt-and-pepper calamari straight to your cabana or sunbed well into the afternoon.
The mood at the family-friendly Kimberley Pool – framed by a cascading waterfall, the heart of the resort’s recreational precinct – is decidedly more playful. Here, younger guests are catered for with a dedicated kids’ menu of familiar favourites including chicken nuggets, fish and chips and ham-and-cheese toasties, while parents can graze on more refined poolside fare, such as fried squid, soba noodle salad and gourmet burgers.
Chahoya Spa & Salon
Book a treatment at Chahoya Spa.
Chahoya Spa brings a refined sense of indulgence inspired by its Japanese name, meaning “pamper”, with signature treatments including the Kimberley Dreamtime ritual and Chahoya Pearl Massage designed to soothe tired bodies and quiet busy minds. There is also an on-site salon providing personalised cuts, colour services and restorative hair care, ensuring guests leave feeling polished and renewed.
Other facilities
Join a yoga class at the Buddha Sanctuary.
Wellness continues at the Buddha Sanctuary, a serene open-air pavilion just beyond the main resort grounds, where yoga classes are held six days a week amid ornamental gardens and a striking 3.5-metre hand-carved crystal Buddha statue. Beyond the sanctuary, the resort caters to every pace of stay, with a children’s playground, mini golf, tennis courts and a fully-equipped gym. Guests can also browse the resort’s boutique gift shop, home to Allure South Sea Pearls – the brand behind Broome’s first dedicated pearl boutique in Chinatown.