We tackled the beautiful canyons of Karijini in the Pilbara last year. Here he describes why it’s a must for outback adventurers.
UPDATE: As of January 2021, West Oz Active Adventure Tours made the difficult decision to close the business due to the impact of the global pandemic and are no longer offering tours.
1. What’s so special about the Karijini canyons?
Karijini is renowned for its older-than-animals geology and colours that feel like they have no place in one of the harshest environments on Earth. But what the vibrant image on this page doesn’t convey is the ancient, intangible energy – almost personality – that each of the gorges radiates. It’s like they’re trying to communicate with you.
Karijini sits in the heart of iron-ore country, which lends the landscape its rusty red blue (photo: Jonathan Cami).
2. Is it tough negotiating the gorges?
Many of the gorges, like Dales and Joffre, can be accessed by a (fairly energetic) walk down from their respective car parks. To go deeper (with canyoning operator West OZ Active) you will have to clamber, climb, abseil and swim (with a life jacket and inner-tube). You’ll need to be of reasonable fitness (or better), with no lingering injuries or morbid fears of heights or tight spaces.
Evenings above ground in Karijini (photo: Jonathan Cami).
3. How much time do you spend in the water?
Canyoning by its nature follows the natural water course so you’ll be in and out of streams, pools and creeks all day, albeit in a thick wetsuit and boots. You even get to abseil straight down a waterfall and slide (a few metres) off another.
Centuries-old paperbarks survive wild torrents every wet season (photo: Jonathan Cami).
4. Is there a cultural significance to this area?
Karijini has an intense cultural significance to the Banyjima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama peoples. The gorges acted as ancient meeting places and sheltered sacred sites so you’re encouraged to show respect; keep the noise down, don’t go where you shouldn’t and don’t remove anything.
The ochre magnificence of Joffre Gorge, Karijini National Park.
5. What natural history do you encounter?
The rock here is some of the oldest exposed anywhere in the world. Too old for animal fossils, but not for stromatolites, the oldest known fossils going, comprised of former towers of symbiotic microbes. Tackle Karijini’s canyons yourself.
From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.
Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.
From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.
Why Silversea?
Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.
Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.
Take a dip in the pool deck.
1. Koolama Bay
Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.
Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.
2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt
Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.
Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)
Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.
The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)
4. Horizontal Falls
Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.
With each tidal shift,the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)
5. Montgomery Reef
As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.
The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.
Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.
6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter
Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.
One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions, guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.
Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art
The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant
Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.
Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
