A first-timer’s guide to the Golden Outback, WA

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See firsthand how the diversity of the Golden Outback is unmatched.

The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state, stretching from the rugged red earth of Burringurrah/Mt Augustus to the powder-white sands of Esperance and the South Coast, and to the modern mining hub of Kalgoorlie in the historic Goldfields. With a landscape comprising rugged river valleys and ancient gorges that swallow the light, the Golden Outback offers rich pickings. And keep the region’s Traditional Owners in mind as you walk in their ancestor’s footsteps on an Indigenous-led tour of rock art believed to be up to 40,000 years old. It’s a landscape that is as dazzling as it is diverse. Here, discover the best of the Golden Outback.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback offers rich pickings. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Unique stays

Nallan Station

There is a range of accommodation choices at Nallan Station, from caravan sites to self-contained cottages, renovated shearers’ quarters and eco-friendly tents. Located 12 kilometres north-east of Cue along the Miners’ Pathway, the working farm is an ideal base for history buffs interested in the area’s gold-mining history. nallanstation.com

Merredin Treasury

Stay in the heart of the Wheatbelt in a faithfully restored Art Deco building that was Merredin’s bank in a former life. Built in 1928 and located on one of the town’s main streets, the Merredin Treasury has seven suites, as well as self-contained facilities designed for short-term and long- term stays. merredintreasury.com.au

The Jetty Resort

As the name suggests, this resort is located just a stone’s throw from the heritage-listed Tanker Jetty , which stretches out from the coast of Esperance. The resort has a range of different rooms to suit everyone from business travellers to families and is a one-minute walk to the beautifully frayed shoreline of Esperance.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Five top spots

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus is more than twice the size of Uluru. Laid out like a slumbering giant over the red earth, this soaring inselberg is about 715 metres high and visible in the shimmering distance for more than 160 kilometres.

Mt Augustus, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Mt Augustus looms large over a landscape stubbled with spinifex. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The Fitzgerald Biosphere

The Fitzgerald Biosphere is an internationally recognised reserve with more than 2500 varieties of stunning wildflower species. Hunker down in Hopetoun near Fitzgerald River National Park, located at its centre.

Cape Le Grand National Park

This glorious national park is a real headliner, with coastal scenery, imposing granite outcrops, inviting freshwater pools and a kaleidoscope of wildflower colour each year, all within just 45 minutes’ drive from Esperance. And then there’s the kangaroos, which roam freely along the oh-so-white sands of Lucky Bay looking all cute.

Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Lake Ballard

British sculptor Antony Gormley scanned the bodies of residents from Menzies to inform the shape of his 51 steel sculptures, which stand like sentinels guarding the salt plains of Lake Ballard. Follow the Golden Quest Discovery Trail to get to the Inside Australia exhibit.

Mundatharrda/Kennedy Range

The Indigenous Inggarda name for the Kennedy Range is Mundatharrda and it’s one of the most ancient landforms in Australia. Set up camp at the base of the stark sandstone cliffs so you can rise in the cool of the morning for a wilderness walk and see wildflowers in full bloom.

Where to eat

Taylor St Quarters

There’s nothing like a sundowner on the west coast of Australia and Esperance is all about just that. Sunset here catches the crowds as much for the views as the food. Try the tempura Shark Bay prawns, or fish tacos at Taylor St Quarters , which was the original Esperance Hospital and Nurses Quarters in another life.

Taylor St Quarters, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Taylor St Quarters has been given a new lease on life. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Walkers Hill Vineyard

The grass seems greener and the skies bluer at this award-winning winery located in the eastern Wheatbelt on the way to Wave Rock (Katter Kich), where you will want to take a selfie in the rolling sandstone barrel. Enjoy a few glasses of wine paired with a cheese platter or go for something more substantial such as smokey BBQ beef ribs or a chicken parmy.

Walkers Hill Vineyard, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Walkers Hill Vineyard is embroidered onto the Earth in the Wheatbelt.

Lot 39 Store + Cafe

This cute little space is your go-to for a bit of retail therapy in Goomalling. After vibing on quality homewares, you can pick up home-cooked meals and ar tisan condiments to take with you. Order coffee and a bowl of seasonal granola or a leek and chicken pie to go.

Grand Hotel, Kookynie

What could be more Golden Outback than a bevvie with Willie the Horse at the Grand Hotel in the town of Kookynie – population 13? This colourful, quirky establishment is the quintessential Goldfields’ pub, located on the Golden Quest Discovery Trail, and is a top spot for a cold beer and a hot meal.

The Grand Hotel, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Willie the Horse makes cameos at the Grand Hotel. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Top things to do

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail has been redeveloped into a multi-purpose walking, biking and horse-riding trail. Regardless of your mode of transport, the 15-kilometre stretch east from Darkan to Dardadine will steer you in a straight line past rolling green farmland and carpets of wildflowers in spring.

Explore goldrush towns

The town of Norseman was founded in 1894 when prospector Laurie Sinclair and his trusty steed Hardy Norseman literally stumbled across a nugget of gold. This led to Sinclair trying his luck at scouring the earth for more gold, which led to another gold rush town. Follow the Dundas Coach Road Heritage Trail between Norseman and Dundas where you will discover more treasures in the Great Western Woodlands.

The Golden Outback’s festivals

Time your visit to coincide with a major event such as the Gascoyne River Music Festival or the Mt Magnet Astro Rocks Fest so you can really fall into rhythm with the state’s vast red heart.

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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7 Kimberley experiences that need to be on your bucket list

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck
Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

​​Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift,  the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,  turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com