A neighbourhood guide to Leederville, WA

Once a teenage nightlife hotspot, then a hipster posing zone, Leederville has now settled into its skin as an affable urban village.

Running your eyes along Leederville’s bubbly cafe strip gives little indication of the layers of history beneath the market umbrellas and al fresco seating.

Tall eucalypts wrapped in fairy lights line the centre of Oxford Street – a jovial nod to its fun-loving atmosphere – while independent stores with characterful shop windows and parklets (car parking spaces transformed into upcycled cafe seating) embrace its sides.

Street art splashes across building walls: a barracuda mural envelops Kailis Bros Fish Market; a girl’s hot pink mane sweeps down the length of the brick wall outside Bunn Mee cafe; and giant hikers trek alongside the Luna Cinema.

A Leederville history lesson

Under all that is a history of wetlands and waterbirds covering a tribal landscape known as Boorloo. It was a bountiful hunting, fishing and gathering ground for the Noongar people, who used nearby Galup (Lake Monger) as a camping ground.

Things inevitably changed after European settlement in 1829 when William Leeder and John Monger took over much of the land.

The Leeder Hotel opened its doors in 1838, perhaps setting the scene for the suburb’s sociable future. As the population grew, so did the need for food. Enter Chinese market gardens, pegged out on the wetlands and lining Oxford Street where, today, restaurants, cafes and ice-cream shops meet similar needs.

Fast forward to the 1980s and Leederville, located in the city of Vincent, three kilometres outside of Perth, had become a shopping hotspot with rising house prices and, by the 1990s, the cafe strip was bustling.

In the 2000s, it morphed into a writhing mess of teens and 20-somethings partying the night away. When that hedonistic bubble burst, hipsters filled the space, poking horn-rimmed glasses and manicured moustaches into increasingly sophisticated cafes.

The last few years seems to have humbled them; now Leederville’s demographic is a visible mix of trendy couples, casual-chic families and relaxed mid-lifers.

Shopping in Leederville, WA — In the 1980s Leederville became a shopping hotspot.

Where to eat & drink

Will St.

With Bali closed to Perth, locals were thrilled when one of the holiday island’s most celebrated chef-restaurateurs set up shop in Leederville in 2021. Will St. ’s salmon-pink walls and eucalyptus green bar evoke the Kimberley, while its statement wildflower hangings call to the state’s Mid West, but its food and open-kitchen energy is decidedly mod-Asian. That said, native Australian flavours make their way in: pepperberry leaf enhances both a sticky-crisp short rib dish and the house must-have, smoked eel wrapped in betel leaf.

Naber+IIII

Pronounced ‘neighbour and four’ this neat-at-the- front, party-out-the-back venue came on the scene in summer 2022. It’s a two-for-one deal; start in the rear laneway courtyard, where an upbeat vibe pervades pastel-hued school chairs edging squat bar tables. Look up and spot the television antennae adorned with mini disco balls. Then continue to the brooding black-clad interior, where curious bites such as ‘cheeky pig on toast’ and ‘dog sauce’ with beans (tastes better than it sounds) are served with natural wines and bespoke cocktails.

Phat Lon

The heady fragrance of Vietnamese street cookery plunges into willing nostrils the moment you arrive at this 2022 restaurant opening. Former MasterChef star, the bubbly Jenny Lam, has put her mother in the kitchen and the family’s cultural heritage on the menu. It’s a hop, skip and a jump away from Lam’s hole-in-the-wall cafe, Bunn Mee, where lunch-goers queue for crusty rolls and steaming bowls of broth.

The Leederville Hotel

Spotted from anywhere in the neighbourhood thanks to a sparkly star crowning its corner tower, the Federation-style Leederville Hotel has had more costume changes than Madonna. Its most recent – and, we’d argue, best – makeover was in 2021, transforming the interiors into several hip new zones.

Leederville Hotel, Leederville, WA — The Federation-style Leederville Hotel has had more costume changes than Madonna. (Image: Shot by Thom)

Hidden out back is Servo, where glass and terrazzo meet whipped cod roe sprinkled with finger lime, and peri peri cauliflower. It lines Electric Lane, so named because the hotel was the first business to score electric lights in 1905.

Servo, The Leederville Hotel, WA — Find Servo hidden out back in The Leederville Hotel’s Electric Lane. (Image: Cubbage Photo)

Street side, a pocket bar pours a revolving line-up of small-batch WA beers. It’s called Sandgropers, after a native dune-loving insect and the nickname for West Australians. In the middle is a convivial umbrella-dotted yard bar with a ping-pong table and garage cubby house.

Where to shop

Hunter

There should be a warning sign above the doorway at this bijou women’s shoe, bag and jewellery boutique . The owner does indeed hunt for her coveted selection of leather and gems – we dare you to leave without a purchase. Pause at the travel-friendly Rollie shoe shelf before the glint of bold, boss-lady earrings by local designers Mountain and Moon catches your eye. Fawn over leather wallets by Status Anxiety and bags by Kompanero before turning to Ivylee cowboy boots.

Rohan Jewellers

You need to step into this glittering, 117-year-old corner store if you like to buy treats while on holiday, are into retail therapy or simply appreciate artisanal finery. Local craftsman, Rohan Milne moved in and opened his studio in 2021. He’s a devotee of traditional, made-by-hand techniques – his abilities were recognised when he was training under a master in Rome and was asked to craft cufflinks for Pope John Paul II. The designs you’ll gaze upon are all originals. Beware the temptation.

Rohan Jewellery, Leederville, WA — Appreciate artisanal finery at Rohan Jewellery. (Image: Kremer’s Photography)

The Re Store

Few visitors make it beyond Leederville’s colourful cafe strip, and it’s their loss. Stretch your pins because a few blocks north lies one of its oldest family-run shops. The Re Store is an Italian delicatessen where women wearing red polos and black aprons shave paper-thin smallgoods onto waxed paper. It’s famous for its ‘conti’ or continental creation, which is essentially an excuse to jam every kind of cured meat into one crusty roll.

Re store, Leederville, WA — It’s famous for its ‘conti’ or continental creation. (Image: Perth Video Productions)

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck — Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise — Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise — Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise. — Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift, the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide. — Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel, turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef — Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion — See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys — Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com