Bushrangers today, eh?

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Over a friendly meal with a wandering yarn-spinner, Peter Russell-Clarke learns that the days of the outback outlaw are far from over. They’ve just lowered their sights a little.

I often think about Mad Mac. Sean Macintosh of the Outback was one of those unforgettable rogues. Loveable, but . . . well, different. But then again so were (and still are) quite a few of the outback characters.

Bobby One Leg for instance. He couldn’t read, yet could recite the poem The Highwayman flawlessly. “The road was a ribbon of moonlight across the purple moor," he’d intone like an Aussie Laurence Olivier. “The highwayman came riding, riding up to the old inn door."

Then there was Charlie Chop Chop, the Chinese cook who could disguise anything under a wok full of cabbage and water chestnuts. There was Ron the Roo Shooter, who compiled an Aussie Outback Dictionary that he tried to have translated into Japanese in case the lads from Nippon decided to have another crack at taking over the joint. And there was Shirley Temple, the horse breaker. And Jumping Jill, the highway prostitute. They all have fascinating yarns to tell but, in truth, their stories pale into insignificance compared to the stories of their own lives.

But one of the most interesting characters I’ve ever come across was Perc. I didn’t believe the old bushy for a moment, but I had to admit he was entertaining. “My Dad’s great uncle was Ned Kelly’s cook," he once told me, nodding solemnly. “He was never given credit for keeping the Kelly boys healthy, but without old Claude keeping them regular, goodness knows what sort of mess they would’ve been in.

“Ya see, Ned and his gang couldn’t be stopping any old time for nature’s call, could they?" I nodded that I indeed agreed that they couldn’t. But I confess I wasn’t sure what he meant. “Imagine trying to squat with the weight of that armour draped over ya," Perc continued. I hoped he wasn’t going to detail what I now perceived were the regular functions he was alluding to.

“Of course, Claude the cook had designed his armour to be more functional than Ned’s," said Perc. “Instead of plough shields, his armour was his woodfired stove – one of them ones with doors for the ovens and firebox and such. He’d put his stove on whenever armour was needed, an’ when he wanted a pee he’d simply open the appropriate door and he was away. At mealtimes he discarded the stove, reassembled it, lit the fire and cooked their grub. As long as they didn’t have to move quickly, everything was hunky-dory."

 

I met Perc at a stopover on the Hume Highway just up the road from Holbrook in south central NSW. I was travelling through to Wagga, then planned to drive across to the Alice and up to Tennant Creek in my trusty motorhome. Perc was towing one of those collapsible tent-trailers with the bed that pops out the back. I’d stopped for a cup of green tea. Perc had stopped because he wanted to stop.

“I often drive around Ned’s old territory," Perc confided. “Even cook some of old Claude’s recipes. Ya know, Ned Kelly was a beekeeper at one stage. That’s why he moved around a lot. And, of course, why Claude used honey so much."

I confessed that I hadn’t known, but was intrigued – why did it mean Ned had to move from place to place?

“Well, he had to follow the honey flow, mate. Wherever the blossom was flowering, the bees needed to be right there and right on time, otherwise the bees starved and Ned got no honey."

“Okay," I said, pouring Perc a beer. “But if Claude wore his stove, surely all the doors were in the front. Which might be all right for No.1s, but what about No.2s? And what about his helmet? Don’t tell me he wore a saucepan; how would he see? If he’d had eyeholes, the saucepan would leak when being used for more conventional purposes."

“Claude’s cooking wasn’t conventional, mate," laughed Perc. “Far bloody from it. An’ ya see, Claude was always running away from danger, so the front of the stove was on his back region. He peed through the flu, which is at the back of the stove. An’ he didn’t need eyeholes in his helmet because, if any threat presented itself, he shut his eyes tight and took off."

I thought all that through as I poured us both another beer. “Have ya got a red?" asked Perc shyly. “Shiraz f’preference. I’m not big on Pinot Noir. More a sheilas’ drink, eh?"

By now the sun had danced down behind red river gums, which stood sentinel at the end of a billabong in a paddock between us and the river. I’d made some tabouli, which I was thinking of having with a few falafel and hummus. “Would you like to join me?" I asked Perc.

“Bloody oath, mate, whatever it is. An’ I’ve got a coupla chops and some spuds. Ned loved lamb – it was plentiful from over any fence – and spuds were a must for a growing Irish lad."

And so it happened. The next day we parted after muesli for me and bacon and eggs for Perc. I took my time tidying and stowing away, all the while grinning over Perc and his Kelly yarns. But as I pulled out of the stopover, a police car drew alongside and indicated that I stop. I did.

“G’day, mate," growled a broad-shouldered copper. “Have you seen a little bloke driving an old Holden Ute towing a campervan?"

“What’s he done?" I asked.

“He’s like a bloody gypsy, the little bugger. Nicks hubcaps and spare wheels and anything else not tied down. I see you’ve got no hubcaps, so I thought you might’ve met up with him."

 

It was years later that I read about Perc’s death. I was camping by a billabong at Talmalmo, just down from Jingellic. I was reading the local paper. Perc had been arrested for robbery – convicted – but died of a heart attack on his way to the lock-up. Unlike Ned, he beat the gallows.

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The ultimate 8-day Brisbane to Port Douglas road trip itinerary

Explore some of Australia’s most stunning coastlines on this epic route.

This scenic, 1800-kilometre Brisbane to Port Douglas road trip takes in some of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes, from the wildlife on Bribie Island to the rainforests of Far North Queensland. Our advice? Slow it down, take your time and really get to know this part of Australia.

Day 1: Brisbane to Noosa

Wake up in the luxurious Sofitel Brisbane Central , enjoy a hot buffet breakfast and a swim in the outdoor pool before hitting the road to travel north. Take the exit to Bribie Island to view the abundant wildlife.

aerial view of bribie island
Enjoy the beauty and animals of Bribie Island. (Image: TEQ)

In the afternoon, check into Peppers Noosa Resort & Villas hidden near Noosa National Park and spend the afternoon relaxing at the luxury Aqua Day Spa. Daredevils can book a seat on an Ocean View Helicopters tour and experience the adrenaline of exploring the Glasshouse Mountains from the air.

Before dinner, head to the Original Eumundi Markets just 25 minutes away or explore the nearby trails in the national park. For dinner, book a table at Park & Cove located just near your hotel and feast on a locally-sourced menu that changes with the seasons.

table spread at Park & Cove Novotel Sunshine Coast
Refuel at Park & Cove.

Day 2: Noosa to Bundaberg

Wake up to sounds of the rainforest outside your window and take the opportunity for a quick swim before you dive into a freshly cooked buffet breakfast at Park & Cove. After breakfast and an expertly brewed coffee, stroll down the hill and spend the morning shopping along Hastings Street in the various boutiques, or hire a kayak or surfboard and conquer the waves.

After lunch, head north for the three-hour drive to historic Bundaberg . If you feel like feeding a kangaroo or wallaby, visit the Fraser Coast Wildlife Sanctuary . Once in Bundy, head to Spitter’s Farm just outside of town. This 160-acre property offers a unique experience in their deluxe glamping safari tents, where you can listen to the cows mooing as the sun sets.

baby kangaroo at australian wildlife Sanctuary
Say hello to the adorable creatures of Fraser Coast Wildlife Sanctuary. (Image: Jewels Lynch)

Day 3: Bundaberg to Rockhampton

Before getting back on the road, take time to visit the many museums, and, of course, the famous Bundaberg Rum Distillery for a tour. Then head to the Beef Capital of Australia, Rockhampton.

Although, ‘Rocky’ is surrounded by beef cattle farms, your first stop should be to the impressive Rockhampton Museum of Art , which features an art collection valued at over $16 million. Rest your head at the centrally-located Mercure Rockhampton overlooking the mighty Fitzroy River. Grab a quick swim in their outdoor pool before enjoying a steak at their in-house restaurant.

Rockhampton Museum of Art
Take it all in at Rockhampton Museum of Art. (Image: TEQ)

Day 4: Rockhampton to Mackay

Grab a strong coffee at your hotel and drive the short distance to the nearby Capricorn Caves for a morning tour of these natural limestone beauties. Then hit the road for the four-hour drive to Mackay.

Reward yourself with a swim in the large, resort-style pool at the Mantra Mackay . Overlooking the marina, it’s the perfect location from which to explore the city, before enjoying a sundowner and dinner at the popular Latitude 21 on the hotel terrace.

woman exploring the Capricorn Caves in queensland
Explore the Capricorn Caves. (Image: TEQ)

Day 6: Mackay to Townsville

Grab your breakfast to go, then head just out of town to Finch Hatton Gorge. Here, spend the morning ziplining 25 metres above the rainforest floor with Forest Flying . Head to Airlie Beach for lunch and a swim in the famous Airlie Beach Lagoon , before heading north to Townsville.

Hop on a 20-minute ferry – they leave regularly – and check into the stunning Peppers Blue on Blue Resort . Spend the evening swimming in their two pools with views across the private marina to Mount Cook National Park, before feasting on fresh seafood at their on-site restaurant, Boardwalk Restaurant and Bar.

aerial view of beach at Airlie Beach queensland
Dive into the crystal clear waters around Airlie Beach. (Image: TEQ)

Day 7: Townsville to Cairns

After a morning swim on one of Magnetic Island’s beautiful beaches, hop back on the ferry and travel north to the sleepy Mission Beach for lunch. You’ll be sandwiched by rainforest on one side, and the beach on the other.

Continue on to Cairns and check in at the centrally-located Novotel Cairns Oasis, where the lagoon-style pool and swim-up bar alone is worth the visit. Or continue north for 25 minutes to the coastal village of Palm Cove.

Once there it’s a tough choice between the luxurious, five-star Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple, or the beautifully designed Peppers Beach Club and Spa Palm Cove , where the pool has its very own beach.

two people in deck chairs by Novotel Cairns Oasis' lagoon-style pool
Relax by Novotel Cairns Oasis’ lagoon-style pool.

Day 8: To Port Douglas

No matter where you spent the night, your journey to Port Douglas will be one of the most scenic road trips you’ll ever experience. Following the coastline, travel past champagne-coloured beaches, offshore islands and submerged reefs, before rolling into town at Port Douglas.

Although you’ll be spoilt for choice with hotels, two of the best are Peppers Beach Club Port Douglas, which is closer to town (think stunning pool and walking distance to Macrossan Street) and the famous, five-star Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa , located a little further down the beach. If the 3000-metre-squared lagoon-style pool isn’t enough at this hotel, you’ll also find the exclusive Vie Spa and popular restaurant, Aluco Restaurant & Bar , widely known as being one of the finest restaurants in Port Douglas.

aerial view of pool at Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple
Revive from road-tripping in one of the best pools in Port Douglas.

 Start planning your Queensland adventure at all.com.