Bushrangers today, eh?

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Over a friendly meal with a wandering yarn-spinner, Peter Russell-Clarke learns that the days of the outback outlaw are far from over. They’ve just lowered their sights a little.

I often think about Mad Mac. Sean Macintosh of the Outback was one of those unforgettable rogues. Loveable, but . . . well, different. But then again so were (and still are) quite a few of the outback characters.

Bobby One Leg for instance. He couldn’t read, yet could recite the poem The Highwayman flawlessly. “The road was a ribbon of moonlight across the purple moor," he’d intone like an Aussie Laurence Olivier. “The highwayman came riding, riding up to the old inn door."

Then there was Charlie Chop Chop, the Chinese cook who could disguise anything under a wok full of cabbage and water chestnuts. There was Ron the Roo Shooter, who compiled an Aussie Outback Dictionary that he tried to have translated into Japanese in case the lads from Nippon decided to have another crack at taking over the joint. And there was Shirley Temple, the horse breaker. And Jumping Jill, the highway prostitute. They all have fascinating yarns to tell but, in truth, their stories pale into insignificance compared to the stories of their own lives.

But one of the most interesting characters I’ve ever come across was Perc. I didn’t believe the old bushy for a moment, but I had to admit he was entertaining. “My Dad’s great uncle was Ned Kelly’s cook," he once told me, nodding solemnly. “He was never given credit for keeping the Kelly boys healthy, but without old Claude keeping them regular, goodness knows what sort of mess they would’ve been in.

“Ya see, Ned and his gang couldn’t be stopping any old time for nature’s call, could they?" I nodded that I indeed agreed that they couldn’t. But I confess I wasn’t sure what he meant. “Imagine trying to squat with the weight of that armour draped over ya," Perc continued. I hoped he wasn’t going to detail what I now perceived were the regular functions he was alluding to.

“Of course, Claude the cook had designed his armour to be more functional than Ned’s," said Perc. “Instead of plough shields, his armour was his woodfired stove – one of them ones with doors for the ovens and firebox and such. He’d put his stove on whenever armour was needed, an’ when he wanted a pee he’d simply open the appropriate door and he was away. At mealtimes he discarded the stove, reassembled it, lit the fire and cooked their grub. As long as they didn’t have to move quickly, everything was hunky-dory."

 

I met Perc at a stopover on the Hume Highway just up the road from Holbrook in south central NSW. I was travelling through to Wagga, then planned to drive across to the Alice and up to Tennant Creek in my trusty motorhome. Perc was towing one of those collapsible tent-trailers with the bed that pops out the back. I’d stopped for a cup of green tea. Perc had stopped because he wanted to stop.

“I often drive around Ned’s old territory," Perc confided. “Even cook some of old Claude’s recipes. Ya know, Ned Kelly was a beekeeper at one stage. That’s why he moved around a lot. And, of course, why Claude used honey so much."

I confessed that I hadn’t known, but was intrigued – why did it mean Ned had to move from place to place?

“Well, he had to follow the honey flow, mate. Wherever the blossom was flowering, the bees needed to be right there and right on time, otherwise the bees starved and Ned got no honey."

“Okay," I said, pouring Perc a beer. “But if Claude wore his stove, surely all the doors were in the front. Which might be all right for No.1s, but what about No.2s? And what about his helmet? Don’t tell me he wore a saucepan; how would he see? If he’d had eyeholes, the saucepan would leak when being used for more conventional purposes."

“Claude’s cooking wasn’t conventional, mate," laughed Perc. “Far bloody from it. An’ ya see, Claude was always running away from danger, so the front of the stove was on his back region. He peed through the flu, which is at the back of the stove. An’ he didn’t need eyeholes in his helmet because, if any threat presented itself, he shut his eyes tight and took off."

I thought all that through as I poured us both another beer. “Have ya got a red?" asked Perc shyly. “Shiraz f’preference. I’m not big on Pinot Noir. More a sheilas’ drink, eh?"

By now the sun had danced down behind red river gums, which stood sentinel at the end of a billabong in a paddock between us and the river. I’d made some tabouli, which I was thinking of having with a few falafel and hummus. “Would you like to join me?" I asked Perc.

“Bloody oath, mate, whatever it is. An’ I’ve got a coupla chops and some spuds. Ned loved lamb – it was plentiful from over any fence – and spuds were a must for a growing Irish lad."

And so it happened. The next day we parted after muesli for me and bacon and eggs for Perc. I took my time tidying and stowing away, all the while grinning over Perc and his Kelly yarns. But as I pulled out of the stopover, a police car drew alongside and indicated that I stop. I did.

“G’day, mate," growled a broad-shouldered copper. “Have you seen a little bloke driving an old Holden Ute towing a campervan?"

“What’s he done?" I asked.

“He’s like a bloody gypsy, the little bugger. Nicks hubcaps and spare wheels and anything else not tied down. I see you’ve got no hubcaps, so I thought you might’ve met up with him."

 

It was years later that I read about Perc’s death. I was camping by a billabong at Talmalmo, just down from Jingellic. I was reading the local paper. Perc had been arrested for robbery – convicted – but died of a heart attack on his way to the lock-up. Unlike Ned, he beat the gallows.

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8 experiences that make Moreton Bay the best getaway

From the moment you arrive in Moreton Bay, stunning natural vistas, fresh and tasty dining, history and more invite you to stay and play.

Untouched national park, mirror-like lagoons and endless stretches of beaches all make Moreton Bay experiences feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret Queenslanders collectively vowed not to tell. Yet it’s easily accessible. Explore further and discover hinterland farms, ancient rainforest, fresh seafood and more: there’s something on offer for every pace, interest and generation.

Just 20 minutes from Brisbane Airport, it’s hard to believe how underrated this Queensland getaway is. Here’s your ultimate guide to rediscover play with unmissable experiences in Moreton Bay.

1. G’Day Adventure Tours, Bribie Island

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience
Explore Bribie Island with G’Day Adventure Tours.

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience should be your first agenda item in Moreton Bay. Take a 4WD journey through the sandy tracks of Bribie Island’s beaches to the still, glassy waters of the island’s lagoons. Glide over perfect replicas of paperbarks and fluffy blue clouds mirrored in the lagoon waters in your kayak. Listen as native birdsong echoes around you.

Then, it’s on to Fort Bribie. During the Second World War, these concrete bunkers – now slowly being enveloped by the dunes – were the last line of defence for Moreton Bay.

End the day with a sun-dappled beach picnic of locally caught Queensland prawns and famous Moreton Bay bugs. As you head home, watch the dolphins playfully dart in and out of the surf.

2. Morgan’s Seafood at Scarborough

Morgan’s Seafood
It doesn’t get fresher than Morgan’s Seafood. (Image: Ezra Patchett)

Right on the Scarborough Boat Harbour, you’ll find Morgan’s Seafood . Between the luxury yachts, you’ll also spot trawlers and fishermen delivering their day’s catch right to Morgan’s. The family-owned and operated spot is one of the best places to try the region’s eponymous Moreton Bay bug. Or, sample more of the area’s direct-from-the-boat seafood fresh at their oyster and sushi bar. If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with a day they’ve caught tuna.

Picture fish caught that day, prepared and then served to you as fresh sashimi as the sun sets over the unique silhouette of the Glasshouse Mountains.

3. Woorim Beach, Bribie Island

woorim beach bribie island
Hang 10, or relax, on Woorim Beach.

On Bribie’s eastern coastline, you’ll find Woorim Beach : aka the closest surf beach to Brisbane. Find a place on the sand by the patrolled area or wander further south to find a quiet spot and while the day away between the shaded dunes, the pages of your book and the peaceful sound of rolling waves.

Ask any local where to grab lunch, and they’ll direct you to Bribie Island Surf Club Bistro . Tuck into a fresh, local seafood platter, just metres from the beach.

4. D’Aguilar National Park

D’Aguilar National Park
Admire the landscapes of D’Aguilar National Park.

D’Aguilar National Park is a 40,000-hectare slice of greenery that stretches from urban Brisbane right up to Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival). The vast expanse of park is home to ancient rainforests, eucalypt forests and shaded swimming spots hidden within gorges and under waterfalls. The area is significant for the Jinibara and Turrbal people, with ceremonial bora rings and dreaming trails all found within the park.

Carve out some time in your itinerary to explore the park’s many trails. The Maiala day-use area is the perfect starting point for walks for all levels of ability.

5. Arcade Wine Bar

arcade wine bar moreton bay
Sit down to a menu inspired by Italy.

Opposite the Redcliffe Jetty and down a laneway, you’ll find an unassuming wine bar. Venture inside and quickly fall in love with Arcade Wine Bar , one of the region’s most beloved local haunts.

Owners Danilo and Matt have a combined 50 years of sommelier experience, which they have poured into the menu, styling and wine list. More than just a hole-in-the-wall wine bar, Arcade Wine is an enoteca (a wine repository), whose walls are lined with bottles upon bottles of Italian wine varietals from every corner of Italy.

Settle in with a wine and work your way through the menu inspired by Danilo’s native Italy: traditional meatballs, their quick-to-sell-out terrine, or a selection of Italian cheeses, charcuterie and arancini.

6. Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail

Away from the ocean, tucked in the hinterland, is the Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail . Perfect for cyclists or walkers, the trail was built to showcase the history of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail corridor (last operating in 1964) and makes for the perfect family day out. The trail runs for 10.5km and connects Wamuran and Caboolture via an accessible path.

Pass through former railroad, bridges and shaded bushland as you cut from A to B. Plus, visit in winter for a detour along the way to one of the many pick-your-own strawberry farms.

7. Farm Visits

Beaches, mountains and history make an enticing combination. But Moreton Bay also brings hinterland, family-friendly farms to the table. Trevena Glen is one of the area’s most loved, with bunnies, ponies, sheep, alpacas (and more) available to visit for the kids. For the adults, book a horse-riding session and be treated to a grazing platter as you watch the sun set over the mountains of D’Aguilar National Park.

At White Ridge Farm , find camels, putt-putt, train and tractor rides and all kinds of animals. The entire farm is paved, making it accessible for all.

8. Miss Sprinkles

Miss Sprinkles Gelato moreton bay
Pick your scoop at Miss Sprinkles Gelato.

An ice cream at the beach is one of life’s most perfect pleasures. While in town, stop by Miss Sprinkles for the locals’ pick of homemade gelato on the Scarborough foreshore.

The gelato here is made the authentic Italian way and scooped up just across from the beach. Or, settle in at their kitschy pink wooden tables for traditional gelato in the sunshine.  Aside from the homemade gelato, you’ll also find tarts, pies and even doggie gelato.

To start planning your Moreton Bay trip, or for more information, head to visitmoretonbay.com.au.