Ken Duncan’s Panorama: Dipsticks of the Outback

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An outraged Ken Duncan prepares to wage war on a growing threat to the pristine nature of our precious outback icons: idiots with spray cans, textas and – sometimes – chainsaws. Dipsticks of the Outback, you have been warned . . .

There’s no better feeling than getting in your car and heading off into the bush for an adventure. When you hit the road it doesn’t matter what you’ve left behind or forgotten to do; you’ll deal with it. The cries of life’s urgency dwindle with the kilometres travelled and you begin to unwind as the view ahead opens to endless horizons. Yes! Going bush is like a magic formula – as the odometer goes up, the stress comes down.

So what is it about the outback that helps us unwind? I believe it’s the space, and in Australia we have plenty of it. That vastness helps you put your life into perspective. It gives you a chance to empty your in-tray. It’s an opportunity to clear your head, breathe fresh air and relax.

We’re blessed to live in such a diverse country and I believe our outback is one of our greatest medicinal treasures. It’s far more than red dirt and desert. It’s hard for me to imagine how travelling through Australia’s open country could not positively change any person. Lately, though, I’ve started to realise that there’s a strange breed of yobbo that feels the outback is there for them to trash and leave their branding on. They don’t allow the bush to wash over them – they want to leave their mark on it instead.

These people feel a need to leave their names emblazoned on anything they can, as though they’re some big explorer whose name will ring out for posterity. They’re like dogs, leaving their scent to mark their territory without realising what dipsticks they are. I call them “dipsticks", as a dipstick is used to check the level of something – and these sorts of people must have very low levels of brain activity. They need to have the paddles of life turned up to full power and applied to their heads.

As you can probably tell, this kind of graffiti is really starting to get under my skin. People (and I use the word loosely) have spray-painted their names on The Devil’s Marbles and all sorts of outback icons. We as Australian travellers need to take a stand, as it’s getting out of hand. This is our backyard. We need to start facing up to the vandals who do these things and tell them they’re dipsticks who need to get a life and show some respect. As a photographer, I’m at a loss as to why people feel the need to deface things. Some recent examples have finally tipped me over the edge. It’s time to really try and bring this epidemic to light and deal with it. We need to turn the tide of this disease.

Near Cameron’s Corner, where the NSW, Qld and SA borders meet, there’s an old yellow double-decker bus that was used as an out-camp for cattle workers, called Jack Camp. Talk about the last bus stop. When I first saw it, there was no graffiti – but over the years dipsticks have felt the need to add their names. While standing there recently, ready to take a new photo of the bus, I was pondering the worst of the fresh graffiti, a scrawled name: “Wishbone". I was thinking, “What would possess someone to do that?" And guess what? I got my answer. At that very moment, a guy pulled up in his Ute with the big aerials, driving lights, bull bar and fluffy dice on the rear-view mirror, and jumped out with his girlfriend. He headed over to the bus and said proudly, “Look, darling, there’s my name. Wishbone. I did that – isn’t it great?" His girlfriend just giggled nervously, not really knowing what to say. They were both right near me and I overheard this profound dialogue. I couldn’t believe I had actually now met the owner of the graffiti.

Wishbone looked over at me, clearly so proud of his ability to spell his name, and announced once more, “That’s me," awaiting my approval.

I like to be as friendly as I can, but I just looked at him and said: “If you did that, then you are a dipstick. Why did you do it?" The poor fellow just looked at me with a vacant stare – obviously not the sharpest tool in the shed.

My latest run-in with graffiti is courtesy of a guy called Gaz, in Victoria’s High Country in Alpine National Park. This is the land of legends, the High Country cattlemen and the Man from Snowy River. It’s part of our history. I was looking for new High Country huts and found Howitt Hut – and there, on the door, a person by the name of Gaz had spray-painted his name. I put Gaz up there as the King of the Dipsticks. What was he thinking with this effort?

 

Hundreds of visitors have written their names on the walls of the hut over the years. They have no right to (unless they were a real part of its history) and it has gotten out of hand. In some places the walls are so crammed with writing that there’s not a spare space to be seen!

 

I then went to look at another place in the same area called Miller Hut. When I got there, again Gaz had beaten me. This time he really outdid himself. He’d used a chainsaw to write his name in letters 30cm high on the old log walls of the hut. I could not believe anyone could be so insensitive. How could he think this was normal behaviour? How many beers did Gaz have to come up with this dumb idea? Where were his friends, who should’ve told him what a dipstick he’d be if he did something as stupid as defacing a part of our Australian history? People like Gaz don’t travel alone; they usually like an audience.

Would you want to invite this guy to your place for dinner? Imagine it: while you’re in the kitchen preparing the meal, Gaz gets out his chainsaw and carves his name in your walls, because he wants to be part of your history. Maybe he could even do it as a parting gesture on your fence. I’d be less than impressed if Gaz left his calling card in my home – and he would certainly be history.

The saddest part is that Gaz is not alone. When I started looking closer, I saw that others had used their chainsaws on the old wood of the High Country huts. There was Max, and Alan, and the list goes on. Shame on you all. I hope someone who knows you sees this article and lets you know you are now in the Dipsticks Hall of Fame. You are dumb enough to add your own names to it. But be real brave next time, dipsticks, and try writing it on a park ranger. That will probably put you on the road to healing.

We all want to enjoy our outback adventure and the great space and freedom we have. We do not want to be reminded of the self-indulgence of humanity. It’s not meant to be “look at me"; it’s meant to be look at the scenery. Yes, it’s my space, it’s yours, it’s our children’s – but it’s not an advertising space for dipsticks.

On a positive note, thank God it’s not too late and the world has so many beautiful people who do the right thing. We all just need to make sure we stand up to the Gazzes and give them a hand to see themselves – even if they do have a chainsaw.

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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park , just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole , open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

The Tiwi Islands , a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

4. Dine in Darwin

Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets , Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets .

Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

A bowl of Laksa.
Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

5. Up close with Uluṟu

The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

6. Drive the Red Centre Way

From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa . This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap , Standley Chasm , Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen .

Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com