Ken Duncan’s Panorama: Dipsticks of the Outback

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An outraged Ken Duncan prepares to wage war on a growing threat to the pristine nature of our precious outback icons: idiots with spray cans, textas and – sometimes – chainsaws. Dipsticks of the Outback, you have been warned . . .

There’s no better feeling than getting in your car and heading off into the bush for an adventure. When you hit the road it doesn’t matter what you’ve left behind or forgotten to do; you’ll deal with it. The cries of life’s urgency dwindle with the kilometres travelled and you begin to unwind as the view ahead opens to endless horizons. Yes! Going bush is like a magic formula – as the odometer goes up, the stress comes down.

So what is it about the outback that helps us unwind? I believe it’s the space, and in Australia we have plenty of it. That vastness helps you put your life into perspective. It gives you a chance to empty your in-tray. It’s an opportunity to clear your head, breathe fresh air and relax.

We’re blessed to live in such a diverse country and I believe our outback is one of our greatest medicinal treasures. It’s far more than red dirt and desert. It’s hard for me to imagine how travelling through Australia’s open country could not positively change any person. Lately, though, I’ve started to realise that there’s a strange breed of yobbo that feels the outback is there for them to trash and leave their branding on. They don’t allow the bush to wash over them – they want to leave their mark on it instead.

These people feel a need to leave their names emblazoned on anything they can, as though they’re some big explorer whose name will ring out for posterity. They’re like dogs, leaving their scent to mark their territory without realising what dipsticks they are. I call them “dipsticks", as a dipstick is used to check the level of something – and these sorts of people must have very low levels of brain activity. They need to have the paddles of life turned up to full power and applied to their heads.

As you can probably tell, this kind of graffiti is really starting to get under my skin. People (and I use the word loosely) have spray-painted their names on The Devil’s Marbles and all sorts of outback icons. We as Australian travellers need to take a stand, as it’s getting out of hand. This is our backyard. We need to start facing up to the vandals who do these things and tell them they’re dipsticks who need to get a life and show some respect. As a photographer, I’m at a loss as to why people feel the need to deface things. Some recent examples have finally tipped me over the edge. It’s time to really try and bring this epidemic to light and deal with it. We need to turn the tide of this disease.

Near Cameron’s Corner, where the NSW, Qld and SA borders meet, there’s an old yellow double-decker bus that was used as an out-camp for cattle workers, called Jack Camp. Talk about the last bus stop. When I first saw it, there was no graffiti – but over the years dipsticks have felt the need to add their names. While standing there recently, ready to take a new photo of the bus, I was pondering the worst of the fresh graffiti, a scrawled name: “Wishbone". I was thinking, “What would possess someone to do that?" And guess what? I got my answer. At that very moment, a guy pulled up in his Ute with the big aerials, driving lights, bull bar and fluffy dice on the rear-view mirror, and jumped out with his girlfriend. He headed over to the bus and said proudly, “Look, darling, there’s my name. Wishbone. I did that – isn’t it great?" His girlfriend just giggled nervously, not really knowing what to say. They were both right near me and I overheard this profound dialogue. I couldn’t believe I had actually now met the owner of the graffiti.

Wishbone looked over at me, clearly so proud of his ability to spell his name, and announced once more, “That’s me," awaiting my approval.

I like to be as friendly as I can, but I just looked at him and said: “If you did that, then you are a dipstick. Why did you do it?" The poor fellow just looked at me with a vacant stare – obviously not the sharpest tool in the shed.

My latest run-in with graffiti is courtesy of a guy called Gaz, in Victoria’s High Country in Alpine National Park. This is the land of legends, the High Country cattlemen and the Man from Snowy River. It’s part of our history. I was looking for new High Country huts and found Howitt Hut – and there, on the door, a person by the name of Gaz had spray-painted his name. I put Gaz up there as the King of the Dipsticks. What was he thinking with this effort?

 

Hundreds of visitors have written their names on the walls of the hut over the years. They have no right to (unless they were a real part of its history) and it has gotten out of hand. In some places the walls are so crammed with writing that there’s not a spare space to be seen!

 

I then went to look at another place in the same area called Miller Hut. When I got there, again Gaz had beaten me. This time he really outdid himself. He’d used a chainsaw to write his name in letters 30cm high on the old log walls of the hut. I could not believe anyone could be so insensitive. How could he think this was normal behaviour? How many beers did Gaz have to come up with this dumb idea? Where were his friends, who should’ve told him what a dipstick he’d be if he did something as stupid as defacing a part of our Australian history? People like Gaz don’t travel alone; they usually like an audience.

Would you want to invite this guy to your place for dinner? Imagine it: while you’re in the kitchen preparing the meal, Gaz gets out his chainsaw and carves his name in your walls, because he wants to be part of your history. Maybe he could even do it as a parting gesture on your fence. I’d be less than impressed if Gaz left his calling card in my home – and he would certainly be history.

The saddest part is that Gaz is not alone. When I started looking closer, I saw that others had used their chainsaws on the old wood of the High Country huts. There was Max, and Alan, and the list goes on. Shame on you all. I hope someone who knows you sees this article and lets you know you are now in the Dipsticks Hall of Fame. You are dumb enough to add your own names to it. But be real brave next time, dipsticks, and try writing it on a park ranger. That will probably put you on the road to healing.

We all want to enjoy our outback adventure and the great space and freedom we have. We do not want to be reminded of the self-indulgence of humanity. It’s not meant to be “look at me"; it’s meant to be look at the scenery. Yes, it’s my space, it’s yours, it’s our children’s – but it’s not an advertising space for dipsticks.

On a positive note, thank God it’s not too late and the world has so many beautiful people who do the right thing. We all just need to make sure we stand up to the Gazzes and give them a hand to see themselves – even if they do have a chainsaw.

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8 ways to discover a new side of Port Stephens

Aussies might think they know what Port Stephens is all about – but it’s time to take another look.

You might’ve driven through this NSW coast town. Maybe even stopped for fish and chips or a quick dip. But spend a long weekend in the new Port Stephens , and you’ll seriously regret not doing it sooner. We’re talking treks across beaches, reef dives and up-close time with rescued koalas.

All in all? It only takes a day before you see Port Stephens in a whole new light, and not much longer until it’s locked in as your favourite family destination.

1. Stockton Sand Dunes

Port Stephens incredible Stockton Sand Dunes are the largest moving sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere. They shift like an endless magic trick across the Worimi Conservation Lands , a 4200-hectare coastal co-managed by the Traditional Owners.

Tear over them in a 4WD. Rev through valleys soft as melting ice cream on a quad. Carve down 30-metre slopes on a sandboard. However you choose to cross them, you’re guaranteed a seriously wild ride.

Four rugged 4WDs kick up trails of golden dust as they charge across the sweeping desert landscape.
Chase thrills across shifting sands. (Image: Destination NSW)

2. Scale Tomaree Head Summit Walk

A short climb through bushland opens up to the coastal drama of Tomaree Head . Spot Zenith, Wreck and Box Beaches. See the Fingal Island lighthouse and offshore rookeries where Australia’s rarest seabird, the Gould’s petrel, nests.

History buffs can’t miss the WWII gun emplacements. And if you’re hiking between May and November, bring binoculars. Travelling whales might just be breaching below.

Friends enjoying a scenic walk along the Tomaree Head Summit Walk in Tomaree National Park, Port Stephens.
Climb Tomaree Head for jaw-dropping coastal views. (Image: Destination NSW)

3. Watch out for whales

You’ve seen the spouts of migrating humpbacks and southern right whales from shore. Set sail from Nelson Bay to see them up close. Cruise straight into the action, with tail-slaps, barrel rolls and all.

And they’ve got competition from the local show-offs. Port Stephens bottlenose dolphins leap and play. Some tours even spot pudgy fur seals, spending lazy days soaking up the sun on Cabbage Tree Island.

A whale’s tail on the sea’s surface.
Watch for ocean tails. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary

Pop into the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary  to learn about the rescued koalas who climb, nap, snack and heal in this natural patch of bushland. Wander the immersive Sanctuary Story Walk to discover more about their habits, then head to the SKYwalk – a treetop platform constructed for spotting these eucalyptus-loving locals. Peek into the hospital’s viewing window, where sick or injured koalas may be resting in their recovery enclosures.

Not enough time around these adorable marsupials? Stay overnight in silk-lined glamping tents.

Koala sleeping in a tree at Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary, One Mile
See koalas in their natural habitat. (Image: Destination NSW)

5. Diving Port Stephens

Port Stephens has some of NSW’s best dive spots. At Fly Point, float through sponge gardens and coral castles thick with nudibranchs (AKA sea slugs). Halifax Park has blue gropers and crimson-banded wrasse, while Shoal Bay’s seagrass meadows hide pipefish, cuttlefish and octopus.

Accessible only by boat, Broughton Island is home to a vast array of marine (and bird) life. Snorkel with blue devilfish and stingrays at sites like The Looking Glass and North Rock. More experienced divers can head out with one of the many PADI-certified operators.

At nearby Cabbage Tree Island, expect to see shaggy-faced wobbegongs cruising along.

A couple suited up and ready to dive into adventure.
Suit up and dive into Port Stephens’ vibrant marine life. (Image: Destination NSW)

6. Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters

Not quite ready to dive in? Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters is the perfect way to spot local marine life without getting too deep. But there’s no obnoxious glass tank tapping here. Instead, this interactive aquarium allows guests to wade into natural-style lagoons that mimic the real thing.

Gently pat Port Jackson and bamboo sharks, hand-feed rays, and feel their sandpapery skin with your fingertips. It is all under expert guidance. If you want to go deeper, pop on a wetsuit and swim alongside tawny nurse sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and zebra sharks in the lagoon.

Family enjoying an animal feeding experience at Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters, Anna Bay.
Meet the ocean’s friendliest faces at Irukandji. (Image: Destination NSW)

7. Fish the estuaries

Fishing fanatics will fall for Port Stephens hook, line and sinker. Here, one of the largest estuary systems in the whole state sees tidal rivers and mangrove ecosystems. Waterfronts are thick with oysters, and residential fish that might include anything from bream, whiting and flathead, to blue swimmer crabs, kingfish and longtail tuna.

If you prefer to choose your own adventure and fish offshore, you can hire a boat from one of the marinas and set your own course.

three men fishing on a boat in port stephens
Join a tour or chart your own fishing trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

8. Taste new Port Stephens flavours

With plenty of activity to fill your days, refuelling on delectable cuisine becomes equally important. And Port Stephens answers the call.

Pop into Holbert’s Oyster Farm for fresh-farmed Port Stephens rock oysters and Pacific oysters, Australian king and tiger prawns, as well as a variety of tasty sauces to try them with.

Take a group to Atmos for an authentic Greek experience over large shared dishes and Greek-inspired cocktails. Or feast on sea-to-plate, modern Australian dishes at the pet-friendly Restaurant 2317.

A plate of fresh oysters.
Slurp your way through the region’s best oysters. (Image: Destination NSW)

Start planning your Port Stephens getaway at portstephens.org.au .