To label the Indian Pacific one of the grandest journeys in Australia is to under-value the experience. This is one of the greatest journeys in the world, with very few, if any, peers.
It is one of only a few truly transcontinental journeys in the world and the only one that is easily completed from one carriage in less than a week.
What started life as a pragmatic passenger train 50-plus years ago is now unquestionably a journey of epic experiences . And more remarkably still, it continues to improve.
Launching in 2025, the new Perth to Sydney journey is now four nights (Sydney to Perth remains three nights) with a host of unforgettable experiences: bonfire and nightcap in the middle of the Nullarbor, a full morning in Broken Hill and Blue Mountains and the combination of two Aussie icons, The Indian Pacific and Seppeltsfield to host a memorable evening in the Barossa Valley.
Seppeltsfield dinner, Barossa Valley, SA
The signature moment from this new and improved four-day itinerary is the exclusive dinner at Seppeltsfield in the Barossa on the third evening.
Having traversed half the country, 24 hours of which is the mesmerising Nullarbor plain, we pass through the wheatfields of South Australia to arrive at the suitably named Long Plain.
Seventy-five kilometres north of Adelaide in the heart of the Yorke Peninsula’s wheat country, an endless carpet of golden stubble stretches out before me; the remnant of the lush fields of wheat left by the industrial headers who slashed off the valuable seed heads last January.
The 25 carriages of the Indian Pacific slow to walking pace before the unexpected jolt required to finally exhaust the inertia of a train that stretches further than the eye can easily see, brings us to a standstill. We amble the eight carriages from our Gold Class Premium lounge car to a suitable disembarking spot for the one-hour (60-kilometre) coach drive to Seppeltsfield.
We toast our good fortune on the manicured lawns and private gardens of the historic winery estate with bubbles and gourmet popcorn as the sun sets, flanked by several of the 2000-plus iconic Seppeltsfield palm trees that line the property.
Seppeltsfield’s Executive Chef Owen Andrews is flipping the racks of beef eye fillet over the charcoal as we enter the Barrell Room – a cavernous, corrugated iron shed. Strings of lights are stretched over six long tables surrounded by barrels and a dance floor; it feels like a feasting hall for Vikings.
In about two hours, the guests will form a Congo line almost as long as the Indian Pacific itself, encouraged by the band that has belted out all the hits to get the crowd on the dance floor
But first, we feast. Platters of eye fillet and pesto chicken breast are joined by roast potatoes, honey carrots and a green salad. Iconic Barossa shiraz and Eden Valley shiraz are in plentiful supply, and of course, the port barrel preserved cheese platter to finish is accompanied by the equally renowned Para Grand Tawny.
A closely guarded bottle of 1925 Vintage Para Tawny sits on one of the bars. For a charge, guests can sip the rare antique nectar.
Before the dance kicks off in earnest, Seppeltsfield’s Master Cooper Andrew Young fires up a flamethrower to demonstrate the art of turning a wine barrel into a whiskey barrel.
The drive back to the Indian Pacific in Adelaide starts with much shiraz, riesling and port-induced merriment and mirth that peters into the rhythmic bass of snoozing.
Broken Hill, NSW
The morning after the extravagant meal at Seppeltsfield, we arrive in the mining town that gave birth to the “Big Australia", BHP, Broken Hill.
Today, the town and I celebrate its more recent fame as the setting for iconic scenes from The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.
In a flurry of pastel pink, silver and turquois sequins Shelita Buffet (I am embarrassed to admit as I write this I have just got the pun, She’ll Eat A Buffet) exits her parked 4×4 ute, pauses dutifully at the zebra crossing before striding across in her white high heeled ankle boots to greet waiting Indian Pacific guests at Broken Hill station on a crystal-clear Monday morning…
It is an entrance befitting the queen of the city. She is built to play front row for the NRL and is all sass and fun as she leads our merry band on a walking tour of the city, mixing the industrial history of the town with a more contemporary context.
“The Royal Theatre is now the only nightclub in town; sticky floors and smells of disappointment." She quips on one of the early stops before stating the establishment was the largest theatre outside Sydney for a long time and has hosted some of Australia’s most celebrated rockers, Cold Chisel being the most recognised.
Discussing the many movies that have been filmed in Broken Hill, Shelita is full of pithy commentary. “Wake in Fright is about a man who is stuck in Broken Hill drinking every day and can’t escape… it is the story of my life".
Not entirely true. I find out later at the Tipsy Camel from Shelita’s mother, who is serving up drinks and light refreshments in between songs, trivia, bingo and games as part of Shelita’s show, that she returned from a life as a chef in Adelaide to build her show in her hometown of Broken Hill. Her builder brother not only helps with the renovations to the former brewery but also helps Shelita into her figure-hugging costumes between songs.
Kalgoorlie, WA
The new Indian Pacific itinerary now connects two of Australia’s greatest outback mining towns in one journey, Broken Hill and Kalgoorlie. On the first morning after leaving Perth, I opt for the Hannan’s North Tourist Mine experience.
Grabbing a fine dirty chai from the lounge before disembarking, we are greeted at Hannan’s by Jason Dimer. He delivers a poignant Welcome to Country at the small onsite theatrette before revealing how his Irish grandfather and First Nations grandmother’s relationship brought two tribes together at the beginning of the 20th Century.
We leave the small theatre and head to the two-up shed where local historian Danny Sheehan entertains with the numerous stories of two-up shenanigans in Kalgoorlie.
Back onboard, brunch is a welcome sight. In anticipation of the three-course meal, I decided the breakfast BLT with hollandaise sauce may be a little lighter than the gammon steak, but I immediately have food envy when I spy the two dishes on a table next to me.
Aysha, our waitress, takes matters into her own hands for dessert. She delivers both the natural yoghurt parfait as I ordered and a second plate of blueberry, apple and pear toast “just because it is so good". Three-course brunch is now three and a half courses of superb dishes.
Meanwhile, the Nullarbor creeps into view as the Great Western Woodland recedes from sight.
Cook, Nullarbor, SA
The feature-filled Nullarbor is today’s backdrop. Endless red sand, shrubs and the occasional flitting bird interrupt the seemingly lifeless landscape. We laze in the lounge car reading books and chatting with fellow travellers, or retire to our Gold Class Premium cabin to read, watch the Nullarbor like an endlessly flickering fire and nod off. No reception is a welcome enforced disconnect.
I rouse myself for afternoon tea and trivia with an onboard musician before lazing and lolling to be roused again for dinner. This unavoidable, disconnected, slow pace is liberating.
After dinner, the highlight of the day and the new journey is a stop at Cook in the middle of the Nullarbor for a bonfire, nightcap and stargazing.
This is big sky country, the quintessential Australian outback vastness that overwhelms most Westerners’ preconception of the possibilities of landscapes.
And, here in the middle of the night, I get to look up, around and beyond into the solar system, with a glass of port and a chocolate almond or three.
Blue Mountains, NSW
The Blue Mountains excursion on the fifth and final morning is proof of the original thinking used to create this new, more immersive off-train experience-led itinerary.
After passengers disembark for morning and lunch in the mountains, the train itself continues to Sydney Central Station. We will make the final two-hour journey to Sydney on a chartered passenger regional train.
Uncle David King leads our cultural tour of the Scenic World rainforest. He speaks in the forthright, passionate manner of an experienced elder who has connected thousands of interested visitors to the ancient culture and contemporary experiences of Aboriginal Australia.
His mother, part of the Stolen Generation, only started sharing her culture and experience with her children in 1996, waiting until “she felt culturally safe"; when she felt it would not be a burden to her children and accepted by a more accepting modern Australian community. Uncle David shares this uncomfortable narrative with such obvious pride and humour, focusing on the positive that he is now custodian of such knowledge, devoid of judgement that his acquisition of the knowledge was challenging.
His positivity and humour make the simple 90-minute tour a delight. Sitting on the verandah, Uncle David passes around a weighty nulla and equally dangerous boomerang designed not to return but break the legs of mammals.
Descending the world’s steepest railway, we stroll the easy boardwalks among the rainforest as Uncle David’s commentary ranges from modern to ancient. “That is the toilet paper tree, but not big enough for me."
Indian Pacific Perth to Sydney is more than a journey of a lifetime
The facts of the Indian Pacific are undeniable: a transcontinental journey accompanied by outstanding food and wine and superb service. In four nights of relative comfort and luxury on the Indian Pacific, you gain an intimate understanding.
But more than that, the Indian Pacific is a journey across the formative landscapes that have shaped the people, from First Nations to industrial and agricultural pioneers.
Indian Pacific Perth to Sydney new itinerary
The new four-night, five-day itinerary is as follows:
Day 1
Board Perth at 4pm and depart at 6pm. Dinner onboard.
Day 2
Arrive in Kalgoorlie at 6am for off-train experiences.
Brunch back onboard at 10.30am.
Afternoon tea and trivia.
Dinner onboard.
Arrive at Cook for bonfire, stargazing and nightcap.
Day 3
Breakfast and lunch onboard, crossing the Nullarbor.
Arrive at Long Plain and board the coaches for a one-hour drive to Seppeltsfield.
Depart Seppeltsfield at 10pm and reboard the train in Adelaide.
Day 4
Breakfast onboard, arrive at Broken Hill.
12.30pm depart Broken Hill.
Lunch and dinner onboard (prime emu spotting).
Day 5
Breakfast onboard, disembark for Blue Mountains experiences at 9am.
Lunch at Echo Point.
Join a chartered commuter train for the journey into Sydney.
