The new way to do the Waterfall Way

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It turns out we’ve been doing the Waterfall Way all wrong…

One of the most magnificent road trips in NSW, the Waterfall Way takes travellers through five national parks, dramatic gorge country and lush rolling farmland, with the chance to explore historic towns along the way. But while lots of guides to the Waterfall Way start at the Coffs Coast and work their way up to Armidale, we say it’s even better to be like a waterfall and flow down from the New England highlands to the sea.

Rather than joining the 185-kilometre Waterfall Way (also known as the B78) from the busy Pacific Highway, we suggest starting with a country drive along the New England Highway or Thunderbolts Way. As well as feeling easier to drive down winding roads than up, you’ll also be able to see the sweeping views open up in front of you as you make your way down the mountains. Here’s our guide to what to see and do along the Waterfall Way.

Thunderbolts Way NSW
Take the winding country roads along Thunderbolts Way. (Image: Destination NSW)

Armidale to Ebor: 81 kilometres

Start your road trip in Australia’s highest city, Armidale, where you can stroll along streets lined with heritage-listed buildings and see Australian art treasures at the New England Regional Art Museum (NERAM).

Armidale Post Office
Discover the many charms of the country town of Armidale in the New England region.
The indoors of a museum with white wall and colorful frames, and two people walking past.
A visit to NERAM’s vibrant art gallery featuring Australian art collections, artist’s studio, shop, and café is a nice addition to your road trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

As you drive east along Waterfall Way it’s only half an hour to Wollomombi Falls, the first waterfall of the trip and the highest in NSW. After rain the falls are a spectacular sight as the water cascades 220 metres into the valley below.

Wollomombi Gorge Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
See the highest waterfall in NSW at the impressive Wollomombi Falls. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

In dryer times you may not see the waterfall, but it’s still worth stopping to look out over the massive wild gorge from the viewing platform near the car park, or you can stretch your legs along the four-kilometre return, grade three Wollomombi walking track .

Wollomombi Gorge Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
Be amazed at the sheer size of Wollomombi Gorge from the viewing platform. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

Listen to local elder Steve Widders share Wollomombi gorge Dreaming stories on the Wollomombi Falls soundtrail , where you can also learn about the ecology and colonial history of the area.

Continue along the Waterfall Way to the New England National Park, where the Point lookout walking track offers incredible 180-degree views over World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests all the way to the ocean.

Point Lookout New England National Park
Soak up the 180-degree views of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests in New England National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

With its sealed track, this 500-metre, grade one loop is easy for the whole family; the first lookout is only 100 metres from the car park and is accessible for those with mobility issues. Be sure to keep an eye out for the lyrebirds who call this ancient rainforest home.

New England National Park
Explore the New England National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

Keep your hiking boots on as you drive another 35 minutes to Cathedral Rock National Park , where you can go rock hopping on huge boulders. There are short walks from the campgrounds to enjoy, as well as the six-kilometre return, grade five Cathedral Rock track for more experienced hikers who’ll be rewarded with scenic views from the summit.

Cathedral Rock National Park
Tackle the six-kilometre return, grade five Cathedral Rock track. (Image: Harrison Candlin)

Then it’s only a 20 minute drive to one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Australia: Ebor Falls . With its upper and lower falls, this tiered wonder turns Guy Fawkes River into a white water beauty. Unfortunately the viewing platforms that were lost in the bushfires have yet to be replaced, but you can still see part of the falls from behind a safety barrier.

Ebor Falls
The majestic Ebor Falls never get old and are located in Guy Fawkes River National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin)

Rainbow and brown trout thrive in the rivers and streams around Ebor, and in trout fishing season they can also be caught in the Bielsdown River that flows through the village. Just outside Ebor you can visit the Dutton Trout Hatchery , which raises two million trout to be released into NSW waterways annually.

Shop

In Armidale’s open-air Beardy Street Mall the New England Collective shares a wide range of products from local designers and artisans, while Granny Fi’s Toy Cupboard is filled with handmade dolls, dragons and other fantastic creatures.

Armidale Plaza is a mix of national brands and local shops. Discover special New England blend teas at the award-winning Daily Ritual , and find a handcrafted hat – or have one custom made for you – at New England Hatters.

Eat

Start your day in Armidale with breakfast at The Goldfish Bowl , where the organic bread is traditionally baked on the hot bricks of the oven floor, and the coffee is roasted on site.

A yellow pastry on a white and blue plate with a coffee in a brown mug in a wooden table.
Choose from a delicious range of pastries and start your road trip day in the right way. (Image: Destination NSW)

For a great pub lunch, White Bull has you covered; think pub classics, Thai salads and daily specials. When it’s time for dinner, the Napoli-style wood-fired pizzas at Signor Vertelli are a stand out, while at Tattersalls Hotel you can choose between fine dining in the restaurant and more casual meals in the pizza garden.

A photo of a cake, ice cream and fruit on a white plate.
The cake is served at the Tattersalls Hotel in Armidale – it is the perfect excuse to stop by. (Image: Destination NSW).

In Ebor, the family-friendly Fusspots Cafe serves sandwiches, salads and light meals for breakfast and lunch.

Stay

After a multi-million dollar renovation, Armidale’s Tattersalls Hotel has been transformed into an Art Deco delight in the heart of the city. As well as restoring period features including a sweeping walnut staircase and pressed tin ceilings,  the makeover offers guests a range of luxurious rooms and a stylish lounge area.

An historical facade of a hotel painted in white under a blue sky.
The Tattersalls Hotel in Armidale is the perfect spot for the discerning traveller and locals alike. (Image: Destination NSW)

Outside Ebor, Moffat Falls is a regenerative farm with a range of accommodation options, including cabins, a cottage, and a fly fishing lodge. The latter can sleep up to eight guests in four bedrooms, each with balconies overlooking the property’s waterfall.

On the edge of the escarpment in the New England National Park, The Chalet is a cosy cabin that can sleep up to three people. Enjoy a BBQ on the deck with a view, and step out your front door to join walking tracks through World Heritage-listed rainforest.

Ebor to Dorrigo: 46 kilometres

Watch the landscape change to rolling green hills as you make your way from Ebor to Dorrigo. While it only takes around 40 minutes to drive between the village and the small town, the views change so dramatically it’s easy to believe you’re in a different part of the country.

A 4WD driving through a scenic forest near Dorrigo.
Be prepared to open your windows and get your cameras out as you will be driving through the scenic forests of Dorrigo. (Image: Destination NSW)

Step out onto the Skywalk at the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre , a 70-metre boardwalk that takes you over the edge of the escarpment for panoramic views of the rosewood rainforest basin and Bellinger Valley. Dorrigo Rainforest Centre is also where you can learn about local plants and animals, and get tips on how to make the most of your time in the Dorrigo National Park, including guided tours and the best walking tracks for your level of fitness.

Highlights include the Crystal Shower Falls walk, a 4.4-kilometre, grade two walk that takes you through World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforest and over a small suspension bridge. After admiring the falls from the bridge you can walk down to a rocky cavern behind the waterfall to look back out at the rainforest through the falling water. For those with more time and energy, the Wonga Walk takes in both the Crystal Showers Falls and the Tristania Falls on a 6.6-kilometre, grade two loop.

Crystal Shower Falls Dorrigo National Park
Hike to the magical Crystal Shower Falls in Dorrigo National Park.

On the other side of Dorrigo, just a few minutes’ drive from the centre of town, Dangar Falls can be viewed from above (thanks to a platform right next to the car park) or from below (after a 20-minute walk down to the water’s edge). If the water’s warm enough you can swim out to the 30-metre-high falls, but this is best for stronger swimmers as the water is deep and there’s no chance to rest.

A photo of waterfalls.
Admire the picturesque and scenic Dangar Falls. (Image: Destination NSW)

Shop

Thanks to an excellent gift shop in the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre you may find yourself doing a spot of shopping before you make it out of the national park.

In town, The Mountain Merchant has a well-curated selection of clothing, gifts, beauty and wellness products, with a focus on sustainable Australian labels. Miss Wink is another top spot for gifts and homewares.

Eat

In a cute cottage on Hickory Street, Components Cafe serves up flavour-packed all-day breakfasts and lunches, with vegetarian and gluten-free options available. The cafe also sells local products including bespoke timber furniture and cruelty-free organic skincare in compostable timber pots by Avirida .

At the Lookout Mountain Retreat, Waterfall Way Cafe & Bistro serves fresh seasonal dishes with ingredients sourced from their own onsite garden and local farmers and producers. Sit by the huge stone fireplace in colder months, or enjoy the outdoor terrace when the sun is shining.

Stay

Just a few minutes out of town, looking out over the Dorrigo National Park, the newly refurbished Lookout Mountain Retreat has 26 comfortable rooms including queen, family, triple-share and executive suite layouts. The retreat also has its own deer enclosure, where the family can get close to the gentle creatures as they explore the grounds.

The Dorrigo Town House B&B has a king-size bed with linen sheets, a kitchenette with an air fryer and microwave, and a Smart TV with streaming services ready to go. Bikes and helmets are provided for those who’d like to explore on two wheels; if relaxing is more your thing, you can arrange to have a massage in your B&B.

Dorrigo to Urunga: 44 kilometres

You may now be saying goodbye to the big waterfalls of the trip, but keep an eye out for the smaller falls on the sides of the road as you wind your way down to Bellingen. Here the road is so narrow that at times you’ll need to take turns to cross single lane bridges; enjoy taking it nice and slow, and wind down your windows to hear the calls of rainforest birds as you go.

Explore the independent boutiques and organic cafes in bohemian Bellingen, and discover the wildlife and rich ecosystems along the Bellinger River from the water with Bellingen Canoe Adventures .

A photo of a couple on a canoe along a river.
Get a splash of fun by treating yourself and your family to a tour with Bellingen Canoe Adventures along the Bellingen River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Follow the last stretch of the Waterfall Way through fertile farmland to Urunga, where the Bellinger and Kalang rivers flow into the sea. Walk along the wheelchair-accessible Urunga Boardwalk, keeping an eye out for bottlenose dolphins in the estuary, and watch for humpback whales from May to November.

Urunga NSW
The Bellinger and Kalang rivers flow into the sea at Urunga.

Urunga is just half an hour’s drive from Coffs Harbour and a great base to explore the national parks and beaches in NSW’s first eco destination, Coffs Coast.

Boats docked in a marina between mountains.
Lying on the spectacular Coffs Coast, Coffs Harbour is a wonderful destination for family holidays and memorable adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

Shop

The heritage-listed Hammond and Wheatley Commercial Emporium, one of the most beautiful buildings in the area, features decorative cement renders, pressed metal ceilings and cedar joinery. It’s now home to the clothing and homewares store Emporium Bellingen , as well as the eclectic Dervish Gallery .

Browse boutiques in historic buildings along Hyde Street, including local handmade and sustainable clothing at The Collective . On the third Saturday of the month you can check out stalls by local artisans, growers and producers while listening to live music at the Bellingen Community Markets .

A photo of a street in a town centre with cafes where people are sitting down.
Explore Bellingen’s town centre. (Image: Destination NSW)

In Urunga you can find clothing, cosmetics and gifts (as well as getting your brows done) at Banksie Blue , while the Urunga Riverside Market hosts stalls, entertainment and food on the Boardwalk on the second Saturday of the month.

Eat

In Bellingen, enjoy a quick bite with wine and cocktails or share a grazing-style meal that includes swordfish and slow cooked lamb in a renovated church at Cedar Bar & Kitchen . For wood-fired pizzas and craft beer, Bellingen Brewing Co is the place to be, while the Old Butter Factory Cafe shares tasty classics in a building with more than 110 years of history.

Start your mornings in Urunga with a hearty breakfast or a sweet treat at Pomegranate, then end your day with a Mediterranean-inspired dinner at Embers Restaurant .

Stay

Relax on a 100-acre sanctuary on the Never Never River at the Promised Land Retreat , where guests can choose between three architecturally designed chalets with fully equipped kitchens, large living areas, decks and spa baths.

At the Riverside Holiday Resort in Urunga there are 40 two-bedroom apartments featuring open-plan kitchen, dining and living rooms, including five wheelchair-accessible units. All the units can cater for up to six people and have their own patios or balconies, with a shared pool, trampoline and BBQ area.

To plan your trip and download maps and itineraries, visit My Waterfall Way .  

Amanda Woods
Amanda Woods is a travel writer based in New England high country in NSW. She’s travelled from Antarctica to the Arctic and loves to inspire people to get out and explore this big beautiful world of ours. She has a passion for regenerative, sustainable and mindful travel and has some big Australian travel dreams for the future.
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Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole
See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast
Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior
Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast
Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital
Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf  serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie
Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast
Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast
Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple
Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park
Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Novotel Wollongong Northbeach
Fall asleep listening to the waves.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.