Pedal through paradise on the Northern Rivers Rail Trail

hero media
Discover The Tweed and its bucolic surrounds via the Northern Rivers Rail Trail .

Rail trails are on the rise and the newest addition is set to shine the spotlight on a collection of NSW’s most charming towns and villages.

Unfurling through hinterland and rural towns, the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is set to be a game-changer for the NSW region, opening up The Tweed and beyond to travellers in new ways, one pedal at a time.

Assessing the risk of bodily harm as I clip up my helmet, I glance around at the other punters hiring e-bikes on this blue-sky day in the NSW town of Murwillumbah in the heart of the Tweed Valley.

They include a few happily frazzled families, some wide-smiling couples and plenty of active-looking retiree types. They all appear confident and casual as they swing a leg over their Murf bikes. Should be a nice and relaxed pace out there on the Northern Rivers Rail Trail today, I surmise somewhat gormlessly.

Getting started

I bounce up and down on the fat, four-inch tyres. Feels pretty sturdy. There are five speeds, but I’m told there’s really no need to ascend to top speed. But ‘really’ seems slightly suggestive, almost inviting. I test myself at the lowest setting and, “Weooh!", surge forward with a rush no amount of self-propulsion could ever replicate. Of course, you can do the trail on a regular bike, a horse or just legs, but electric is the way to go if you’re keen to complete the 24 kilometres there and back in one day.

two cyclists entering the Tweed section start of the rail trail
The start of the Tweed section of the Rail Trail.

The crunch of gravel under rubber, the warm, sun-soaked country air and the electric whirr of rail trailers setting off give me all the buoyancy of a kid at a trampoline park. We gently push off from Murwillumbah Railway Station, which, like the other platforms along the trail, is enjoying emancipation from tyre-kicking youths after 20 years of disuse.

a scenic aerial view of Tweed River
The Tweed River meanders through the valley. (Image: Destination NSW/Trevor Worden)

It’s idyllic, except that nobody warned me about the sexagenarians. Along the route there are signs cautioning trail-goers to look out for horses and driveways, but nothing about Lycra-sheathed 65-year-olds hell-bent on beating their PBs to arrive at a flat white and banana bread in the next town. They have no hesitation accessing top speed as they whizz by with maniacal, adrenaline-stretched smiles. Toddlers on training wheels be damned; these grey go-mads have been heeding advice for six decades and now no one is going to tell them they shouldn’t pump it to level five.

I tut-tut their speed as I pedal leisurely at level three with all the urgency, and much of the mood, of Julie Andrews belting out The Hills Are Alive. But maybe I’m a little jealous of their cavalier attitude to speed and of their top-tier health cover. They are undoubtedly living their best lives. So is everyone I pass along the way – there are plenty of one-handed salutations.

a scenic view of the Tweed River
Enjoy country air and open spaces. (Image: Destination NSW/Alexandra Adoncello)

The development of the trail

The first section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail opened in the Tweed Shire in 2023 and connects Murwillumbah to Crabbes Creek, meandering through the bucolic landscape to pass the towns of Stokers Siding, Burringbar and Mooball. It slips through two tunnels (one festooned with glow worms), over 16 restored bridges and is flanked by rolling meadows populated with ambivalent bovine, rainforests and a tiny but ambient pine forest.

riders cycling through the Northern Rivers Rail Trail in the Tweed
Riders slice through the emerald-green Tweed Shire on a repurposed railway track turned bike trail. (Image: Kiff & Culture/Tweed Tourism Co)

It’s just the beginning of what will ultimately be 132 kilometres of trail, unfurling through the Byron Shire, out to Eltham, Lismore and Bentley before terminating at Casino.

cycling through the Tweed Rail Trail as seen from above
When finished, the trail will extend for 132 kilometres.

The Richmond Valley section that stretches for 13.4 kilometres between Bentley and Casino opened in March, and construction on the 31.8-kilometre Lismore section from Eltham to Bentley is underway. The Byron stretch, connecting Crabbes Creek to Eltham, will be the longest at 62.8 kilometres, and is currently going through the planning and approval stage.

cycling through the Tweed trail
The trail slices through bucolic meadows and forest.

Any shire would be certifiably nuts not to invest in their portion of the Rail Trail, given the enormous economic success it has had in Murwillumbah and the general ebullience of the towns through which it weaves. In its first year, the trail welcomed a huge 140,000-plus visitors, making it one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Northern Rivers. It also made Conde Nast Traveler’s list of The 24 Best Places To Go In 2024, proving interest isn’t only local.

an aerial view of riders cycling through the Tweed Rail Trail
The Rail Trail opens up The Tweed and beyond to travellers.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Where to stop along the way

Riverside Murwillumbah had been inching towards full bloom for a while. Already in possession of drawcards – such as its well-preserved Art Deco heritage, proliferation of artists and easy proximity to beaches and rainforested mountain ranges – it was on a slow burn from rural ambiguity to tourism hotspot. The Rail Trail has hastened that inevitability and while there’s ample room for growth, there’s a tangible excitement about the town as it’s on the cusp of reaching its potential.

visitors exploring the Tweed Regional Gallery
Tweed Regional Gallery is one of Murwillumbah’s creative draws. (Image: Destination NSW/Alexandra Adoncello)

Indeed, the heritage hamlet of Eltham has impatiently embellished its ramshackle former station with homemade signs pleading to connect it to the rest of the trail.

the exterior of The Eltham Hotel
The century-old pub has a charming facade. (Image: Jessie Prince)

It makes perfect sense, as home to a tennis court, the saddest playground I ever did see, and the hip Eltham Hotel that draws all walks from Byron and beyond with its incredible food from chef Alanna Sapwell-Stone, stylish accommodation and excellent live music, Eltham would be a real highlight for cyclists. It deserves to be threaded onto the line.

the interior of the Eltham Hotel
You’ll be able to pit stop at the Eltham Hotel once the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is complete. (Image: Jessie Prince)

A corridor that was, for two decades, mooched over by livestock, graffitied by bored teenagers and overgrown with pine trees, the repurposing is a boon for the region. And while there are some detractors, the cost of restoring and refurbishing the existing tracks to reinstate trains on this line rendered their return impossible, so creating something that would stimulate and showcase this adorable string of rural towns and bring in tourist dollars is a win-win for everyone. Except, maybe, trainspotters.

the bedroom at The Eltham Hotel
Each room at this hip bolthole is unique. (Image: Jessie Prince)

In some cases ‘town’ is a tad of an overstatement. Along the current trail, stunning Stokers Siding is really just a memorial hall and a cluster of paddocks, but here you can stop at Hosanna Farm, an agrarian utopia where a well-tended smoker pumps out deliciously fortifying meals in the form of brisket and burgers at the rustic cafe.

an outdoor dining spot at Hosanna Farm
Stop at the pretty Hosanna Farm. (Image: Tamara Hall)

If you’re in no hurry, you can spend the night in a cute A-frame hut and settle around a campfire or sip sundowners by the dam before cycling onwards the next day.

a spread of food on the table at The Eltham Hotel
Chef Alanna Sapwell-Stone oversees the menu at Eltham Hotel. (Image: Jessie Prince)

Make sure you have a head lamp though, because what comes next is the Burringbar Range Tunnel. At 500 metres long, it’s dark enough to provide a snug roost for microbats and glow worms. And also dark enough for you to hurtle headfirst into a fellow rider or the tunnel wall if you’re not adequately illuminated. It has thrilling ghost ride vibes, but truly, the real threat remains those uncharacteristically daring retirees, who seem to relish passing at speed, tripping your nervous system into battle formation.

Back in daylight and a few klicks on you’ll arrive in Burringbar, a diminutive but gentrifying hinterland village, where riders can dismount for a coffee from the general store, peruse antiques at Heath’s Old Wares, and purchase a take-home tipple from the seemingly out-of-place Natural Wine Shop. Then it’s onwards to Mooball, where an unashamedly no-frills country pub (with a tennis court) and a motorcycle museum number among the highlights. Your final stop is Crabbes Creek, which mainly consists of a bottle shop masquerading as a general store. From here it’s time to pump up your tyres and turn back.

the Natural Wine Shop at Burringbar
Have a tipple at Burringbar’s Natural Wine Shop.

That is until the Byron Shire picks up the slack and unspools the trail down to Billinudgel and onto Mullumbimby. Both are set to lure riders southwards with the historic weatherboard Billinudgel Hotel (also with a tennis court, of course), and Mullum’s eclectic, mountain-backed township as charming as their Tweed counterparts.

And while Byron isn’t lacking the spotlight (the shire is so confident in its own popularity that it doesn’t even have a tourism board), it, too, has a collection of sweet, farther-flung villages that would lure multi-day cycling excursions and connect rural communities. There’s no refuting that The Tweed and Byron beaches remain the biggest drawcard, but the Rail Trail is such a complementary attraction to an active holiday here, it has the power to transform the whole region from a nice-to-visit to a must-visit. Just ask a 60-year-old, if you can slow them down, that is.

two cyclists biking along the Tweed trail
Hit the repurposed rail track.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Arrive in the Northern Rivers by road, rail or air. Fly into airports in Grafton, Lismore and Byron Bay. Or arrive via the North Coast train line.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

Staying there

Blue Water Motel

A retro-revival surf motel, this coastal-chic stay is just a short walk from the beach at Kingscliff and a bit further to town, where you’ll find plenty of dining and shopping options, including the Kingscliff Hotel, which often has a rotation of noteworthy bands.

the bedroom at Kingscliff’s Blue Water Motel
Bed down at Kingscliff’s Blue Water Motel.

BASQ House

One of Byron’s newest boutique hotel offerings, this town-centre establishment lists a pool lined with day beds and adjacent lounge among its stylish amenities, as well as a library. Lekker bikes and foam surfboards can be taken out, too.

the chic interior of Basq House in Tweed
BASQ House is in the heart of town. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Eating there

Bistro Livi

Murwillumbah and The Tweed have more noteworthy restaurants than you might think. But Bistro Livi is the most unmissable.

a close-up shot of a dish at Bistro Livi
Bistro Livi serves dishes with a focus on produce from the Northern Rivers. (Image: Jessie Prince)

Set on the corner of the M-Arts precinct, this sleek diner from former MoVida alumni has everything from the cocktails to the menu and hospitality in perfect working order.

the M-Arts Precinctat Murwillumbah
See M-Arts Precinct at Murwillumbah. (Image: Hayley Nedland)

Playing there

Hire an e-Bike

You can trail as you like, but an e-bike is a lot of fun. If it’s not busy, allow yourself to open up the range and feel the wind in your hair. Valley e-Bikes also offer Pedals and Picnics, where you can choose from grazing boxes and take-home picnic packs. Better By Bike – located at Murwillumbah station – has a shuttle service, should one direction be sufficient.

The Banya

If your muscles are feeling fatigued, book yourself a session at The Banya in Mullumbimby.

an daybed at The Banya
It’s a magnet in Mullumbimby. (Image: Kristian Beek)

This soothing, green-and-white tiled bathhouse with steam room, sauna and four pools has a sleek Mediterranean vibe and is the best way to restore post-ride. Go deeper and add a massage.

holding a green drink at The Banya
Drink in The Banya. (Image: Kristian Beek)

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
View profile and articles
hero media

This stretch of Sydney beaches topped the annual Best Australian Beaches list

    Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
    Bate Bay’s sweep of beaches has been crowned Australia’s best for 2026, placing Sutherland Shire in the spotlight as a top coastal destination just south of Sydney’s CBD.

    The beaches fringing Bate Bay – Cronulla, North Cronulla, Wanda, Elouera and Greenhills – have topped Tourism Australia’s 2026 list of best Australian beaches (as curated by Beach Ambassador Brad Farmer). For locals, it’s less revelation, more recognition.

    The mood shifts from the moment you step off the T4 train service from Central to Cronulla and catch a glimpse of the ocean. At dawn, the Esplanade is already buzzing with regulars, and by mid-morning, parents have staked out a toasty spot on Cronulla Beach where excited toddlers clamber over rocks, and the Jellybean swim squad at Oak Park have donned their bright pink caps while singing Oh, What a Beautiful Mornin’.

    By the afternoon, towels are being collected from across the sand as visitors wander back to Cronulla in loose formation.

    North Cronulla beach
    Dive into the world’s best beaches.

    That’s the thing about Bate Bay beaches. This isn’t a story about a single beach. This long, uninterrupted sweep of sand and sea, where you can walk for kilometres without breaking stride, is not just enjoyed over summer; it’s a year-round destination. Here, Cronulla’s buzz gives way to Wanda’s wild edges, before stretching out to the quieter reaches of Greenhills.

    But while Bate Bay’s beaches may have taken top honours in the 2026 Best Australian Beaches list, they’re only part of the drawcard. Sutherland Shire stacks up as a full-spectrum coastal escape, where good food, national park adventures and on-the-water experiences sit within easy reach of the shoreline. Whether you’re planning a long weekend or stretching out a stay, here’s how to make the most of Cronulla beyond the sand, sea and surf.

    Beyond the beaches

    Dining

    the dining room at Pippis Cronulla
    Enjoy a sundowner by the sea at Pippis Cronulla.

    The Sutherland Shire dining scene delivers from early morning to late at night with a mix of vibrant cafes, bars and pubs. Start your day at Grind Espresso, where the coffee comes strong and fast. From there, drift towards HAM for pastries, best eaten buttery warm.   

    By midday, locals linger across sun-lit tables. Loaf and Next Door appeal to the surfers who come in for snacks after chasing waves. Blackwood’s Pantry and The Press are also popular for breakfast and lunch, while Pilgrim’s continues to hold a special place in the hearts of vegans.

    Newer arrivals signal where Cronulla is heading: Homer Rogue Taverna is being hailed as one of the best restaurants in Cronulla, with the confidence that comes from understanding what locals want. Ask a local to reveal their favourite restaurant for a special occasion, and it’ll likely be Pino’s Vino e Cucina al Mare, Yalla Sawa or Alphabet Street. Summer Salt, Sealevel, Benny’s, Bobbys and Pippis are a few of the best waterfront restaurants in the Shire.

    Finally, when most places are winding down, Duke’s Providore shifts gears to become Duke’s After Hours – a low-lit romantic spot perfect for a date night. Parc Pavilion, Northies Cronulla and bars The Blind Bear, Las Chicas and Low & Lofty’s are also part of Cronulla’s identity.

    Visit Bundeena

    Bundeena Ferry Wharf
    Catch a ferry to Bundeena.

    A short ferry ride from Cronulla, Bundeena offers a counterpoint to Cronulla’s mighty surf beaches. If Cronulla is the Shire’s social heart, Bundeena – or Bundenesia, as it’s affectionately known – is the place to go to exhale and unwind.

    Hop on the ferry from Cronulla, and within 30 minutes, you’ll be inhaling the eucalyptus-scented air. Check the creative pulse of the local community by timing your visit with the Bundeena Maianbar Art Trail on the first Sunday of every month.

    One of the best things to do in Bundeena is paddle into Cabbage Tree Basin with Bundeena Kayaks. Follow the five-kilometre Jibbon Beach Loop Track that leads past quiet coves to ancient Indigenous rock art, or simply find a stretch of pearl-white sand to relax on.

    Pristine walking trails

    Royal National Park Cape Baily Walking Track
    Cool off with a coastal stroll.

    Beyond the coastline, Sutherland Shire offers myriad ways to shift gears. Royal National Park – the oldest national park in Australia – sits just minutes from the surf. Clifftop walks trace the edge of the continent, the rugged bushland is threaded with creeks and hidden waterfalls, and a network of tracks rewards those willing to go a little further.

    Take the Coast Track, where the land drops cleanly into the ocean over sheer cliffs that have been stacked together like giant Jenga. Or veer inland, where pockets of forest cool the air and filter the light. It’s a reminder of how close nature sits to the bustle of suburbs in the Sutherland Shire.

    Enjoy whale watching

    humpback whale sighting noosa experiences
    Spot whales from May to October. (Credit: The Edit Suite)

    Twist your binoculars until the ocean is in focus, stretched like a creased blue sheet all around.  Come May, the East Coast becomes the humpback highway. Thousands of whales migrate along this stretch of coastline each year, their movements tracked by keen eyes from vantage points like the Cape Solander platform in Kamay Botany Bay National Park, one of the best places for whale watching in Australia. There’s something quietly thrilling about seeing that first telltale spout or the arc of a breaching body against the vastness of the sea. From June to October, whale-watching cruises depart from Cronulla, offering a closer look at the migration.

    Awards come and go. But places like Cronulla endure because they belong as much to the visitors as they do the early-morning swimmers, walkers and surfers.

    Plan your escape at visitsutherlandshire.com.au.

    Northern Rivers Rail Trail: A Cycler’s Guide | Australian Traveller