This underrated NSW hike passes through 2 coastal national parks

This little-known coastal track is hiding in plain sight.

Tucked between South West Rocks and the sleepy surf hamlet of Hat Head lies a walking trail so wild and scenic, it cuts through not one but two coastal NSW national parks – and somehow still flies under the radar.

The Smoky Cape Range Walking Track is the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned your morning coffee. This 5.5-kilometre one-way track winds through a ridgeline flanked by Arakoon and Hat Head national parks, offering sweeping ocean views, rugged terrain, rainforest pockets and a side of convict history for good measure.

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone – this little-known walk is one of the most underrated on the Mid North Coast.

Two national parks, one unforgettable walk

Starting near the historic Overshot Dam at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park, the trail ascends through coastal heathlands, rainforests and grassy woodlands. As you traverse the ridge, you’ll transition into Hat Head National Park, where the landscape shifts to lush rainforests and expansive ocean vistas. The trail culminates at the iconic Smoky Cape Lighthouse, perched dramatically above the Pacific Ocean.

This walk is not just a physical journey but also a cultural one. The land holds deep significance for the Dunghutti people, the Traditional Custodians of the area. Walking through these parks offers a chance to reflect on the rich Aboriginal heritage and the natural beauty that has been preserved for generations.

Wildlife and seasonal spectacles

Eastern grey kangaroo at sunset beachside camping with great fishing and beaches perfect for whale watching and swimming in Arakoon National Park — Spot wildlife on the walk. (Image: Nick Cubbin/DCCEEW)

Depending on the season, the trail offers different natural spectacles. In spring, the heathlands burst into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers, attracting a variety of bird species.

From May to November, the cliffs become prime vantage points for whale watching, as humpback and southern right whales migrate along the coast. Keep an eye out for wallabies, echidnas and the occasional goanna basking in the sun.

A lighthouse steeped in history

Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park — Smoky Cape Lighthouse is one of the state’s tallest. (Image: Jessica Robertson/DCCEEW)

Upon reaching the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, you’re greeted by one of the tallest lighthouses in NSW, built in 1891. This heritage-listed structure offers not only a sweeping 360-degree view of Hat Head National Park and the wild coast below but also a glimpse into maritime history.

For those interested in delving deeper, the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the lighthouse . Led by knowledgeable rangers, these 45-minute tours provide insights into the lighthouse’s history and operations. Tours are scheduled on select dates throughout the year, and bookings are essential.

Even better? There’s a car park nearby, so if you want to do the track one way, you can arrange a pick-up at the lighthouse end and make it a point-to-point hike instead of an out-and-back.

Stay a little longer

Kangaroo in front of Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park — You can stay at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. (Image: Robert Mulally/DCCEEW)

To fully immerse yourself in the area’s charm, consider staying at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages . This historic accommodation offers both bed and breakfast and self-contained options, providing a unique opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse precinct. Situated high above Smoky Beach, the cottages are perfect for whale watching in winter and enjoying the tranquillity of the national park year-round.

What to know before you go

Views of North Smoky Beach from Smoky Cape Lighthouse in Hat Head National Park, Arakoon — This walk is best suited for those with bushwalking experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

This is a Grade 4 trail, meaning it’s best suited to fit walkers with some bushwalking experience. You’ll want decent footwear, plenty of water and a charged phone with offline maps.

There’s not much signage, so download a trail map ahead of time or use AllTrails. It’s around two to three hours one-way if you take your time to stop at the scenic points (and you should).

Note: Limited mobile reception in some areas; plan accordingly.

Make a weekend of it

Screw Pine Trees (Pandanus tectorius var. australianus), also known as Beach Pandan or Breadfruit are scattered along the rocky headlands along the Little Bay to Smoky Cape track in Hat Head National Park — Make the most of your time in the region. (Image: John Spencer/DCCEEW)

South West Rocks is the perfect base for this walk, with beachfront holiday parks, cosy cabins and local cafes to refuel in after your hike. Add in a sunset swim at Trial Bay or a visit to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of Trial Bay Gaol, and you’ve got yourself one very memorable nature escape.

Not many walks let you cross between two national parks, pass a heritage lighthouse and feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. But this one does. And it’s right there, hiding in plain sight.

Newcastle’s vibrant creativity is evident everywhere, from a thriving live arts scene to an ever-growing offering for gourmands. Those with a hunger for new and exciting experiences should put Newcastle on their radar.

When it comes to consuming the culture of a city, digesting it (in the literal sense) is an appropriate place to start. But it’s not just a world-class wining and dining scene that’s on the menu (not to mention all the new restaurants in Newcastle ). Newcastle – just two hours north of Sydney – offers the perfect blend of arts, culture and culinary experiences that make it a prime destination for an extended escape. The city’s creative future looks even brighter with the reopening of the highly anticipated Newcastle Art Gallery on the horizon.

aerial of Nobbys beach in newcastle nsw — Newcastle offers the perfect coastal setting for the arts and delicious eats. (Image: City of Newcastle)

Given Newcastle’s compact size – many venues are within easy walking distance or a quick drive away – you can immerse yourself fully. From decadent patisseries to fine diners and casual coastal eats, here’s a fresh taste of Newcastle: where to eat, drink and soak up the coastal city’s good vibes.

1. Pastry cafes in Newcastle

pastries next to a pastry box from crumb cafe in newcastle — Lean into Newcastle’s pastry renaissance at Crumb. (Image: Jemma Donkin)

Pastry is having a moment, with a quietly booming scene led by CRUMB, the brand-new pastry cafe in Lambton led by legendary Gareth Williams (of Covered in Crumbs, EXP) and Ben Richardson (Autumn Rooms). Gareth describes his style of food as ‘creative chaos’. Enjoy that abstract artisanal approach over a savoury chorizo, bechamel, cheddar and poppy pastry, or a layered mortadella and pesto mayo croissant sandwich.

Meanwhile, Leibe European Pastries, Pekárna, Union St Pastry and Praise Joe also have their own flair and loyal followings. While Liebe European Pastries is famed for layered German pastries such as Franzbrötchen, Pekárna’s signatures (like cardamom pastries) are tethered to Czech traditions.

Head a few blocks west to Wickham, where Union St Pastry is the pinnacle for lovers of European-style viennoiseries, such as croissants and Danishes. A getaway to Newcastle also looks pretty fabulous with a mega brownie or chicken little toastie from Praise Joe .

2. Destination dining

Blanca resuarant in newcastle nsw — Step inside Mediterranean-inspired eatery, Blanca. (Image: Destination NSW)

Life looks pretty peachy from a table at the breezy Mediterranean-inspired eatery Blanca , which would not be out of place in Mykonos – when it swooped into the Honeysuckle Precinct a few years ago, it caused heads to swivel. Say yasou to mezedes of crudo di mare and sheftalia and grilled Abrolhos Islands’ octopus.

One may also fantasise about being back in Europe – specifically the 10th arrondissement in Paris – at Frenchie , the oh-so-French bistro that offers Euro-chic elegance with an inventive Australian flair. Indulge in the Date Night set menu, available every Thursday.

Peregrin is another stand-out. Listen to the sound of the ocean from the rooftop terrace, and order a Summertime Sour during aperitivo hour. Followed by the yellowfin tuna with pickled cucumber and market fish. And brand new on the scene is Papalote – a joint venture from the incredibly talented owners of Humbug and Flotilla serving up tasty Mexican classics.

3. Casual coastal cafes and kiosks

people swimming at Newcastle Ocean Baths — Follow Newcastle’s coastline for stunning views and tasty eats. (Image: David Diehm)

What better way to soak in Newcastle’s legendary coastline and stunning beaches than by visiting its casual coastal eateries while on the Bathers Way?

Enjoy hot chips and scallops on the sand at Swell Kiosk Bar Beach . Or a housemade sausage roll after a morning surf at Newcastle Beach, thanks to Southy Canteen , which is open from 6am.

Bring your furry travel companion to Sunnyboy Kiosk for a piccolo and puppuccino with views out to Dixon Park Beach. Try light eats, like acai bowls, or more substantial meals like nasi goreng at Blue Door in Merewether. Do a few lazy laps at Merewether Ocean Baths (the largest in the southern hemisphere) before tucking into swordfish skewers and salad at Merewether Surfhouse .

You can also watch the ocean compose a bit of magic from your perch at The Kiosk Newcastle Beach , where a matcha latte looks even better with the beach fresco.

Pause between eats to take in the iconic Newcastle Ocean Baths and Bogey Hole – perfect for a digestive swim or scenic picnic spot.

4. Hatted restaurants in Newcastle

couple eating at Flotilla newcastle — Flotilla serves up delicious meals. (Image: Destination NSW)

In recent years, Newcastle’s restaurant scene has evolved to include venues that have elevated the city’s reputation for culinary excellence. In addition to its cafes and kiosks, there’s now an exciting wave of hatted favourites putting Newcastle on the map.

Humbug is the epitome of Novocastrian dining; the mafaldine with brisket and beef cheek braised in Pedro Ximenez is emblematic of what the owners aim for here. Flotilla neatly knits the Newcastle wining and dining scene together, with young gun Josh Thurston showcasing the art of cooking proteins and produce over fire.

Bistro Penny is another sophisticated, hatted dining destination in Newcastle. Order the barbecued king prawns swimming in a saffron broth and the oxheart tomato salad.

5. Newcastle nightlife

Bartholomew's small bar in newcastle nsw — Stop by Bartholomew’s for a drink. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the sun dips in the west, so the city of Newcastle’s nightlife springs to life. Maru Hi-Fi is the next-gen small bar that’s redefining a night out in Newy – the sleek space serves great cocktails and embraces Newcastle’s alt attitude. Next door, Jams Karaoke & Bar is also bringing the vibes.

If a small bar in a grand old building is more your style, check out Roxanne , Bar Mellow and Bartholomew’s .

Start planning your Newcastle culinary coastal getaway this summer at visitnewcastle.com.au.

This underrated NSW hike takes you through 2 coastal national parks