This underrated NSW hike passes through 2 coastal national parks

This little-known coastal track is hiding in plain sight.

Tucked between South West Rocks and the sleepy surf hamlet of Hat Head lies a walking trail so wild and scenic, it cuts through not one but two coastal NSW national parks – and somehow still flies under the radar.

The Smoky Cape Range Walking Track is the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned your morning coffee. This 5.5-kilometre one-way track winds through a ridgeline flanked by Arakoon and Hat Head national parks, offering sweeping ocean views, rugged terrain, rainforest pockets and a side of convict history for good measure.

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone – this little-known walk is one of the most underrated on the Mid North Coast.

Two national parks, one unforgettable walk

Starting near the historic Overshot Dam at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park, the trail ascends through coastal heathlands, rainforests and grassy woodlands. As you traverse the ridge, you’ll transition into Hat Head National Park, where the landscape shifts to lush rainforests and expansive ocean vistas. The trail culminates at the iconic Smoky Cape Lighthouse, perched dramatically above the Pacific Ocean.

This walk is not just a physical journey but also a cultural one. The land holds deep significance for the Dunghutti people, the Traditional Custodians of the area. Walking through these parks offers a chance to reflect on the rich Aboriginal heritage and the natural beauty that has been preserved for generations.

Wildlife and seasonal spectacles

Eastern grey kangaroo at sunset beachside camping with great fishing and beaches perfect for whale watching and swimming in Arakoon National Park — Spot wildlife on the walk. (Image: Nick Cubbin/DCCEEW)

Depending on the season, the trail offers different natural spectacles. In spring, the heathlands burst into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers, attracting a variety of bird species.

From May to November, the cliffs become prime vantage points for whale watching, as humpback and southern right whales migrate along the coast. Keep an eye out for wallabies, echidnas and the occasional goanna basking in the sun.

A lighthouse steeped in history

Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park — Smoky Cape Lighthouse is one of the state’s tallest. (Image: Jessica Robertson/DCCEEW)

Upon reaching the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, you’re greeted by one of the tallest lighthouses in NSW, built in 1891. This heritage-listed structure offers not only a sweeping 360-degree view of Hat Head National Park and the wild coast below but also a glimpse into maritime history.

For those interested in delving deeper, the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the lighthouse . Led by knowledgeable rangers, these 45-minute tours provide insights into the lighthouse’s history and operations. Tours are scheduled on select dates throughout the year, and bookings are essential.

Even better? There’s a car park nearby, so if you want to do the track one way, you can arrange a pick-up at the lighthouse end and make it a point-to-point hike instead of an out-and-back.

Stay a little longer

Kangaroo in front of Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park — You can stay at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. (Image: Robert Mulally/DCCEEW)

To fully immerse yourself in the area’s charm, consider staying at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages . This historic accommodation offers both bed and breakfast and self-contained options, providing a unique opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse precinct. Situated high above Smoky Beach, the cottages are perfect for whale watching in winter and enjoying the tranquillity of the national park year-round.

What to know before you go

Views of North Smoky Beach from Smoky Cape Lighthouse in Hat Head National Park, Arakoon — This walk is best suited for those with bushwalking experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

This is a Grade 4 trail, meaning it’s best suited to fit walkers with some bushwalking experience. You’ll want decent footwear, plenty of water and a charged phone with offline maps.

There’s not much signage, so download a trail map ahead of time or use AllTrails. It’s around two to three hours one-way if you take your time to stop at the scenic points (and you should).

Note: Limited mobile reception in some areas; plan accordingly.

Make a weekend of it

Screw Pine Trees (Pandanus tectorius var. australianus), also known as Beach Pandan or Breadfruit are scattered along the rocky headlands along the Little Bay to Smoky Cape track in Hat Head National Park — Make the most of your time in the region. (Image: John Spencer/DCCEEW)

South West Rocks is the perfect base for this walk, with beachfront holiday parks, cosy cabins and local cafes to refuel in after your hike. Add in a sunset swim at Trial Bay or a visit to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of Trial Bay Gaol, and you’ve got yourself one very memorable nature escape.

Not many walks let you cross between two national parks, pass a heritage lighthouse and feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. But this one does. And it’s right there, hiding in plain sight.

Discover vibrant culture and creativity, gorgeous nature spots and more in lively Newcastle.

Newcastle/Muloobinba has a lot going for it beyond its big skies and beautiful beaches. The city’s creative types are now heading downtown, taking over and transforming warehouses and terraces to offer a more alternative vibe. From its nightlife to secret swimming spots, art to architecture, here’s our insider’s guide to Newcastle in New South Wales.

1. Learn to sail on Newcastle Harbour

The harbour has always shaped Newcastle, so it seems like the most obvious place to start your weekend. Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club offers a range of programs that provide instruction for both novice and experienced sailors. This is an inspired classroom that sets off past the Honeysuckle Foreshore up the Hunter River, with views towards a seemingly infinite vista of blue stretching to the horizon. It’s the perfect way to savour your time by the sea. Other water activities include surfing, swimming in one of the secret ocean baths or whale-watching with CoastXP .

Aerial view of Newcastle Harbour. — Join Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club’s programs. (Image: City of Newcastle)

2. Underground jazz scene

Follow the lively sound of the saxophone bubbling up to find The Underground . The popular basement-level bar, with its dim lighting and speakeasy aesthetic, schedules live jazz performances every Tuesday and Thursday. Newcastle is known around the country for supporting live music and this late-night New York-style jazz bar is, like the city itself, both approachable and sophisticated. For fans of live music, Queen’s Wharf Hotel , King Street Newcastle , Mad Poet and The Lucky Hotel are all popular pubs for their roster of live music.

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3. The city as a canvas

The streets of Newcastle present like an outdoor art gallery , adding beauty to the everyday with large-scale works by artists such as Fintan Magee, Inari Meyers, Tom Henderson and Sophia Flegg. Hire a Flash E-bike and pedal around the streets to find treasures such as Bronte Naylor’s Mirror Ocean in Civic Square or Sky & Ocean at South Newcastle Beach Skate Park. You can also join Newy Tour Co.’s Discover Newcastle tour to explore city highlights, architectural gems and street art with an expert guide.

Friends take in Newcastle Street Art. — Admire stunning works of art displayed all around you. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. An artist’s view of Newcastle

There’s a real sense of optimism around Newcastle, stemming from its many grassroots art galleries and organisations. The city is home to an eclectic array of artists who gravitate toward different mediums; see their works on show at independent galleries such as The Lock-Up , which operated as a police station from 1861 until 1982, and Lighthouse Arts Newcastle in the light-filled cottages on Nobbys Head/Whibayganba. Stop by The Creator Incubator to see the Little and Big gallery spaces. Newcastle Art Gallery will soon reopen after a recent expansion, so keep an eye out.

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5. Newcastle after dark

The small bars confetti’d around Newcastle are a sign of the times. Visitors to the compact city will find a concentration of bars within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail. The after-dark experience, which includes theatre and live music, is designed for visitors who are in search of the offbeat and want to celebrate the city’s creativity. Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, the bars that dot most neighbourhoods will tempt you with everything from happy hour to their alt attitude.

A bartender expertly crafting a drink, with a stunning library of spirits in the background. — Enjoy a night out at a lively bar. (Image: City of Newcastle)

6. Indulge in great gastronomy

Newcastle’s proximity to the Hunter Valley has helped establish it as a sophisticated getaway for gourmands with a passion for provenance. Dining options in the city are diverse, with everything from casual cafes to cantina-style Mexican eateries such as Antojitos , through to fine diners such as Flotilla and Jana Restaurant & Bar at QT Newcastle . Visit during Newcastle Food Month to get a snapshot of the local culinary scene – you can take note of the many world-class restaurants and cafes that warrant a return visit. Humbug , Peregrin and Bistro Penny should also be on your radar.

The dining area at Flotilla in Newcastle NSW. — Savour a world-class dining experience at Flotilla. (Image: Flotilla)

7. Crystalbrook Kingsley

Crystalbrook Kingsley is another great example of Newcastle’s new wow factor. Staying at the hotel – in the heart of the cultural centre – makes exploring a breeze, with vintage bikes for guests who want to check out the city streets on two wheels. The design-savvy Crystalbrook Collection reimagined the Roundhouse building while adhering to its ethos of sustainable luxury. The hotel is also a magnet for foodies, with the rooftop Roundhouse restaurant and cocktail bar, Romberg’s, two of the best spots in the city for wining and dining.

The Roundhouse by Crystalbrook Collection. — Step into the reworked Roundhouse by Crystalbrook. (Image: Crystalbrook Kingsley)

8. Newcastle’s creative side on show

Save the date for New Annual , a festival of art, music and ideas from 26 September – 5 October. The program is jam-packed with 10 days of art, culture and creativity. This year’s festival will celebrate the power art has to connect people. Expect to see a diverse program including music, theatre, workshops, and performances in iconic Newcastle locations. Visitors will find a concentration of events within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail.

Dancers performing gracefully, accompanied by a live orchestra. — Celebrate migration, community and belonging at New Annual.

Plan your next trip to offbeat Newcastle.

This underrated NSW hike takes you through 2 coastal national parks