Lightning Ridge: coffee, black opals and outback adventure

Lightning Ridge may be the Black Opal capital of Australia serving up quirky characters and bizarre adventures. But it now comes with a side of great coffee.

Bruno's Italian Restaurant and Takeaway, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Bruno’s is one of the two great Italian eateries that surprises most visitors to Lightning Ridge. (Image: Destination NSW)

Some people used to say that outback towns this far from ‘civilization’ could only serve lacklustre takeaway food and intolerable instant coffee, but there is no trace of that myth today in Lightning Ridge.

Real Coffee in the Outback

The north-western NSW town’s foodie offering is robust, buoyed by a duo of Italian restaurants and a trio of cafes – Opal Street , Morilla’s and Busy Bee – that actually do ‘real’ coffee. Yes, real specialty coffee in the outback.

Morilla's Cafe Coffee Shop, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Good coffee found in Lightning Ridge; Morilla’s is one of a handful of great cafe’s in the outback town. (Image: Destination NSW)

While ‘the Ridge’ has all the creature comforts and punches well above its culinary weight for a town well, exact population unknown, perish the thought that it has ‘sold out’ and become a bush Bondi or outback Fitzroy.

Oh no, Lightning Ridge has been and always will be powered by its ragtag collection of colourful, untameable personalities. People who famously came for a week and stayed for a lifetime because the blue, green and red fire of those black opals wedged in their mind’s eye.

Lightning Ridge’s Arts tail

Their often inexplicable stories manifest in unlikely ways everywhere you look in this free-range town. On the outskirts, 18-metre-tall Stanley the Emu greets you from the roadside.

John Murray Art Gallery, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — No visit to Lightning Ridge is complete without dropping by and checking John Murray Art Gallery. (Image: Destination NSW)

Creator of this VW-Beetle-bodied ‘Big Thing’, local artist John Murray, embodies the Ridge’s ‘Back o’ Buggery’ bush spirit. His whimsical ‘realism’-style paintings embrace the outback hues and ‘human folly’ of the Ridge, on display to browse and buy at John Murray Art Gallery on Opal Street.

A deeper understanding of Lightning Ridge’s penchant for playing by its own rules can be gained at the Chambers of the Black Hand gallery (and opal shop).

Chambers of the Black Hand, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Chambers of the Black Hand is a remarkable place that symbolizes the creative and innovative side of ‘the Ridge’. (Image: Destination NSW)

The sandstone walls of Ron Canlin’s old opal mine have become an unlikely canvas for hundreds of carvings and murals, from tributes to Lord of the Rings and a subterranean Last Supper carving to a statue of Elvis Presley and an Egyptian chamber with ‘humorous hieroglyphics’. Send your kids cross-eyed by setting them the ‘Where’s-Wally?’ challenge.

Black Opal Capital of Australia

Perched on the cusp of an ancient inland Gondwana sea, Lightning Ridge is home to a perplexing array of options for visitors curious about black opals.

Take a stickybeak around aptly named Lunatic Hill Open Cut mine to see one of the richest sources of black opal ever found. You might even kick one up yourself. It’s now a fitting monument to the brave, foolhardy and occasionally jackpot-hitting miners.

Lost Sea Opals: Australian Black Opal, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Beautifully presented jewelries with wide variety of styles that you can choose from can be seen at Lost Sea Opals by designer Jo Lindsay. (Image: Destination NSW)

To see the finished products in their best light, check out the stunning creations of jeweller Jo Lindsay at Lost Sea Opals boutique. Witness the gems being cut and polished by a true craftswoman.

Lost Sea Opals, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Jewelry designs at Lost Sea Opals are inspired by the vivid colours and beauty of the opals. (Image: Destination NSW)

The earth here cradles some of the world’s rarest fossils and, excitingly, prized 100-million-year-old opalised fossils. But you have to know where to look so the Australian Opal Centre runs a limited number of seasonal fossil digs, in conjunction with the Australian Geographic Society. The six-day expeditions have uncovered some mind-blowing specimens, including Australia’s smallest dinosaur babies (book ahead).

Australian Opal Centre, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Known to house the world’s greatest public collection of Australian opal, learn more about opal, opalised fossils and mining at Australian Opal Centre. (Image: Destination NSW)

Plans for the new significant Australian Opal Centre building are cresting the horizon. The energy-efficient, two-storey structure will become an extraordinary national monument to Australia’s national gemstone.

Lightning Ridge’s distinctive architecture

The Ridge’s shanty-chic architecture is as colourful as the gemstones that funded it. Beer Can House – built by Gary and Pat Holms back in the days when we used to drink out of steel cans – and perhaps Lightning Ridge’s most recognisable structure, the Camelot-esque, ironstone-boulder Amigo’s Castle (made by Vittorio ‘Amigo’ Stefanato), are standouts in an ocean of eccentricity.

Amigo Castle, Lightning Ridge, Outback NSW, Australia — Part of the amazing Amigo Castle. Onsite is a yard full of drums and other unusual ‘collectibles’. (Image: Destination NSW)

Finding hidden gems among the sprawling labyrinth is a cinch for visitors, thanks to the distinctly Ridge-onian phenomena of coloured-coded car-door tours. Four self-drive safaris cover as much unconventionality as you can take (get your maps from the Lightning Ridge Visitor Information Centre, off Bill O’Brien Way).

See Lightning Ridge on a tour

To see if you can strike it lucky, Outback Opal Tours offers a comprehensive town tour (including an underground mine visit) and a full-day jaunt that ventures into ‘opal-rush’ territory, where folks live in camps without power or town water.

Glengarry Hilton, Lighting Ridge, NSW Australia — Enjoy a happy hour with a difference at the Glengarry Hilton.

Visiting the ‘Pubs in the Scrub’ of Grawin Opal Fields is a highlight. Beer and banter flow easily at the Sheepyard Inn , Grawin Club in the Scrub and the Glengarry Hilton . And, if you’re lucky (and game), you might even score a personal mine tour from a friendly patron.

Nettleton's First Shaft Lookout, Lightning Ridge, NSW Australia — Watch the sun setting and appreciate the view in the outback at Nettleton’s First Shaft Lookout. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the light begins to change, take a slow drive out of town, perch at Nettleton’s First Shaft Lookout, and witness sunset ignite the Coocoran Opal Fields. Then boomerang back into the Ridge to catch an under-the-stars “cinematic celebration of Lightning Ridge" at the SPARK Outdoor Cinematic Exhibition.

Artesian Bore Bath, Walgett NSW, Australia — Relax and unwind in the naturally heated outdoor Artesian Bore Bath. (Image: Destination NSW)

The perfect way to de-brief from a wild day in the north-west is to indulge in unpretentious Ridge-style wellness. Slink into the mineral-rich waters of the Artesian Bore Bath (a toasty 41 degrees) for a soothing soak in an open-air pool, while you reflect on a compelling day in astonishing Lightning Ridge – a place where the bizarre soon becomes normal and the normal bizarre.

To plan your holiday to Lightning Ridge, visit www.walgett.nsw.gov.au/tourism.

Underpinned by grassroots hospitality and award-winning organic produce, the Central Coast’s gastronomy scene is thriving, with the region quickly becoming one of the best destinations in NSW for epicures.

Revered for its rugged natural splendour and laid-back seaside charm, NSW’s Central Coast has soared in popularity in recent years, becoming a top choice for an affordable slice of weekend escapism for Sydneysiders. Just a short 45-minute drive north of Sydney, it’s the kind of place that, no matter how many times you visit, leaves you with the sense that there’s always more to uncover. But while the ocean pools, bushwalks and beaches have (rightly) taken the spotlight, it’s the Central Coast food offerings which have been quietly simmering in the background.

From fresh-as-it-gets seafood and juicy organic citrus you can pluck yourself, through to regenerative farming and reputable farm-to-fork dining, this coastal gem has become an idyllic foodie mecca. Here are some of the best ways to immerse yourself in grassroots hospitality and gastronomic glory on the NSW Central Coast.

vegetables in a basket at Bells Garden at Bells At Killcare — From picking your own, to farm-to-table, discover the best Central Coast food experiences. (Image: Remy Brand)

Central Coast oyster experiences

From humble grub to opulent delicacy, oysters have ascended into a league of their own. Epicureans are fascinated by them – willing to pay upwards of $35 per dozen (double at some of Sydney’s reputable fine dining restaurants) – and ‘shuck bars’ seem to be popping up at every milestone celebration.

But it’s rare to find places that really draw back the curtain on how they’re farmed and why everyone is mad for these molluscs. The Central Coast , however, is home to several of these venues. With its pristine waters, mild climate and nutrient-rich estuaries, it’s the perfect breeding ground for oysters.

Learn about oyster farming and, importantly, how to shuck them at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours . Nestled on the Hawkesbury River at Mooney Mooney, Sheridan Beaumont and her team offer a hands-on foodie experience where you can feast on dozens of oysters (white tablecloth and all) while wading through the calm waters. You can even bring your own bottle of bubbles to wash them down.

guests in the water for an experience at Sydney Oyster Farm - Central Coast food — Learn tricks of the trade at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours. (Image: Remy Brand)

Elevate your oyster knowledge even further by heading north over the Hawkesbury River Bridge to the Hawkesbury River Oyster Shed . Tour their scenic oyster leases and saltwater paddocks by boat to uncover the distinct characteristics of the Sydney rock oyster and creamy Pacific oyster. They’ve also partnered with Broken Bay Pearl Farm to offer a one-of-a-kind oyster and pearl farming guided tour, showcasing the Central Coast’s very own pearl oyster, the Broken Bay ‘Akoya’. But if you’re simply in the mood to devour a dozen delectable oysters while soaking in the tranquil river views, pull up a chair at the shed. It’s friendly in every sense of the word: pets, families and BYO welcome.

shucking oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm — Taste freshly shucked oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm. (Image: James Horan)

Central Coast farms to pick your own fruit

While the Central Coast is known for its breathtaking 40 beaches and 80-kilometre coastline, its lush hinterland is equally impressive – abundant with orchards and agriculturally rich farmland. And when it comes to the simple joy of picking your own fruit, the Central Coast is a ripe playground.

Family-owned Meliora Farm at Peats Ridge is an orchard that blends conventional, biodynamic and organic philosophies. Third-generation farmer Tim Kemp and his wife Elise are dedicated to honouring the family legacy by growing a rich variety of oranges, lemons, limes, mandarins and avocados. In late May, roam the sustainable and nutrient-dense property during ‘Pick Your Own’ weekends.

Eastcoast Beverages is another bountiful citrus orchard boasting over 60 hectares of fruit. From June you can learn about the cultivation of high-quality ingredients – like lemons, limes, grapefruit and oranges – by touring both the farm and factory before setting out and picking your own straight from the source. You can also sample an array of citrus-inspired sweet and savoury treats at their on-site cafe, Bambino’s .

If it’s just juicy oranges you’re after, Cedar Farm in Dooralong is a must-visit. Located about 30 minutes north of Peats Ridge, it features 15 flourishing orchards and over 3000 orange trees – with take-home bags during the season (from July) at low prices. Not bad for a fruity weekend haul.

woman picking oranges at Oranges at Dooralong — Pick your own citrus fruits on the Central Coast. (Image: James Vodicka)

Organic dining

What makes the Central Coast hinterland so special is the unwavering respect the communities have for their cherished backyard. Locally owned and operated farms are all striving for more sustainable practices and methods to both enhance biodiversity and reduce environmental impact, each with a heartwarming food philosophy.

The Food Farm in Wyong Creek believes good food is worth both the work and the wait. Devoted to regenerative farming, first-generation ‘farmily’ Tim Eyes and Hannah Greenshields are recognised for their grass-fed, grass-finished beef and pasture-raised, gold medal-winning chickens. With an open gate policy, The Food Farm encourages visitors to swing by and try some of their slow-grown produce at their small ‘honesty’ farm shop. With no staff, you can pick up a few quality cuts of meat and pasteurised eggs, leaving the owing amount in cash or via eftpos.

Keeping the spirit of generational organic farming alive is Fanelli Organics . Nestled in the Central Coast’s scenic and sleepy Mangrove Mountain, founders Eden and Louise Fanelli own over 45 hectares of plentiful farmland and orchards that produce a huge range of organic fruit and vegetables, like purple Dutch carrots, blood oranges, broccoli and Tuscan kale. A true home-grown operation, Fanelli Organics shares its fresh produce with local restaurants and community markets, including the beloved markets at Like Minds Cafe at Avoca Beach every Wednesday afternoon.

farmers holding fresh produce picked at Fanelli Organics — See where your food comes from at Fanelli Organics.

Paddock-to-plate dining

High-quality ingredients go hand in hand with premium dining, and the Central Coast is home to several paddock-to-plate restaurants that showcase its diverse and rich agriculture. Paired with warm, grassroots hospitality, there are culinary triumphs, new menus and revered chefs constantly popping up, putting the local dining scene firmly on the map.

Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce. Nestled in thick bushland with wraparound verandahs, floral gardens and an idyllic dam, the gourmet homestead and bakehouse is unlike any restaurant on the Central Coast. Here, head chef Reece Collins and his team serve up an impressive breakfast and lunch menu that oozes rustic charm. Pull up a comfy armchair on the expansive deck, listen to birdsong, and tuck into flavoursome dishes like the farmhouse Benedict with honey-cured ham, lemon myrtle hollandaise and Warrigal gremolata, or the hearty beef brisket pie with confit garlic potato purée and rainbow chard.

woman writing in notebook next to a table of food at Saddles, Central Coast food — Taste country-style cooking at Saddles. (Image: Destination NSW)

Delivering a slice of sophistication and luxury to the shores and bushland of Bouddi Peninsula is Bells at Killcare . One of the few boutique resorts on the Central Coast, it’s known for its premium service and five-star suites, as well as its bountiful kitchen gardens that boast an orchard, olive trees, avocado trees, free-range hens and a honey bee hive.

Cameron Cansdell has returned to Bells at Killcare as head chef, bringing his expertise to the casual yet refined menus that feature a raw bar with Oscietra caviar, freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters and Moreton Bay bugs, all served alongside optional matched wines. Sample some of Australia’s best regional wines and standout dishes, like roasted Wollemi duck with grilled leeks, rocket, grilled grapes and 10-year-aged balsamic, or the shareworthy salt-crusted snapper with herb salad and salsa, before roaming the picturesque gardens, wine in hand.

cocktail at Bells At Killcare — Sample incredible wine, cocktails and dishes at Bells At Killcare. (Image: Nikki To)

Plan your next visit to the delicious Central Coast.

Finding good coffee, black opals and adventure in Lightning Ridge.