The quirky outback delights of The Kidman Way

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There are possibly no two terms that are more emblematic of the Australian outback than heading at the ‘back o’ Bourke’ or going past the Black Stump.

Both of these have become colloquial shorthand for the remoteness and otherworldly allure of the outback experience as a whole and can be found on one majestic roadtrip through the heart of New South Wales.

The Kidman Way cuts a swath through central NSW from Jerilderie in the south to Bourke in the north and hides some rather fascinating offbeat and quintessentially outback towns. Here is our guide to finding the best on one of the state’s best road trips.

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Griffith & Surrounds

Carrathool & Surrounds

Cobar & Surrounds

Bourke & Surrounds

Sunset orchard in Griffith
Sun sets over a local orchard in Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

The 644-kilometre Kidman Way was named for pastoralist Sir Sidney Kidman, who in 1899 founded S. Kidman & Co, which would eventually become one of the world’s largest pastoral companies with land holdings estimated at anywhere between 220,000 kilometres square and 280,000 kilometres square – roughly the size of the entire United Kingdom, give or take – and long nurtured a vision for opening up the country’s vast inland.

The Paddle Vessel Jandra, Bourke
Jump onboard The Paddle Vessel Jandra and cruise down the Darling River in Bourke. (Image: Destination NSW)

Largely devoid of the ‘enterprise traffic’ of large trucks that clog many of Australia’s bitumen arteries, the Kidman Way is recognised as one of the country’s great outback drives.

Taking in the shires of Murrumbidgee, Griffith, Carrathool, Cobar and Bourke, the journey from one end to the other is best approached at a leisurely pace (plan on it taking at least five days), all the better to allow for ample time to appreciate the fascinating, quirky and largely undiscovered elements along the way.

Limone Dining, Griffith
Stop off at Griffith’s Limone Dining for a delicious feast. (Image: Destination NSW)

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Coleambally is the youngest town in New South Wales, having been founded in June 1968, and getting its very own post office on April 1, 1970.

 

The passion project of the Altin family, Altina Wildlife Park is a Nationally Accredited Exotic and Native Animal Breeding Facility dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction. Set out across 207 hectares of land on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River, the inhabitants here include everything from African crested porcupine to cheetah to red pandas to African lions, with plans for glamping and an expanded visitors centre well on their way. The personalised (and passionate) tour of the park on a horse-drawn carriage with staff leaves you in more awe of the ambition and work of this underappreciated Aussie gem.

Altina Wildlife Park, Altina
Altina Wildlife Park is dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction.

Jerilderie holds the distinction of being the only town in New South Wales raided by Ned Kelly in 1879 when, over a three-day stretch, he robbed the bank of more than £2000, locked the local police in their own cells, and held more than 30 hostages while shouting the bar at the Royal Mail Hotel, among other things. You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town, beginning at the Post and Telegraph Office and taking in 16 sites around town.

Ned Kelly Raid Trail, Jerilderie
You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Griffith & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Griffith’s City Park is home to the tallest climbing frame in the Southern Hemisphere (as well as a double flying fox and water splash park).

 

Water is the lifeblood of Griffith. John Oxley, an explorer back in 1817 dismissed the Griffith region as being ‘uninhabitable and useless to civilised man’. The Murrumbidgee Irrigation scheme was established in 1912 following construction of the Burrinjuck Dam, Berembed Weir and 139 kilometres of irrigation canals. This enabled Griffith to become a thriving oasis and the food bowl of Australia.

Life in Griffith revolves around food and wine. The town holds many festivals throughout the year showcasing the fruits of their labour. One of the quirkiest displays is the annual citrus sculptures during Spring Fest where more than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art.

The annual citrus sculptures, Griffith
More than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art. (Image: Andrew Mclean)

Griffith is one of Australia’s most vibrant cosmopolitan centres. With a population over 26,000, Griffith exudes a rich blend of culture and traditions, today more than 70 nationalities make up its cultural tapestry which includes Italian, Indian, Afghani and Pacific communities. Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. You can’t leave without enjoying a ‘rocket toppa’ pizza, a bowl of gnocchi and a cannoli. Leaving hungry is never an option.

Zecca restaurant, Griffith
Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. (Image: Karly Sivewright)

Carrathool & Surrounds

Quirky fact: The Black Stump Hotel in Merriwagga has the tallest bar in the Southern Hemisphere; in a precursor to the traditional drive through, the bar here was a ride through, said to be built so that local stockmen could ride their horses up to the bar and order a drink without dismounting.

 

Part outdoor gallery, part junkyard, Wally’s Junk Art Gallery at Rankins Springs, 75 kilometres from Griffith, is the domain of local artist Raymond Lamont, known to all as Wally.

His totally unique sculptures, everything from animals and airplanes to life-sized people, are created using all manner of vintage bits and pieces, from tractor and machinery parts to old railway plates to disused gas bottles and light bulbs. There’s a $6.50 entry fee, but you get a cup of coffee and a chat with Wally for free!

 

Situated in a valley of the Cocoparra Ranges in Rankins Springs, Selby is a 3000 hectares-plus certified-organic farm owned by Ron and Andrea Finch, located near Rankins Springs.

You can stay the night in The Shack, the renovated shearers’ quarters, arriving to home-baked goodies (courtesy of Andrea) and feasting on a breakfast that includes farm fresh eggs (when the resident hens oblige). Spend your days walking, relaxing and feeding the sheep, and at night gaze at the sky to your heart’s content.

Mustering sheep at sunset, Carathool
Mustering sheep at sunset. (Image: G Rixon)

Cobar & Surrounds

Quirky fact: There are 99 countries in the world that are smaller than Cobar (total land size 45,609 kilometres square) including Switzerland, Denmark and Lebanon. Perhaps fittingly, Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid, a minted medallion that can be exchanged for goods and services at participating local businesses to encourage residents to shop local.

Cobar sign, Cobar
Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid.

Held in Cobar every April, the Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment. The roster of events includes a buffet dinner dance, picnic concert, markets, Sunday fun day and, of course, a parade. Dressing up is strongly recommended.

Grey Mardi Gras, Cobar
The Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment.

In its heyday, the Great Cobar Copper Mine was processing ore at a staggering rate of 1000 tons per day, employed 2000 people and provided lighting for the whole town via its electric generators. There’s a museum to visit at the now retired site, and you can see the main mine shaft nearby (now fenced off) which plunges down to 430 metres.

Great Cobar Copper Mine, Cobar
The Great Cobar Copper Mine at sunset.

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Bourke & Surrounds

Quirky fact: It was the Scottish/Australian poet Will Ogilvie, a contemporary of Banjo Paterson and Henry Lawson (and friend of Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant), who coined the now iconic term ‘back o’ Bourke’ in his poem, At the back o’ Bourke.

 

The grave of the bushranger Midnight, who was shot and killed on 2 October 1878, can be found to the west of the village of Enngonia. Midnight, also known as Thomas/Alexander Law, George Gibson and Henry Wilson, was responsible for the murder of Senior Sergeant Thomas Wallings, a father of eight children, who was shot while attempting to capture the bushranger after his escape from Parramatta Gaol.

Aerial view over Bourke
An aerial view over Bourke.

But this wasn’t the first shoot out to take place in Enngonia; on October 6, 1868 the notorious bushranger Captain Starlight (real name Frank Pearson) was involved in a gun fight at the Shearer’s Inn during which he shot Constable John McCabe after the trooper confronted him and fellow bushranger Charles Rutherford.

The officer died almost a month later from his injuries, and Pearson was found hiding in cave in December; the details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Back-O-Bourke-gallery, Bourke
The details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Gundabooka National Park. The headliner here is the Mulgowan (Yappa) Aboriginal Art site walking track, with stunning rock paintings by the local Ngemba and Paakandji people depicting animals, dancers, hand stencils and hunting tools.

Having conquered the track, spend a little extra time to check out the nearby Gundabooka Range and Mulareenya Creek, where traditional ceremonies were once held.

It’s not an Aussie drive worth writing about if there isn’t something ‘big’ to wonder at along the way.

Given its reputation as a top quality yabby fishing spot, it was only a matter for time before a giant version of the crustacean cropped up on the landscape, specifically on the Warrego River at Fords Bridge.

Stop for a photo and then grab lunch at the nearby Warrego Hotel, built in 1913 from mud brick, the only pub of its type thought to be still standing.

Catania Fruit Salad Farm, Griffith
Driving through Catania Fruit Salad Farm, near Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

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8 reasons it’s time to explore Lismore’s vibrant villages

(Image: Visit Lismore)

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    Think you know Lismore? Think again. From pop-up feasts to a buzzing nightlife to a thriving arts scene, discover a new side of the Northern Rivers.

    Scratch beneath the surface of Lismore and its surrounding villages and you’ll discover a side of the Northern Rivers many travellers don’t expect. Here lies a region bursting with creativity, where vibrant street art, innovative eateries and enriching cultural experiences shape everyday life. Best of all, it’s authentic, and can be enjoyed without the crowds. Here are eight reasons why it deserves a closer look.

    1. Nights come to life

    Lismore's vibrant villages have Patrons enjoying a night out at Eltham Hotel.
    Stay out a little longer and experience the vibrant nightlife. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Lismore region stirs after the sun sets, with wine bars, pub gigs, pop-up dinners and live music events at atmospheric country pubs and halls. The Eltham Hotel is a hinterland institution, its verandah regularly echoing with rootsy live music. Nimbin Bush Theatre’s Sonic Bloom nights bring pop-up dinners, films and DJ sets. The Channon Tavern hosts weekend sessions, while Il Carretto’s pizza nights fill Clunes Cafe on Thursday nights and Bexhill Hall on Fridays. Rider Taco Pop Up also brings a laid-back Mexican feast to Clunes, where guests spread out on the grass or gather in the old hall to share freshly made tacos.

    2. A thriving arts and culture scene

    Racing on Molesworth Steet, Lismore for the BBCC Lismore Cycling Festival. Lismore's vibrant villages is filled with murals.
    Follow the Art & Culture Trail. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Northern Rivers has long attracted artists, makers and free thinkers, and nowhere is that creative energy more evident than in Lismore and its neighbouring hamlets. The city’s Art & Culture Trail shines a spotlight on the city’s flourishing arts scene, linking galleries, studios and public art across the region. Start at the Lismore Regional Gallery, which has a dynamic mix of contemporary works and community-focused exhibitions. Also keep an eye out for events at The Quad, an open-air space that lights up with live music, projections and family-friendly events. Beyond the city, discover the colourful street murals of Nimbin, browse local art at Blue Knob Gallery or get your hands dirty during a clay workshop at Silt Studio.

    3. Boutique shopping

    Inside Two Ravens Antiques & Collectables in Lismore's vibrant villages.
    Uncover one-of-a-kind finds. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    For travellers who love discovering independent labels and one-of-a-kind finds, Lismore and its nearby villages offer a treasure trove of boutiques. Here, you’ll find everything from clothes and hand-crafted trinkets to books and homewares, each store reflecting the personality of its makers and curators. Highlights include Hanging Rock Flowers, where seasonal blooms meet beautifully chosen artisan gifts, and Two Ravens Antique and Vintage, where a collection of objects whisper stories of the past. Little Polli and the Blackbird offers whimsical fashion and homewares, while Folk Modern champions eclectic textiles and global finds and Valley of the Craftsmen showcases refined handmade artistry.

    4. Diverse food offerings

    Bartenders at the The Levee Lounge and Bar, Lismore
    Settle in for an evening of great drinks and live tunes. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore’s dining scene is celebrated for its paddock-to-plate produce, global cuisines and cafe culture. At Two Mates Brewing small-batch beers are crafted for easy afternoons, often best enjoyed with a food truck bite, while The Levee Lounge and Bar brings a touch of Melbourne-style polish to town, with cocktails and wine served against the hum of live music.

    Heritage bones meet a modern buzz at The Bank Cafe & Espresso, while smoked meats and fried chicken take centre stage at The Stockpot Kitchen. Housed in a former butter factory, Channon Tavern is the ideal place to while away the day on the grass by Terania Creek, and the The Eltham Hotel offers an upscale food menu with old school charm.

    Find Annies Country Bakery in Modanville on Lismore’s Great Pie Trail, serving award-winning pies, open every day, it’s a great stop on a scenic drive on route to nearby national parks and Rocky Creek Dam. Or pop into Clunes Cafe for regular hosted dinners, each with its own unique flair. Listen to live music while you’re there, and maybe even join in a line dance.

    5. Alternative lifestyles reign

    Streetscape of Nimbin with buskers, Northern Rivers
    Discover a place where freedom, art and community are part of everyday life. (Image: The Legendary Pacific Coast)

    This area has long been a free-spirited community, where counterculture values and creative expression shape everyday life. Its roots trace back to the 1973 Aquarius Festival, when thousands gathered in the hills near Nimbin and the one-time dairy town’s once-quiet streets were painted in kaleidoscopic colour. Many never left, establishing communes and laying the foundations of a community built on sustainability and freedom. Events such as the annual Nimbin MardiGrass festival keep its activist, grassroots spirit alive, while continuing to welcome diverse travellers in search of something a little different.

    6. Breathtaking nature on the doorstep

    Person enjoying a walk through the rainforest in Nightcap National Park.
    Step into a world of ancient forests. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore acts as the gateway to some of Australia’s most spectacular ancient Gondwana rainforests and untouched wilderness. Nearby Nightcap National Park offers UNESCO-listed rainforest walks and waterfalls, while Rocky Creek Dam is a tranquil spot for picnics and birdlife – and you may even spot a platypus if your timing is right. Whian Whian State Conservation Area reveals lush subtropical trails and hidden swimming holes, while the Northern Rivers Rail Trail winds through farmland and forest, passing historic railway bridges along the way.

    7. Boutique stays

    Contained in Nimbin Accommodation.
    Experience award-winning eco stays. (Image: Contained in Nimbin)

    Accommodation in the Lismore region tends to favour character over gloss, with stays that trade uniform luxury for a stronger sense of place and personality. Lismore Gateway Motel and Invercauld House offer easy comfort close to Lismore CBD, while The Eltham Hotel pairs a lively pub atmosphere with individually designed rooms that reflect the building’s heritage character. Nightcap Ridge secluded luxury eco retreat and Rummery Park Campground in Whian Whian State Conservation Area, and Contained in Nimbin’s award-winning eco cabins, all bring you closer to nature.

    8. Form community connections

    Crowds enjoying the Lismore Lantern Parade on the North Coast.
    Celebrate winter solstice at the Lismore Lantern Parade. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    If you are wanting to immerse yourself more in the community, there are some standout events that embrace Lismore’s individuality. Lismore is known for its markets, so they’re a great place to start. The fire twirling at Lismore’s weekly Thursday produce markets makes for a particularly fun spectacle.

    Friday Meet and Make offers relaxed crafting at The Artisans Table, while Fire Twirling in The Quad delivers a high energy evening spectacle. The legendary Tropical Fruits New Years Eve Festival is a bold celebration of inclusion; Lismore Lantern Parade glows through streets with handmade lanterns on the winter solstice and Italian festival LisAmore! brings music and romance to the town.

    Start planning the ultimate getaway at visitlismore.com.au