The quirky outback delights of The Kidman Way

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There are possibly no two terms that are more emblematic of the Australian outback than heading at the ‘back o’ Bourke’ or going past the Black Stump.

Both of these have become colloquial shorthand for the remoteness and otherworldly allure of the outback experience as a whole and can be found on one majestic roadtrip through the heart of New South Wales.

The Kidman Way cuts a swath through central NSW from Jerilderie in the south to Bourke in the north and hides some rather fascinating offbeat and quintessentially outback towns. Here is our guide to finding the best on one of the state’s best road trips.

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Griffith & Surrounds

Carrathool & Surrounds

Cobar & Surrounds

Bourke & Surrounds

Sunset orchard in Griffith
Sun sets over a local orchard in Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

The 644-kilometre Kidman Way was named for pastoralist Sir Sidney Kidman, who in 1899 founded S. Kidman & Co, which would eventually become one of the world’s largest pastoral companies with land holdings estimated at anywhere between 220,000 kilometres square and 280,000 kilometres square – roughly the size of the entire United Kingdom, give or take – and long nurtured a vision for opening up the country’s vast inland.

The Paddle Vessel Jandra, Bourke
Jump onboard The Paddle Vessel Jandra and cruise down the Darling River in Bourke. (Image: Destination NSW)

Largely devoid of the ‘enterprise traffic’ of large trucks that clog many of Australia’s bitumen arteries, the Kidman Way is recognised as one of the country’s great outback drives.

Taking in the shires of Murrumbidgee, Griffith, Carrathool, Cobar and Bourke, the journey from one end to the other is best approached at a leisurely pace (plan on it taking at least five days), all the better to allow for ample time to appreciate the fascinating, quirky and largely undiscovered elements along the way.

Limone Dining, Griffith
Stop off at Griffith’s Limone Dining for a delicious feast. (Image: Destination NSW)

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Coleambally is the youngest town in New South Wales, having been founded in June 1968, and getting its very own post office on April 1, 1970.

 

The passion project of the Altin family, Altina Wildlife Park is a Nationally Accredited Exotic and Native Animal Breeding Facility dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction. Set out across 207 hectares of land on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River, the inhabitants here include everything from African crested porcupine to cheetah to red pandas to African lions, with plans for glamping and an expanded visitors centre well on their way. The personalised (and passionate) tour of the park on a horse-drawn carriage with staff leaves you in more awe of the ambition and work of this underappreciated Aussie gem.

Altina Wildlife Park, Altina
Altina Wildlife Park is dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction.

Jerilderie holds the distinction of being the only town in New South Wales raided by Ned Kelly in 1879 when, over a three-day stretch, he robbed the bank of more than £2000, locked the local police in their own cells, and held more than 30 hostages while shouting the bar at the Royal Mail Hotel, among other things. You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town, beginning at the Post and Telegraph Office and taking in 16 sites around town.

Ned Kelly Raid Trail, Jerilderie
You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Griffith & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Griffith’s City Park is home to the tallest climbing frame in the Southern Hemisphere (as well as a double flying fox and water splash park).

 

Water is the lifeblood of Griffith. John Oxley, an explorer back in 1817 dismissed the Griffith region as being ‘uninhabitable and useless to civilised man’. The Murrumbidgee Irrigation scheme was established in 1912 following construction of the Burrinjuck Dam, Berembed Weir and 139 kilometres of irrigation canals. This enabled Griffith to become a thriving oasis and the food bowl of Australia.

Life in Griffith revolves around food and wine. The town holds many festivals throughout the year showcasing the fruits of their labour. One of the quirkiest displays is the annual citrus sculptures during Spring Fest where more than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art.

The annual citrus sculptures, Griffith
More than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art. (Image: Andrew Mclean)

Griffith is one of Australia’s most vibrant cosmopolitan centres. With a population over 26,000, Griffith exudes a rich blend of culture and traditions, today more than 70 nationalities make up its cultural tapestry which includes Italian, Indian, Afghani and Pacific communities. Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. You can’t leave without enjoying a ‘rocket toppa’ pizza, a bowl of gnocchi and a cannoli. Leaving hungry is never an option.

Zecca restaurant, Griffith
Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. (Image: Karly Sivewright)

Carrathool & Surrounds

Quirky fact: The Black Stump Hotel in Merriwagga has the tallest bar in the Southern Hemisphere; in a precursor to the traditional drive through, the bar here was a ride through, said to be built so that local stockmen could ride their horses up to the bar and order a drink without dismounting.

 

Part outdoor gallery, part junkyard, Wally’s Junk Art Gallery at Rankins Springs, 75 kilometres from Griffith, is the domain of local artist Raymond Lamont, known to all as Wally.

His totally unique sculptures, everything from animals and airplanes to life-sized people, are created using all manner of vintage bits and pieces, from tractor and machinery parts to old railway plates to disused gas bottles and light bulbs. There’s a $6.50 entry fee, but you get a cup of coffee and a chat with Wally for free!

 

Situated in a valley of the Cocoparra Ranges in Rankins Springs, Selby is a 3000 hectares-plus certified-organic farm owned by Ron and Andrea Finch, located near Rankins Springs.

You can stay the night in The Shack, the renovated shearers’ quarters, arriving to home-baked goodies (courtesy of Andrea) and feasting on a breakfast that includes farm fresh eggs (when the resident hens oblige). Spend your days walking, relaxing and feeding the sheep, and at night gaze at the sky to your heart’s content.

Mustering sheep at sunset, Carathool
Mustering sheep at sunset. (Image: G Rixon)

Cobar & Surrounds

Quirky fact: There are 99 countries in the world that are smaller than Cobar (total land size 45,609 kilometres square) including Switzerland, Denmark and Lebanon. Perhaps fittingly, Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid, a minted medallion that can be exchanged for goods and services at participating local businesses to encourage residents to shop local.

Cobar sign, Cobar
Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid.

Held in Cobar every April, the Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment. The roster of events includes a buffet dinner dance, picnic concert, markets, Sunday fun day and, of course, a parade. Dressing up is strongly recommended.

Grey Mardi Gras, Cobar
The Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment.

In its heyday, the Great Cobar Copper Mine was processing ore at a staggering rate of 1000 tons per day, employed 2000 people and provided lighting for the whole town via its electric generators. There’s a museum to visit at the now retired site, and you can see the main mine shaft nearby (now fenced off) which plunges down to 430 metres.

Great Cobar Copper Mine, Cobar
The Great Cobar Copper Mine at sunset.

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Bourke & Surrounds

Quirky fact: It was the Scottish/Australian poet Will Ogilvie, a contemporary of Banjo Paterson and Henry Lawson (and friend of Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant), who coined the now iconic term ‘back o’ Bourke’ in his poem, At the back o’ Bourke.

 

The grave of the bushranger Midnight, who was shot and killed on 2 October 1878, can be found to the west of the village of Enngonia. Midnight, also known as Thomas/Alexander Law, George Gibson and Henry Wilson, was responsible for the murder of Senior Sergeant Thomas Wallings, a father of eight children, who was shot while attempting to capture the bushranger after his escape from Parramatta Gaol.

Aerial view over Bourke
An aerial view over Bourke.

But this wasn’t the first shoot out to take place in Enngonia; on October 6, 1868 the notorious bushranger Captain Starlight (real name Frank Pearson) was involved in a gun fight at the Shearer’s Inn during which he shot Constable John McCabe after the trooper confronted him and fellow bushranger Charles Rutherford.

The officer died almost a month later from his injuries, and Pearson was found hiding in cave in December; the details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Back-O-Bourke-gallery, Bourke
The details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Gundabooka National Park. The headliner here is the Mulgowan (Yappa) Aboriginal Art site walking track, with stunning rock paintings by the local Ngemba and Paakandji people depicting animals, dancers, hand stencils and hunting tools.

Having conquered the track, spend a little extra time to check out the nearby Gundabooka Range and Mulareenya Creek, where traditional ceremonies were once held.

It’s not an Aussie drive worth writing about if there isn’t something ‘big’ to wonder at along the way.

Given its reputation as a top quality yabby fishing spot, it was only a matter for time before a giant version of the crustacean cropped up on the landscape, specifically on the Warrego River at Fords Bridge.

Stop for a photo and then grab lunch at the nearby Warrego Hotel, built in 1913 from mud brick, the only pub of its type thought to be still standing.

Catania Fruit Salad Farm, Griffith
Driving through Catania Fruit Salad Farm, near Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)
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7 great day trips from your Coffs Coast homebase

    Meredith Bryan Meredith Bryan
    Make this dazzling stretch of beaches and natural wonders your home base for a grand adventure

    Whether you’re setting out solo, bringing a mate, or packing in the whole family, no road trip along Australia’s East Coast is complete without at least a few days spent exploring the Coffs Coast. A stunning stretch of NSW coastline nestled between ancient high-elevation rainforests and magnificent, undiscovered beaches, Coffs offers amazing biodiversity, stunning natural beauty, and heaps of local charm, without the crowds. Pull up in Coffs Harbour, your perfect home base for these unforgettable day-trips.

    1. Southern Beaches

    The Coffs region boasts 30 of Australia’s most beautiful, unspoiled beaches, directly abutting a dramatic tableau of mountains and rainforests. Drive South of Coffs Harbour to find up-and-coming surf destinations where it’s still possible to catch an empty wave. First up is the picturesque Sawtell village. Wander the famous fig-tree-lined main street packed with laid-back places to eat and drink. Enjoy panoramic views and seasonal whale sightings at Bonville Headland on the Southern end of the beach.

    Nearby Bongil Bongil National Park boasts seven kilometres of empty beach, along with hiking and cycling trails through beachfront rainforests – keep an eye out for koalas living in the trees. Boambee Beach and Boambee Creek Reserve are great for families, with shallow waters perfect for kayaking and SUPing, plus an off-leash dog beach.

    family eating lunch in sawtell
    Experience small-town charm in Sawtell.

    2. Orara Valley Tourist Trail

    The Orara Valley Tourist Trail has it all: hinterland bushwalks, birdwatching, horse riding, pristine swimming holes and rolling green pastures dotted with dairy farms and historic villages. And it’s only 15 minutes west of Coffs Harbour.

    Sample produce at a roadside stall, stop into Coramba Hotel for a quintessential country pub lunch, or try the Idle in Cafe in Nana Glen for coffee and scones. Then spend the afternoon kayaking the Orara River or mountain biking on Mt Coramba. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow the 4WD touring route along the Orara Escarpment in Bindarri National Park, a rugged landscape with dazzling views that winds through untouched eucalypt rainforests and waterfalls.

    A family sitting by the Orara Valley Tourist Trail.
    Explore the green heart of Coffs.

    3. Dorrigo National Park

    Enjoy a classic day trip from Coffs to forest bathe in some of the oldest subtropical rainforests in the world at Dorrigo National Park, part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests. These million-year-old ecosystems promise rare bird sightings, towering strangler figs, and epic walking tracks and picnic spots. Try the 6.6 km Wonga Walk to experience dreamy Crystal Shower Falls (where you can walk behind the falls) and the Skywalk Lookout, which offers spectacular views of the valley and coast. Then stop in Dorrigo town for a homey lunch. It’s worth noting that a section of the road between Ulong and Dorrigo – which dates to the 1880s – is unsealed, adding to the area’s end-of-the-earth allure but making travel difficult in adverse weather conditions. Alternatively, head to Dorrigo via the delightful township of Bellingen.

    Three people standing at the SkyWalk lookout.
    Wander the Skywalk.

    4. Northern Beaches

    For another tranquil expanse of sun, sand and surf breaks, head north to Woolgoolga (Tourism Australia’s Best Mainland Beach for 2025. Taste the coffee and local-produce breakfast at one of several cafes, then spot whales during their migration season along the Woolgoolga Whale Trail to the headland. Emerald Beach offers clear blue waters and another headland walk, perfect for taking in views of South Solitary Island, a dramatically rocky-cliffed island with a historic lighthouse. Red Rock, some 40km north of Coffs and named for its striking coastal rock formations, boasts a gorgeous estuary reserve that’s perfect for languorous days spent picnicking, swimming, fishing, and connecting with the relaxed local pace.

    Freshly caught seafood by the beach, with sparkling ocean views.
    Enjoy fresh seafood overlooking Woolgoolga Beach.

    5. Jetty precinct

    You could easily spend a whole day exploring the Jetty precinct – from its foreshores to the marina to Muttonbird Island. Start with fresh fish and chips from local institution Coffs Harbour Fisherman’s Co-op, before browsing the popular Harbourside Markets held every Sunday on the foreshores.

    Take a scenic walk along the breakwall to Muttonbird Island, a cultural and ecological treasure with panoramic views and rich Gumbaynggirr heritage. The Giidany Miirlarl Education Space shares the island’s ancient stories, or join a guided moonlight tour to see the seasonal return of the muttonbirds.

    Back at the Jetty Strip, find a buzzing mix of cafes, bars and restaurants with cuisines from around the world, open from morning until late. Don’t miss The Jetty Pavilion, a favourite for its unique menu blending modern Australian cuisine with vibrant world flavours.

    walk to muttonbird island from coffs harbour
    Walk the path where land meets sea and sky.

    6. Grafton

    Head inland from mid-October to early November to catch Grafton’s jacaranda season, when the town’s streets and parks are covered in purple. Even better, time your trip between 24 October and 2 November to attend the famous Jacaranda Festival, with special food items, performances and more. At any time of year, follow the self-guided Grafton Heritage Trail to discover the town’s historic buildings, landmarks and stories. Or get the blood pumping with a trip along the longest mapped white-water trail in Australia – the Clarence Canoe and Kayak Trail. Book a tour with Exodus Adventures.

    woman walking through jacaranda trees in grafton
    Time your Grafton trip to see the jacarandas in full bloom. (Image: @myclarencevalley)

    7. Nambucca

    Just south of Coffs Harbour sits Nambucca, the ideal town for a relaxed, coastal day trip. Hire a canoe, kayak or boat to explore over 80 kilometres of waterways stretching from the hinterland to the ocean. For those who prefer to stay on dry land (or double up their adventure for the day), stretch your legs along the V-Wall – a scenic coastal walk along the Nambucca River – dotted with boulders painted by the community, sharing messages, art and local stories. Stop along the way to buy Sydney rock oysters direct from local farmers, or try your own hand at fishing. Before heading back to Coffs, refuel on fresh seafood and wood-fired pizzas at Matilda’s in Nambucca.

    a boat zooming through Nambucca Heads
    Explore Nambucca’s waterways. (Image: Seen Australia)

    Visit coffscoast.com and download the Coffs Coast Explorer App for more daytrips and trails.