A night in the new Wildlife Retreat at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo

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Privileged access to the creatures of the bush – and the jungle – comes with luxe inclusions, expansive harbour views and a conscience.

It’s every child’s dream come true, to be locked inside a zoo once the gates have closed and the visitors have all gone home. And I’m living it. There is nothing nefarious about how I have found myself within the grounds of Sydney’s celebrated Taronga Zoo after dark; rather it is all well conceived and purposeful.

The back story

I am a guest at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga , a new 62-room eco-retreat owned and operated by the Taronga Conservation Society Australia. It’s a privileged position to be in but a necessary one: as zoos around the world attempt to stay relevant in an age when our senses are heightened to the indignation of keeping majestic animals in enclosures, it is this melding of experience and education – with luxury inclusions and multimillion-dollar views thrown in for good measure – that is designed to ensure the future of places like Taronga, not to mention the vital work it does in conservation (another essential element to any zoo’s trope in the 21st century).

 

With compelling and necessary stories of conservation and citizen science to tell, it is pleasing that Taronga Conservation Society Australia has put such time and consideration into the Wildlife Retreat. Sitting on Cammeraigal country at the edge of Sydney Harbour, the five low-rise lodges, sustainably designed by leading Australian creatives Cox Architecture, sit surprisingly lightly within the environment. The accommodation ‘pods’ are clad in reconstituted timber and metal, their clean, modern lines softened with ample use of tactile blonde sandstone and native plantings.

 

In keeping with Taronga’s focus on sustainability, land care and social responsibility, advice was sought throughout the construction phase and will continue now it is up and running; the property is targeting a five-star Green Star rating.

The rooms are luxuriously appointed

First impressions

The convivial hub of the property is the ‘nest’, a vast central lounge that is drenched by afternoon sun, its floor-to-ceiling windows framing uninterrupted city views; when night falls the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and city skyline twinkle and dance in the inky darkness. Cosy indoor/outdoor seating areas abound, and there is a bar in the corner ready to supply sundowners at a whim.
While the design and appointments dazzle upon arrival, it is the Sanctuary that confirms the Wildlife Retreat’s intentions. A purpose-designed and built native habitat created exclusively for guests, the space allows for unique encounters with a menagerie of Australian native animals. With a guide/keeper leading the way, we weave through the space, pausing to watch as one of the two resident echidnas (old man Robbie and the younger Wednesday) laps up its dinner with its long, thin tongue, all the while watched over by a duo of shy Tammar wallabies. Encountering our totally unique animals never fails to give me goosebumps, and getting so close is a lump-in-the-throat honour.

Taronga wildlife retreat
Expansive views from the communal lounge

There are animals here I have never even heard of – the red-necked pademelon for one – and those that are instantly emblematic of our country: we finish by watching one of the resident koalas waddle from one tree to another, almost as if it is looking for a more advantageous position to admire the view.

 

Throughout the walk we meet various keepers immersed in facts about their furry charges, and hear stories of how we can make a difference to the future of each one: advice as simple as “plant a tree" to ensure the survival of our koala population has me planning which variety of gum I am going to buy at the garden centre.

 

And that’s the whole point of the Wildlife Retreat: above and beyond offering up a new luxury Sydney stay, this is a brilliantly realised concept in making a real difference to the world through a hearts and mind conversion of its guests.

One of the Sanctuary’s echidnas

The property

Each room they fill by offering up stylish accommodation, delicious food (the Me-Gal restaurant serves up a generous menu stacked with sustainable and local produce) and the opportunity to look into the eyes of a long-nosed potoroo results in another convert to the cause.

 

After a night spent listening to the whoops and squawks of the zoo’s birds, I rise to take an early morning tour around the grounds before the visitors arrive. While many of the animals are still slumbering, we pass by the gorilla enclosure to find two of the young males searching for their breakfast. I stand in silence and watch as they play, and feel the privilege of my exclusive access, and the responsibility that comes with it.

An en suite bathroom with a nature aspect

Details

Staying there

An overnight stay at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga is priced from $790 for two adults and includes a two-course dinner, buffet breakfast, exclusive immersive animal experiences and complimentary general admission to the zoo. Proceeds from each and every stay support Taronga’s ongoing work caring for animals within its two zoos here in Australia (Taronga Zoo Sydney and Taronga Western Plains Zoo in Dubbo), as well as through conservation programs around the world.

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No time to hibernate: experience the best of winter in NSW

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

a beach winter in nsw
From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

The Tweed

In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre , which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .

visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre
Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

dining room at Bistro Livi
Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

Blue Mountains

The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing
Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains
End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Southern Highlands

Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral
Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral
Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

Penrith

Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

kayakers on the nepean river in penrith
Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

Pullman Penrith
Set yourself up at Pullman Penrith.

Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.