Lonely Beach/Ngalarrkpuy is a stunning, untouched paradise in the Top End.
We’d argue that Australia has the world’s most beautiful beaches. From the idyllic Whitehaven Beach to the iconic Bondi Beach, we’re blessed with an abundance of stunning coastal escapes. However, one beach, rich in cultural significance and far from the crowds, remains under the radar, hidden away in the Top End.
Lonely Beach, known as Ngalarrkpuy to the Traditional Owners, is a sacred site located in Bawaka, a small Yolŋu homeland approximately one-and-a-half hours’ drive from Nhulunbuy. It is on the ancestral land of the Gumatj people, the Yunupiŋu, the Burarrwaŋa and the Mununggurritj families. Bawaka means ‘unknown heaven’, and it’s easy to see why the name fits. The scenery at Ngalarrkpuy is breathtaking, with two white sand beaches converging at a rugged island, its sandstone cliffs towering from the pristine turquoise waters. Stand at the top of the dunes, and you’ll be treated to a spectacular view of the landscape and views looking out to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
How to get to Lonely Beach/Ngalarrkpuy
East Arnhem Land’s pristine coastline. (Image: Tourism NT/Rob Mulally)
Ngalarrkpuy is a sacred site, and access is only possible through organised tours with Bawaka Experience. Bawaka Experience is a fully Aboriginal-owned and operated business that provides an incredible opportunity for visitors to learn about Yolŋu culture – one of the oldest continuous cultures on earth. Led by Timmy, Rita, Aaron, and Dianne, Bawaka Experience embodies their commitment to sharing Yolŋu traditions:
“We want to build a future for our children by bringing our ancient homeland and culture together in a new, friendly, contemporary business. So whether you are just visiting or doing a cultural experience tour, we hope you really enjoy your time with us."
An idyllic view from the dunes. (Image: Tourism NT/Rob Mulally)
The Ngalarrkpuy Lonely Beach Tour can only be booked after booking accommodation, camping, or a day visit pass. On the beach tour, you’ll be guided by an experienced local who will take you to their ancestral lands to share the history and cultural connection. The tour also includes a visit to Bungugunglu, a fishing site that is thousands of years old.
The accommodation is close to Ngalarrkpuy and comes in the form of oceanfront cabins and safari tents, or you can bring your own camping gear and camp on their grounds. It’s also important to note that access to Bawaka Homelands is only possible for experienced 4-wheel drivers as there is some sand driving, and Bawaka Experience don’t currently offer transfers.
Are there crocs at Lonely Beach/Ngalarrkpuy?
Ngalarrkpuy is a sacred site and access is only possible through organised tours. (Image: Tourism NT)
As tempting as the waters may be, like many areas in the Top End, it’s recommended that you don’t swim at Ngalarrkpuy due to the potential presence of crocodiles. However, swimming is possible strictly under the supervision of the Yolŋu hosts, and visitors are encouraged to wear modest clothing that respects Yolŋu culture.
Rachael Thompson is Australian Traveller's Evergreen Editor and a self-proclaimed cheese and Chablis connoisseur. In her role, she creates and manages online content that remains relevant and valuable over time. With a background in publishing and e-commerce in both interior design and travel, Rachael is dedicated to curating engaging content that informs and inspires. She began her career at Belle magazine, then went on to become Senior Content Producer at Homes to Love focusing on Australian House & Garden and Belle, followed by Editor at Bed Threads. Her work has also appeared in Qantas Travel Insider. When she's not writing, editing, or optimising content, Rachael enjoys exploring the city's newest restaurants, bars, and hotels. Next on her Aussie travel wish list are Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park and Lord Howe Island.
Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.
In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo, the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory ’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.
“By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.
See Kangaroo, then visit the real-life filming locations.
And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.
“There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”
If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.
1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe
Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)
2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre
Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)
Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.
“The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”
To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.
3. Ormiston Gorge
Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)
The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.
Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).
Ormiston Gorge , a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.
4. Standley Chasm
Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)
The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.
Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.
5. Simpsons Gap
Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)
Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.
Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.
6. Ellery Creek Big Hole
Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)
When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata : tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.
Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.
“It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”
7. Larapinta Drive
Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)
There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.
Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.
8. Todd River
Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)
Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.
When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.
