Arnhem Land: everything you need to know to plan a trip

We all want to go there, but most have no idea where to start. So get ready to leave all expectations behind, open your eyes and embrace a new perspective. You are coming, at long last, to Australia’s final frontier.

Here on the eastern edge of the Top End of the Northern Territory, the culture of the Aboriginal inhabitants, and much of its environment, remain mysterious and unknown to outsiders.

In Arnhem Land, raging rivers run wild, savannah woodlands teem with remarkable wildlife, primeval wetlands brim with fish, crocodiles and exceptional marine animals, more than 260 species of birds flock to the skies and the word “remote" takes on fresh meaning.

Lonely Beach at Bawaka, East Arnhem Lane, Northern Territory — You might not be able to swim, but beaches at Bawaka, East Arnhem Land, are the most beautiful in Australia. (Image: Tourism NT/Hayley Anderson)

This vast, 97,000km2 region has just 18,000 inhabitants, with the majority continuing to live a traditional lifestyle on isolated homelands. The connection to country is strong, and traditional hunting and gathering activities are still practiced.

A Yolngu man from East Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — A Yolngu man from East Arnhem Land. (Image: Tourism NT)

Getting to Arnhem Land

Entry to Arnhem Land is by a free permit only (with minor exceptions like a day trip where you fly in and out).

If you’re travelling independently, you’ll need to apply to the Northern Land Council at least 10 working days before you leave. If travelling with a tour, your tour operator will make the application on your behalf.

By air

Airnorth operates five flights per week from Darwin to Maningrida (www.airnorth.com.au ).

The airport at Nhulunbuy in far northeast Arnhem Land is known as Gove, and Qantas and Airnorth have regular daily jet services from Darwin and Cairns.

Airnorth also flies daily to Groote Eylandt from Darwin. Charter flights land at the airstrip on the Cobourg Peninsula but here’s the rub: it’s a 2km drive to the campground with no public transport. More info: (08) 8999 4814.

By road

Central Arnhem Road, Northern Territory — The Central Arnhem Highway is 710km of sheer adventure. (Image: Tourism NT/Sean Scott)

Access into Arnhem Land can be limited during the wet season (Nov-April). For the latest information on driving the Central Arnhem Road visit the NT Road Report website .

Whether you’re on tour or self-driving, remember you’re travelling on private land through sensitive cultural regions.

If driving to Nhulunbuy, take the turnoff to the Central Arnhem Highway 52km south of Katherine on the Stuart Highway.

It’s a further 710km to Nhulunbuy from the turnoff, only the first 60km of which is sealed. From then on the road is corrugated, slippery with loose gravel, and in some places heavy with bull dust.

The two major river crossings at the Wilton River near Bulman Aboriginal community and the Goyder River, about 400km from Nhulunbuy have now been replaced with bridges. However 4WDs are still recommended and fuel stops are rare.

The road to the Cobourg Peninsula is open during the dry season only, usually from May 1 to Oct 31.

River crossing drive east Arnhem Land — River crossings are all part of driving through east Arnhem Land, even in the dry. (Image: Elise Hassey).

It’s an unsealed road for 4WD vehicles only and will take eight hours to cover the 570km from Darwin to Black Point, with no permitted stops between the East Alligator River and the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park boundary.

Getting to Maningrida is a tad easier. It’s about 520km from Darwin via Gunbalanya and takes 6-7hrs (be careful to follow the signs).

There are a number of river crossings after Cahill’s Crossing before reaching the settlement. Access by road is usually limited to June-November inclusive, while the road between Maningrida and the community of Ramingining is closed to all non-local traffic.

Fuel and food

Nhulunbuy has one petrol station and one large supermarket. Fuel and food are available at the Mainoru Outback Store, about 256km from the Stuart Highway on the Central Arnhem Highway. The last fuel stop before Gunbalanya, Cobourg Peninsula and Maningrida is at Jabiru, so make sure you carry extra fuel in jerry cans.

There’s no fuel available at Black Point on the Cobourg Peninsula but there’s a store open throughout the dry season. Maningrida has two supermarkets, four takeaway outlets and two petrol stations.

Road hazards

The NT now has an open road speed limit of 130km/h, but it’s recommended not to travel at more than 80km/h in Arnhem Land since conditions vary on the roads so much throughout the year. And unless you’re sure of the water depth, flow rate and any road damage never attempt to cross flooded bridges or causeways. Most importantly, do not ignore signs.

There’s also a lot of wildlife constantly moving across Arnhem Land, particularly at dawn and dusk. Stock and wildlife often feed on the edges of roads (be particularly wary of buffaloes). It also cannot be stressed enough that Arnhem Land is very isolated, and a missing vehicle is far easier to locate than missing people.

Never leave your vehicle, regardless of the circumstances. Economise on water if you’re away from the main road – and if you do intend to leave the main road, let someone know of your plans and expected time of arrival. Importantly, also let them know you’ve arrived safely. Carrying an emergency supply of fuel and food is a good idea wherever you’re going, and make sure you include at least 20 litres of water.

Where to go in Arnhem Land

Gunbalanya

The community of Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) lies about 15km from the border of Kakadu National Park .

Nearby is the rugged Arnhem Land Escarpment, known as the Stone Country, where deep plunging gorges, huge boulders and wide overhanging rock platforms dominate. Beyond the settlement is Gunbalanya billabong, surrounded by open flood plains and overshadowed by Injalak Hill, a site extensively rich in rock art paintings and a source of inspiration for the local artists.

Cobourg Peninsula

The Garig Gunak Barlu National Park includes the entire Cobourg Peninsula and surrounding waters of the Arafura Sea, Van Dieman Gulf and a few neighbouring islands in northwest Arnhem Land, a land area of 4500km².

Only 15 vehicles a day are allowed into the park and permits are required for both entry and camping.

The journey is well worth the effort; this is a true wilderness. A highlight is a visit to the ruined Victoria Settlement, where the British made their third attempt to settle the Top End.

Sadly, it quickly became known as ‘The Forsaken Settlement’, as nearly every single person who lived here died – though that didn’t stop the English from trying to settle the area again… and again. (Eventually they succeeded nearby, with Darwin. Fifth time lucky.)

Maningrida

At the mouth of the Liverpool River, Maningrida is in the heart of west Arnhem Land, where the landscape of the rocky escarpment country meets sprawling flood plains that feed meandering river systems.

It’s largely comprised of monsoon woodlands intermingled with billabongs and riverine habitats turning into one vast wetland during the wet season. Maningrida is a centre for 34 homelands, home to 2600 people, and fosters more than 800 artists through Maningrida Arts and Culture.

Gove Peninsula

Garanhan / Macassan beach, Nhulunbuy, Arnhem Land Northern Territory — Find a campsite or take a day trip to Garanhan / Macassan Beach, located south of the township of Nhulunbuy. (Image: Tourism NT/Rob Mulally)

On the far northeastern tip of the NT mainland, spectacular coastal landforms with hundreds of offshore islands, cays, reefs and estuaries fairly churning with marine life, combined with a strong Aboriginal cultural presence, define the Eden that is the Gove Peninsula.

And, good news, everything is easily accessible from the regional centre, Nhulunbuy, a town of 3500 people. Built in the 1970s to service bauxite mines, the town has become the focal point for tourism.

Dancer at Garma Festival, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — A feathered dancer at Garma festival, held near Yirrkala in East Arnhem Land. (Image: Quentin Long)

Garma Festival is held in Gulkula – a 30-minute drive from Nhulunbuy.

The Yolngu people also are exponents of the yidaki (didgeridoo) and their musical ancestry has spawned such performers as Mandawuy Yunupingu and his band, Yothu Yindi.

Groote Eylandt

Abel Tasman was the first European to sight the largest island in the Gulf of Carpentaria in 1644, naming it Groote Eylandt, or “large island".

Since then the homeland of the Anindilyakwa people has remained relatively isolated. Some development occurred as a result of a magnesium mining operation that began in the 1960s, but the community shunned tourism.

This all changed in 2007 with the opening of Groote Eylandt Lodge and the gradual entry of the Anindilyakwa into cultural tourism. Groote Eylandt Archipelago is now a significant new addition to the Aussie traveller’s holiday planner.

outback northern territory lodge stays accommodation history aborigines art culture — Stay on the sand among the mangroves at the remote Groote Eylandt Lodge (Image: Sean Fennessy).

Things to do in Arnhem Land

Fishing

A select number of operators have cornered the market on quality fishing expeditions in Arnhem Land. For a full list check out the fishing page on Northernterritory.com . Meanwhile here are a few selections.

Banubanu // Personalised fishing charters from Banubanu Beach Retreat off Bremer Island in east Arnhem Land.

Arnhem Land Barramundi Lodge // Caters for anglers seeking remote sportfishing experiences with comfortable tented lodge accommodation near Maningrida.

Indigenous art

Arnhem Land is rich with Indigenous art. Here are three repositories you shouldn’t miss.

Yirrkala Art Centre, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — Artist Barrupu Yunupingu, sister of Mandawuy Yunupingu, lead singer of Yothu Yindi, at Yirrkala works on her fire-inspired piece. (Photo: Quentin Long)

Anindilyakwa Arts on Groote Eylandt

Injalak Arts and Crafts at Gunbalanya.

Maningrida Arts and Culture at Maningrida.

Buku-Larrnggay Mulka at Yirrkala Community near Nhulunbuy.

Discovering culture

From living in an Aboriginal family home to making your own didgeridoo, there are plenty of ways to expand your cultural horizons in Arnhem Land.

Nhulunbuy & surrounds
There’s a wide selection of Yolngu Cultural Programs available in Nhulunbuy mostly organised by and through Lirrwi Tourism .

One of the most popular is the women’s multi day tour and we loved the Bawaka experience.

Groote Eylandt
Groote Eylandt Touring Company // More than just fishing the touring company can organise cultural tours as well.

Gunbalanya
Injalak Hill Tour // Walk through beautiful sandstone caves filled with ancient remnants of Aboriginal dwellings and rock paintings.

Visit Bawaka on a Lirrwi multi-day tour, Northern Territory — Visit Bawaka on a Lirrwi multi-day tour. (Image: TourismNT/Rob Mulally)

Making music

Music is a powerful part of Aboriginal culture and the music of Arnhem Land is an exciting mix of Western and traditional sounds. Think about picking up some CDs before your trip so you can listen to the talent in situ, most of the below are available from Skinny Fish Music .

1. Milkay Mununggurr // Renowned didgeridoo exponent, plays traditional music from coastal west Arnhem Land.

2. The Nabarlek Band // The boys from Manmoyi outstation cut their teeth on four upturned flour tins and snaggle-stringed guitars. With four albums to their credit, they combine traditional sounds with a rock/reggae beat.

3. Yothu Yindi // You may have listened to them in the late ’80s but the music is more relevant when walking along a beach in east Arnhem Land with the vocals of Mandawuy Yunupingu singing in your ears.

4. Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu // Hailed from northeast Arnhem Land and was a former member of Yothu Yindi. Before his death in 2017 he sang with the Saltwater Band from his homeland of Galiwin’ku on Elcho Island and pursued his solo career.

5. Lonely Boys // Hard rock from the remote community of Ngukurr, they won the Barunga Battle of the Bands in 2006.

6. King Stingray //Self-described as a Yolngu surf-rock band. These musicians from Nhulunbuy have made their way up the Australian music charts with their surf rock melodies and powerful storytelling.

Arnhem Land Festivals

There’s no better way to see the communities of Arnhem Land come to life than by timing your visit with one of these major annual events.

Garma Festival, Arnhem Land NT — Garma Festival, NT: Indigenous culture at is most vibrant and lively. (Photo: Quentin Long)

Barunga Sports and Cultural Festival , June // Traditionally an opportunity for different clan groups from all over the Top End, Qld, the desert, SA and WA to come together, share knowledge, dance and play sport, the Barunga Festival is evolving into a cross-cultural celebration and information-sharing opportunity. The $20 entry fee includes camping and Jessica Mauboy Concert. Central Arnhem Hwy, Barunga.

Garma Festival, August // Australia’s foremost Indigenous cultural exchange event, Garma attracts more than 3000 people from diverse clan groups. This celebration of Yolngu culture is a sharing of knowledge and an encouragement of continuing traditional practices. Entry fees apply. Gulkula, northeast Arnhem Land.

Touring Arnhem Land

Here’s a selection of quality tour guides operating in the region. For a full list of all operators, check out the Arnhem Land tour page on northenrterritory.com .

Davidson's Arnhem Land Safaris, NT — The camp at Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safaris, NT

1. Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris // Visit Mt Borradaile, one of the most significant art sites in Australia, and investigate one of Australia’s most pristine environments. Read about our visit to Mt Borradaile or perhaps preview the best rock art in Australia.

2. Lords Kakadu & Arnhem Land Safaris // Award-winning operator with a range of tours.

3. Venture North // Offers exclusive touring to the Cobourg Peninsula, starting with four-day Arnhem Land & Cobourg Peninsula Tour. Read our adventure with Venture North through East Arnhem Land.

4. Brookes Safaris // Personalised high-end touring for the discerning traveller throughout Arnhem Land and across the Top End.

5. Intrepid Travel // Offering week-long experiences through Nhulunbuy and Bremer Island.

Entering Aboriginal lands in Arnhem Land

Digging for turtle eggs East Arnhem Land — Hard-won right: Waka Mununggurr digging for turtle eggs, East Arnhem Land (photo: Elise Hassey).

Permits from the Northern Land Council are required to travel in Arnhem Land.

These are free, but the paperwork must be lodged prior to your trip and approval granted. If you’re travelling with an accredited touring company, your tour package should include your permit. For information on how to apply, click here .

For info on Groote Eylandt permits, contact the Anindilyakwa Land Council or (08) 8987 4040.

You will also require a permit from the NT Parks and Wildlife to travel to the Cobourg Peninsula overnight.

Weather

The tropical dry season is May-Oct and is the so-called “winter", during which temperatures hover around 28ºC with superb tropical nights warm enough to dine out under the stars.

Rainfall is usually during the tropical summer season from Nov-April and daytime temperatures are around 30-33ºC with sea breezes.

Accessing money

Nhulunbuy has Westpac Bank and there are ATMs in the bank and the Walkabout Lodge.

Maningrida has an ANZ Bank as well as several ATMs around the community. There’s an ANZ Bank in Alyangula on Groote Eylandt, as well as ATM access. There’s no ATM or bank in Gunbalanya or on the Cobourg Peninsula.

Cultural protocol

Garma Festival Dancing, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — Immerseyourself in Indigenous culture in Arnhem Land with Lirrwi Tourism (Image: Wayne Quilliam).

Whether on tour or self-driving, remember you’re travelling on private land through sensitive cultural regions.

Aboriginal people tend to be polite to strangers and are thus more inclined to “agree" to requests from visitors, such as being the subject of photos, even if it’s something they don’t want to do.

Avoid taking advantage of the hospitality of your Indigenous hosts; don’t offend or intrude.

Sacred sites

Sacred sites are vital spiritual and cultural places that link Aboriginal people to their cultural traditions and the land. Please respect this, and the wishes of the Traditional Owners, by avoiding and respecting sacred sites.

Don’t leave home without

1. A big water bottle // You’ll need to drink at least two litres of water a day.

2. The right clothes // Light-coloured, lightweight clothing that covers tummies, bottoms and legs. Aboriginal people are very conservative and for women, exposing skin below the waist and above the knees is considered inappropriate.

3. Sturdy walking shoes // The rocky terrain can be very challenging.

4. Insect repellent // Mosquitoes are big and active around sunset, so repellent with a DEET base is important.

5. Thinking of your pet // Pets aren’t allowed in any NT National Parks or in most of Arnhem Land. The exception being Nhulunbuy and the surrounding area including the Dhimurru campgrounds. Boarding facilities are available in Darwin and Katherine.

6. An open mind // Your visit to Arnhem Land will definitely be enhanced by leaving all preconceived notions behind.

For more information on things to do in the NT, visit the official Northern Territory website at northernterritory.com

From Country to coast, Arnhem Land offers an invitation to connect with the spirit of an ancient landscape.

I’ve been told more than once, by people who know a lot more about it than me, that if you just listen, Country will speak to you. Floating on this large tinnie with the engine cut on a ‘side street’ of the Arafura Swamp near Murwangi, I can finally hear it – even if I don’t yet understand the language.

It’s too hot for cicadas, but the waterbirds of Arafura are providing the soundtrack to this experience. The mad cackle of blue-winged kookaburras. The high-pitched calls of plumed whistling ducks. The majestic cries of various kite species as they circle overhead.

And the resonant honks of magpie geese, totems of the local Ganalbingu People and allegedly very good walle (eating), although you’ll need to go through the correct ceremonies to find out. All the while, wind has become a telephone to the elements, rustling through the gum trees and Arafura palms.

There aren’t many crocodiles right now – recent flooding has made their territory a whole lot larger than the usual 700 square kilometres of freshwater ecosystem they have to wallow around in. But they’re still here to join in the cacophony of life.

Murwangi guide, Graham Gunurri. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

In fact, our first crocodile makes itself known just as our guides – Ganalbingu man, Graham Gunurri and adopted Indigenous man, Lachlin Dean – stop at a significant landmark that relates to a local songline. We only get the topline version – the rest is only shared during ceremony – but what is clear is that a crocodile spirit was trapped under the water below us for stealing fire during the Dreamtime. No sooner has this been shared than the thrash of a tail and the whip of a pointed, scaly nose indicates that a free-roaming crocodile just caught itself a juicy fish for lunch.

Arnhem Land with Outback Spirit

cruising the ArafuraSwamp, Arnhem Land — Enjoy a cruise of Arafura Swamp. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

This is only day four of Outback Spirit’s 13-day Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife wilderness adventure from Cairns to Darwin. Starting with a flight from Cairns, in Tropical North Queensland, into the Northern Territory’s Gove Peninsula, spending the first few days exploring Nhulunbuy and Yirrkala.

Before we’d even touched down, it was immediately clear that Arnhem Land stands apart from the rest of Australia. Looking out my window, I was struck by how untamed the landscape is. In most parts of this country, you only get glimpses of this sort of ‘wild’ before farmland or buildings tear it apart. But not here.

a beach in Nhulunbuy, Arnhem Land — Nhulunbuy is known for its beautiful beaches. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

“Just wait until you see the golden dirt,” my seatmate, Lisa, leaned over to tell me. “It’s so red.” Lisa is a local, returning from a quick trip to Sydney – a very long way for a doctor’s appointment. But she was relieved to be returning home. “I just want a peaceful life. It’s a peaceful life here,” she shared.

Outside my window, the dense, dark-green blanket spread out over the land continued untouched until we flew a little lower, when that red dirt Lisa prepared me for breaks through. In the last of the day’s light, the winding roads glow like the veins and arteries of the Earth.

“This has to be the most beautiful airport I’ve ever seen,” I exclaimed. Lisa just smiled, satisfied.

Welcome to Gove Peninsula

Galpu clan member in East Arnhem Land — A member of the Galpu clan in East Arnhem Land. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

The next day, our group of 15 heads out to Wirrwawuy Beach where we receive a Welcome to Country by the Traditional Custodians of the land, the Galpu clan of the Miwatj (north-east Arnhem Land), part of Yolŋu Country. The joy we are privy to is infectious. Following the lead vocals of Lita Lita Gurruwiwi (born performer and, I suspect from his endless jokes, larrikin), we trace the songline of a spiritual man searching the land for food and water. It’s a family affair. Clan leaders play clapping sticks and yidaki (the Yolŋu word for didgeridoo). Three-year-old children pay close attention to the hands, feet and cries of the adults around them. They join in for the promise of a lolly and then abandon the show in favour of their own games.

A soft breeze rustles the leaves of the tamarind trees we sit under, bringing with it the gentle scent of ocean, just metres away from our shady patch. Excitement ripples through our group and the performers alike when a dolphin and her baby are spotted playing in small waves, connecting us further to the natural world around us. This is about sharing.

To close the Welcome to Country, jilka leaves are used to create a cleansing smoke. This same smoke is used to cleanse the belongings of the deceased, and then the loved ones of their grief. It’s also used to help connect new generations to Country. Today, it is used to make us safe on our travels through Arnhem Land.

Spotting wildlife at Arafura Swamp

an aerial view of Murwangi Lodge, Arnhem Land — Murwangi Lodge is exclusive to guests of Outback Spirit. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

It’s a safety I’ll be especially thankful for on day four, sleeping at Outback Spirit’s exclusive Murwangi Safari Camp on the banks of the Arafura Swamp. While earlier in the day I heard Country, the message it’s sharing becomes loud and clear in the night.

While curled up in my comfortable safari tent – reading a book by lamplight with the zips tightly closed against the mosquito population – the nightly soundtrack of cicadas and birdcalls is suddenly, and violently, split in two.

A large splash, a low, primordial growl, one desperate squawk and then silence. The most eerie silence I’ve ever heard. The birds, geckos and cicadas don’t start up again for a good five minutes. I’ll never know for sure, but I feel confident the world stopped to honour the lost. I’ve seen a lot of crocodiles before, even in the wild. But something about this aural encounter feels more visceral than anything I’ve ever laid eyes on.

I’ve spent plenty of time on different lands around the world, but I’ve never witnessed the breathtaking busyness of such a remote one before. And this is only our second stop.

a waterbird in Arafura Swamp, Arnhem Land — Arafura Swamp is home to hundreds of species of waterbirds. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

Dropping a line at Maningrida

a luxe safari suite in Barramundi Lodge, Arnhem Land — Barramundi Lodge is in the remote reaches of Arnhem Land and features 12 luxe safari suites. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

The next day, we head to Barramundi Lodge, another safari-tented stop just outside the small community of Maningrida. Typically, we’d be driving for hours along red-dirt roads, but flooding as a result of record-breaking rain has rendered many of them closed. None of us complain as our 12-passenger aerial caravan flies us overhead instead. Showing off more of this beautiful country and keeping us oriented.

sunset views at Barramundi Lodge — Sunsets at Barramundi Lodge are otherworldly. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

Here, swamp banks are swapped for the privacy of stringybark and woollybutt gum trees that surround each tent. The main dining cabin boasts sweeping views of the plain below, transformed each evening under the vibrant oranges and reds of sunset.

The name is no mistake. Every year, Barramundi Lodge attracts guests hoping to catch themselves a juicy barra. A metre-long club plaque hangs proudly near the kitchen. And, while some members of our group do have luck with their fishing rods out on the nearby Liverpool and Tomkinson rivers, it’s again the wildlife that captures my attention.

a saltwater crocodile in Liverpool River — A large saltie near the mouth of Liverpool River. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

Mud skippers turning muddy mangrove banks of the mid-tide to silver as they scuttle around. Egrets stretching their long legs as they wade along the edges of the water. A white-bellied sea eagle circling overhead. And of course, crocodiles. Dozens lining the banks, soaking up the morning sun, proving completely unbothered by our existence, while tiny waving crabs dance all around them. Pandanus and towering paperbark trees indicate where the salty mangrove water stops and freshwater begins.

Keeping culture going

Aboriginal artwork at Barramundi Lodge — Admire the artwork of local Aboriginal people. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

With all fishermen satisfied, we head back to shore and over to Maningrida Arts & Culture centre – the oldest and largest of its kind in the Northern Territory, with all profits going back to the artists – and the Djómi Museum.

Doreen Jinggarrabarra is our guide to both, a leading fibre artist whose work has been shown in galleries around the world. Doreen shares with us the basics of her art form, weaving pandanus leaves into magic before our eyes. Although a full dilly bag would take two to three weeks to complete, the large installations she exhibits take even longer.

an Aboriginal artist weaving a dilly bag in Barramundi Lodge — Artist Doreen Jinggarrabarra weaving a dilly bag. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

Despite her huge success as an artist, it’s not until Doreen has finished walking us around Djómi that she allows a modest sense of pride to enter her tone. But it’s not for herself.

“We don’t forget our culture,” she tells us. “We teach our kids. We keep it going.”

And that’s what the museum is about. Keeping it going, even outside the community. Doreen walks us around artefacts and artworks, meticulously explaining the materials and use of each one. Or, at least, those of the Eastern clans to which she belongs. For the items collected from further away, Doreen sits down. They’re not her stories to tell.

a meticulously weaved dilly bag — The intricate details of a dilly bag. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

We learned back at Buku-Larrŋggay Mulka Centre in Gove Peninsula that this is essential to local culture. Songlines are held within every artwork and every artefact. The Yolŋu don’t deal in numbers, we were told. But it’s safe to say that tens of thousands of years of knowledge and history are written into these artworks. Sharing a songline that doesn’t belong to you is a huge offence, the traditional punishment being death.

Exploring the rock art of Mt Borradaile

lily pads by the creek near Mt Borradaile — A lily-clad billabong near Mt Borradaile. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

It’s an education we take with us into our next stop, Mt Borradaile, famed for being home to the largest outdoor rock art gallery in the world, some of which dates back as far as 55,000 years. It’s impossible to count the number of artworks across the 700-square-kilometre area where the remote safari lodge is nestled against the Arnhem Land escarpment.

Escarpment country is different again. Gum trees still abound and water isn’t far away, but we find ourselves in the middle of dusty, rocky land. Deep red and brown tones take over here.

rock art in Mt Borradaile — Mt Borradaile has the world’s largest single collection of rock art. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

A buffalo hunter turned environmentalist who opened eco lodge Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris here, Max Davidson was granted permission to use the land by the Amurdak People who own it, and his friend Charlie Mangulda in particular – the last man who can say he belongs to this Country. After stumbling on one of the largest known depictions of the Rainbow Serpent in Australia, they decided to share the art instead.

While modern artworks are more detailed, showing everything from mythical figures and local animals to guns and boats, it’s the oldest, simplest displays that really get under my skin. Grass strikings and handprints are believed to serve as the original mark on Country. I can’t help but wonder who that person was, with a handprint so like mine, leaving signs of life tens of thousands of years ago.

birds flying above Arnhem Land — Hundreds of birds fly above the ancient landscape. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

The afternoon is spent out on Coopers Creek. Once again, I’m struck by the beauty of Arnhem Land’s waterways. The way they teem with life, making them at once the busiest places I’ve ever seen, yet somehow also the calmest. Wild rice lines the banks, where hundreds of magpie geese fill the air with their honks. And then with their bodies as they occasionally take flight, creating a spotty blanket against the clear sky.

Nearby, a whistling kite swoops a dead fish floating in the water. He eventually gives up and flies away, possibly in embarrassment. Crocodiles tease us from along the lily pads lining the edge of the creek, dipping below the surface when our boat gets too close.

Meanwhile, the sculptured cliff faces of Mt Borradaile itself change colours as the sun moves lower in the sky. And our little tour group, in the middle of it all, is the only sign of human interference.

Ending in luxury at Seven Spirit Bay

the wilderness lodge at Seven Spirit Bay, Coral Bay. — The wilderness lodge overlooks Coral Bay. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

It’s almost a shock when we find ourselves at Seven Spirit Bay on the Cobourg Peninsula the next afternoon. While the earthy tones are not entirely gone, they are mixed with a white ochre and the vivid green of native plants recently treated to rainfall.

Our lodge sits above the pristine sands and calm waters of the bay, cruelly enticing guests to dive right in even while crocodiles and sharks make that impossible. Like one of our guides will later say: “I don’t like going in the crocodile’s bathtub.”

Crossing the Arafura Sea at the top of Australia, we explore Victoria Settlement, the third, ill-fated attempt at British settlement in these parts and the motivation for many in my group to join this tour in the first place. Remnants of buildings and graves remain crumbling as plants slowly reclaim their territory.

the structure remains of Victoria Settlement — The crumbling remains of Victoria Settlement. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

We head back onto the water the next day to fish. The unsheltered water is rough enough to have us bouncing like we’re on a roller coaster. Wide, open ocean is replaced by striking, corrugated cliffs, eroded over the years by rainfall and leaving trees desperately clinging to red and white ochre with their exposed roots. We find a place to drop a line in.

Upon return to the lodge, we notice lemon sharks circling the pier, hoping to feast on the remains of our freshly caught fish as it’s prepared for tonight’s dinner. This last stop of our Arnhem Land journey feels like another world entirely. One where the gentle lapping of the ocean lulls us to sleep each night, and elevated accommodation offers more space than we’ve had in two weeks.

an aerial view of Seven Spirit Bay in Garig GunakBarlu National Park — Seven Spirit Bay is set amid the marine sanctuary of Garig Gunak Barlu National Park. (Image: Jess Miocevich)

Our 13-day journey will end tomorrow with a sunset cruise along Darwin’s famous Mindil Beach, but the emotion of leaving Arnhem Land hits me tonight. This isn’t a journey all Australians will take in their lifetime. But it is one that will never be forgotten by those who do.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Fly direct to Cairns Airport from all major cities with Virgin, Jetstar and Qantas. Outback Spirit and Airnorth will take it from there.

Playing there

Outback Spirit is the only tour operator to take guests across the entire top of Arnhem Land (from east to west). Join the Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife tour between May and September, from $11,795pp twin share. All accommodation, transportation, permits, food and drinks included.

termite mounds in Murwangi Safari Camp, Arnhem Land — Termite mounds reach for the sky. (Image: Jess Miocevich)