The ultimate guide to exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges

Leah McLennanBy Leah McLennan
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The immense Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park boasts some of Central Australia’s most spectacular scenery.

Stretching for 160 kilometres west from Alice Springs, its concentration of pristine waterholes, cliffs of colourful ochre and biodiversity is hard to match. Best explored on foot, it’s home to the epic 223-kilometre Larapinta Trail, one of Australia’s most challenging multi-day walks. But you don’t have to commit to the entire length of this iconic line to experience the valleys, plains, and canyons of the West Macs. Here’s your ultimate guide to exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges.

How to get to West MacDonnell National Park

The West Macs begin just outside Alice Springs, with the major attractions ranging from 15 minutes to 2 hours’ drive away. Jump on an organised tour or hire your own car to access the sites.

driving along West MacDonnell Ranges
Embark on a road trip to the West MacDonnell Ranges. (Image: Tourism NT/Sean Scott)

While a regular car will get you to many of the major sites, a 4WD will allow you to do side trips. Another way to experience the West Macs is to hike a section of the Larapinta Trail .

a group of hikers traversing the Larapinta Trail
Hike past rocky outcrops along the Larapinta Trail. (Image: Tourism NT/Tourism Australia)

What to see in West MacDonnell National Park

Must-see spots include Simpsons Gap with its towering red cliffs and black-footed rock wallabies, Ellery Creek with its refreshingly cool (bordering on icy) swimming hole, and Standley Chasm with its glowing red rock walls at midday. The historical Ochre Pits are well worth a visit, as is the natural oasis that is Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen with its huge cliff face and inviting cool water.

an aerial view of people swimming in Glen Helen
Take a cool dip at Glen Helen. (Image: Tourism NT/All About Adventure)

Simpsons Gap

Only a short drive from Alice Springs, the towering red cliffs of Simpsons Gap are unmissable. If you’re here at sunrise or sunset, keep your eyes peeled for rock wallabies near the walking paths. The area is also a nature lover’s dream, dotted with ghost gums, mulga trees and over 40 kinds of rare plants.

the red cliffs at Simpsons Gap
See the towering red cliffs at Simpsons Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/Backyard Bandits)

For the walkers, there are several easy trails to pick from that wind through native plants with some pretty sweet views of the ranges thrown in. If biking is your thing, there’s a 17 kilometres path from just outside Alice Springs straight to the Gap. Outback Cycling  rents out bikes. Make sure you pack plenty of cold drinks as it’s the only refreshment permitted here. No swimming is allowed.

two people biking at Simpsons Gap
Pedal your way around Simpsons Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught

Standley Chasm

Owned by the Western Arrernte people, Standley Chasm is an incredibly narrow, soaring passage through the towering, rust-stained rocks, just a 40-minute drive west of Alice Springs.

a man standing between the towering red cliffs at Standley Chasm
Make your way through the narrow passage of Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT/Mark Fitzpatrick)

To access this 80-metre high, three-metre-wide canyon you will need to purchase a $12 ticket to enter this flora and fauna reserve. From the kiosk, it’s an easy 1.2-kilometre walk along a well-maintained path to the gorge. For a more in-depth experience, jump on a half-day cultural experience, which includes a guided walk, dot painting workshop and lunch.

a painting workshop at Standley Chasm
Join a half-day cultural experience. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)

Ellery Creek Big Hole

You’ll find this secluded swimming spot 88 kilometres west of Alice Springs. With easy access via a sealed road, this permanent, deep waterhole surrounded by towering red cliffs is perfect for a dip on a hot day. If you’re lucky you might spot a dingo taking a drink, and keep an eye out for honeyeaters, white-winged fairywrens, and little buttonquails. Hikers can set off on the Dolomite Walk, a three-kilometre loop walk through the surrounding spinifex country with good views en route.

swimming in the waterhole at Ellery Creek
Ellery Creek is perfect for a cool dip on a hot day. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Serpentine Gorge

The narrow, ochre-red Serpentine Gorge sits 100 kilometres west of Alice Springs, with the entrance to the gorge down a three-kilometre dirt track. It has a little waterhole, a dwarf compared to surrounding waterholes, but its lookout adds to its appeal. Climb up the steep track for about 15 minutes to the top of a towering cliff and (once you catch your breath back) you will be stunned by the 360-degree view from the top.

Ochre Pits

About 110 kilometres west of Alice Springs, don’t miss stopping by the spectacular Ochre Pits, a rockface with colourful bands of clay. The Ochre Pits are easily accessible via a 300-metre sealed path from the car park, which is an attractive picnic spot. The Western Aranda people have used this site for thousands of years to gather ochre for painting, body decoration, medicine, and to cover wooden weapons to protect them from termites.

a group of hikers exploring Ochre Pits
Journey through a colourful ochre outcrop. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Glen Helen Gorge

 Glen Helen is your go-to spot for soaking in the majesty of the West Macs, enjoying a swim, and hanging out with the local fauna.

the spectacular view of Glen Helen Gorge
Glen Helen Gorge is rich in diverse flora and fauna. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Sitting 132 kilometres west of Alice Springs, the first thing you see as you drive into Glen Helen is a towering sandstone cliff. A short stroll from the car park, you will find a serene hideaway with shaded banks and a huge body of water that is home to several fish species.

a woman sitting on a rock at Glen Helen Gorge
Take advantage of the shaded banks of the gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Mark Fitzpatrick)

Ormiston Gorge

A huge inviting pool surrounded by sandy verges, Ormiston Gorge is another unmissable spot, famously swimmable year-round.

relaxing at Ormiston Gorge
Ormiston Gorge is an ideal spot to swim. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

To earn your refreshing swim you should attempt the 8.5-kilometre Ormiston Pound Walk (a loop hike from the car park). It takes you to a ridge-top lookout over Ormiston Pound, a circle of peaks amid the otherwise unbending lines of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

an aerial view of the Ormiston Gorge
You don’t want to miss the spectacular views in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Salty Aura)

Redbank Gorge

Nestled at the base of Mt Sonder, Redbank Gorge is a slot canyon with a near-permanent waterhole that is a bird-watching paradise. Tip: bring a flotation device to swim through the gorge.

a couple walking along Redbank Gorge
Spend time by the secluded Redbank Gorge. (Tourism NT/Jess Caldwell & Luke Riddle)

There are plenty of hiking options at Redbank Gorge, 156km west of Alice Springs. Hikers can tick off Larapinta Trail’s section 12 from the car park, a 5km return walk that takes you to the Mount Sonder Lookout.

a woman floating on Redbank Gorge
Float along the emerald waters. (Image: Tourism NT/All About Adventure)

West MacDonnell Ranges Accommodation

Camping spots are plentiful in the West Macs and are managed by NT Parks, except for Standley Chasm. Make sure you book at NT Parks before you arrive and plan several months in advance as sites book out during the peak winter months.

Alice Springs surrounds from above
See Alice Springs in the distance from above. (Image: Tourism Australia/Allan Dixon)

Standley Chasm

At the Aboriginal-owned and operated Standley Chasm campers and caravaners can choose from powered and non-powered sites on the grassy lawn.

two women sitting outside their tents at Standley Chasm
Support the Aboriginal-owned and operated campsite at Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT/Charlie Bliss)

Facilities include toilets, hot showers, a washing machine, a camp kitchen, and barbecues. There’s also a kiosk cafe and gift shop.

two people walking along the camp facilities at Standley Chasm
Choose from powered and non-powered sites. (Image: Tourism NT/Charlie Bliss)

Ellery Creek Campground

At the popular Ellery Creek Big Hole, you’ll no doubt be sharing this beautiful swimming spot with others. Tents, trailers and caravans are welcome at the campground and facilities include barbecues, wood firepits and toilets.

friends swimming at Ellery Creek
Set up camp on Ellery Creek. (Image: Tourism NT/Salty Aura)

Ormiston Gorge Campground

Pleasant camping facilities are available at Ormiston Gorge, 135 kilometres west of Alice Springs. Facilities include gas barbecues, toilets, and showers.

the waterhole at Ormiston Gorge
Orminston Gorge has a permanent waterhole. (Image: Tourism NT/Daniel Tran)

Birthday Waterhole Campground

Accessible by 4WD only, Birthday Waterhole is about an hour’s drive from Alice Springs. There are no facilities so make sure you have drinking water and all your camping requirements with you.

Finke River Two Mile Campground

Accessible by 4WD only, Finke Two Mile campground sits beside the Finke River, around 130 kilometres west of Alice Springs. Campers need to be self-sufficient as there are no facilities here.

an aerial view of Finke River Two Mile campground
Finke River Two Mile Campground can only be accessed by a 4WD. (Image: Tourism NT/Jess Caldwell & Luke Riddle)

Redbank Gorge (Ridgetop) Campground

The tranquil Redbank Gorge (Ridgetop) campsite has basic facilities including toilets, firepits, and picnic tables. A 4WD is recommended to access this gorge, which is 156km from Alice Springs and 5km along a dirt road.

the Redbank Gorge walking sign
Take the two-kilometre walk from the car park to Redbank Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)
Leah McLennan
Leah McLennan is a freelance writer based in Darwin. She was a journalist in Sydney for over a decade and counts her time as travel editor for Australian Associated Press as one of the highlights of her career. From exploring remote campsites in the Top End with her family, to seeking out new art galleries in faraway cities, she’ll grab an adventurous or arty travel experience within her reach.
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Red earth, light shows and ancient culture: discover the ultimate NT road trip

(Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    The Northern Territory is made for road trips, and this one hits all the highlights.

    Craggy mountain ranges, inviting waterholes, ochre soil: the landscape of the Northern Territory is asking to be explored by road and foot. There are many iconic road trips to choose from here, but none so all-encompassing than the roughly 3000 kilometres of sealed road that make up Explorer’s Way.

    Spend 14 days (or more, to really make the most of it) driving this route from Adelaide, hitting the NT near the small settlement of Kulgera before later finishing in Darwin. Along the way, you’ll find nearly all the territory’s most iconic sights.

    Discover some of the top highlights that make Explorer’s Way one of Australia’s most incredible road trips.

    1. Alice Springs

    echidna at Alice Springs Desert Park
    See the locals at Alice Springs Desert Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Recently hitting the big screen again with the story of The Kanagroo Sanctuary , there’s a lot to surprise you in Alice Springs.

    Three distinct desert habitats – desert rivers, sand country and woodland – are recreated over 1300 hectares at Alice Springs Desert Park . Time your visit for a presentation or a free bird show.

    Later, turn your attention to the skies above, taking a dive into local astronomy at Earth Sanctuary . You’ll find a range of experiences, from a 90-minute toe-dip into the stars through to an overnight adventure.

    Alice Springs packs a surprising punch with its tasty dining options, including pub grub and unique brews at Alice Springs Brewing Co , tapas and pizza at Epilogue Lounge and tasty cafe fare at the quirky Page 27 .

    2. Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

    woman standing at Ormiston Gorge
    Dive into Ormiston Gorge. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom and Jesso)

    Beginning 15 minutes from Alice Springs and stretching across 161 kilometres, Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park is packed with striking ancient landscapes and inviting water holes.

    Visit Standley Chasm – traditionally known as Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water’ – to take in its bold red and orange hues, and to observe the diverse bird species, lizards and wallabies that call it home.

    Cool off in one of several picturesque natural swimming holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge.

    3. Uluru & Kata Tjuta

    three women looking at Kata Tjuta at sunset
    Explore Kata Tjuta. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Visiting the Cultural Heart of Australia is something everybody should experience. There are so many side trips in the Red Centre you could easily spend a week here, but to get the most out of a short time, park the car then get out on foot.

    Take the 10-kilometre Base Walk around the entirety of Uluru or join a free, ranger-guided Mala Walk along part of the base, learning about Tjukurpa (creation stories) and geology as you go.

    For a change of pace, wait until nightfall and wander through the iconic Field of Light display by celebrated artist Bruce Munro, or see the Wintjiri Wiru lightshow that shares the ancient Mala story using drones, lasers and projections.

    4. Tennant Creek

    pson looking at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) northern territory
    See the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom And Jesso)

    Tennant Creek was Australia’s third-largest gold mining town in the 1930s, and visitors can discover that history at Battery Hill Mining Centre – and even try their own hand at gold fossicking.

    For a completely different side of history, pop into Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre , which preserves and shares Warumungu culture through art, performance, a museum and more.

    Just outside town, find the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). A site integral to important stories held by the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Warlpiri and Alyawarra peoples, the boulders appear to almost have dropped out of the sky and seemingly continue to defy gravity.

    5. Mataranka

    aerial of people swimming in bitter springs northern territory
    Dive into Bitter Springs. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    A town made famous by the novel We of the Never Never by Jeannie Gunn (and a movie of the same name), Mataranka is also known for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool, Bitter Springs , within Elsey National Park. Follow a 500-metre loop track around these spring-fed pools that stay a toasty 34°C year-round, before choosing your favourite spot to dive into. Enjoy the local birdlife while you relax.

    Elsewhere in the park, find historical sites, several scenic walks and Roper River, which is perfect for boating and fishing.

    6. Nitmiluk National Park

    Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise
    Join a sunset cruise with Nabilil Dreaming. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Lachlan Gardiner)

    Nitmiluk National Park is sandstone country, with 13 stunning gorges and plenty of waterfalls waiting to be explored.

    One of the most beautiful spots can be found along the 62-kilometre Jatbula Trail, a five-to-six day bushwalk that follows an ancient Jawoyn songline from Nitmiluk Gorge to Leliyn (Edith Falls). Numbers are restricted and book out quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead. Not up for the hike? Drive right up to the falls and enjoy a dip without the challenge.

    Elsewhere, explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Paddle a kayak through the river running through the canyon, or save your energy on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise , discovering the stories and ways of the Jawoyn people while enjoying a candlelit dinner as the cliffs around you shift colour and glow with the changing daylight.

    Continue your cultural journey at local art centres like Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre or Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft .

    7. Litchfield National Park

    cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield national park
    Be awed by giant cathedral termite mounds. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ As We Wander)

    Just over an hour’s drive from Darwin lies the beautiful Litchfield National Park. It’s famous for stunning waterfalls and swimming holes, including Buley Rockhole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Tjaynera Falls.

    Here you’ll also find hundreds of giant – and magnetic – cathedral termite mounds that are truly a sight to see. Ageing up to 100 years old, you won’t find mounds like these outside the northern parts of Australia. Stroll along the accessible boardwalk to see them up close.

    8. Darwin

    darwin street art
    Darwin art is streets ahead. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Mark Fitzpatrick)

    This list wouldn’t be complete without the territory’s capital city: Darwin. Situate yourself upon arrival with a stroll through the main streets, admiring the many art murals by local, interstate and international artists. They’re all remnants of the annual Darwin Street Art Festival , one of Australia’s longest running street art festivals.

    Stop to recharge along Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct , an area of delectable restaurants, public swimming pools and free events. And, of course, it would be wrong to leave the city without enjoying a bowl of laksa at Mindil Beach Sunset Market as the sun goes down.

    Learn more and start planning your Explorer’s Way road trip at northernterritory.com/drive.