qualia reviewed - is it still the world's best resort?

In 2012 an elegant simplicity and a fine attention to detail turned a corner of Hamilton Island into the best resort in the world. Is that still the case? We find out.

The best resort in the world? Here in Australia? No, you must be joking.

qualia Hamilton Island from above — Bird’s eye view, qualia (photo: Elise Hassey).

Such was the cry that went up in 2012, when the honour of all honours was bestowed on a humble island resort most commonly popularised as the 1980s home of the high-rise holiday, no less.

Yes, qualia , the gated luxury resort on the northern tip of Hamilton Island was awarded best luxury resort in the world by the readers of Conde Naste Traveller magazine. (ED: Australiantraveller.com co-founder Quentin Long likes to think he was ahead of the world, read his honeymoon in qualia experience)

But qualia’s secret ingredient is really not that mysterious but a fairly simple proposition: it’s lovely.

Snorkelling qualia Hamilton Island — Snorkelling is a must at Hamilton Island (photo: Elise Hassey).

But such simplicity is complex, of course; and much goes on behind the scenes here in order to achieve it. Here are some of the most surprising details from behind the scenes.

A grand entrance

Arriving at qualia is a little like rolling the opening credits of a Spielberg production: large wooden gates loom below even larger stone walls, a silently grandiose imposition on the tangle of ferns and palms that streak the sky. A bespoke carved slab of wood – made from local Sugarloaf mountain timber – confirms the resort’s presence, though the Relais & Chateaux placard is a lone hint at the pleasures beyond.

Long Pavillion qualia, Hamilton Island, Queensland. — The incredible Whitsunday vistas from the main building at qualia, the Long House.

It is a dramatic entrance, but the opening doors reveal a place of surprisingly earthy, simple pleasures. Paths wind around tropical sculptured gardens filled with small surprises: fat, juicy cluster figs begging to be plucked off native trees, harmless green tree snakes curl up on warm rocks, fluttering dragonflies and butterflies zoom through whispering leaves.

Refreshingly secluded: qualia, Hamilton Island.

The pavilions themselves are set in a wild tangle of eucalypts and the fingers of wispy palms; that joyous Whitsundays water twinkling between fronds from nearly all angles.

The overall impression is one without artifice, but careful landscaping is maintained at all times, and to a level of thoughtfulness that is quite extraordinary: the six or so kilometres of hedging lining the pathways, for example, are all hand-hedged, so that guests are never disturbed by garden machinery.

plunge pool qualia — Enjoy the Whitsunday vistas from your own plunge pool in a Windward pavilion.

A similarly intricate drip system – relating back to the Oatleys’ wine production days, and said to be personally monitored by family patriarch Robert Oatley – crisscrosses its way over the island, feeding hundreds of thousands of litres of treated, effluent water into the soil, itself a considered product of composting (which takes place on the mainland, in qualia’s 10 enormous worm farms).

Perhaps most illuminating, however, is the war being waged on weary grounds keepers by the island’s many wallabies. “We’ve tried everything to stop them from eating the spider lilies," says garden supervisor Andrew Collett, referring to the pretty natives that line pathways. “Even garlic." But this is their home, too, so grounds keepers do what they can to coexist in peace. When the marauding marsupials chewed away the grass beside the spa, it was simply replaced (for a cool $12,000). The garden must go on.

Luxe library

The coolest place in the Whitsundays (both literally and figuratively)? The library at qualia. With conservative red and navy cushioning, high timber ceilings and doors that whoosh when you open them – as if vacuum-sealed from reality – the library is, by all appearances, a space dedicated to serious readers.

Interior designers Freedman furnished qualia with fabrics and patterns inspired by nature (photo: Elise Hassey).

Until you begin perusing the books, that is. Beautifully presented and thoughtfully curated, with a selection that ranges from the esoteric and artful to a glossy tome on Valentino so enormous it requires its own table, there is nonetheless a relaxed quirk of Australian humour that streaks the shelves, something that perhaps best summarises the atmosphere at qualia.

Keep an eye out for the amusingly solid hardcover titled Luxury For Dogs. It’s the most well-thumbed book at the resort, which we’d suggest makes for a high endorsement of the guests who patronise the resort.

Outrageous proposals

People often burst into tears upon arriving at the main gates, says resort general manager Matthew Taverner, and you can understand why if only for the initial views, which are quite superb. But tears are more often engineered by staff, he says, who are well-trained in putting together special moments, discreet entrances and exits for guests of particular fame, and “outrageous proposals".

Sunset champagne pebble beach qualia — Sunset and champagne for two at qualia’s Pebble Beach? (photo: Elise Hassey).

He shares a personal favourite from the latter category: “The gentleman of the couple had organised a mock check-in down the road at the Reef View Hotel, and after they arrived, put their bags down in the room and so on, he suggested that they go for a little drive around the island.

qualia pool Hamilton Island — Languid pool time at qualia (photo: Elise Hassey).

“They showed up at qualia and they just happened to go for a tour of Pavilion 23 [a ‘Windward’ pavilion, facing outward from the island with a plunge pool, and a favourite of guests for its west-facing aspect] where the staff had arranged for her favourite tune to be playing on the iPod, when she walked in. He got down on one knee and, of course, that’s where they were actually staying."

qualia speedboat — The speedboat for guest use at qualia has been used for countless proposals

Indeed the staff are an exceptional part of the qualia experience, even if you’re not planning a proposal of marriage. Our suggestion: take a sailing lesson with Jessica Hansen, a sweet-natured young woman who happens to not only be rather good at encouraging first-timers to aptly sail the resort’s small yachts, but is also a world-champion in 18-foot and 29-foot skiff racing.

Or take a garden tour with one of the garden supervisors such as the aforementioned Andrew Collett, who’ll not only point out and pick edible fruits, and share the indigenous history and uses of certain plants, but will let you in on his favourite secret lookout spots. Or – perhaps our favourite – ask the staff to organise a seaplane experience for you. You really won’t appreciate the context of your World Heritage-listed environment until you’ve seen it from above, as these pictures attest.

Getting away from it all

What does it take to be the best spa in Australia? “More than massages," says spa manager Leah Hesse with a laugh. Of the 30 to 40 treatments performed here each day, most are package experiences lasting two to three hours, she says. There are a staggering range of complex- and exquisite-sounding treatments, including the particularly unique hot stone massage.

spa qualia — Spa qualia – book early for treatments otherwise you may miss out

This is carried out with warm stones called Bularri Yarrul, explains Hesse, which are taken from a riverbed in central Australia “by an indigenous man who picks them up and determines whether they’re ‘working stones’ or not by their feel".

It’s completed with the gift of a hand-painted stone, the proceeds of which return to the Aboriginal art community from whence it came.

There’s also another tip that guests aren’t necessarily aware of when it comes to all things spa – if you need somewhere to get away from getting away from it all, you can come here, even if you don’t have a booking, and enjoy a Vichy shower, then curl up in the relaxation area afterwards with an on-site, chef-made spa tea. All together now: ahhhh…

Suite perfection

For all the natural wonders and simple pleasures on offer here, there is one aspect of the resort most often lauded: the Windward Pavilions. With their magnificently pretty plunge pools and that joyous Whitsundays water as a backdrop, twinkling between fronds from nearly all angles, some might anticipate gold-plated taps and intricately folded towels, but they are quite the opposite: the details here are altogether more intuitive.

Bedroom qualia — A bedroom facing out to sea with the bathroom in the background at qualia.

Stone, wood and an enormous wall of glass allow for nature’s masterpiece to take pride of place, with retractable glass ‘windows’ in some pavilions that slide down entirely under floor, allowing entrance on to a balcony overlooking the water.

balcony qualia Hamilton Island — The deck chair with a view at a Windward pavilion, Hamilton Island.

The contents of the mini bar – organic, artisan, local, Australian – were finalised over a roundtable of 10 people, and involved consideration of 70 products. Meanwhile, pools are permanently heated to 28°C – approximately 2.5 degrees warmer than Olympic swimming pools are during competitions, explains Taverner, “and a pleasant temperature yearround".

View qualia windward pavilion — The view to Whitsunday island from a windward pavilion at qualia, Hamilton Island. Any more ocean view and you would be wet.

And, quite amazingly, every visitor is guaranteed that new feeling, every time they visit. Because each and every week, one pavilion is taken out of action for maintenance and completely stripped.

qualia Windward pavilion bath — The sumptuous free standiung bathtubs with a view of a Windward pavilion, qualia.

Floorboards are refinished, reprinted and revarnished, walls are repainted, air conditioners are retuned; and by the time every pavilion in the property has been properly finished, approximately five months later, it’s time to commence the renewal process all over again.

Living room qualia Windward pavilion — The living space and private plunge pool at a Windward pavilion at qualia

If luxury is the absence of problems, perhaps qualia is the epitome of luxury.

Get to qualia

Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia all fly direct to Hamilton Island’s Great Barrier Reef Airport. Accommodation includes transfers to and from the airport. If you’re coming from the Whitsunday Coast Airport in Proserpine, book a transfer to Abel Point Marina in Airlie Beach where it’s a 30-minute boat ride to the island.

Stay at qualia

A Leeward Pavilion suite at qualia is from $1350 a night with breakfast. The Windward Pavilion suites start at $2000 including breakfast. The Beach House is from $4800 a night with breakfast.

More qualia

Check out qualia, everything you need to know and australiantraveller.com’s co-founder’s honeymoon experience at qualia

Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

Getting there

car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland — Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

Best accommodation in Clermont

Theresa CreekDam in clermont — Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn .

Things to do in Clermont

three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting — Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters , Four Mile , Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings . To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting . They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum . Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland — See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services . Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs . The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

meal at Commercial Hotel — Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.

Qualia reviewed: still the world’s best luxury resort?