This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

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An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA
The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA
Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close
Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula
Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan
Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience
Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience
Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay
The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula
Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea
Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience
Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it
Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay
Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Embrace that Sunday feeling at Hamilton Island‘s newest resort

This new, family-friendly Hamilton Island resort embraces life in the slow lane.

White sand beaches, gentle waves and getting on ‘island time’ have always made Hamilton Island the first spot that comes to mind when thinking of Queensland’s Whitsundays. Always a place to recharge and relax, modern wellness travel here means so much more than a spa treatment or green juice. And a new kind of tropical island stay has now arrived on Hamilton Island.

pool at The Sundays Hamilton Island
Learn to slow down and rejuvinate. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

The Sundays reimagines laid-back luxury, combining boutique, beachfront accommodation with an encouragement to slow down and appreciate life’s simple pleasures so every day feels like Sunday.

Laid-back luxury

The Sundays is nestled into the picturesque gardens on the northern end of Catseye Beach. Despite a feeling of being away from it all, the resort is a conveniently short walk from Hamilton Island’s main resort centre and restaurants, so guests can have the best of both worlds.

This new boutique stay is all about savouring the now. From complimentary sunrise yoga to moonlight movies for kids and a daily sundae ritual by the beachside pool, it makes a compelling case for doing less, better.

Even the architecture is designed to harmonise with the surrounding tropical landscape, pairing soft curves with a grounded coastal style that shows off the panoramic Coral Sea views and adds to the hotel’s calm aesthetic.

Plus, with direct flights to Hamilton Island from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane in under two and a half hours, as well as complimentary hotel transfers from the airport or marina, getting here is as easy as the vacation itself.

balcony view from room at The Sundays
Enjoy fantastic views from your balcony or terrace. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

Perfectly designed rooms with amazing views

Every small detail has been considered in the creation of the 59 guest rooms and suites, from in-room amenities by LEIF to walls adorned with custom artworks by First Nations andHungarian artist Tiarna Herczeg. There’s even a signature in-room scent by The Raconteur.

Designed by Hamilton Island’s own designer, Carrie Williams, the result is relaxed Australian style using natural textures and soft hues to lull guests into a mellow state. This soothing palette runs throughout the resort, from its sun lounges to the shaded cabanas.

Every room and suite has been built with a balcony or terrace, perfectly framing postcard-perfect views of the surrounding reef and lush greenery.

inside a room at The Sundays
Stylish rooms feature natural, soothing tones. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

Excellent activities and amenities

Each day has been planned with a relaxed structure, so guests can get involved in as much or as little as they wish.

Greet each day with morning yoga, pilates and island walks. Recharge with daily (and deliciously complimentary) sundaes by the pool. Wind down with moonlight movies twice a week and take advantage of family-focused features.

Guests have complimentary access to a range of water sports – from stand-up paddle boards to catamarans – so they can get their blood pumping before relaxing by the resort pool.

Or take a few extra steps to set up for a day on the sand without any crowds at the exclusive, guest-only beach. Settle in with a poolside aperitif for a front-row view of the stunning Catseye Bay.

aerial shot of The Sundays pool and catseye beach
Find picturesque Catseye Beach on your doorstep. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Delectable dining

What is rejuvenation if not a hearty choice of fresh, delectable dishes? That’s what guests will discover at The Sundays’s onsite restaurant, Catseye Pool Club .

Open all day for hotel guests and lunch and dinner for island diners, this relaxed yet elevated menu was created by acclaimed culinary duo, Josh and Julie Niland. It celebrates that community feeling of mealtimes while championing seasonal Australian produce.

“The vision behind [Catseye Pool Club] reflects so much of what I value – bringing people together to create memories in beautiful surroundings,” explains Josh.

table spread including a lobster dish from Catseye Pool Club, The Sundays
Enjoy classic Aussie meals with a twist at Catseye Pool Club. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Based on elevated versions of classic Aussie family dinners, expect refined simplicity. Think roasted Sun Farms Sommerlad chicken with sides like chicken fat roast potatoes, gravy and tomato and grilled bread salad, or barbecued line-caught Bowen coral trout with garlic saltbush and Warrigal greens.

A day spent by the pool can be complemented by a dedicated poolside menu, featuring wood-fired souvas. Don’t want to leave the room? Kick back and soak in the views with tasty treats delivered straight to your door, whether you’re after a full breakfast or late night snack.

view from catseye pool club at The Sundays hamilton island
Enjoy dinner and a view. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Exploring the island

While daily life at The Sundays is very much about the art of staying still, guests who seek more can explore the island with ease.

Take a day trip to the striking Whitehaven Beach, or see the iconic Heart Reef from above on a helicopter tour. Pop over to Hamilton Island’s championship golf course for a hit, or explore over 12 kilometres of the island’s stunning nature and wildlife. Later, slow the pace back down with a visit to Spa wumurdaylin .

Looking for more tasty treats? Visit one of the island’s restaurants – there are more than 20 to choose from.

Hikers on passage peak hike on hamilton island
Take on the beautiful hikes of Hamilton Island. (Image: Nick Leary)

Book your stay at The Sundays through hamiltonisland.com.au.