Essential Guide To Visiting The Flinders Ranges

There are great rafts of information published about the Flinders Rangers. Here’s our distilled guide to the essential Flinders Rangers experiences, accommodation and dining options.

Top Five Reasons to Visit the Flinders Ranges

1. It’s the most accessible Outback in Australia, with excellent infrastructure and loads to see and do.

2. The ancient rocky landscapes are geographical marvels. Wilpena Pound from the air, the gorges and further north forms of uranium in some rocks are some amazing sights.

3. The best 4WD driving in the country, from easy to extremely challenging, half-day to multi-day journeys.

4. The walking is some of the most pleasurable outback walking in the country. There’s loads of wildlife. The Heysen trail starts here.

5. It’s historically rich. The Manhattan Project scientists were all over the northern Flinders Ranges during the war. Famous explorer Douglas Mawson saw glacial rocks in the Flinders that led him to his more renowned Antarctica expeditions.

Top Five Experiences in the Flinders

1. The Ridge Top Tour, Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Rangers

An outrageously rocky one-way 4WD track has been cut through the Northern Flinders. Piling into the back of a specially designed open top 4WD for the 4.5 hour journey is about more than just appreciating awesome scenery. Guides unearth the amazing geology, flora and fauna in the area. The history of the pioneering characters like Mawson and some of his students (like R S Sprigg who developed the tour) is an insight into one of the many unappreciated eras in Australian history. The highlight is arriving at the fall-off-the-cliff Sillar’s Lookout. Just make sure you’ve been to the bathroom before you leave because climbing to the top is a rough ride and a full bladder is the LAST thing you want.

2. Wilpena Pound Scenic Flight

See the Pound at its best with a morning flight around the edges of the bowl-shaped crater – not formed by a volcano or meteor but the earth’s shifting crust.

Bird's eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges — Bird’s eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges.

3. Sunset on the Chase

Another fierce 4WD (lucky someone else is driving) up to the top of the Chase Ranges to look back at Wilpena Pound and the Elders Ranges as the sunsets. In AT’s opinion, it’s better than the rock sunset. Catered by Rawnsley Park’s Woolshed Restaurant, this two-hour trip is best done with special someone.

4. Arkaba Walking Tours

It’s comfortable walking when you have your own guide and a swag waiting at the end of the day. Wine and dinner is done, all you need to do is carry water and lunch. The guides take you to secret treasures of the ranges, catering each walk to your desired comfort level.

5. Discover an Ancient Land

The full-day tour from Rawnsley Park takes you to the spectacular Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges. Keep an eye out for Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies, Emus and Euros while learning more about the history and geology of the place.

Best Places To Stay

Rawnsley Park Eco Villas

The Eco Villas on Rawnsley are the best value accommodation in the Flinders and are indulgent without being excessive. The huge spaces are great for relaxing after a tough day touring, set up with all the amenities you could want. Sit in the big bed and look up at night to see though the skylights to the stars – just magic. Beautifully designed and crafted, the villas are excellently positioned to take in the sunrise on the Elder ranges.

Wilpena Pound Resort

Recently updated, the old Chalet is now a resort. The Brachina Rooms are our pick but they’re also the closest to the resort reception and restaurant. Try and grab one away from the main entry for a little more privacy. The resort is comfortable but not plush and is the perfect base for exploring the area. From here you can strike out into the pound, take a flight or explore the historic old homesteads.

Arkaba Station

Well, this is living the high life. With just five rooms and a maximum number of 10 guests, this is intimate, exclusive and luxury in the Flinders. The ethos of the station is to make guests feel like a rich uncle has thrown them the keys to a manor and said help yourself. And you do. With a chef on hand for all meals, two hosts and two guides for walking, it’s not hard to enjoy yourself. The 1851 homestead has been beautifully restored and each room has its own quirks. Whether you want a cosy dinner under the stars or a guide-led activity, the ranges are your oyster.

Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

More known for its food than furnishings, the hotel has very comfortable and well-appointed rooms for travellers. The only downside is that they are on the plains fringing the ranges.
From $145 per double

Camping

There are loads of Camping grounds throughout the rangers. The most well maintained are at Wilpena Resort, Rawnsley Park and Arkaroola. Arkaroola also has cottage and lodge accommodation options.

Where to Eat

Woolshed Restaurant

The restaurant in the middle of the outback caters to all tastes and budgets and is a thriving regional hub for all travellers.

Prairie Hotel

World renowned for the Feral Mixed Grill where a camel sausage, emu pattie, goat chop and kangaroo fillet are all dished up on the very foreign mash potato. And for dessert, the quandong pie is a must. The restaurant has carved out a deserved reputation for serving up one of the great outback meals.

Characters

The Sprigg Family

The Sprigg Family (RJ started the private Arkarolla Wilderness Are in 1967) have a huge historical connection to the land and were pioneers of tourism in the area. Unfortunately, RJ passed away in 1994. His children, Margaret and Doug continue the tradition of preserving a spectacular wilderness and can be found at the homestead on most days. They have great yarns to tell.

The Smith Family

Tony and Julie Smith are fifth-generation Flinders Ranges Pastoralists. Passionate farmers, Tony and Julie have moved their business into the tourism sector. Typical farmer, Tony is quietly spoken but a fantastic operator. He and Julie are legends in the area and if you get the opportunity make sure you buy Tony a beer and ask him about the golden fox of the Flinders Ranges.

The Rasheeds

Like the Spriggs, the Rasheeds are synonymous with the area. Original settlers of the Wilpena Chalet, the twin sons of founder Keith and Dean ran separate entities in the area. Both have sold out of their interests but remain in the area. Keith is still involved in the Air Wilpena operation and is well-known for the pink headband on his Akubra and a pink jeep.

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

a beach winter in nsw — From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

The Tweed

In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre , which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .

visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre — Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

dining room at Bistro Livi — Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

Blue Mountains

The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing — Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains — End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Southern Highlands

Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral — Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral — Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

Penrith

Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

kayakers on the nepean river in penrith — Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.

The essential guide to visiting the Flinders Ranges