8 awe-inspiring things to do in the Flinders Ranges

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An open-air adventure playground, classroom and art gallery rolled into one, the Flinders Ranges has something for everyone.

Whether you’re looking for thrilling outdoor adventures, ancient fossils and vibrant contemporary artworks or epic lookout points where you can feel like the last person on earth, the range of things to do in the Flinders Ranges is limited only by your imagination. Hike, bike and 4WD through rugged rock country before camping out under the stars, or feast on native produce and learn about the rich cultural history on a guided tour with the Adnyamathanha traditional owners. The choice is yours.

1. Lose Yourself in Ikara (Wilpena Pound)

 

the steamy core of Ikara (Wilpena Pound), Flinders Ranges
Appreciate the vast amphithe­atre of moun­tains that is Ikara (Wilpe­na Pound). (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rising from the earth like the cone of an ancient volcano, Ikara (Wilpena Pound) is eye-catching even from a distance. But it’s not until you’re in the centre of the pound that you truly appreciate its full beauty. Surrounded by sheer walls of 800-million-year-old quartzite, this serene valley feels completely cut off from the surrounding ranges.

A dozen Ikara (Wilpena Pound) walks range from an interpretive trail showing how both Adnyamathanha people and European settlers survived in this arid land to more strenuous full-day treks that cut through mallee and native pine forest before climbing steep rock walls to reveal seasonal waterfalls and magnificent views both inside and outside the pound.

Adnyamathanha traditional owners ask visitors not to climb to the summit of St Mary Peak due to its cultural significance, but you can get even better views without working up a sweat on the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) scenic flights that depart throughout the day and let you take in the majesty of the site in one grand sweep.

2. Follow mountain bike trails in the Flinders Ranges

kangaroos in a canola flower field, Melrose
Spot Kangaroos as you cycle through Melrose on the Remarkable Epic Trail. (Image: Karen Von Bertouch)

The area around Mount Remarkable National Park in the southern Flinders has long been a hub for mountain bikers, and a pump track near the Showgrounds is a good spot to practice your skills before tackling the network of trails that crisscross the slopes above.

One hundred kilometres of single track ticks off every skill level from gentle cross-country to gnarly ridges and rock chutes, and the iconic Dodging Bullets even lets you ride through a ruined house.

But it’s the Remarkable Epic Trail that has riders flocking from around the country, a 39-kilometre beast that throws in 1500 metres of elevation change as it climbs the eastern face of Mt Remarkable, traverses the western flank, then descends into Spring Creek Gully and loops back beneath Gibraltar Rock and into Melrose. If you don’t want to bring your own gear, Over The Edge offers tours and has 40 bikes (both conventional and e-bikes) for hire.

3. Visit Flinders Ranges ghost towns

Couple explore Farina Historic Town
Find a bakery operating in the ruins of the Farina Historic Town during the winter. (Image: Tourism Australia)

When winter rains come to the Flinders Ranges, the rust-coloured mountains are covered with a low carpet of greenery, and the local fauna quickly multiplies to take advantage of the abundant food. A boom and bust cycle has also characterised human settlements in the region, many of which disappeared once drought hit or mineral seams were mined out.

Stroll the empty streets of once-thriving townships like Hammond and Beltana, and you can only imagine their former glory, while a visit to the ruins of the remote Nuccaleena Mine is a decidedly eerie experience. Just beyond the northern tip of the ranges, a team of volunteers in Farina is helping to reverse the decline by bringing the ruins to life and operating a bakery for eight weeks every winter.

4. Disappear into the gorges of Ikara-Flinders Ranges

the scenic Brachina Gorge in Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park
The scenic Brachina Gorge is tucked at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

From afar, the Flinders Ranges look like an impenetrable fortress, but once you begin exploring the area, you’ll discover innumerable gullies, gulches and gorges worn through the rock over millions of years.

The steep-sided walls of Brachina Gorge at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park don’t merely provide a convenient way to cut through the mountains. They also lay bare 130 million years of geological history. A 20-kilometre Geological Trail points out the fossils, folds and faults that shaped this landscape, and the trail includes a Golden Spike that marks the official boundary between geological eras (the only one in the Southern Hemisphere).

Further north, scenic Parachilna Gorge connects the centre of the ranges with the flat red plains of the outback beyond. Filled with striking rock formations and gum-lined creekbeds, this photogenic spot is one of the best free campsites in the Flinders Ranges. If you visit in the early morning or late afternoon, you may even be lucky enough to see yellow-footed rock wallabies hopping between the rocky outcrops.

5. Tackle one of the many Flinders Ranges walks

Kids in Ikara-Flinders Ranges
There are walks and tours to suit even the youngest explorers. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Winding all the way from the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge, the 1200-kilometre Heysen Trail is one of the longest hiking trails in the world, and the mountainous northern reaches take in some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery.

But if you don’t want to commit to a multi-day trek, there are plenty of shorter Flinders Ranges walks worth tackling as well. It only takes an hour to reach the vibrant ochre and charcoal paintings at Akurra Adnya (Arkaroo Rock) or the narrow defile between sandstone walls at Alligator Gorge.

Those up for a more challenging option can follow a rocky creekbed to a series of tranquil permanent waterholes filled with shockingly cool water at Blinman Pools, while the strenuous climb up to Rawnsley Bluff rewards hikers with expansive views out over the surrounding ranges.

6. Stargaze at Arkaroola Observatory

the Arkaroola Astronomical Observatory under the starry night sky
Discover the secrets of the cosmos. (Image: Maxime Coquard)

Ever looked up at the night sky and wondered how the great explorers of old used the heavens to navigate? Or how civilisations from the Greeks to the Aztecs turned the stars into a connect-the-dots picture book of larger-than-life heroes? You can ponder these and other, bigger questions while falling asleep under the night sky at campgrounds across the Flinders Ranges. Or you can unlock the secrets of the cosmos at Arkaroola Observatory .

The complete absence of light pollution means that you won’t need any help to see the dark emu hidden in the smear of stars that make up the Milky Way, and specially designed reclining chairs and powerful observatories provide the perfect setting for passionate guides to reveal the mysteries of the star-filled sky.

No matter how much time you set aside to take in the sweeping views of this colourful eroded mountain range, it’s never quite enough. But you can make them last a little longer by stopping in at Hawker on the way home and visiting Jeff Morgan Gallery .

Among the supersized murals on display is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama that covers 46 metres of canvas and has its own lookout tower. It’s a chance to enjoy this spectacular landscape without the flies or heat, and Morgan’s brushstrokes help to soften the edges of this sometimes harsh landscape. Even better, the pieces for sale let you enjoy the glorious views from home.

8. Take the 4WD tracks off-road for a different perspective

an aerial view of a 4WD driving along Bunyeroo Valley, Flinders Ranges
Drive some of the finest 4WD tracks in Australia, including Bunyeroo Valley. (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rocky terrain, razor-thin ridges and some seriously steep slopes mean the best 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges rank among Australia’s finest. Things go from mild to wild quickly, but novice 4WDers can get their bearings on graded roads through Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges.

More experienced offroaders can tackle tracks on private properties, including Willow Springs Station , Bendleby Ranges and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, which let you undertake a real challenge, safe in the knowledge that help is never too far away.

But if you want to visit the most spectacular lookout point in the entire Flinders Ranges, you’ll need to let a guide take the wheel. That allows you to take your eyes off the road and enjoy the scenery as the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour crawls above sheer drop-offs into terrifyingly deep valleys before emerging at the breathtaking Sillers Lookout, which affords views deep into the ranges and out over the seemingly endless plains beyond.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Inside Geelong’s glow-up from factory town to creative capital

Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated. 

Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.  

Geelong cellar door wine bar
Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct 

Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.  

Paddock Bakery andPatisserie
Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

At Paddock , one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand. 

Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design 

Paddock Bakery
Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

“A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.  

And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.  

As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.  

The rise of a food and wine destination  

boiler house
Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915 Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco. 

Woolstore
The Woolstore is a new restaurant and bar housed within a century-old warehouse. (Image: Amy Carlon)

 The Woolstore , one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.  

Woolstore menu
Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

Breathing new life into historic spaces  

On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.  

“We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.” 

Provenance Wines
Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.  

handcrafted pieces
Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”  

A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”  

Elizabeth Bell
Ceramicist Elizabeth Bell has a store in Fyansford Paper Mill.