8 awe-inspiring things to do in the Flinders Ranges

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An open-air adventure playground, classroom and art gallery rolled into one, the Flinders Ranges has something for everyone.

Whether you’re looking for thrilling outdoor adventures, ancient fossils and vibrant contemporary artworks or epic lookout points where you can feel like the last person on earth, the range of things to do in the Flinders Ranges is limited only by your imagination. Hike, bike and 4WD through rugged rock country before camping out under the stars, or feast on native produce and learn about the rich cultural history on a guided tour with the Adnyamathanha traditional owners. The choice is yours.

1. Lose Yourself in Ikara (Wilpena Pound)

 

the steamy core of Ikara (Wilpena Pound), Flinders Ranges
Appreciate the vast amphithe­atre of moun­tains that is Ikara (Wilpe­na Pound). (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rising from the earth like the cone of an ancient volcano, Ikara (Wilpena Pound) is eye-catching even from a distance. But it’s not until you’re in the centre of the pound that you truly appreciate its full beauty. Surrounded by sheer walls of 800-million-year-old quartzite, this serene valley feels completely cut off from the surrounding ranges.

A dozen Ikara (Wilpena Pound) walks range from an interpretive trail showing how both Adnyamathanha people and European settlers survived in this arid land to more strenuous full-day treks that cut through mallee and native pine forest before climbing steep rock walls to reveal seasonal waterfalls and magnificent views both inside and outside the pound.

Adnyamathanha traditional owners ask visitors not to climb to the summit of St Mary Peak due to its cultural significance, but you can get even better views without working up a sweat on the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) scenic flights that depart throughout the day and let you take in the majesty of the site in one grand sweep.

2. Follow mountain bike trails in the Flinders Ranges

kangaroos in a canola flower field, Melrose
Spot Kangaroos as you cycle through Melrose on the Remarkable Epic Trail. (Image: Karen Von Bertouch)

The area around Mount Remarkable National Park in the southern Flinders has long been a hub for mountain bikers, and a pump track near the Showgrounds is a good spot to practice your skills before tackling the network of trails that crisscross the slopes above.

One hundred kilometres of single track ticks off every skill level from gentle cross-country to gnarly ridges and rock chutes, and the iconic Dodging Bullets even lets you ride through a ruined house.

But it’s the Remarkable Epic Trail that has riders flocking from around the country, a 39-kilometre beast that throws in 1500 metres of elevation change as it climbs the eastern face of Mt Remarkable, traverses the western flank, then descends into Spring Creek Gully and loops back beneath Gibraltar Rock and into Melrose. If you don’t want to bring your own gear, Over The Edge offers tours and has 40 bikes (both conventional and e-bikes) for hire.

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3. Visit Flinders Ranges ghost towns

Couple explore Farina Historic Town
Find a bakery operating in the ruins of the Farina Historic Town during the winter. (Image: Tourism Australia)

When winter rains come to the Flinders Ranges, the rust-coloured mountains are covered with a low carpet of greenery, and the local fauna quickly multiplies to take advantage of the abundant food. A boom and bust cycle has also characterised human settlements in the region, many of which disappeared once drought hit or mineral seams were mined out.

Stroll the empty streets of once-thriving townships like Hammond and Beltana, and you can only imagine their former glory, while a visit to the ruins of the remote Nuccaleena Mine is a decidedly eerie experience. Just beyond the northern tip of the ranges, a team of volunteers in Farina is helping to reverse the decline by bringing the ruins to life and operating a bakery for eight weeks every winter.

4. Disappear into the gorges of Ikara-Flinders Ranges

the scenic Brachina Gorge in Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park
The scenic Brachina Gorge is tucked at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

From afar, the Flinders Ranges look like an impenetrable fortress, but once you begin exploring the area, you’ll discover innumerable gullies, gulches and gorges worn through the rock over millions of years.

The steep-sided walls of Brachina Gorge at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park don’t merely provide a convenient way to cut through the mountains. They also lay bare 130 million years of geological history. A 20-kilometre Geological Trail points out the fossils, folds and faults that shaped this landscape, and the trail includes a Golden Spike that marks the official boundary between geological eras (the only one in the Southern Hemisphere).

Further north, scenic Parachilna Gorge connects the centre of the ranges with the flat red plains of the outback beyond. Filled with striking rock formations and gum-lined creekbeds, this photogenic spot is one of the best free campsites in the Flinders Ranges. If you visit in the early morning or late afternoon, you may even be lucky enough to see yellow-footed rock wallabies hopping between the rocky outcrops.

5. Tackle one of the many Flinders Ranges walks

Kids in Ikara-Flinders Ranges
There are walks and tours to suit even the youngest explorers. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Winding all the way from the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge, the 1200-kilometre Heysen Trail is one of the longest hiking trails in the world, and the mountainous northern reaches take in some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery.

But if you don’t want to commit to a multi-day trek, there are plenty of shorter Flinders Ranges walks worth tackling as well. It only takes an hour to reach the vibrant ochre and charcoal paintings at Akurra Adnya (Arkaroo Rock) or the narrow defile between sandstone walls at Alligator Gorge.

Those up for a more challenging option can follow a rocky creekbed to a series of tranquil permanent waterholes filled with shockingly cool water at Blinman Pools, while the strenuous climb up to Rawnsley Bluff rewards hikers with expansive views out over the surrounding ranges.

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6. Stargaze at Arkaroola Observatory

the Arkaroola Astronomical Observatory under the starry night sky
Discover the secrets of the cosmos. (Image: Maxime Coquard)

Ever looked up at the night sky and wondered how the great explorers of old used the heavens to navigate? Or how civilisations from the Greeks to the Aztecs turned the stars into a connect-the-dots picture book of larger-than-life heroes? You can ponder these and other, bigger questions while falling asleep under the night sky at campgrounds across the Flinders Ranges. Or you can unlock the secrets of the cosmos at Arkaroola Observatory.

The complete absence of light pollution means that you won’t need any help to see the dark emu hidden in the smear of stars that make up the Milky Way, and specially designed reclining chairs and powerful observatories provide the perfect setting for passionate guides to reveal the mysteries of the star-filled sky.

No matter how much time you set aside to take in the sweeping views of this colourful eroded mountain range, it’s never quite enough. But you can make them last a little longer by stopping in at Hawker on the way home and visiting Jeff Morgan Gallery.

Among the supersized murals on display is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama that covers 46 metres of canvas and has its own lookout tower. It’s a chance to enjoy this spectacular landscape without the flies or heat, and Morgan’s brushstrokes help to soften the edges of this sometimes harsh landscape. Even better, the pieces for sale let you enjoy the glorious views from home.

8. Take the 4WD tracks off-road for a different perspective

an aerial view of a 4WD driving along Bunyeroo Valley, Flinders Ranges
Drive some of the finest 4WD tracks in Australia, including Bunyeroo Valley. (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rocky terrain, razor-thin ridges and some seriously steep slopes mean the best 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges rank among Australia’s finest. Things go from mild to wild quickly, but novice 4WDers can get their bearings on graded roads through Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges.

More experienced offroaders can tackle tracks on private properties, including Willow Springs Station, Bendleby Ranges and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, which let you undertake a real challenge, safe in the knowledge that help is never too far away.

But if you want to visit the most spectacular lookout point in the entire Flinders Ranges, you’ll need to let a guide take the wheel. That allows you to take your eyes off the road and enjoy the scenery as the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour crawls above sheer drop-offs into terrifyingly deep valleys before emerging at the breathtaking Sillers Lookout, which affords views deep into the ranges and out over the seemingly endless plains beyond.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.