Find Tasmania’s (not so) hidden Indigenous culture

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Vernacular Indigenous Australian architecture is not something we hear about often. Yet it existed, and vestiges remain. On the west coast of Tasmania, you might come across depressions – large circular hollows dug into the top of small hills, dunes or middens – that were once Aboriginal huts: large beehive-shaped structures of wood and bark that would accommodate up to 14 people.

This is just one fascinating example of the Indigenous culture that is hidden in plain sight in a state where a pervasive myth throughout much of the 20th century did its best to erase it. Today, the word palawa refers to Tasmanian Aboriginal people as a whole, but encompasses the many different groups from all around Tasmania, or lutruwita, in the revived palawa kani language. Here are ways you can experience this culture through both a contemporary and historical lens today.

On tour

bay of fires larapuna tasmania
Larapuna/Bay of Fires.

The Wukalina Walk was a quiet revolution when it launched in early 2018 as Tasmania’s first Indigenous owned and operated tourism venture. A four-day walk in the state’s north-east, around the spectacular landscapes of the larapuna/Bay of Fires and wukalina/Mt William areas, it invites guests to reacquaint themselves with this land as the cultural homeland of the palawa.

 

Two nights of the trip are spent at the bespoke camp, krakani lumi, which means place of rest; these award-winning communal huts are directly influenced by traditional Aboriginal Tasmanian domed architecture.

krakani lumi tasmania
Krakani lumi.

Local and family-owned Kooparoona Niara Tours runs bespoke day trips through the Meander Valley near Launceston that combine visits to Aboriginal cultural sites and a view of contemporary Indigenous culture with a taste of the region’s standout produce – think truffles, salmon and wine.

 

Local outdoor educator and cultural adventure tour operator Ben Rea, of Tasmanian E-Bike Adventures, has paired with Sheldon Thomas, a Tasmanian Aboriginal healer, cultural and ceremonial guide to create one of the most unique Indigenous experiences you’ll find in Tasmania.

 

Their Nohoiner Adventure is a day-long Aboriginal on-Country adventure on the Forestier Peninsula in the state’s south-east – a remarkable historic place in the cultural story of Tasmania and Australia’s settlement history. Here, guests are immersed in cultural lore and healing ceremonies, are treated to a seasonal picnic of local bush foods, and visit the site of original contact and conflict between Tasmanian Aboriginal people and European explorers.

nohoiner adventure tasmania
The Nohoiner Adventure.

“Sheldon and I co-created the Nohoiner Adventure to empower an authentic experience for guests to connect with the Tasmanian Aboriginal story through a cultural immersion that deepens guests’ understanding of Aboriginal perspectives in a wild Tasmanian natural setting," says Rea. “It shines light on the spiritual healing knowledge and wisdom of our first people and their sacred connection to Country. Through conversation and story sharing framed with ceremony and ritual, guests gain insight and understanding that inspires personal growth and a deep appreciation of the cultural, historic and spiritual values of our island home, Tasmania." Watch this space for further joint ventures.

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At museums and galleries

The always-engaging Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery (TMAG) is a good introduction to Tasmanian Aboriginal culture, heritage and current perspectives. As well as hosting
contemporary exhibitions such as Julie Gough’s Past Tense, part of Dark Mofo’s lineup last year, it has two permanent exhibitions dedicated to engaging visitors on all things palawa.

 

The newly refreshed ningina tunapri (‘to give knowledge and understanding’) presents 40,000 years of Tasmanian Aboriginal culture in a highly engaging way and Our land: parrawa, parrawa! Go away! is an affecting exhibition in the old Bond Store Galleries that tells the story of Aboriginal people and colonists following the invasion of lutruwita, focusing on the Black War.

 

Not far from TMAG, a stone’s throw from Hobart’s waterfront, ART MOB is a gallery that specialises in Tasmanian Aboriginal art with a number of rare pieces as well as prints and paintings by well-known Tasmanian Aboriginal artists.

In your hotel

Check into MACq 01 – on the traditional lands of the Mouhenneener people – for an immersive portal into Tasmania’s Indigenous history. This slickly designed hotel on Hobart’s waterfront is a storytelling hotel that brings together the tales of real-life characters who have played a role in Tasmania’s past, palawa inspirations among them, including resistance fighter and chieftain of the Plangermaireener people, Mannalargenna, and his granddaughter Dolly Dalrymple, who became a hero in her own right.

macq 01 hobart
Check into the MACq 01.

“Our Indigenous stories are some of our most powerful," says MACq 01’s storyteller Justin Johnstone, “and although tragedy is woven through their stories, the thing that keeps coming up and up in so many is a sense of grounded determination and resilience." One hundred and fourteen tales are told throughout the rooms and suites, and spill out beyond. “When you walk in the front door of MACq 01, the first thing you see are the palawa artefacts and stories," says Johnstone. “That’s as it should be. They’re our first stories."

 

The Lounge in particular is an ode to the palawa: centred around a fire pit, the original storytelling nucleus, and cast in light that represents the kelp forests of the Derwent River. “The kelp was a significant resource for the palawa in the coastal regions," explains Johnstone. “It could be worked like leather or shaped and hardened into carrying and storage vessels with an almost a Bakelite-like texture. The kelp also attracted aquatic life, providing many other sources of nutrition."

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In the wild

Tasmania’s wilderness areas are living cultural landscapes that preserve the heritage of the palawa, who have lived in, used, managed and modified this landscape for more than 42,000 years.

 

The Takayna/Tarkine region of Tasmania’s north-west is a particularly interesting place that takes its name from the ancient culture of the Tarkiner people, who once occupied the coastal region near Sandy Cape.

tarkine region tasmania
The Tarkine coast.

Today, the coastal area of this rainforest wilderness area is strewn with middens, hut sites and other artefacts that make this coastline one of the richest human archaeological zones on the planet. Follow the Tarkine Drive, packed with walking tracks, lookouts, cultural sites and picnic spots, or join a six-day walk of the Tarkine Coast with Tarkine Trails.

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.
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Why you should visit these iconic Tassie destinations

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Tasmania’s crisp clear air, misty mountains, lakes and ancient forests beckon as winter approaches.

    Travelling in the off season has many benefits, none more so in Tasmania, where it’s uncrowded and uncomplicated. Ease into winter with a getaway that spells relaxing with a glass of wine or local whisky, bathing under the stars, or gazing at reflections in pristine waters. Add fireside dining, wilderness walks, after-dark gallery visits and plenty of history and you’ve got a curated winter escape designed to make travelling in the quieter months of the year even more rewarding. NRMA Parks and Resorts’ Off Season Signature Packages across Tasmania (plus 10 per cent off for members) make all these things possible.

    Cosy up at Cradle Mountain

    two women walking aorund Cradle Mountain Hotel NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Immerse into the wilderness at Cradle Mountain Hotel.

    For an alpine wilderness experience like no other, chose Cradle Mountain Hotel for a winter getaway. You may even wake up to gently falling snow. Explore nearby Dove Lake, gaze at Cradle Mountain is and listen to the gush of waterfalls.

    As Cradle Mountain works its charm, slow down to enjoy the crisp alpine air away from the hustle of the city. There are no crowds here, just serenity and the chance to recalibrate.

    Cradle Mountain’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast daily, a bottle of wine (Retreat rom bookings only) and off-season dessert with dinner. Then sip on mulled wine as you wander through the Wilderness Gallery admiring the work of Tasmanian artists.

    Finding the flavours of Freycinet

    aerial of Freycinet Lodge NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Stay at the only accommodation within beautiful Freycinet National Park.

    As the only accommodation within Freycinet National Park, among the many reasons for staying at Freycinet Lodge is its easy access to stunning Wineglass Bay, Mt Amos and Honeymoon Bay.

    By day it’s the place for communing with nature, taking hikes in some of Tasmania’s most beautiful locations. By night, savour the regional seasonal flavours of the east coast, sip mulled wine to keep out the chill and gaze up at the star-studded skies. This is slow coastal indulgence at its best.

    Freycinet Lodge’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast daily, a hosted Flavours of the East Coast food and wine tasting experience and mulled wine under the stars, or beside the fire, after dinner.

    Escape to lakeside Pumphouse Point

    interior of pumphouse point NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Stay cosy while looking out onto Lake St Clair.

    Set on the edge of beautiful Lake St Clair in native bushland in the heart of Tasmania’s Central Highlands, Pumphouse Point has launched a new era for its boutique accommodation with the opening of two new luxury retreat rooms last October.

    Each of the trio of rooms are thoughtfully designed, with an indoor fireplace and deep-soak bathtub, both perfect for a winter escape. This retreat offers dining and an expanded collection of hosted experiences, including a guided tour to learn more about this historic place, chocolate tastings and whisky tasting from local artisans – with more to come later in the season.

    Borrow an e-bike and explore on your own, throw a line in, head off for a hike in the ancient forests that surround the lake, book a relaxing massage, or just settle in for an evening by the fire as the lake works its own magic.

    Pumphouse Point’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast, larder lunch and dinner, a bottle of wine with dinner each night, and a chocolate or whisky tasting experience, as well as two $50 massage vouchers.

    Slow down in Strahan Village

    aerial of boat going through strahan tasmania
    Explore UNESCO world heritage wilderness.

    As the gateway to UNESCO world heritage wilderness, picturesque Strahan Village is the ideal base for exploring Tassie’s west coast. With a wide range of accommodation choices, from cosy waterfront colonial-style cottages to hotel rooms with sweeping views over Macquarie Harbour, it’s the perfect place for slow travel.

    Join Gordon River Cruises to explore ancient wilderness and magical reflections on the Gordon River, wander through the village at your own pace or hire a bike to discover local secrets and attractions, including the iconic West Coast Wilderness Railway. Thrill-seekers can hire taboggans to hit the towering Henty Dunes.

    Strahan’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, a Gordon River cruise for two and mulled wine at Hamer’s Bistro.

    Delve into history in Port Arthur

    interior of glamping tent at Port Arthur Holiday Park NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Glamp under the stars at Port Arthur Holiday Park.

    Spend your evenings glamping under the stars and your days stepping back in time as you explore the captivating stories of the World Heritage listed Port Arthur Historic Site. Port Arthur Holiday Park is the perfect base for exploring the Tasman Peninsula and uncovering the stories of Australia’s colonial and convict past.

    Surrounded by nature and history, this off-season escape has the all the makings of an unforgettable getaway. All glamping tents are heated to keep you warm during the off-season months when the nights get a little cooler, and have private bathrooms. Stargazing tents have the added luxury of an outdoor bath on the verandah.

    The Port Arthur Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, a Port Arthur Historic Site tour for two and 10 per cent discount for dining at local restaurant On The Bay during your stay.

    Start planning an unforgetable trip to Tasmania with NRMA Resorts at nrmaparksandresorts.com.au.