The best snorkelling and diving sites around Christmas Island

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Proclaimed an Australian Marine Park in 2022, there’s no better time to plan a snorkelling or diving adventure to the pristine waters off Christmas Island.

Christmas Island first appeared about 60 million years ago when the peak of a basalt volcanic seamount (submarine volcano) rose steeply some 5000 metres from the ocean floor. Located in the Indian Ocean, which wraps around the bays and beaches like a piece of glittering tin, Christmas Island is a magnet for ocean lovers, divers and snorkellers who are drawn to the unique marine environment that is oft-described as Australia’s Galapagos. Christmas Island has now been declared a marine park – here is our guide to the best snorkelling and diving sites dotted around Christmas Island, where the average water temperatures range from a balmy 27 to 29°C.

Best beaches and coves for snorkelling on Christmas Island

Flying Fish Cove

Snorkellers are advised to wear reef shoes to protect their feet from sharp coral and stonefish as they enter the warm clear waters of the Indian Ocean from Flying Fish Cove. The cove is popular with families due to the fact it’s a relatively protected swimming area and has BBQ facilities to boot; it’s also a top spot to surf when there’s a swell running. According to Diveplanit.com, 90 per cent of all the species that are found on Christmas Island can be found in Flying Fish Cove, including the freckled hawkish, octopus, hawksbill turtles, lionfish and blue-lined surgeonfish. The beach faces west, so arrive to see the setting sun colour the horizon, cold drink in hand. Join Christmas Island Freedive instructor David Mulheron in the clear, calm waters off Flying Fish Cove, which is an 80-metre swim from the jetty. The champion freediver believes Christmas Island to be one of the best freediving locations in the world and will guide you to some amazing coral gardens. Flying Fish Cove is also a popular surfing spot.

 

Best for: Families and freediving enthusiasts

Underneath Flying Fish Cove.
Underneath Flying Fish Cove.

Ethel Beach

The waters off Ethel Beach are a great option for snorkelling and swimming if the seas off Flying Fish Cove are too rough. As with all of the beaches on CI, you will need to consider the prevailing conditions on the day before you make a decision to enter the water. The colourful reefs that fringe Ethel Beach are teeming with marine life and this northern section of the Christmas Island coastline has some of the most pristine examples of unspoiled coral in the world just offshore. Look out from shore for giant frigate birds and the flick of a whale shark tail during the season and keep your eyes peeled for pelagic fish such as wahoo while in the water. Again, reef shoes should be worn on the beach to protect your feet. Those who suffer from seasickness will be pleased to know it’s just a short boat ride away to encounter whale sharks and manta rays.

 

Best for: Keen snorkellers

Christmas Island crabs at Ethel Beach
Ethel Beach is teeming with marine life in and out of the water.

West White Beach

West White Beach is located on the island’s north coast and features a tall forest of trees that seem to dance and sway in unison, like a chorus line. The trek to get to the beach is quite challenging and, after a moderately difficult hike through the beautiful rainforest, access to the beach is gained via a rope designed to facilitate the descent down a small but steep section of the cliff. Make sure you wear sturdy walking shoes and bring a backpack so you can fill it with water bottles and snorkel gear. A pair of polarised sunglasses are also required to cut down on the glare bouncing off the gleaming white-sand beach and better appreciate those spectacular views. Snorkelling is a must-do while on Christmas Island due to the dazzling array of fish and the fact you might find yourself swimming alongside turtles or dolphins.

 

Best for: Fitness freaks

Swim alongside tropical fish.
Swim alongside tropical fish.

Dolly Beach

The trees act as a windbreak on Dolly Beach, which is a pretty, quiet pocket just 30 minutes from town and accessible by a boardwalk that meanders through the rainforest. Understand why the tag Australia’s Galapagos has merit when you dance barefoot along this secluded beach which is a nesting place for marine turtles; visitors to the beach will often come across the tracks of adults and hatchlings who have waddled across the sand. Dolly Beach is fringed by palms, which appeals to the resident coconut crabs. The giant crabs, also known as robber crabs, are the world’s biggest land crustaceans and seeing them lurching along the sand is surreal.

 

Best for: Wildlife lovers

Marine turtles Dolly Beach
Marine turtles nest on and around Dolly Beach.

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Winifred Beach

This pretty little beach can only be accessed by 4WD at low tide, which means you will often have it to yourself. After bouncing along a rough section of the pot-holed track, which runs like a frayed ribbon through the rainforest, you will arrive at Winifred Beach car park, and it’s totally worth it. You must then descend via a steep cliff-face staircase to the beach. After a few hours snorkelling, explore the rockpools where the water eddies around your ankles, write your name in a flowery script in the sand and look out for spinner dolphins frolicking offshore. Check with the Visitor Centre for daily tide times and talk to the team at Extra Divers to arrange a guided snorkelling session or take a deeper dive from their boat on a half-day dive trip. Time your visit to the island between November to April to see giant whale sharks cruising around Christmas Island.

 

Best for: Intrepid types

Extra Divers Christmas Island
Go diving with the team at Extra Divers.

Best sites for diving on Christmas Island

West White Beach Cave

Enter the West White Beach Cave adjacent to White Beach via one of two large entrances separated by a large limestone column, with the walls of the chamber painted a rainbow of colours and shelved with whips, fans and electric clams. Novice snorkellers will be buoyed by the fact the cave is only 12 metres deep, so it is not claustrophobic. Venture outside the mouth of the cave to brave the 12-metre to 18-metre drop-off into the big blue, which is a comfortable descent for those new to diving.

 

Best for: Diving newbies will appreciate this gentle introduction to cave diving, as they don’t need to venture too deep to see the colourful reef.

 

Highlight for visitors: Getting a few shots for your Instagram silhouetted against the blue backdrop.

West White Beach Cave
Enter the West White Beach Cave.

Perpendicular Wall

Christmas Island emerges from the Java Trench, which is about 3000 metres deep, and is lapped by seas that change from aquamarine to cobalt blue and minty green. The dive to Perpendicular Wall starts off in a shallow cave, where the seafloor is decorated with red fan coral, like beautiful branching bouquets. Swim out to a wall that reveals schools of triggerfish and pyramid butterflyfish feeding on algae, which spills over sections of the reef like a fuzzy neon-green fringe.

 

Best for: Divers who like to go to great depths to tick off rare and unusual fish species.

 

Highlight for visitors: The high probability of seeing manta rays, whale sharks and other large pelagic fish.

Flying Fish Cove

Head to the western edge of Flying Fish Cove and follow the boat ramp to the drop-off point, which is about 18 metres deep, where a huge wall of water suddenly turns translucent blue. Ranked by Diveplanit.com as ‘one of the best shore dives on the planet’, Flying Fish Cove is home to a whopping 90 per cent of all the species found around Christmas Island. To be guided by an expert, CI Fishing and Adventure offer intimate snorkelling charters for small groups, or if it’s just you and your diving buddy, be sure to flipper over the edge of the drop-off; it’s like falling in slow-motion through melting glass.

 

Best for: Those new to diving who are looking for an easy, accessible experience.

 

Highlight for visitors: According to locals, you will see more fish and coral species in one dive here than you’ll see across the island.

Flying Fish
Flying Fish offers an easy, accessible experience.

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Thundercliff Cave

The entrance to Thundercliff Cave is submerged, so to access it, you must first descend six metres to a corrugated sandy bottom and then swim into the inky gloom through an almost Gothic archway. You can surface once inside Thundercliff Cave as there is a large air pocket. The large limestone cavern features a spectacular collection of stalactites, like Gaudi-esque chandeliers dripping down from the ceiling. This almost make-believe landscape also includes a smaller tunnel then opens out into a second large chamber where you can also surface for a breather.

 

Best for: Beginner-level divers with cave certification.

 

Highlight for visitors: The beautiful beds of coral resemble flower gardens and attract huge flocks of resident batfish.

Million Dollar Bommie

Underwater photographers from around the world have the Million Dollar Bommie on their bucket list. It’s considered one of the best diving spots on Christmas Island and is certainly up there as one of the best diving spots in the world. The bommie is about seven metres high, growing up from a base of about 26 metres, and wearing a pretty pettiskirt made out of delicate sea fans. Find pigfish, mimic surgeonfish and red fire gobi peeking out between the sea fans and coral overhangs, which offer spectacular backdrops for photography. You might also spot Meyer’s butterflyfish, coral trout, damsel fish, fusiliers, triggerfish, and rock cod.

 

Best for: Advanced, experienced divers

 

Highlight for visitors: The Million Dollar Bommie is a huge draw for divers because of the variety of fish living in a single, concentrated area. The light on the top of the bommie is cinematic, and the candy-coloured coral makes it a great place to photograph fish. Keep your eye out for a majestic manta ray, which can often be found flying through the water.

Rhoda Wall

Rhoda Wall is a magic place for pelagic lovers and, on a clear day, the visibility is so good it’s like looking through a pane of glass. Peer down into the pale blue from the comfort of your dive boat and you may be able to see grey reef sharks gliding through the water 30 metres below. There is no shortage of great diving sites around Christmas Island, but this coral-lined wall off the northwest coast of the island is full of wonders, sloping down gently in graded shades of blue before falling into a vertical wall at the 20-metre mark. Find great examples of fractal coral and hydrocorals here and colourful tropical reef fish swirling about. Beyond the slope there are some beautiful coral stacks, like packs of colourful cards, and large plate corals, too. Be one of just six divers on an intimate tour with Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures, who have been operating on the island since 1996. Japanese-born operator Teruki Hamanaka says while most divers are happy with a full-length 3mm wetsuit, those who feel the cold can also request a 5 mm steamer or a neoprene hood.

 

Best for: Advanced divers

 

Highlight for visitors: There are some beautiful royal blue hydrocorals attached to the wall like artworks and yellow and pink fusiliers that dart up and down the wall. Look out for megafauna: during the season (November to March), you are likely to see massive whale sharks swimming by.

Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures
Be one of just six divers on an intimate tour with Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures.

 

Read our guide to Christmas Island for more about this unique Indian Ocean destination.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti has written across print and digital for Australian Traveller and International Traveller for more than a decade and has spent more than two decades finding excuses to eat well and travel far. A prestigious News Corp cadetship launched her career at The Cairns Post, before a stint at The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald gave way to extended wanders through Canada, the US, Mexico, Central America, Asia and Europe. Carla was chief sub editor at delicious and has contributed to Good Food, Travel & Luxury, Explore Travel, Escape. While living in London, Carla was on staff at Condé Nast Traveller and The Sunday Times Travel desk and was part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK.
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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

    Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

    Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

    1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

    Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park, just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

    Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

    2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

    Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole, open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

    Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
    Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

    The Tiwi Islands, a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

    Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

    A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
    Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

    4. Dine in Darwin

    Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets, Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets.

    Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

    A bowl of Laksa.
    Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

    5. Up close with Uluṟu

    The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

    There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

    A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

    6. Drive the Red Centre Way

    From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

    Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

    SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
    Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

    7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

    Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa. This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

    Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

    The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
    Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

    8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

    Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen.

    Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

    Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com