The best walks and wildlife experiences on Christmas Island

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Sixty per cent of Christmas Island is national park, which makes it a destination for nature lovers from around the world.

When documentary maker Sir David Attenborough listed the annual mass migration of millions of Christmas Island crabs as ‘one of the top 10 most memorable TV moments from his life’s work’, nature lovers from around the world sat up and took notice. That was in 2008. And it was a big call, coming from one of the world’s foremost naturalists whose life work spans five decades and who has cuddled gorillas, climbed mountains, waded into African swamps and braved Arctic temperatures to capture awe-inspiring footage for his global audience.

 

Attenborough caught the spectacle on camera during filming for The Trials of Life in 1990. Since then, an ever-increasing number of visitors have been drawn to the island to witness the phenomenon of the red crabs marching sideways en masse down to the Indian Ocean. The synchronised migration of some 40 to 50 million red land crabs takes place between October and January, depending on the start of the wet season and levels of moisture in the air. The red crab migration is the main attraction on Christmas Island and the easiest places to watch the phenomenon are at Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach. But the red crabs are only one of 20 terrestrial and intertidal crabs that call the island home; in your day-to-day travels you are also likely to come across various species of hermit crab, ghost crabs, nipper crabs, land crabs and cave crabs as well as the endemic blue crabs that inhabit the wetlands. The birdwatching here is also world class.

 

Christmas Island National Park covers 85 square kilometres (63 per cent) of the island’s land area, and there is a proclamation pending to declare its waters a marine park. Exploring it is easy with our comprehensive guide to Christmas Island’s best walks and wildlife encounters below, but you can also make it even easier to uncover the island’s hidden gems with Travel Exchange Christmas Island, they are experts on how best to experience this tropical jungle paradise. No matter how you choose to see it, you can expect to encounter everything from Christmas Island crabs and rare frigatebirds to nesting turtles and whale sharks in this nature lover’s wonderland.

Best walks on Christmas Island

Hughs Dale

It’s a mostly easy 1.5-kilometre walk across a series of seven water courses down a narrow twisting path through the wetlands to get to Hughs Dale. The streams bubble up from underground caves that flow into the ocean and, over time, the pooling water has hewn a series of gorges and natural terraces into the landscape. This unique wetland ecosystem is listed as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention, and a detour to the Dales is a must when on Christmas Island. In addition to the soundtrack of tinkling streams, this enchanted forest is made more magical with its mossy carpet over the smooth-worn stone staircase, and lichen splotched over the forest floor. Follow the boardwalk through the majestic Tahitian chestnut trees, strangler figs and banyan trees to get to Hughs Dale Waterfall, a destination in its own right.

The unique wetland ecosystem of Hughs Dale.
The unique wetland ecosystem of Hughs Dale.

Best for: All ages, suitable for families

 

Highlight: Cool off with a shower under the natural waterfall.

Anderson Dale

It’s more of a moderate walk to get to Anderson Dale, which starts at the car park near the elevated walkway. The 3.6- kilometre track passes through a pristine swathe of rainforest to arrive at a freshwater stream that has carved a small gorge through the limestone cliffs that wind their way to the ocean.  You will find a series of caves further down the gorge, which is dotted with small boulders, and contains a small cove, and an enormous twisted tangle of tree roots. There is stunning scenery around every bend on this rainforest walk which boasts permanent and perennial streams, springs, and an extraordinary array of animals, birds, and plants.

 

Best for: The gorge can be rough and slippery at times, making it suitable for those with a moderate level of fitness and mobility.

 

Highlight: The Dales is one of the few places on the island with permanent flowing water, providing a significant habitat for the island’s endemic blue crabs.

Martin Point Walk

It’s 4WD access only to Martin Point, which is also located in the Dales area. From the car park at Martin Point, it’s a short walk of 150 metres to a viewing platform that juts out over the edge of the soaring cliffs like an open drawer. Martin Point is a great place to sit down and watch the sun sink over the sea and waves crashing over the park’s western shoreline and fringing reefs. Bring a pair of binoculars to scan the skies for great frigatebirds and the brown Abbott’s booby, which nest near the sea cliffs.  If you’re driving on the road in the dark, take extra care to avoid the island’s giant robber crabs, which are the world’s largest land crustacean. Robber crabs, also called coconut crabs, can grow up to one metre across and weigh up to 4.5 kilograms and live for more than 50 years.

Sunset magic at Martins Point
Sunset magic at Martins Point.

Best for: All ages and abilities


Highlight
: The viewing platform gives you a front-row seat to admire the sunset, all fiery burnt orange hues.

Margaret Knoll Walk

It’s a short and easy walk along a boardwalk and up a series of steps to the spectacular Margaret Knoll lookout, which is one of the most photogenic spots on the island. Situated at the edge of a plunging inland cliff, the lookout offers panoramic views of the island, with its smooth folds covered in a blanket of green that stretches down to the rolling, roiling blue of the ocean some 200 metres below. Margaret Knoll Walk offers one of the best vantage points to spot seabirds, including frigate birds , brown and red-footed boobies and the golden bosun . You may also spot endangered flying foxes in the late afternoon and early evening.

Margarets Walk Boardwalk.
Boardwalks and viewing platforms across the island connect visitors to stunning beaches, wildlife and spectacular views.

Best for: All ages and abilities, nature-lovers and birdwatchers

 

Highlight: The potential to spot sea birds such as the beautiful golden bosun which you will often see spearing into the water to feed on fish and squid.

Perpendicular Wall Walk

Named after the dive site that jacks up at an angle of about 90 degrees, this spectacular Perpendicular Wall Walk winds its way through the terraced forests of Christmas Island along a fairly flat trail for about 10 kilometres. Dwarfed by a range of inland cliffs, the walk is rooved by sky and walled by wilderness that erupts with the magnificent frigatebirds and the iconic colourful red crabs. While Perpendicular Wall is a well-known dive site, the scenery above sea level is every bit as striking. Sign up for a red crab spawning tour with Indian Ocean Experiences to watch the red crabs waterfall over the side of cliffs in their efforts to deliver their trillions of eggs to the sea.

Christmas Island crabs
Sign up for a red crab spawning tour and meet Christmas Island’s icons.

Best for: Fitness enthusiasts

 

Highlight: The panoramic views over the north-west coastline of Christmas Island.

The Blowholes Walk

A 4WD is required to get to the Blowholes, where you can bask in the grandeur of watching Mother Nature vent. The best view is from the platform oriented toward the blowholes that spurt water upwards in the sky through hundreds of holes that pockmark the rocky coastline. The airborne jets of water lend the landscape of black rock pinnacles movement and drama, transforming this orchestrated performance into live theatre with the surround sound of roaring ocean. The viewing platform has seating and is close to the car park, making it the perfect place to sit and relax or enjoy an afternoon picnic.

Christmas Island Blowholes
Marvel at The Blowholes.

Best for: The track to the Blowholes features some of the island’s most thrilling wilderness including a giant strangler fig carpeted in emerald-green moss in the middle of the virgin forest.

 

Highlight: The spectacular performance by Mother Nature of the blowholes blasting water sky-high.

Best wildlife encounters on Christmas Island

Flying Fish Cove

Flying Fish Cove is one of the main hubs on the island and is a gathering spot for snorkelers who like to spot creatures such as octopus and turtles and kids who like to watch the ships being loaded from the cove. People come and go all day here and it’s a soothing place to sit and watch tourists catching dive boats out to sea, children yahooing off the jetty and the rugged assemblage of cranes elbowing the sky at the mooring facility. Watch for spinner dolphins on the horizon, breaking the surface of the translucent seas.

Flying Fish Cove
Flying Fish Cove is one of the main hubs on the island.

Best for: It’s just a short boat ride away to see whale sharks and manta rays.

Highlight: Kicking back on the foreshore at dusk when the sun paints the sky in brushstrokes of pink and purple.

Lily Beach

To snorkel off Lily Beach is to truly descend into an underwater world. Take a few steps off the shore and dive in and then drift with the current amidst jewel-coloured coral and tropical fish. The curve of sand is one of the island’s most accessible with the beach protected from the wind thanks to being bracketed by sea cliffs. Watch fish playing hide and seek in the coral, wade into the shallow aquamarine rock pools or swim into the deeper water to depths tinted unimaginable shades of blue. To get to this secluded beach you must follow a walking trail past blowholes spitting and blasting white water onto the rocks. The biodiversity on show here is breathtaking, from nesting sea birds to a diverse range of reef-dwelling fish.

Lily Beach.
Step into paradise at Lily Beach.

Best for: Keen wildlife observers and fans of megafauna (whale sharks, manta rays and sharks).

 

Highlight: There is an infinity pool hidden near to this oft-deserted beach.

Ethel Beach

From Lily Beach you can stroll along the 1.5-kilometre boardwalk that snakes through a broad furrow between limestone karst formations that look like they’ve been attacked with a blunt axe. Look for nesting brown boobies with their fluffy white chicks close by. Don a mask and snorkel or do some shore diving in the silky shallows here where you will find cities made out of coral as neon-bright as signage you’d expect to see in Sydney’s Kings Cross: from hot pink to purple, yellow, red and blue. Make sure you stare up at the trees off the ruggedly beautiful beach to spot birds nesting here between March and September.

 

Best for: Birdwatchers

 

Highlights: Rare birdlife encounters with the great frigatebird and lesser frigatebird, which nest here during breeding season. The red-footed booby and Eastern reef egret are also known to make cameos here.

Greta Beach

Access to Greta Beach is by 4WD only, followed by a short jaunt down a jungle boardwalk before reaching a set of very steep stairs. Travel to Christmas and Coco Island with long-time local Lisa Preston, of Indian Ocean Experiences , to get a front-row view of Australia’s Galapagos and really immerse yourself in the landscape. From giant coconut crabs, or robber crabs, to dancing boobies, spinner dolphins, screeching frigatebirds and whale sharks, Lisa knows the lay of the land and will connect you to the endemic flora and fauna on the island in a very conscious, and considered way. To see Christmas Island in all its glory, Lisa will guide you up close, on foot and under the water.

Greta Beach
Greta Beach is accessible by 4WD only.

Best for: Spotting nesting turtles, hermit crabs and red crabs during the spawning season. It’s also a popular picnic spot.

 

Highlight: This stunning picturesque beach is shaped by seasonal swells and has a dramatic backdrop of craggy sea cliffs.

West White Beach

Few places exemplify the raw, rugged nature of Christmas Island as this secluded beach which also makes a great backdrop for selfies. Start your experience in a 2WD to get to the top of the track, which wends down to the sand. It’s about an hour’s walk to get to West White Beach, so you will discover a wealth of flora and fauna, including species that are endemic to the island. It’s worth wandering along the track, which varies in difficulty, until you get to the short cliff descent (via rope) that will get you down to a long, secluded stretch of sand, where you will find more photo opportunities against a backdrop of cliffs that appear to have been hacked with a blunt axe.

West White snorkelling
West White coral reefs are teeming with life.

Best for: This stunning beach has coral reefs just offshore and is famed in the diving community for its West White Beach Cave, one of the best places to dive off Christmas Island.

 

Highlight: The coral reefs, which are teeming with life.

Winifred Beach

It’s 4WD access only to the start of the track to Winifred Beach, which requires a moderate level of fitness due to the rough surface of the track and the steep section that stretches down to the beach. It’s a half-hour walk each way or two hours each way if walking from the gate along the 4WD track. While Christmas Island is, in general, a wildlife lover’s dream, it’s also a treat for those who fancy bouts of forest bathing. The leaves of the trees in this rugged coastal terrace rainforest have a deep lustre to them and the birdsong is beautiful.

 

Best for: This signposted trail leads through rugged coastal terrace rainforest, before reaching a cliff face with a steep staircase that leads to a rocky shoreline. It’s suitable for fit, active types only.

 

Highlight: This beach is rugged, the water turquoise and it’s a jaw-droppingly picturesque place to swim. Charge your GoPro: the biggest highlight here might be seeing a whale shark, manta ray or turtle cruise by.

Dolly Beach

You must climb to the start of the Dolly Beach track by 4WD before setting off along the boardwalk, which snakes for 1.8 kilometres through national park where the trees sway, creak and groan in the wind. Set a leisurely pace along the Dolly Beach walking track to arrive at the isolated Dolly Beach, which is an incredibly pretty place to loll. Pack a picnic so you can maximise your time spent dipping in and out of the azure waters complete with a coral reef. But be warned: the cheeky coconut crabs are also known as robber crabs because of their thieving ways, so keep a close eye on your food and drinks.

 Dolly Beach.
The isolated Dolly Beach.

Best for: Families and people of all ages and abilities

 

Highlight: Spot hermit crabs in the rock pools, and watch out for the area’s robber crabs as well as the turtles that nest here all year round. Take a dip in the ‘Dolly Beach Spa’ a natural rock pool where the waves bubble up

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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Why the Central Coast is a foodie mecca

Underpinned by grassroots hospitality and award-winning organic produce, the Central Coast’s gastronomy scene is thriving, with the region quickly becoming one of the best destinations in NSW for epicures.

Revered for its rugged natural splendour and laid-back seaside charm, NSW’s Central Coast has soared in popularity in recent years, becoming a top choice for an affordable slice of weekend escapism for Sydneysiders. Just a short 45-minute drive north of Sydney, it’s the kind of place that, no matter how many times you visit, leaves you with the sense that there’s always more to uncover. But while the ocean pools, bushwalks and beaches have (rightly) taken the spotlight, it’s the Central Coast food offerings which have been quietly simmering in the background.

From fresh-as-it-gets seafood and juicy organic citrus you can pluck yourself, through to regenerative farming and reputable farm-to-fork dining, this coastal gem has become an idyllic foodie mecca. Here are some of the best ways to immerse yourself in grassroots hospitality and gastronomic glory on the NSW Central Coast.

vegetables in a basket at Bells Garden at Bells At Killcare
From picking your own, to farm-to-table, discover the best Central Coast food experiences. (Image: Remy Brand)

Central Coast oyster experiences

From humble grub to opulent delicacy, oysters have ascended into a league of their own. Epicureans are fascinated by them – willing to pay upwards of $35 per dozen (double at some of Sydney’s reputable fine dining restaurants) – and ‘shuck bars’ seem to be popping up at every milestone celebration.

But it’s rare to find places that really draw back the curtain on how they’re farmed and why everyone is mad for these molluscs. The Central Coast , however, is home to several of these venues. With its pristine waters, mild climate and nutrient-rich estuaries, it’s the perfect breeding ground for oysters.

Learn about oyster farming and, importantly, how to shuck them at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours . Nestled on the Hawkesbury River at Mooney Mooney, Sheridan Beaumont and her team offer a hands-on foodie experience where you can feast on dozens of oysters (white tablecloth and all) while wading through the calm waters. You can even bring your own bottle of bubbles to wash them down.

guests in the water for an experience at Sydney Oyster Farm - Central Coast food
Learn tricks of the trade at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours. (Image: Remy Brand)

Elevate your oyster knowledge even further by heading north over the Hawkesbury River Bridge to the Hawkesbury River Oyster Shed . Tour their scenic oyster leases and saltwater paddocks by boat to uncover the distinct characteristics of the Sydney rock oyster and creamy Pacific oyster. They’ve also partnered with Broken Bay Pearl Farm to offer a one-of-a-kind oyster and pearl farming guided tour, showcasing the Central Coast’s very own pearl oyster, the Broken Bay ‘Akoya’. But if you’re simply in the mood to devour a dozen delectable oysters while soaking in the tranquil river views, pull up a chair at the shed. It’s friendly in every sense of the word: pets, families and BYO welcome.

shucking oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
Taste freshly shucked oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm. (Image: James Horan)

Central Coast farms to pick your own fruit

While the Central Coast is known for its breathtaking 40 beaches and 80-kilometre coastline, its lush hinterland is equally impressive – abundant with orchards and agriculturally rich farmland. And when it comes to the simple joy of picking your own fruit, the Central Coast is a ripe playground.

Family-owned Meliora Farm at Peats Ridge is an orchard that blends conventional, biodynamic and organic philosophies. Third-generation farmer Tim Kemp and his wife Elise are dedicated to honouring the family legacy by growing a rich variety of oranges, lemons, limes, mandarins and avocados. In late May, roam the sustainable and nutrient-dense property during ‘Pick Your Own’ weekends.

Eastcoast Beverages is another bountiful citrus orchard boasting over 60 hectares of fruit. From June you can learn about the cultivation of high-quality ingredients – like lemons, limes, grapefruit and oranges – by touring both the farm and factory before setting out and picking your own straight from the source. You can also sample an array of citrus-inspired sweet and savoury treats at their on-site cafe, Bambino’s .

If it’s just juicy oranges you’re after, Cedar Farm in Dooralong is a must-visit. Located about 30 minutes north of Peats Ridge, it features 15 flourishing orchards and over 3000 orange trees – with take-home bags during the season (from July) at low prices. Not bad for a fruity weekend haul.

woman picking oranges at Oranges at Dooralong
Pick your own citrus fruits on the Central Coast. (Image: James Vodicka)

Organic dining

What makes the Central Coast hinterland so special is the unwavering respect the communities have for their cherished backyard. Locally owned and operated farms are all striving for more sustainable practices and methods to both enhance biodiversity and reduce environmental impact, each with a heartwarming food philosophy.

The Food Farm in Wyong Creek believes good food is worth both the work and the wait. Devoted to regenerative farming, first-generation ‘farmily’ Tim Eyes and Hannah Greenshields are recognised for their grass-fed, grass-finished beef and pasture-raised, gold medal-winning chickens. With an open gate policy, The Food Farm encourages visitors to swing by and try some of their slow-grown produce at their small ‘honesty’ farm shop. With no staff, you can pick up a few quality cuts of meat and pasteurised eggs, leaving the owing amount in cash or via eftpos.

Keeping the spirit of generational organic farming alive is Fanelli Organics . Nestled in the Central Coast’s scenic and sleepy Mangrove Mountain, founders Eden and Louise Fanelli own over 45 hectares of plentiful farmland and orchards that produce a huge range of organic fruit and vegetables, like purple Dutch carrots, blood oranges, broccoli and Tuscan kale. A true home-grown operation, Fanelli Organics shares its fresh produce with local restaurants and community markets, including the beloved markets at Like Minds Cafe at Avoca Beach every Wednesday afternoon.

farmers holding fresh produce picked at Fanelli Organics
See where your food comes from at Fanelli Organics.

Paddock-to-plate dining

High-quality ingredients go hand in hand with premium dining, and the Central Coast is home to several paddock-to-plate restaurants that showcase its diverse and rich agriculture. Paired with warm, grassroots hospitality, there are culinary triumphs, new menus and revered chefs constantly popping up, putting the local dining scene firmly on the map.

Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce. Nestled in thick bushland with wraparound verandahs, floral gardens and an idyllic dam, the gourmet homestead and bakehouse is unlike any restaurant on the Central Coast. Here, head chef Reece Collins and his team serve up an impressive breakfast and lunch menu that oozes rustic charm. Pull up a comfy armchair on the expansive deck, listen to birdsong, and tuck into flavoursome dishes like the farmhouse Benedict with honey-cured ham, lemon myrtle hollandaise and Warrigal gremolata, or the hearty beef brisket pie with confit garlic potato purée and rainbow chard.

woman writing in notebook next to a table of food at Saddles, Central Coast food
Taste country-style cooking at Saddles. (Image: Destination NSW)

Delivering a slice of sophistication and luxury to the shores and bushland of Bouddi Peninsula is Bells at Killcare . One of the few boutique resorts on the Central Coast, it’s known for its premium service and five-star suites, as well as its bountiful kitchen gardens that boast an orchard, olive trees, avocado trees, free-range hens and a honey bee hive.

Cameron Cansdell has returned to Bells at Killcare as head chef, bringing his expertise to the casual yet refined menus that feature a raw bar with Oscietra caviar, freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters and Moreton Bay bugs, all served alongside optional matched wines. Sample some of Australia’s best regional wines and standout dishes, like roasted Wollemi duck with grilled leeks, rocket, grilled grapes and 10-year-aged balsamic, or the shareworthy salt-crusted snapper with herb salad and salsa, before roaming the picturesque gardens, wine in hand.

cocktail at Bells At Killcare
Sample incredible wine, cocktails and dishes at Bells At Killcare. (Image: Nikki To)

Plan your next visit to the delicious Central Coast.