The best walks and wildlife experiences on Christmas Island

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Sixty per cent of Christmas Island is national park, which makes it a destination for nature lovers from around the world.

When documentary maker Sir David Attenborough listed the annual mass migration of millions of Christmas Island crabs as ‘one of the top 10 most memorable TV moments from his life’s work’, nature lovers from around the world sat up and took notice. That was in 2008. And it was a big call, coming from one of the world’s foremost naturalists whose life work spans five decades and who has cuddled gorillas, climbed mountains, waded into African swamps and braved Arctic temperatures to capture awe-inspiring footage for his global audience.

 

Attenborough caught the spectacle on camera during filming for The Trials of Life in 1990. Since then, an ever-increasing number of visitors have been drawn to the island to witness the phenomenon of the red crabs marching sideways en masse down to the Indian Ocean. The synchronised migration of some 40 to 50 million red land crabs takes place between October and January, depending on the start of the wet season and levels of moisture in the air. The red crab migration is the main attraction on Christmas Island and the easiest places to watch the phenomenon are at Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach. But the red crabs are only one of 20 terrestrial and intertidal crabs that call the island home; in your day-to-day travels you are also likely to come across various species of hermit crab, ghost crabs, nipper crabs, land crabs and cave crabs as well as the endemic blue crabs that inhabit the wetlands. The birdwatching here is also world class.

 

Christmas Island National Park covers 85 square kilometres (63 per cent) of the island’s land area, and there is a proclamation pending to declare its waters a marine park. Exploring it is easy with our comprehensive guide to Christmas Island’s best walks and wildlife encounters below, but you can also make it even easier to uncover the island’s hidden gems with Travel Exchange Christmas Island, they are experts on how best to experience this tropical jungle paradise. No matter how you choose to see it, you can expect to encounter everything from Christmas Island crabs and rare frigatebirds to nesting turtles and whale sharks in this nature lover’s wonderland.

Best walks on Christmas Island

Hughs Dale

It’s a mostly easy 1.5-kilometre walk across a series of seven water courses down a narrow twisting path through the wetlands to get to Hughs Dale. The streams bubble up from underground caves that flow into the ocean and, over time, the pooling water has hewn a series of gorges and natural terraces into the landscape. This unique wetland ecosystem is listed as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention, and a detour to the Dales is a must when on Christmas Island. In addition to the soundtrack of tinkling streams, this enchanted forest is made more magical with its mossy carpet over the smooth-worn stone staircase, and lichen splotched over the forest floor. Follow the boardwalk through the majestic Tahitian chestnut trees, strangler figs and banyan trees to get to Hughs Dale Waterfall, a destination in its own right.

The unique wetland ecosystem of Hughs Dale.
The unique wetland ecosystem of Hughs Dale.

Best for: All ages, suitable for families

 

Highlight: Cool off with a shower under the natural waterfall.

Anderson Dale

It’s more of a moderate walk to get to Anderson Dale, which starts at the car park near the elevated walkway. The 3.6- kilometre track passes through a pristine swathe of rainforest to arrive at a freshwater stream that has carved a small gorge through the limestone cliffs that wind their way to the ocean.  You will find a series of caves further down the gorge, which is dotted with small boulders, and contains a small cove, and an enormous twisted tangle of tree roots. There is stunning scenery around every bend on this rainforest walk which boasts permanent and perennial streams, springs, and an extraordinary array of animals, birds, and plants.

 

Best for: The gorge can be rough and slippery at times, making it suitable for those with a moderate level of fitness and mobility.

 

Highlight: The Dales is one of the few places on the island with permanent flowing water, providing a significant habitat for the island’s endemic blue crabs.

Martin Point Walk

It’s 4WD access only to Martin Point, which is also located in the Dales area. From the car park at Martin Point, it’s a short walk of 150 metres to a viewing platform that juts out over the edge of the soaring cliffs like an open drawer. Martin Point is a great place to sit down and watch the sun sink over the sea and waves crashing over the park’s western shoreline and fringing reefs. Bring a pair of binoculars to scan the skies for great frigatebirds and the brown Abbott’s booby, which nest near the sea cliffs.  If you’re driving on the road in the dark, take extra care to avoid the island’s giant robber crabs, which are the world’s largest land crustacean. Robber crabs, also called coconut crabs, can grow up to one metre across and weigh up to 4.5 kilograms and live for more than 50 years.

Sunset magic at Martins Point
Sunset magic at Martins Point.

Best for: All ages and abilities


Highlight
: The viewing platform gives you a front-row seat to admire the sunset, all fiery burnt orange hues.

Margaret Knoll Walk

It’s a short and easy walk along a boardwalk and up a series of steps to the spectacular Margaret Knoll lookout, which is one of the most photogenic spots on the island. Situated at the edge of a plunging inland cliff, the lookout offers panoramic views of the island, with its smooth folds covered in a blanket of green that stretches down to the rolling, roiling blue of the ocean some 200 metres below. Margaret Knoll Walk offers one of the best vantage points to spot seabirds, including frigate birds , brown and red-footed boobies and the golden bosun . You may also spot endangered flying foxes in the late afternoon and early evening.

Margarets Walk Boardwalk.
Boardwalks and viewing platforms across the island connect visitors to stunning beaches, wildlife and spectacular views.

Best for: All ages and abilities, nature-lovers and birdwatchers

 

Highlight: The potential to spot sea birds such as the beautiful golden bosun which you will often see spearing into the water to feed on fish and squid.

Perpendicular Wall Walk

Named after the dive site that jacks up at an angle of about 90 degrees, this spectacular Perpendicular Wall Walk winds its way through the terraced forests of Christmas Island along a fairly flat trail for about 10 kilometres. Dwarfed by a range of inland cliffs, the walk is rooved by sky and walled by wilderness that erupts with the magnificent frigatebirds and the iconic colourful red crabs. While Perpendicular Wall is a well-known dive site, the scenery above sea level is every bit as striking. Sign up for a red crab spawning tour with Indian Ocean Experiences to watch the red crabs waterfall over the side of cliffs in their efforts to deliver their trillions of eggs to the sea.

Christmas Island crabs
Sign up for a red crab spawning tour and meet Christmas Island’s icons.

Best for: Fitness enthusiasts

 

Highlight: The panoramic views over the north-west coastline of Christmas Island.

The Blowholes Walk

A 4WD is required to get to the Blowholes, where you can bask in the grandeur of watching Mother Nature vent. The best view is from the platform oriented toward the blowholes that spurt water upwards in the sky through hundreds of holes that pockmark the rocky coastline. The airborne jets of water lend the landscape of black rock pinnacles movement and drama, transforming this orchestrated performance into live theatre with the surround sound of roaring ocean. The viewing platform has seating and is close to the car park, making it the perfect place to sit and relax or enjoy an afternoon picnic.

Christmas Island Blowholes
Marvel at The Blowholes.

Best for: The track to the Blowholes features some of the island’s most thrilling wilderness including a giant strangler fig carpeted in emerald-green moss in the middle of the virgin forest.

 

Highlight: The spectacular performance by Mother Nature of the blowholes blasting water sky-high.

Best wildlife encounters on Christmas Island

Flying Fish Cove

Flying Fish Cove is one of the main hubs on the island and is a gathering spot for snorkelers who like to spot creatures such as octopus and turtles and kids who like to watch the ships being loaded from the cove. People come and go all day here and it’s a soothing place to sit and watch tourists catching dive boats out to sea, children yahooing off the jetty and the rugged assemblage of cranes elbowing the sky at the mooring facility. Watch for spinner dolphins on the horizon, breaking the surface of the translucent seas.

Flying Fish Cove
Flying Fish Cove is one of the main hubs on the island.

Best for: It’s just a short boat ride away to see whale sharks and manta rays.

Highlight: Kicking back on the foreshore at dusk when the sun paints the sky in brushstrokes of pink and purple.

Lily Beach

To snorkel off Lily Beach is to truly descend into an underwater world. Take a few steps off the shore and dive in and then drift with the current amidst jewel-coloured coral and tropical fish. The curve of sand is one of the island’s most accessible with the beach protected from the wind thanks to being bracketed by sea cliffs. Watch fish playing hide and seek in the coral, wade into the shallow aquamarine rock pools or swim into the deeper water to depths tinted unimaginable shades of blue. To get to this secluded beach you must follow a walking trail past blowholes spitting and blasting white water onto the rocks. The biodiversity on show here is breathtaking, from nesting sea birds to a diverse range of reef-dwelling fish.

Lily Beach.
Step into paradise at Lily Beach.

Best for: Keen wildlife observers and fans of megafauna (whale sharks, manta rays and sharks).

 

Highlight: There is an infinity pool hidden near to this oft-deserted beach.

Ethel Beach

From Lily Beach you can stroll along the 1.5-kilometre boardwalk that snakes through a broad furrow between limestone karst formations that look like they’ve been attacked with a blunt axe. Look for nesting brown boobies with their fluffy white chicks close by. Don a mask and snorkel or do some shore diving in the silky shallows here where you will find cities made out of coral as neon-bright as signage you’d expect to see in Sydney’s Kings Cross: from hot pink to purple, yellow, red and blue. Make sure you stare up at the trees off the ruggedly beautiful beach to spot birds nesting here between March and September.

 

Best for: Birdwatchers

 

Highlights: Rare birdlife encounters with the great frigatebird and lesser frigatebird, which nest here during breeding season. The red-footed booby and Eastern reef egret are also known to make cameos here.

Greta Beach

Access to Greta Beach is by 4WD only, followed by a short jaunt down a jungle boardwalk before reaching a set of very steep stairs. Travel to Christmas and Coco Island with long-time local Lisa Preston, of Indian Ocean Experiences , to get a front-row view of Australia’s Galapagos and really immerse yourself in the landscape. From giant coconut crabs, or robber crabs, to dancing boobies, spinner dolphins, screeching frigatebirds and whale sharks, Lisa knows the lay of the land and will connect you to the endemic flora and fauna on the island in a very conscious, and considered way. To see Christmas Island in all its glory, Lisa will guide you up close, on foot and under the water.

Greta Beach
Greta Beach is accessible by 4WD only.

Best for: Spotting nesting turtles, hermit crabs and red crabs during the spawning season. It’s also a popular picnic spot.

 

Highlight: This stunning picturesque beach is shaped by seasonal swells and has a dramatic backdrop of craggy sea cliffs.

West White Beach

Few places exemplify the raw, rugged nature of Christmas Island as this secluded beach which also makes a great backdrop for selfies. Start your experience in a 2WD to get to the top of the track, which wends down to the sand. It’s about an hour’s walk to get to West White Beach, so you will discover a wealth of flora and fauna, including species that are endemic to the island. It’s worth wandering along the track, which varies in difficulty, until you get to the short cliff descent (via rope) that will get you down to a long, secluded stretch of sand, where you will find more photo opportunities against a backdrop of cliffs that appear to have been hacked with a blunt axe.

West White snorkelling
West White coral reefs are teeming with life.

Best for: This stunning beach has coral reefs just offshore and is famed in the diving community for its West White Beach Cave, one of the best places to dive off Christmas Island.

 

Highlight: The coral reefs, which are teeming with life.

Winifred Beach

It’s 4WD access only to the start of the track to Winifred Beach, which requires a moderate level of fitness due to the rough surface of the track and the steep section that stretches down to the beach. It’s a half-hour walk each way or two hours each way if walking from the gate along the 4WD track. While Christmas Island is, in general, a wildlife lover’s dream, it’s also a treat for those who fancy bouts of forest bathing. The leaves of the trees in this rugged coastal terrace rainforest have a deep lustre to them and the birdsong is beautiful.

 

Best for: This signposted trail leads through rugged coastal terrace rainforest, before reaching a cliff face with a steep staircase that leads to a rocky shoreline. It’s suitable for fit, active types only.

 

Highlight: This beach is rugged, the water turquoise and it’s a jaw-droppingly picturesque place to swim. Charge your GoPro: the biggest highlight here might be seeing a whale shark, manta ray or turtle cruise by.

Dolly Beach

You must climb to the start of the Dolly Beach track by 4WD before setting off along the boardwalk, which snakes for 1.8 kilometres through national park where the trees sway, creak and groan in the wind. Set a leisurely pace along the Dolly Beach walking track to arrive at the isolated Dolly Beach, which is an incredibly pretty place to loll. Pack a picnic so you can maximise your time spent dipping in and out of the azure waters complete with a coral reef. But be warned: the cheeky coconut crabs are also known as robber crabs because of their thieving ways, so keep a close eye on your food and drinks.

 Dolly Beach.
The isolated Dolly Beach.

Best for: Families and people of all ages and abilities

 

Highlight: Spot hermit crabs in the rock pools, and watch out for the area’s robber crabs as well as the turtles that nest here all year round. Take a dip in the ‘Dolly Beach Spa’ a natural rock pool where the waves bubble up

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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8 Red Centre locations to explore after seeing the new movie, Kangaroo

Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.

In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo , the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory ’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.

“By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.

still from kangarro film
See Kangaroo, then visit the real-life filming locations.

And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.

“There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”

If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.

1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe

artist at Many Hands Art Centre
Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)

The red and dusty streets of the film’s fictional town of Silvergum were filmed on the outskirts of Alice Springs. And, while the art gallery featured in the film is fictional, Alice Springs is a hub of creativity. See the work of local artists at the Araluen Art Centre , Yubu Napa Art Gallery , Iltja Ntjarra (Many Hands) Art Centre and the famous Tjanpi Desert Weavers .

2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre

The Kangaroo Sanctuary Alice Springs, the inspiration for the Kangaroo move
Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)

Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.

“The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”

To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.

3. Ormiston Gorge

woman walking along the edge of Ormiston Gorge near alice springs
Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)

The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.

Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).

Ormiston Gorge , a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.

4. Standley Chasm

woman walking through Standley Chasm near alice springs
Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)

The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.

Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.

5. Simpsons Gap

three people walking on path through simpsons gap near alice springs
Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)

Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.

Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.

6. Ellery Creek Big Hole

aerial of Ellery Creek Big Hole near alice springs
Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)

When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata : tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.

Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.

“It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”

7. Larapinta Drive

aerial of Larapinta Drive into alice springs
Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)

There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.

Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.

8. Todd River

competitors in Henley on Todd Regatta, alice springs
Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)

Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.

When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.

See Kangaroo in cinemas now, and start planning your NT getaway at northernterritory.com.