Why Geelong and the Bellarine is the ultimate foodie destination

Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
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From handcrafted cultured butter to freshly cooked mussels, this part of Victoria is fast becoming known as a farm-to-table paradise.

Whether you’re sipping a latte overlooking the calm Corio Bay, enjoying an overloaded cheese platter with a glass of pinot at a winery or devouring a freshly cooked Portarlington mussel, Geelong and the Bellarine region will ignite the foodie within you.

To experience the best this area offers, work up an appetite and explore the perfectly curated Bellarine Taste Trail. The rich volcanic soil and cool sea breezes have fostered dynamic farmlands, plus the pace of life and strong farm-to-table ethos, have attracted some of the most talented makers and growers from around the country.

Food and craft beer spread at FarmDog Brewing
Food, wine, beer and more are all locally crafted here. (Image: FarmDog Brewing)

Savour a local wine

Known for impressive vineyards with even more impressive bay views, the wineries of this region produce world-respected pinot, shiraz and chardonnay. To say each winery has its own personality is an understatement. There’s the grand and stately Scotchmans Hill, the architecturally led Jack Rabbit Vineyard and the laidback but confident Lethbridge at Hat Rock. Nearby there’s also a little nostalgia on offer at Terindah Estate, where you can dine in Peter’s Odyssey Tram Bar, a fully refurbished W-class tram. Yes Bar is also the perfect place for a tipple.

For wine tasting with a difference, head to the family-owned Bellarine Estate and dive into the ‘trinity of Texas BBQ’ – namely Angus brisket, free-range pork ribs and house-made sausage, alongside house-made rubs. Or enjoy the fruits of owner Sam Murray’s labour at Oneday Estate, a winery he literally built by hand from salvaged material. It’s a functional work of art, as is Oneday wine, crafted by highly awarded winemaker Nyall Condon.

waiter carrying food at the Scotchmans Hill
Relish a scrumptious meal and wine at Scotchmans Hill. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Relax with a cider, gin or beer

This part of Victoria isn’t just known for its award-winning viniculture; it’s also home to a tribe of brewhouses and distilleries that are rapidly carving a name for themselves. Fun-loving Bellarine Distillery serves its multi-layered gin (named after much-loved pet dogs) and rich single malt whisky, both served up in a renovated farm shed called The Whiskery. A short drive away, FarmDog Brewing continues the canine theme with its small-batch FarmDog gins and craft beer, best enjoyed with local salmon pate in the cosy brewery. Or grab a table at the busy Queenscliff Brewhouse and try one of the local craft beers on tap, including their own Prickly Moses beer, before moving on to one of their six house-made gins.

Cider aficionados will love Flying Brick Cider Co, which crafts its tasty drinks from fresh, crispy Victorian apples and Packham pears with no added sugars, colours or concentrates.

bartender making a cocktail with handcrafted gin at Bellarine Distillery
Try a handcrafted cocktail at Bellarine Distillery.

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Enjoy farm-to-table dining

With so many makers and growers throughout Geelong and the Bellarine, it’s difficult to taste all the best seasonal produce – unless you book a seat on The Q Train. This premier rail journey departs from the small township of Drysdale and heads to Queenscliff, and during the scenic three-hour return trip you’ll enjoy a five-course meal featuring local produce from Geelong, the Bellarine and the Otways.

guests enjoying a meal aboard the qtrain
Book a seat on The Q Train. (Image: Tourism Australia/ QTrain)

The famous Portarlington mussels might be served to your table steaming hot as you glide along; if not, head to the very tip of the peninsula and eat them freshly cooked with luxurious Portarlington Mussel Tours. The award-winning experience includes visiting a working mussel farm, cooking demonstrations and tastings. The company has also recently added Angasi oysters and scallops to its offering, with their much-anticipated Deluxe Seafood Tour launching soon.

For budding chefs who have been watching The Bear, Harvest Experience in Geelong takes you inside a professional kitchen where you’ll learn to cook fresh produce from its kitchen garden. If that sounds a little too labour intensive, you can simply sit back and relax at Piknik in Swan Bay; this welcoming cafe in a converted service station serves up the best local produce, with house-made ice cream, baked goods and preserves.

Cooked Mussels by the sea by Portarlington Mussel Tours
Try different dishes made with fresh mussels. (Image: Portarlington Mussel Tours)

Shop for handcrafted pantry fillers

After eating your way through this region, you’ll be looking to take some of the produce home to your own kitchen. Grab your sustainable shopping bag and look out for notable artisan products.

For extra virgin olive and citrus oils, visit Oakdene Vineyards Cellar Door to taste Lighthouse Olive Oil, or stock up on olives and cold-pressed olive oil at Manzanillo Olive Grove, a biodynamic farm that’s home to over 4500 trees and seven varieties of the fruit.

No visit to Geelong and the Bellarine is complete without a crusty sourdough loaf, pastries and crumbly croissants (that take five days to make) from the ever-popular Ket Baker. Pair the sourdough with handcrafted cultured butter from Lard Ass butter – the only butter factory on the Bellarine – and smoked salmon pate, smoked New Zealand Ōra King salmon or smoked salt from Bellarine Smokehouse.

a table spread with lardass butter
Take home some handcrafted butter. (Image: LardAss Butter)

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Lucy Cousins
Lucy is an experienced travel and lifestyle writer who loves exploring Australia and further afield any chance she gets. Whether it's on the water, in the air, by car or on foot, she’s always planning her next new adventure with her family and rescue dog, Stella.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley
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    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.