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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

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Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)

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Kellie Floyd
Kellie Floyd is a freelance writer with a deep curiosity for cultures and lands. She feels right at home in her hiking boots, exploring the great outdoors with her kids and firmly believes in the educational power of travel. Kellie loves to pen articles about her family and solo adventures, as well as sustainable travel. At home, you’ll find her snuggled up with a coffee in hand, reading about places she has yet to visit but knows she will someday.
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Victoria’s most memorable guided tours to book now

    Lara Picone Lara Picone
    Get around the natural beauty and bounty of regional Victoria on a guided tour that reveals extraordinary moments from coast to country.

    Walk the Great Ocean Road

    forest walk along the Great Ocean Road
    Swap your car for walking shoes on the Great Ocean Road.

    The Australian Walking Co’s immersive three-day, lodge-based walk is absolute bucket-list fodder. The easy-going, guided coastal hike is marked by epic scenery and end-of-day luxury. You’ll have no need for heavy packs or tents, instead expect fresh-caught crayfish, post-walk canapés and local wines. Each day explores the drama of this ocean-facing landscape with an approachable three-hour-ish walk, leaving plenty of time to unwind at the lodge.

    Swim with seals and dolphins at Port Phillip Heads

    dolphins swimming in Port Phillip Head Marine Park
    Swim with dolphins in Port Phillip Head Marine Park.

    Dive into Popes Eye, within Port Phillip Heads Marine National Park, for this wild swimming experience with mankind’s BFFs of the sea. On the See All Dolphin Swims 3.5-hour experience, departing from Queenscliff, you’ll begin in shallow, calm waters before venturing off to Chinaman’s Hat and beyond to meet seals and dolphins in their own habitat. All gear is provided and all ages are welcome.

    Get your ghost on in the Grampians

    For those with a penchant for the paranormal, get ready for goosebumps when you embark on the Lantern Tours J Ward Paranormal Investigation excursion that takes place under the moonlight in the west wing of Aradale Lunatic Asylum. As you keep a lookout for supernatural activity, you’ll enjoy tales of the criminally insane inmates that will make the hairs on your neck stand to attention.

    Paddle along the mighty Murray

    a woman on a stand-up paddle board along the Murray
    Glide along the scenic Murray on a stand-up paddleboard.

    Swoosh softly through the silky waters of the mighty Murray on a stand-up paddle board with Echuca Moama Stand Up Paddle. This gentle downstream sojourn meanders for one-and-a-half hours covering 4.5 kilometres of the river, taking in the beauty on the banks and the vibrant birdlife.

    From Echuca Moama slip under the Moama Bridge and glide beside its iconic paddlesteamers and the historic port.

    Sip and cycle in the Yarra Valley

    cyclists exploring Yarra Valley
    Cycle around Yarra Valley wine country.

    Wine and wheels make a great pairing on the Tour De Vines six-hour Yarra Valley tour that weaves through vine-threaded roads. It’s a relaxed pace along 20 kilometres of the Warburton Rail Trail as you spot native birds and stop in at local vineyards and produce stores. You’ll pull in at a local winery for a tasting and enjoy lunch before hitting up a couple of cellar doors. Depending on your pedal power, there may be time to sneak in a visit to a chocolate or cheese factory.

    Dig for gold in Bendigo

    Think you have what it takes to unearth a gilded treasure? Try your hand at prospecting and learn the art of gold-digging (in the geological sense) on the two-hour Gold Nugget Hunter tour in the Loddon Valley. On the tour, mine the wisdom of locals Shane and Jackie – who have honed their hobby of gold-detecting into an art – to learn how to read the land and use a gold detector. You may even go home with a nugget of your own.

    Cruise around Wilsons Promontory

    the Skull Rock in Wilsons Prom
    Cruise around Skull Rock in Wilsons Prom. (Image: Connor Vaughan)

    It’s a thrill to drive directly from the sand into the waves aboard the Wanderer Adventures’ bright-yellow amphibious boat. On this 2.5-hour tour, you’ll skip along the water to take in Wilsons Prom’s top highlights, such as the imposing Skull Rock, The Glennies, Anderson Islets and Anser Island. Spot seals, penguins and seabirds as you absorb the tranquillity of this stunning environment.

    Walk with llamas in the Macedon Ranges

    a llama in the Macedon Ranges
    Make friends with a llama in the Macedon Ranges.

    If you’ve always felt an affinity for long-lashed camelids, then bonding with a llama on a leisurely walk might just be the thing for you. Opt for either a three-hour, five-kilometre hike or a longer 12-kilometre trek along the Domino Rail Trail paired with a gentle, hooved friend. Things kick off with a llama orientation, where you’ll learn how to lead and look out for your new mate before you hit the track. It’s a lovely way to explore the beauty of the region with a sensitive and curious companion by your side.

    Go underground in the Grampians

    a subterranean tour of Seppelt Wines
    Take a subterranean tour of Seppelt Wines. (Image: Ben Savage/We Are Explorers)

    Oenophiles and cave-lovers alike will enjoy going underground at Seppelt’s ‘Drives’. The largest underground cellar in Australia, The Drives were dug by local goldminers in 1868 and meander for three-kilometres – keeping wine treasures at a temperate 16-degrees year-round. A 50-minute tour through the heritage-listed granite tunnels happily conclude with a tasting of the label’s celebrated sparkling wines.

    Discover island life in the Mornington Peninsula

    a guided tour of French Island
    Discover the Mornington Peninsula’s flora and fauna on a guided tour of French Island.

    Eject from the mainland on a catamaran bound for the wildlife haven of French Island with Naturaliste Tours. Once you disembark from the boat, you’ll hop into a 4WD to explore the pristine flora and fauna, from salt marshes to vast Fairhaven Beach.

    Look out for echidnas and koalas and enjoy short walks and historic sites on this half-day tour.

    seals in Wilsons Prom
    The southernmost tip is a haven for wildlife. (Image: CMcConville)