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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

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Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)

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Kellie Floyd
Kellie Floyd is a freelance writer with a deep curiosity for cultures and lands. She feels right at home in her hiking boots, exploring the great outdoors with her kids and firmly believes in the educational power of travel. Kellie loves to pen articles about her family and solo adventures, as well as sustainable travel. At home, you’ll find her snuggled up with a coffee in hand, reading about places she has yet to visit but knows she will someday.
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8 reasons locals will tell you the Mornington Peninsula is incredible in winter

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    The Mornington Peninsula might be synonymous with summer, but winter offers equally compelling reasons to visit.

    Come winter, the Mornington Peninsula transforms into a relaxing and rejuvenating escape. Think misty trails and dramatic ocean views along the rugged coastline, drinking and dining by crackling firesides, fewer crowds and a more small-town feel – the perfect ingredients for a slow and restorative weekend.

    If you want a truly local winter experience, here’s where you need to go.

    1. Sample spirits at local distilleries

    JimmyRum distillery on the mornington peninsula
    Sample small-batch rums and cane spirits at JimmyRum. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    No matter your tipple, you’re bound to find a Peninsula distillery to suit. Chief’s Son is beloved by locals and visitors alike for its award-winning range of single malt whiskies. Make sure to try the Black Forge – a heady combination of whisky and coffee.

    JimmyRum is the Mornington Peninsula’s first and only craft rum distillery. Enjoy a tasting to sample small-batch rums and cane spirits, or book a table to feast on generous share plates and creative cocktails.

    Bass & Flinders is another must-visit, and something of a local icon. It was the Peninsula’s first distillery and remains a favourite for craft gins, brandies and fruity liqueurs. Pick up a bottle (or two) to take home and toast your winter getaway.

    2. Warm up in the hot springs

    man in pool at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa
    Dive into Alba Thermal Springs & Spa.

    Locals know winter is the best time to visit the famous hot springs. With the air cool and crisp and the springs reaching temperatures up to 43 degrees, the experience is akin to a warm embrace.

    If you’re travelling with kids or want something more laid-back, Peninsula Hot Springs is your best bet. Spanning 42 acres and with an organic vibe, the complex has hillside pools, saunas, bath houses and family-friendly spaces perfect for all ages.

    Alba Thermal Springs & Spa is slightly more luxe, with 25 thermal pools amid architectural surrounds. The on-site restaurant, Thyme, is a highlight, featuring seasonal lunch dishes, high teas and picnics, and a beautifully designed interior.

    3. Coastal walks feel more dramatic

    Millionaire's Walk in sorrento
    Take in gorgeous seaside scenery on Millionaire’s Walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The Peninsula is situated between Port Phillip Bay and the wide expanse of the Southern Ocean, giving it front-row access to stunning sea vistas. In winter, and especially on rainy days, the outlook is incredibly dramatic, with waves crashing against the clifftops and a steely hue. The trails hugging the ocean are also much quieter and mostly filled with locals.

    Make sure to drop by Cape Schanck Lighthouse on your coastal walk – the lighthouse was built in 1859, making it one of Victoria’s oldest. Climb the stone stairs all the way to the top and take in panoramic, windswept views.

    Millionaire’s Walk in Sorrento is another local favourite. This easy 1.5-kilometre coastal trail takes you past gorgeous seaside scenery and some of the grand homes the town is famous for.

    4. Sip on world-class pinot noir

    green olive winery at red hill on the mornington peninsula
    Stop by Red Hill’s cellar doors, like Green Olive. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    If you’re a fan of the light-bodied and elegant red, your winter escape should include a stop at one of the Peninsula’s many cellar doors.

    The hinterlands around the township of Red Hill are particularly renowned for pinot noir (and chardonnay) thanks to their cool maritime climate and red clay soils. There are more than 50 boutique cellar doors to choose from, where you can sample a selection or do as the locals do: take a bottle back to your accommodation to savour by the fireside.

    5. See misty rolling hills from above

    Arthurs Seat Eagle on mornington peninsula
    Get a bird’s-eye view on Arthurs Seat Eagle. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Peninsula winters bring with them a thick mist and fog, which make for atmospheric and dreamlike scenery. Shroud yourself in the clouds with a gondola ride at Arthurs Seat Eagle. The summit is 305 metres high, giving you a genuine bird’s-eye view of the entire Peninsula region and Port Phillip Bay in their moody and misty glory.

    6. Dine beside a roaring fire

    table full of dishes at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store
    Enjoy food and wine beside a roaring fireplace at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The Peninsula is an essential part of Melbourne’s “food bowl”, with 70 per cent of the region a designated Green Wedge zone. It’s little surprise, then, that there are so many opportunities to try its fresh produce. Visit farm gates like Torello Farm, Hawkes Farm and Tully’s Corner to sample the region’s winter harvest: apples, root vegetables, mushrooms and truffles.

    Nothing beats a fireside feast in winter, and several local dining venues offer exactly that. Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill is a two-hatted restaurant with a roaring fire, Crittenden Estate does seasonal dishes and estate wines amid a cosy indoor space, and Rare Hare Wine & Food Store has a double-sided fireplace that anchors the warm and welcoming dining room.

    If the sun is out, enjoy a picnic amid the sprawling grounds of Montalto Winery. You’ll kick off with a tasting before heading outdoors to a covered picnic table, where you’ll feast on starters, mains, desserts and more wine.

    7. Go whale watching at Cape Schanck

    whales in victoria australia
    Look for whales between May and October. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Beyond the spectacular lighthouse views, Cape Schanck is also an excellent place to watch whales migrating through the Bass Strait. Between May and October each year, particularly during June and July, Southern Right and Humpback whales make their way past the area, and can sometimes be spotted just 150 metres from the shoreline. Many locals watch for free from the cape’s boardwalks and viewing platforms, but you can also book a boat tour.

    8. Explore Point Nepean National Park

    Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip
    Follow over 80 walking and cycling tracks. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip, just outside Portsea. Set right beside the clifftops, it’s wild, windswept and defined by its rugged terrain.

    Locals love the national park for its more than 80 walking and cycling tracks, and you’ll often spot them getting a winter workout in. But if you’ve never been here, make sure to discover its rich history.

    It forms part of an Indigenous cultural landscape on the lands of the Bunurong People, and holds significance as a site for early settlement and military operations. Numerous historical buildings – including the heritage-listed Quarantine Station – still stand today.

    Start planning the ultimate winter escape at visitmorningtonpeninsula.org.