Victoria’s dream coastal road trip: Melbourne to Lakes Entrance

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Heading to Mallacoota? Take a road trip detour to discover these special spots along the way.

Golden sandy beaches that stretch forever, ferny forests, fabulous food, amazing wildlife and some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in the country are all par for the course on this epic coastal road trip between Melbourne and Mallacoota. As far as road trips go, they don’t get any better than this.

Wilsons Promontory (226km from Melbourne)

There are a hundred good reasons why Wilsons Promontory (aka The Prom) is Victoria’s favourite national park– family-friendly camping and cosy cabins, wild walks, granite peaks, secluded beaches, wildflowers, wombats and whales leap to mind– but for sheer wow factor, take the 5.5-hour Wilsons Promontory Ultimate Day Cruise with Wanderer Adventures .

Wilsons Promontory, Coastal Views, VIC, Australia
The Prom is Victoria’s favourite national park.

A highlight is a visit to Skull Rock (officially it’s called Cleft Island, but it’s spookily shaped like a 60-metre-high bird’s skull and looks like it’s come straight out of a James Bond movie). Wildly inaccessible, it’s been explored by fewer people (nine) than have walked on the moon (12). Oh, and expect to see plenty of birds and, if you’re lucky, a whale or two along the way.

Skull Rock, Wilsons Promontory, VIC, Australia
A highlight is a visit to the spookily shaped Skull Rock.

On the way:

Stop for a spot of shopping in the galleries and art studios of Fish Creek . The art deco pub does great lunches – you can’t miss it, there’s a giant mullet on the roof.

Stay:

Tidal River Wilderness Retreat

Wilsons Promontory, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Exploring ‘The Prom’ is always a good idea.

Tinamba (200km from the Prom)

Tina-where? This tiny Central Gippsland dairy town of 500 or so is worth the detour because it’s home to one of Gippsland’s best dining destinations. Tinamba Hotel has won a swag of awards including Pub of the Year, Best Regional Restaurant and a coveted Chef Hat in the 2022 Australian Good Food Guide Awards. Almost everything on the menu is locally grown, caught or made, including the wine: think Gippsland jersey ricotta and beef, blue-eye trevalla, Snowy River black garlic and Windsong Farm honey. It’s open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through to Saturday, and Sunday lunch – book ahead.

Tinamba Hotel Exterior, VIC, Australia
The Tinamba Hotel has been recognized with multiple awards.

On the way:

Stretch your legs on the magical Tarra Valley Rainforest Walk though ferny glens and glades to Cyathea Falls in Tarra Bulga National Park.

Stay:

The Ret reat at Mewburn Park Homestead , Maffra

Tinamba Hotel Pink Lemonade Macaron, VIC, Australia
Foodies absolutely need to try the food at Tinamba Hotel.

Paynesville (80km from Tinamba)

Time to face the water. Perfectly positioned in the middle of one of the largest expanses of inland waterways in the country, pretty Paynesville is the type of place you’ll never want to leave, so think about spending an extra day or two. Hop aboard the free ferry to Raymond Island and wander through the koala colony – sightings are pretty much guaranteed. Take a long walk on Ninety Mile Beach (maybe not the whole way), then treat yourself to a long lunch at Sardine Dining, where Mark Briggs, the former head chef of Vue de monde, transforms the catch of the day into something truly memorable.

Captains Cove, Paynesville, Gippsland, VIC
You will never want to leave Paynesville.

On the way:

You’re on Gunaikurnai land, so visit Krowathunkoolong Keeping Place in Bairnsdale to uncover 30,000 years of culture.

Stay:

Captains Cove Waterfront Apartments , Paynesville

Sardine Dining, Paynesville, VIC, Australia
Treat yourself to a long lunch at Sardine Dining.

Metung (44km from Paynesville)

As the crow flies (or boat glides) it’s fewer than a dozen kilometres across the lake to Metung . By road it’s about 40 minutes, a lovely drive beside the Tambo River. Sleepy and laid-back, the good life here is all about strolling on boardwalks, maybe dropping a fishing line from a jetty, and definitely enjoying wraparound water views from one of the many restaurants in town – those at the Metung Hotel overlooking Bancroft Bay are hard to beat. It won’t be long before the opening of Metung Hot Springs will make getting wet in winter something to really look forward to.

Sunset View of Metung Jetties, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Drop a fishing line from a jetty in Metung.

On the way:

Take the long way there and head up into the hills to Bruthen , where you’ll find a brewery, wineries, galleries, antique shops and a cracker of a rail trail.

Stay:

Lakeview Retreat , Metung

Soaking in tubs, Metung Hot Springs, Gippsland, VIC
Soak in the views at the Metung Hot Springs, Gippsland. (Image: Rikki-Jo Molinaro)

Lakes Entrance (20km from Metung)

If you’ve been doing this road trip right you’ll be well into the rhythm of things by now, and 20 kilometres in a day is more than enough when the scenery is this good. Lakes Entrance might be best known for its watery wonders – it’s the largest lake system in the southern hemisphere – but it’s even better in cooler weather, when you can curl up beside a roaring fireplace in a cosy retreat or restaurant with a glass of something local, admiring the water views from the inside out. Try a local craft beer at The Slipway before tucking into some very special seafood at Sodafish .

Octopus, Sodafish, Lakes Entrance, VIC
Fresh seafood on the balcony at Sodafish, Lakes Entrance.

On the way:

If you’re road tripping in winter, take a detour west along the Great Alpine Road . From surfing Gippsland to skiing Mt Hotham in a day, it doesn’t get much cooler than that.

Stay:

Lakes Entrance Waverley House Cottages

Aerial view, Lakes Entrance, Australia
See Lakes Entrance from above.

Marlo (72km from Lakes Entrance)

If you can find a place more relaxed than Marlo , where the famous Snowy River seeps into the sea, we’d really like to know about it. Follow the Snowy River Estuary Walk from the centre of town to Mots Beach; Brad Farmer, Tourism Australia’s beach ambassador, reckons it’s one of Australia’s top 20 beaches of 2022. Just make sure you’re back before dark, because the sunset view from the verandah of the Marlo Pub is a knockout. They’ve been serving cold drinks since 1886 and we can vouch for the Lakes Entrance flathead tacos.

Corringle Slips, Marlo Beach, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Visit one of Australia’s best beaches.

On the way:

Take a side trip into the hills and down into an underground wonderland at Buchan Caves .

Stay:

Marlo Caravan Park & Motel

The Captain, Marlo, VIC, Australia
There’s no better place to relax than in Marlo.

Mallacoota (146km from Marlo)

It might be the end of the road on this epic coastal road trip, but as far as endings go it’s a happy one. Surrounded by Croajingolong National Park , Mallacoota really is a secluded paradise. What’s not to love about a place that combines wild beaches, expansive lakes, forested wilderness and fabulous seafood? And don’t leave town without sampling the dumplings and hand-made noodles from Lucy’s. Walk, kayak, cruise or pedal; there are so many ways to explore this beautiful place.

Rising canoes and kayaks, Mallacoota, Gippsland, Australia
There are so many ways to explore this beautiful place.

On the way:

Take a short side trip out to Cape Conran on the coast. You can marvel at wildflowers blooming in the banksia forests that have re-grown since the 2020 bushfires, and explore the rock pools and deserted beaches.

Stay:

Karbeethong Lodge , Mallacoota

Afternoon Jetty fishing, Mallacoota, Gippsland, VIC
Mallacoota, it doesn’t get much more idyllic.
Plan your dream coastal road trip at visitgippsland.com.au/do-and-see/drives.
Lee Atkinson
Lee Atkinson has been writing about her adventures on and off the road for newspapers, magazines and travel guides since 1991. A self-confessed road trip junky who loves getting away from the crowds in some of Australia’s most wild and remote places, she is the author of Ultimate Road Trips Australia and 13 other travel books.
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The Macedon Ranges is Victoria’s best-kept food and wine secret

Located just an hour north-west of Melbourne, the largely undiscovered Macedon Ranges quietly pours some of Australia’s finest cool-climate wines and serves up some of Victoria’s best food.

Mention the Macedon Ranges and most people will think of day spas and mineral springs around Daylesford, cosy weekends away in the countryside or the famous Hanging Rock (of enigmatic picnic fame). Or they won’t have heard of the Macedon Ranges at all.

But this cool-climate destination has been inconspicuously building a profile as a high-quality food and wine region and is beginning to draw serious attention from oenophiles and epicureans alike.

The rise of Macedon Ranges wine

liquid gold barrels at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery
Barrels of liquid gold at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

With elevations ranging from 300 to 800 metres, Macedon Ranges vineyards are among the highest in the country. This altitude, combined with significant day/night temperature swings, makes for a slow ripening season, in turn nurturing wines that embody elegance and structure. Think crisp chardonnays, subtle yet complex pinot noirs and delicate sparkling wines, along with niche varietals, such as gamay and nebbiolo.

Despite the region’s natural advantages – which vary from estate to estate, as each site embodies unique terroir depending on its position in relation to the Great Dividing Range, soil make-up and altitude – the Macedon Ranges has remained something of an insider’s secret. Unlike Victoria’s Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, you won’t find large tour buses here and there’s no mass marketing drawing crowds.

Many of the 40-odd wineries are family-run operations with modest yields, meaning the wineries maintain a personal touch (if you visit a cellar door, you’ll likely chat to the owner or winemaker themselves) and a tight sales circle that often doesn’t go far beyond said cellar door. And that’s part of the charm.

Though wines from the Macedon Ranges are just starting to gain more widespread recognition in Australia, the first vines were planted in the 1860s, with a handful of operators then setting up business in the 1970s and ’80s. The industry surged again in the 1990s and early 2000s with the entry of wineries, such as Mount Towrong, which has an Italian slant in both its wine and food offering, and Curly Flat , now one of the largest estates.

Meet the new generation of local winemakers

the Clydesdale barn at Paramoor.
The Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Then, within the last 15 years, a new crop of vignerons like Andrew Wood at Kyneton Ridge Estate , whose vineyard in 2024 was the first in the Macedon Ranges to be certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia; Geoff Plahn and Samantha Reid at Paramoor , who have an impressive cellar door with a roaring fire and studded leather couches in an old Clydesdale barn; and Ollie Rapson and Renata Morello at Lyons Will , who rapidly expanded a small vineyard to focus on top-shelf riesling, gamay, pinot noir and chardonnay, have taken ownership of local estates.

Going back to the early days, Llew Knight’s family was one of the pioneers of the 1970s, replacing sheep with vines at Granite Hills when the wool industry dwindled. Knight is proud of the fact that all their wines are made with grapes from their estate, including a light, peppery shiraz (some Macedon wineries purchase fruit from nearby warmer areas, such as Heathcote, particularly to make shiraz) and a European-style grüner veltliner. And, as many other wineries in the region do, he relies on natural acid for balance, rather than an additive, which is often required in warmer regions. “It’s all about understanding and respecting your climate to get the best out of your wines,” he says.

farm animals atKyneton Ridge Estate
Curious residents at Kyneton Ridge Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Throughout the Macedon Ranges, there’s a growing focus on sustainability and natural and low-intervention wines, with producers, such as Brian Martin at Hunter Gatherer making waves in regenerative viticulture. Martin previously worked in senior roles at Australia’s largest sparkling winemaking facility, and now applies that expertise and his own nous to natural, hands‑off, wild-fermented wines, including pét‑nat, riesling and pinot noir. “Wild fermentation brings more complexity,” he says. “Instead of introducing one species of yeast, you can have thousands and they add different characteristics to the wine.”

the vineyard at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery
The estate’s vineyard, where cool-climate grapes are grown. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Most producers also focus on nurturing their grapes in-field and prune and pick by hand, thus avoiding the introduction of impurities and the need to meddle too much in the winery. “The better the quality of the fruit, the less you have to interfere with the natural winemaking process,” says Wood.

Given the small yields, there’s also little room for error, meaning producers place immense focus on quality. “You’re never going to compete in the middle [in a small region] – you’ve got to aim for the top,” says Curly Flat owner Jeni Kolkka. “Big wineries try to do things as fast as possible, but we’re in no rush,” adds Troy Walsh, owner and winemaker at Attwoods . “We don’t use commercial yeasts; everything is hand-harvested and everything is bottled here, so we bottle only when we’re ready, not when a big truck arrives.” That’s why, when you do see a Macedon Ranges product on a restaurant wine list, it’s usually towards the pointy end.

Come for the wine, stay for the food

pouring sauce onto a dish at Lake HouseDaylesford
Dining at Lake House Daylesford is a treat. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

If wine is the quiet achiever of the Macedon Ranges, then food is its not-so-secret weapon. In fact, the area has more hatted restaurants than any other region in Victoria. A pioneer of the area’s gourmet food movement is region cheerleader Alla Wolf-Tasker, culinary icon and founder of Daylesford’s Lake House.

For more than three decades, Wolf-Tasker has championed local producers and helped define what regional fine dining can look like in Australia. Her influence is palpable, not just in the two-hatted Lake House kitchen, but in the broader ethos of the region’s dining scene, as a wave of high-quality restaurants have followed her lead to become true destination diners.

the Midnight Starling restaurant in Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery
The hatted Midnight Starling restaurant is located in Kyneton. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

It’s easy to eat well, whether at other hatted restaurants, such as Midnight Starling in the quaint town of Kyneton, or at the wineries themselves, like Le Bouchon at Attwoods, where Walsh is inspired by his time working in France in both his food offering and winemaking.

The beauty of dining and wine touring in the Macedon Ranges is that it feels intimate and unhurried. You’re likely to meet the winemaker, hear about the trials of the latest vintage firsthand, and taste wines that never make it to city shelves. And that’s worth getting out of the city for – even if it is just an hour down the road.

dishes on the menu at Midnight Starling
Delicate dishes on the menu at Midnight Starling. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the accommodation at Cleveland Estate, Macedon Ranges
Stay at the Cleveland Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Soak up vineyard views from Cleveland Estate near Lancefield , embrace retro charm at Kyneton Springs Motel or indulge in lakeside luxury at the Lake House .

Eating there

Enjoy a four-course menu at the one-hatted Surly Goat in Hepburn Springs, Japanese-inspired fare at Kuzu in Woodend or unpretentious fine dining at Mount Monument , which also has a sculpture park.

Drinking there

wine tasting at PassingClouds Winery, Macedon Ranges
A tasting at Passing Clouds Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Settle in for a tasting at Boomtown in Castlemaine, sample local drops at the cosy Woodend Cellar & Bar or wine-hop around the many cellar doors, such as Passing Clouds .

the Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar signage
Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Playing there

a scenic river in Castlemaine
Idyllic scenes at Castlemaine. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Wander through the seasonal splendour of Forest Glade Gardens , hike to the summit of Hanging Rock, or stroll around the tranquil Sanatorium Lake.

purple flowers hanging from a tree
Purple flowers hanging from a tree. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)