The ultimate 3-day itinerary for exploring Melbourne

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With a sophisticated air, eclectic inner-city neighbourhoods and some of the best restaurants in the country, Victoria has good reason to be proud of its culture hub capital.

The rivalry between the Victorian capital of Melbourne and Sydney to its north has always been heated, but pitting these two cities against each other is selling both of them short.

The fact is that Melbourne, with its buzzing restaurant scene, cosmopolitan cafe culture, genteel architecture, headlining sports events, powerhouse arts sector, and compelling inner-city laneways, is a world-class city with a unique appeal all its own. Feel like a local with this comprehensive Melbourne itinerary.

Day One

MORNING

people standing outside Dukes Coffee Roasters, Flinders Lane, Melbourne
Your first stop is the iconic Dukes Coffee Roasters on Flinders Lane. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Any exploration of the city should start at its heart, walking the maze of street art-lined laneways that contribute so much colour and life to Victoria’s capital. A big chunk of the city’s heavy hitters fork off from Flinders Lane (AC/DC, Degraves, Centre Place, Hosier), itself lined with destination diners and cool bars that pulse with action late into the night. Book into a street art tour with Melbourne Street Tours , which is run by street artists, or unleash your creativity at one of its Freehand Spraypainting Workshops.

But first, coffee. Dukes at Ross House is the flagship – and only – store of this specialty coffee roaster, and a longstanding cult classic venue.

a top view of a boutique shop inside Block Arcade, Melbourne
Block Arcade is a popular spot for gift shopping. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had your fill of murals, head to the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street, which is recognised by the National Trust for its historic architecture, to browse through the grand Block Arcade , or do a spot of luxury shopping at the likes of Dior, Hermès and Tiffany & Co.

MIDDAY

a woman at the counter of a gelato stall handing out ice cream to customers in Pidapipo
Get your freshly scooped gelato at Pidapipo. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Make your way through the throng of locals in Centre Place to shop at family-run Melbourne label Kinki Gerlinki . Or if you’re in the market for gifts, pop into Clementine’s : every last item in this shop was produced or crafted by a Victorian artist or business. Wait for a table at ShanDong Mama Mini for steaming hot dumplings – the mackerel is something of a house signature. Continue on to Degraves Street for dessert: Melbourne-born gelato shop par excellence Pidapipo is the place to indulge, and a splash of chocolate from the Nutella fountain atop your chosen scoop is a non-negotiable.

the building exterior of The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI)
The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) features rotating exhibitions of all things film related. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Federation Square is the next stop on any exploration of the city. This arts precinct is the universal meeting spot for locals, who flock here along with tourists to visit the interesting cluster of cultural institutions: ACMI , in celebration of all things film related, The Ian Potter Centre , and the Koorie Heritage Trust . Take one of  KHT’s Birrarung Wilam guided walks (everyday at 1pm) along the Birrarung Marr, the Aboriginal name for the Yarra River. You’ll visit places of cultural significance and hear stories of the river.

the City Circle Tram navigating the CBD
Hop on the City Circle Tram and get around the CBD for free. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’ve got any more gas left in the tank for sightseeing then hop aboard the City Circle Tram , which loops around the major sights and offers an audio commentary. Moreover, riding the line’s heritage W-class trams, with their beautiful timber interiors is completely free.

EVENING

an open-air dining venue at Arbory Bar & Eatery, Melbourne
Sit quietly by the water with a drink at the riverside Arbory Bar & Eatery. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Kick off the evening with an aperitif at a Melbourne icon, riverside. Arbory Bar & Eatery is a hit with the after-work knock-offs crowd, pumping come 6pm on a Friday. Or for a quirky archetypal Melbourne watering hole visit tiny Ponyfish Island , hidden under a bridge across the Yarra, like a pontoon.

a spread of food and drinks at Chin Chin, Melbourne
Tuck into the South East Asian fare on offer at Chin Chin. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There’s a glut of great restaurants to uncover, so might we suggest a progressive dinner? Flinders Lane is practically ground zero for culinary cachet in Melbourne, with Chin Chin , Coda, Kisumé and a trio of Andrew McConnell eateries (Cumulus Inc, Supernormal , and Gimlet ) all crowding the streetscape.

the Little Lon Distilling Co signage
The heritage-listed Little Lon Distilling Co is housed in a charming brick building. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Stop in for a nightcap at Little Lon Distilling Co , a CBD 20-seat craft gin distillery and cocktail bar, housed within a heritage-listed red brick cottage (c1877).

Day two

MORNING

coffee making at Market Lane Coffee, Melbourne
Market Lane Coffee showcases Melbourne’s best roasters. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Queen Victoria Market has been serving the people of Melbourne for well over 140 years, and it’s the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Browse hundreds of small businesses selling everything from fresh veg to souvenirs. Grab a coffee from another local indie operator, Market Lane Coffee , from inside the Dairy Produce Hall, and while you’re there, stock up on provisions. You’ll find an array of vendors with small goods, fresh bread, pastries, pâtés, and cheeses. A quick trip to the Borek Shop should set you up until lunchtime. And don’t leave without picking up a bag of hot, sugar-coated doughnuts from American Doughnut Kitchen .

MIDDAY

the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, NGV International, Melbourne
Installation view of the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, a collaboration between the British Museum and the NGV, on display from 14 June – 6 October 2024 at NGV International, Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Australia’s oldest and most visited public art museum, the main gallery of the NGV is always worth a visit for its headlining international shows, as well as its permanent collection, home to 70,000-plus works of art.

punting on the lake at Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne
Float across the ornamental lake at Royal Botanic Gardens. (Image: Visit Victoria)

For a slice of greenery, there are few spots more dreamy than the immaculately manicured Royal Botanic Gardens , featuring a smorgasbord of different flora and habitats. Lush green lawns (perfect for your picnic), an ornamental lake you can punt on, a forest walk, an arid garden full of cacti, and more. Perch under a parasol at lakeside cafe The Terrace, with a glass of bubbly before heading off.

EVENING

the cathedral-esque dining interior of Reine & La Rue
Book an elegant French dinner at the cathedral-esque Reine & La Rue. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Melbourne’s East End Theatre District is alive and well, and home to a host of historic theatres, many dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. Catch a play, musical, opera or ballet before hitting the only CBD restaurant that can match the drama, glamour and beauty of a show, Reine & La Rue . The former Melbourne Stock Exchange, with its soaring vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows and granite columns, is a showstopper, and the French fare on offer at this hatted restaurant is equally inspiring.

the Rooftop Bar at Curtin House
Sip on post-gig drinks as you soak up skyline views over Central Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Take to the rooftops for a nightcap. Victoria’s capital is known for its array of towering open-air bars that capture the glittering city skyline at night. Rooftop Bar at Curtin House is a failsafe, and one of the city’s OG’s.

Day three

MORNING

the Rathdowne Street in Carlton North
Peruse the restaurants along the leafy Rathdowne Street in Carlton North. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had enough coffee, culture and shopping within the inner-city’s tightly packed grid, it’s time to explore the personality packed suburbs: head to Fitzroy for vintage clothes, op shopping and bohemian cafes; Carlton (Melbourne’s Little Italy) for leafy streets lined with boutiques, bookstores and Italian eateries; or Prahran for its eclectic mix of swish brunch spots, hipster bars and a historic market.

MIDDAY

the timber interior at the all-day diner Cam’s, Melbourne
The local favourite all-day diner, Cam’s. (Image: Nicholas Wilkins)

Just four kilometres from the CBD, Abbotsford Convent was built in the 1800s and sits on six hectares of gardens and land; today it’s Australia’s largest multi-arts precinct. Drop into some of the resident artists’ studios, visit St Heliers Street Gallery and wander the grounds. Stick around at the convent for lunch, and dine al fresco under the cloisters at local favourite all-day diner Cam’s . Inside, the interiors feel inviting and lived-in, all timber, warm lighting and cosy booths. The menu leans Continental, with a handful of pastas and risottos and a number of small share plates.

EVENING

a crowded live entertainment venue at Northcote Theatre, Melbourne
Catch live entertainment at Northcote Theatre. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Go out with a bang at one of the city’s most prestigious eateries. Hit Vue De Monde for city views and refined dining on the 55th floor of the Rialto Building; try Attica for inventive, cutting-edge cuisine with a laser focus on native ingredients; or pay a visit to lauded Chinatown stalwart Flower Drum for Cantonese fine dining with an elegant ambience.

While the night’s still young, check out Melbourne’s much vaunted live music scene: The Richmond Corner Hotel , the historic CBD Forum , or Northcote Theatre are some of the city’s pre-eminent venues.

Chloe Cann
Chloe Cann is an award-winning freelance travel and food writer, born in England, based in Melbourne and Roman by adoption. Since honing her skills at City St George's, University of London with a master's degree in journalism, she's been writing almost exclusively about travel for more than a decade, and has worked in-house at newspapers and travel magazines in London, Phnom Penh, Sydney and Melbourne. Through a mixture of work and pleasure, she's been fortunate enough to visit 80 countries to date, though there are many more that she is itching to reach. While the strength of a region's food scene tends to dictate the location of her next trip, she can be equally swayed by the promise of interesting landscapes and offbeat experiences. And with a small person now in tow, travel looks a little different these days, but it remains at the front of her mind.
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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

    Kellie FloydBy Kellie Floyd
    Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

    Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

    walking trails in the Yarra Valley
    You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

    A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

    holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
    Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

    a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
    A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

    I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

    Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

    Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

    As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

    oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
    Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

    On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

    I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

    kangaroos in Yarra Valley
    Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

    the Yarra Valley vineyards
    Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

    Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

    COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

    It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

    A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

    legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
    The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

    The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

    I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

    The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

    After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

    Playing there

    the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
    Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

    Eating and drinking there

    Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

    seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
    The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)