The ultimate 3-day itinerary for exploring Melbourne

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With a sophisticated air, eclectic inner-city neighbourhoods and some of the best restaurants in the country, Victoria has good reason to be proud of its culture hub capital.

The rivalry between the Victorian capital of Melbourne and Sydney to its north has always been heated, but pitting these two cities against each other is selling both of them short.

The fact is that Melbourne, with its buzzing restaurant scene, cosmopolitan cafe culture, genteel architecture, headlining sports events, powerhouse arts sector, and compelling inner-city laneways, is a world-class city with a unique appeal all its own. Feel like a local with this comprehensive Melbourne itinerary.

Day One

MORNING

people standing outside Dukes Coffee Roasters, Flinders Lane, Melbourne
Your first stop is the iconic Dukes Coffee Roasters on Flinders Lane. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Any exploration of the city should start at its heart, walking the maze of street art-lined laneways that contribute so much colour and life to Victoria’s capital. A big chunk of the city’s heavy hitters fork off from Flinders Lane (AC/DC, Degraves, Centre Place, Hosier), itself lined with destination diners and cool bars that pulse with action late into the night. Book into a street art tour with Melbourne Street Tours , which is run by street artists, or unleash your creativity at one of its Freehand Spraypainting Workshops.

But first, coffee. Dukes at Ross House is the flagship – and only – store of this specialty coffee roaster, and a longstanding cult classic venue.

a top view of a boutique shop inside Block Arcade, Melbourne
Block Arcade is a popular spot for gift shopping. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had your fill of murals, head to the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street, which is recognised by the National Trust for its historic architecture, to browse through the grand Block Arcade , or do a spot of luxury shopping at the likes of Dior, Hermès and Tiffany & Co.

MIDDAY

a woman at the counter of a gelato stall handing out ice cream to customers in Pidapipo
Get your freshly scooped gelato at Pidapipo. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Make your way through the throng of locals in Centre Place to shop at family-run Melbourne label Kinki Gerlinki . Or if you’re in the market for gifts, pop into Clementine’s : every last item in this shop was produced or crafted by a Victorian artist or business. Wait for a table at ShanDong Mama Mini for steaming hot dumplings – the mackerel is something of a house signature. Continue on to Degraves Street for dessert: Melbourne-born gelato shop par excellence Pidapipo is the place to indulge, and a splash of chocolate from the Nutella fountain atop your chosen scoop is a non-negotiable.

the building exterior of The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI)
The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) features rotating exhibitions of all things film related. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Federation Square is the next stop on any exploration of the city. This arts precinct is the universal meeting spot for locals, who flock here along with tourists to visit the interesting cluster of cultural institutions: ACMI , in celebration of all things film related, The Ian Potter Centre , and the Koorie Heritage Trust . Take one of  KHT’s Birrarung Wilam guided walks (everyday at 1pm) along the Birrarung Marr, the Aboriginal name for the Yarra River. You’ll visit places of cultural significance and hear stories of the river.

the City Circle Tram navigating the CBD
Hop on the City Circle Tram and get around the CBD for free. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’ve got any more gas left in the tank for sightseeing then hop aboard the City Circle Tram , which loops around the major sights and offers an audio commentary. Moreover, riding the line’s heritage W-class trams, with their beautiful timber interiors is completely free.

EVENING

an open-air dining venue at Arbory Bar & Eatery, Melbourne
Sit quietly by the water with a drink at the riverside Arbory Bar & Eatery. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Kick off the evening with an aperitif at a Melbourne icon, riverside. Arbory Bar & Eatery is a hit with the after-work knock-offs crowd, pumping come 6pm on a Friday. Or for a quirky archetypal Melbourne watering hole visit tiny Ponyfish Island , hidden under a bridge across the Yarra, like a pontoon.

a spread of food and drinks at Chin Chin, Melbourne
Tuck into the South East Asian fare on offer at Chin Chin. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There’s a glut of great restaurants to uncover, so might we suggest a progressive dinner? Flinders Lane is practically ground zero for culinary cachet in Melbourne, with Chin Chin , Coda, Kisumé and a trio of Andrew McConnell eateries (Cumulus Inc, Supernormal , and Gimlet ) all crowding the streetscape.

the Little Lon Distilling Co signage
The heritage-listed Little Lon Distilling Co is housed in a charming brick building. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Stop in for a nightcap at Little Lon Distilling Co , a CBD 20-seat craft gin distillery and cocktail bar, housed within a heritage-listed red brick cottage (c1877).

Day two

MORNING

coffee making at Market Lane Coffee, Melbourne
Market Lane Coffee showcases Melbourne’s best roasters. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Queen Victoria Market has been serving the people of Melbourne for well over 140 years, and it’s the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Browse hundreds of small businesses selling everything from fresh veg to souvenirs. Grab a coffee from another local indie operator, Market Lane Coffee , from inside the Dairy Produce Hall, and while you’re there, stock up on provisions. You’ll find an array of vendors with small goods, fresh bread, pastries, pâtés, and cheeses. A quick trip to the Borek Shop should set you up until lunchtime. And don’t leave without picking up a bag of hot, sugar-coated doughnuts from American Doughnut Kitchen .

MIDDAY

the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, NGV International, Melbourne
Installation view of the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, a collaboration between the British Museum and the NGV, on display from 14 June – 6 October 2024 at NGV International, Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Australia’s oldest and most visited public art museum, the main gallery of the NGV is always worth a visit for its headlining international shows, as well as its permanent collection, home to 70,000-plus works of art.

punting on the lake at Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne
Float across the ornamental lake at Royal Botanic Gardens. (Image: Visit Victoria)

For a slice of greenery, there are few spots more dreamy than the immaculately manicured Royal Botanic Gardens , featuring a smorgasbord of different flora and habitats. Lush green lawns (perfect for your picnic), an ornamental lake you can punt on, a forest walk, an arid garden full of cacti, and more. Perch under a parasol at lakeside cafe The Terrace, with a glass of bubbly before heading off.

EVENING

the cathedral-esque dining interior of Reine & La Rue
Book an elegant French dinner at the cathedral-esque Reine & La Rue. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Melbourne’s East End Theatre District is alive and well, and home to a host of historic theatres, many dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. Catch a play, musical, opera or ballet before hitting the only CBD restaurant that can match the drama, glamour and beauty of a show, Reine & La Rue . The former Melbourne Stock Exchange, with its soaring vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows and granite columns, is a showstopper, and the French fare on offer at this hatted restaurant is equally inspiring.

the Rooftop Bar at Curtin House
Sip on post-gig drinks as you soak up skyline views over Central Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Take to the rooftops for a nightcap. Victoria’s capital is known for its array of towering open-air bars that capture the glittering city skyline at night. Rooftop Bar at Curtin House is a failsafe, and one of the city’s OG’s.

Day three

MORNING

the Rathdowne Street in Carlton North
Peruse the restaurants along the leafy Rathdowne Street in Carlton North. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had enough coffee, culture and shopping within the inner-city’s tightly packed grid, it’s time to explore the personality packed suburbs: head to Fitzroy for vintage clothes, op shopping and bohemian cafes; Carlton (Melbourne’s Little Italy) for leafy streets lined with boutiques, bookstores and Italian eateries; or Prahran for its eclectic mix of swish brunch spots, hipster bars and a historic market.

MIDDAY

the timber interior at the all-day diner Cam’s, Melbourne
The local favourite all-day diner, Cam’s. (Image: Nicholas Wilkins)

Just four kilometres from the CBD, Abbotsford Convent was built in the 1800s and sits on six hectares of gardens and land; today it’s Australia’s largest multi-arts precinct. Drop into some of the resident artists’ studios, visit St Heliers Street Gallery and wander the grounds. Stick around at the convent for lunch, and dine al fresco under the cloisters at local favourite all-day diner Cam’s . Inside, the interiors feel inviting and lived-in, all timber, warm lighting and cosy booths. The menu leans Continental, with a handful of pastas and risottos and a number of small share plates.

EVENING

a crowded live entertainment venue at Northcote Theatre, Melbourne
Catch live entertainment at Northcote Theatre. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Go out with a bang at one of the city’s most prestigious eateries. Hit Vue De Monde for city views and refined dining on the 55th floor of the Rialto Building; try Attica for inventive, cutting-edge cuisine with a laser focus on native ingredients; or pay a visit to lauded Chinatown stalwart Flower Drum for Cantonese fine dining with an elegant ambience.

While the night’s still young, check out Melbourne’s much vaunted live music scene: The Richmond Corner Hotel , the historic CBD Forum , or Northcote Theatre are some of the city’s pre-eminent venues.

Chloe Cann
Chloe Cann is an award-winning freelance travel and food writer, born in England, based in Melbourne and Roman by adoption. Since honing her skills at City St George's, University of London with a master's degree in journalism, she's been writing almost exclusively about travel for more than a decade, and has worked in-house at newspapers and travel magazines in London, Phnom Penh, Sydney and Melbourne. Through a mixture of work and pleasure, she's been fortunate enough to visit 80 countries to date, though there are many more that she is itching to reach. While the strength of a region's food scene tends to dictate the location of her next trip, she can be equally swayed by the promise of interesting landscapes and offbeat experiences. And with a small person now in tow, travel looks a little different these days, but it remains at the front of her mind.
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The iconic Victorian beach where true Aussie surf culture was born

Torquay’s Bells Beach is considered one of the best surf beaches in the world.

It’d be easy to think Australian surf culture was born around the right-hand point breaks of the Gold Coast and Byron Bay. These regions seem the epitome of how the world views Aussie surfers – bronzed (or burnt), languishing in warm water and sunshine. The reality is a lot different.

The rise of surf culture along Victoria’s coastline

surfers at Bells Beach in Australia
Surfers stand on the shore at Bells Beach, where the country’s biggest surfing competition is held each year. (Image: Getty/Filed Image)

True Aussie surf culture was born on the chilly waves of Victoria’s winters, when huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean hit cliff-lined beaches along the Great Ocean Road . These beaches were the ultimate proving ground – surfers from all over Australia arrived in panel vans and VWs to do battle with the biggest waves they could find.

huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean at Bells Beach
Surfers take advantage of the huge swells from the Great Southern Ocean at Bells Beach. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

There are surf breaks all along this very picturesque coast – but those around Torquay were most revered. The ultimate test of a surfer’s ability – and durability – however, was Bells Beach: Australia’s answer to Hawai‘i’s Pipeline. Just beyond, the breaks at Jan Juc and Winkipop beckoned.

an aerial view of surfers at Bells Beach
Hit the waves along the picturesque coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay became surfing’s Silicon Valley: HQ for the entire Australian surf culture revolution. Four young locals worked out of their backyards in Torquay to create two of the world’s biggest surf labels – Rip Curl and Quiksilver , which soon became the region’s biggest employers.

surfers out at Bells Beach
Surfers out at Bells Beach, Victoria’s most famous beach. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

Rip Curl started sponsoring the Bells Beach Pro in 1973 – and have done ever since. It’s been going since 1962 – making it the world’s longest continually run surfing contest. Held every Easter, it’s part of the world surfing tour. Spectators line its 30-metre-high cliffs to watch the world’s best take on enormous waves – it’s the ultimate coliseum for the sport and has inspired generations of Aussie surfers to join the list of heroes whose names are on its iconic bell.

Follow the waves through Victoria’s surfing heartland

Australian National Surfing Museum, Torquay
The Australian National Surfing Museum in Torquay. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Just behind Torquay’s main drag, you can see all that history on display at the world’s best surf museum – the Australian National Surfing Museum . Here you can take your time absorbing the 100-year-or-so history of Australian surfing and check out the 150-strong surfboard collection.

surfboards on display at Australian National Surfing Museum
The museum holds surfing memorabilia, including a room dedicated to the history of boards. (Image: Tourism Australia)

But classic Aussie surf culture can be observed in everyday life all over the Great Ocean Road and Torquay. Surfing dictates life here; no work is done until the big swells have come and gone. Just being here provides a window into 60-odd years of rebellion against convention; for no-one likes nine-to-five living on the Great Ocean Road.

surfing memorabilia at Australian National Surfing Museum
The varied displays celebrate the Bells Beach competition, surfing legends and Aussie surf culture. (Image: Tourism Australia)

There’s less panel vans and VW Beetles these days, but surf culture still rules life. Surfers run this coast; you’re better off keeping out of their way when they’re running down past you to face the biggest swells – then hear them swap stories at cafes, restaurants and bars all around you.

surfing at Bells Beach
The beach near Torquay is Australia’s answer to Hawai‘i’s Pipeline. (Image: Visit Victoria/William Watt)