The ultimate 3-day itinerary for exploring Melbourne

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With a sophisticated air, eclectic inner-city neighbourhoods and some of the best restaurants in the country, Victoria has good reason to be proud of its culture hub capital.

The rivalry between the Victorian capital of Melbourne and Sydney to its north has always been heated, but pitting these two cities against each other is selling both of them short.

The fact is that Melbourne, with its buzzing restaurant scene, cosmopolitan cafe culture, genteel architecture, headlining sports events, powerhouse arts sector, and compelling inner-city laneways, is a world-class city with a unique appeal all its own. Feel like a local with this comprehensive Melbourne itinerary.

Day One

MORNING

people standing outside Dukes Coffee Roasters, Flinders Lane, Melbourne
Your first stop is the iconic Dukes Coffee Roasters on Flinders Lane. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Any exploration of the city should start at its heart, walking the maze of street art-lined laneways that contribute so much colour and life to Victoria’s capital. A big chunk of the city’s heavy hitters fork off from Flinders Lane (AC/DC, Degraves, Centre Place, Hosier), itself lined with destination diners and cool bars that pulse with action late into the night. Book into a street art tour with Melbourne Street Tours , which is run by street artists, or unleash your creativity at one of its Freehand Spraypainting Workshops.

But first, coffee. Dukes at Ross House is the flagship – and only – store of this specialty coffee roaster, and a longstanding cult classic venue.

a top view of a boutique shop inside Block Arcade, Melbourne
Block Arcade is a popular spot for gift shopping. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had your fill of murals, head to the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street, which is recognised by the National Trust for its historic architecture, to browse through the grand Block Arcade , or do a spot of luxury shopping at the likes of Dior, Hermès and Tiffany & Co.

MIDDAY

a woman at the counter of a gelato stall handing out ice cream to customers in Pidapipo
Get your freshly scooped gelato at Pidapipo. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Make your way through the throng of locals in Centre Place to shop at family-run Melbourne label Kinki Gerlinki . Or if you’re in the market for gifts, pop into Clementine’s : every last item in this shop was produced or crafted by a Victorian artist or business. Wait for a table at ShanDong Mama Mini for steaming hot dumplings – the mackerel is something of a house signature. Continue on to Degraves Street for dessert: Melbourne-born gelato shop par excellence Pidapipo is the place to indulge, and a splash of chocolate from the Nutella fountain atop your chosen scoop is a non-negotiable.

the building exterior of The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI)
The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) features rotating exhibitions of all things film related. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Federation Square is the next stop on any exploration of the city. This arts precinct is the universal meeting spot for locals, who flock here along with tourists to visit the interesting cluster of cultural institutions: ACMI , in celebration of all things film related, The Ian Potter Centre , and the Koorie Heritage Trust . Take one of  KHT’s Birrarung Wilam guided walks (everyday at 1pm) along the Birrarung Marr, the Aboriginal name for the Yarra River. You’ll visit places of cultural significance and hear stories of the river.

the City Circle Tram navigating the CBD
Hop on the City Circle Tram and get around the CBD for free. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’ve got any more gas left in the tank for sightseeing then hop aboard the City Circle Tram , which loops around the major sights and offers an audio commentary. Moreover, riding the line’s heritage W-class trams, with their beautiful timber interiors is completely free.

EVENING

an open-air dining venue at Arbory Bar & Eatery, Melbourne
Sit quietly by the water with a drink at the riverside Arbory Bar & Eatery. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Kick off the evening with an aperitif at a Melbourne icon, riverside. Arbory Bar & Eatery is a hit with the after-work knock-offs crowd, pumping come 6pm on a Friday. Or for a quirky archetypal Melbourne watering hole visit tiny Ponyfish Island , hidden under a bridge across the Yarra, like a pontoon.

a spread of food and drinks at Chin Chin, Melbourne
Tuck into the South East Asian fare on offer at Chin Chin. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There’s a glut of great restaurants to uncover, so might we suggest a progressive dinner? Flinders Lane is practically ground zero for culinary cachet in Melbourne, with Chin Chin , Coda, Kisumé and a trio of Andrew McConnell eateries (Cumulus Inc, Supernormal , and Gimlet ) all crowding the streetscape.

the Little Lon Distilling Co signage
The heritage-listed Little Lon Distilling Co is housed in a charming brick building. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Stop in for a nightcap at Little Lon Distilling Co , a CBD 20-seat craft gin distillery and cocktail bar, housed within a heritage-listed red brick cottage (c1877).

Day two

MORNING

coffee making at Market Lane Coffee, Melbourne
Market Lane Coffee showcases Melbourne’s best roasters. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Queen Victoria Market has been serving the people of Melbourne for well over 140 years, and it’s the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Browse hundreds of small businesses selling everything from fresh veg to souvenirs. Grab a coffee from another local indie operator, Market Lane Coffee , from inside the Dairy Produce Hall, and while you’re there, stock up on provisions. You’ll find an array of vendors with small goods, fresh bread, pastries, pâtés, and cheeses. A quick trip to the Borek Shop should set you up until lunchtime. And don’t leave without picking up a bag of hot, sugar-coated doughnuts from American Doughnut Kitchen .

MIDDAY

the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, NGV International, Melbourne
Installation view of the 2024 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces® Pharaoh, a collaboration between the British Museum and the NGV, on display from 14 June – 6 October 2024 at NGV International, Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Australia’s oldest and most visited public art museum, the main gallery of the NGV is always worth a visit for its headlining international shows, as well as its permanent collection, home to 70,000-plus works of art.

punting on the lake at Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne
Float across the ornamental lake at Royal Botanic Gardens. (Image: Visit Victoria)

For a slice of greenery, there are few spots more dreamy than the immaculately manicured Royal Botanic Gardens , featuring a smorgasbord of different flora and habitats. Lush green lawns (perfect for your picnic), an ornamental lake you can punt on, a forest walk, an arid garden full of cacti, and more. Perch under a parasol at lakeside cafe The Terrace, with a glass of bubbly before heading off.

EVENING

the cathedral-esque dining interior of Reine & La Rue
Book an elegant French dinner at the cathedral-esque Reine & La Rue. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Melbourne’s East End Theatre District is alive and well, and home to a host of historic theatres, many dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. Catch a play, musical, opera or ballet before hitting the only CBD restaurant that can match the drama, glamour and beauty of a show, Reine & La Rue . The former Melbourne Stock Exchange, with its soaring vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows and granite columns, is a showstopper, and the French fare on offer at this hatted restaurant is equally inspiring.

the Rooftop Bar at Curtin House
Sip on post-gig drinks as you soak up skyline views over Central Melbourne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Take to the rooftops for a nightcap. Victoria’s capital is known for its array of towering open-air bars that capture the glittering city skyline at night. Rooftop Bar at Curtin House is a failsafe, and one of the city’s OG’s.

Day three

MORNING

the Rathdowne Street in Carlton North
Peruse the restaurants along the leafy Rathdowne Street in Carlton North. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Once you’ve had enough coffee, culture and shopping within the inner-city’s tightly packed grid, it’s time to explore the personality packed suburbs: head to Fitzroy for vintage clothes, op shopping and bohemian cafes; Carlton (Melbourne’s Little Italy) for leafy streets lined with boutiques, bookstores and Italian eateries; or Prahran for its eclectic mix of swish brunch spots, hipster bars and a historic market.

MIDDAY

the timber interior at the all-day diner Cam’s, Melbourne
The local favourite all-day diner, Cam’s. (Image: Nicholas Wilkins)

Just four kilometres from the CBD, Abbotsford Convent was built in the 1800s and sits on six hectares of gardens and land; today it’s Australia’s largest multi-arts precinct. Drop into some of the resident artists’ studios, visit St Heliers Street Gallery and wander the grounds. Stick around at the convent for lunch, and dine al fresco under the cloisters at local favourite all-day diner Cam’s . Inside, the interiors feel inviting and lived-in, all timber, warm lighting and cosy booths. The menu leans Continental, with a handful of pastas and risottos and a number of small share plates.

EVENING

a crowded live entertainment venue at Northcote Theatre, Melbourne
Catch live entertainment at Northcote Theatre. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Go out with a bang at one of the city’s most prestigious eateries. Hit Vue De Monde for city views and refined dining on the 55th floor of the Rialto Building; try Attica for inventive, cutting-edge cuisine with a laser focus on native ingredients; or pay a visit to lauded Chinatown stalwart Flower Drum for Cantonese fine dining with an elegant ambience.

While the night’s still young, check out Melbourne’s much vaunted live music scene: The Richmond Corner Hotel , the historic CBD Forum , or Northcote Theatre are some of the city’s pre-eminent venues.

Chloe Cann
Chloe Cann is an award-winning freelance travel and food writer, born in England, based in Melbourne and Roman by adoption. Since honing her skills at City St George's, University of London with a master's degree in journalism, she's been writing almost exclusively about travel for more than a decade, and has worked in-house at newspapers and travel magazines in London, Phnom Penh, Sydney and Melbourne. Through a mixture of work and pleasure, she's been fortunate enough to visit 80 countries to date, though there are many more that she is itching to reach. While the strength of a region's food scene tends to dictate the location of her next trip, she can be equally swayed by the promise of interesting landscapes and offbeat experiences. And with a small person now in tow, travel looks a little different these days, but it remains at the front of her mind.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.