From iconic sporting venues and graffiti-daubed laneways to kid-focused cultural attractions, a family staycay in Melbourne is always a good idea.

Victoria’s capital is known for its street art, jam-packed festival roster, sporting events, diverse restaurants, live music scene and cafe culture. But few outsiders know just how child-friendly this city really is.

Beyond the obvious attractions (the gardens, playgrounds, pedestrianised streets, and the laundry list of Insta-friendly food options infused with novelty), Melbourne also plays host to a raft of dedicated kids attractions that will impress their grown-ups too. There’s something for all ages in this Melbourne itinerary for families.

Day one

Morning

Start in the heart of the city. The best way to get your bearings is by jumping on a tram, which is actually free to ride within the inner-city grid. While the modern trams are all sleek and air-conditioned, tiny tramspotters will be buzzing over the green and gold hop-on, hop-off vintage City Circle Trams, with their charming timber interiors. The tram loops around Melbourne’s landmarks and offers a recorded audio commentary along the way, too.

Alight at stop six (Russell St/Flinders St) and grab coffee and a croissant from powerhouse croissanterie Lune, once proclaimed by The New York Times to bake the best croissant in the world: there are always novel flavour combinations the kids will lap up.

Next, head down Hosier Lane to discover a world of colour. Melbourne is widely known as Australia’s street art capital, and this laneway is one of the city’s best (Flinders Lane, Degraves Street and AC/DC Lane also hold their own), layers of artwork splashed across every brick.

Peruse some of the city’s historic and ornate shopping arcades, the grand dame of which is The Royal Arcade on Bourke Street (est 1870).

Parents can mosey through the fashion and giftware boutiques, while the kids enjoy Koko Black chocolates.

Midday

Federation Square is a parent’s dream: it’s densely populated with attractions, so there’s no need to waste time dragging the kids from one end of the city to the other. Make ACMI your first stop. This cultural institute pays homage to moving images of all kinds. Expect a glut of interactive displays, video games, regular movie screenings and big-ticket visiting exhibitions, many of which appeal to all ages.

The Koorie Heritage Trust (KHT), which reopened in late 2023 after an extensive renovation and expansion, is another must-visit. KHT celebrates the rich cultures and traditions of Victoria and southern NSW’s Koorie peoples, cultures and communities. There are exhibitions, events and cultural education programs, including the Birrarung Wilam guided walk along the Birrarung (the Wurundjeri name for the Yarra River), which pauses at art installations and culturally significant sites while sharing the stories of the river.

There are a number of different lunch options on offer at this end of the city. Upmarket Chocolate Buddha (what kid doesn’t love the novelty of a sushi train) is a tried-and-true family favourite; otherwise, there’s a sizable selection of casual options down on the riverfront.

Perennially popular Arbory Bar & Eatery might be better known for knock-offs with the city’s suits, but this casual, open-air venue is also perfect if the kids don’t feel like sitting quietly for an hour at the table. There’s high-end pub food for mum and dad (lobster rolls with truffle fries, wagyu steak sandwiches, seafood chowder), plus a more low-key kids’ menu for the little ones.

Evening

If the kids need to burn off some energy before dinner, Birrarung Marr Playground is just around the corner. It’s a huge space with equipment for almost every age – slides, sandpits, swinging hammocks, rock and rope climbing, and balance beams. It’s situated right next to Art Play: an arts centre dedicated to kids aged 0 to 13 that runs a host of different programs. The caveat is that you’ll need to book any experiences in advance. For a bit of novelty, and to see the city from a different angle, you could take to the river on one of the city’s electric picnic boats.

For a pre-dinner stroll, Degraves Street is perfect. This CBD laneway is something of a Melbourne icon, and with a host of tables spilling out onto the street, it’s a nice spot for people-watching and an aperitivo.

If the kids are fond of Thai food, then Dodee Paidang on Little Collins Street is a solid option for dinner. Not only will the ‘kitten’ robots be a source of much entertainment, but the signature teddy bear milk tea (a soft, bear-shaped bun filled with Thai milk tea custard) is a winner for dessert too.

Day two

Morning

Jump on a tram and chart a course for Melbourne’s Botanic Gardens, which has its very own kids’ garden. The Ian Potter Foundation Children’s Garden was purpose-built for kids, and it’s a magical place to explore: there’s a meandering stream to paddle in, a rocky ‘ruin garden’ begging to be climbed, fountains for jumping in, and forests to wander through. If you’re travelling with older kids, then take a punt between the bays and islands of the Ornamental Lake on a guided cruise (available from 10.30am to 5pm daily).

If Melbourne’s mercurial weather is playing ball, then the gardens’ lush lawns are a beautiful spot to while away a couple of hours over a picnic. And for those less organised (or inclined), The Terrace, overlooking the lake, is a failsafe for hot chippies and all-day dining classics.

Midday

From the Shrine of Remembrance, it’s a pretty leisurely stroll to the NGV, Australia’s oldest and most-visited gallery. It’s home to the state’s blockbuster exhibitions, and also hosts a very respectable permanent collection. But the standout for families is the Children’s Gallery, which hosts large-scale interactive installations designed for kids, and is guaranteed to mop up at least an hour of free time. Culture? Tick.

Back in town, the State Library of Victoria is well worth a visit. Founded in 1854, it was one of the first free public libraries in the world. The Pauline Gandel Children’s Quarter caters to kids 12 and under. Beyond the obvious attractions (more than 4,000 kids’ books), there are reading nooks, play areas, board games for kids aged 8 to 12, and often craft activities on offer too; perfect for a rainy day. Meanwhile, kids and parents alike will marvel at the architecture of the Edwardian La Trobe Reading Room: an octagonal space that stretches six storeys high and is surrounded by tiered galleries, and topped by a huge glass dome.

Evening

The oldest continuously running Chinatown in the Western world is a riot of colour day and night, and offers plenty of choice when it comes to restaurants. Opt for dinner and a ‘show’ at HuTong Dumpling Bar: the kids can watch as nimble-fingered dumpling masters fill and twist dumplings in the kitchen before digging into the little hot and steaming delicacies.

Day three

Morning

Older kids will love the bohemian vibe of Melbourne’s oldest suburb, Fitzroy, which presents like one giant canvas daubed with everything from bug-eyed cats to an iconic (and now heritage-listed) work by the late contemporary artist Keith Haring. You’ll find this mural on Johnston Street, not far from Das T-Shirt Automat, where the kids can pick up a T-shirt they’ve custom-designed online from a tiny window.

With a serious concentration of cafes here as well, Fitzroy is a great stop for breakfast before browsing the shops along Brunswick Street. Colourful, casual Colombian cafe Sonido could prove just the tonic. Picky eaters can keep it super simple with a cheese arepa (cornmeal flatbread), while those more adventurous diners can choose their own adventure (chargrilled black pudding, beans, salsa, guacamole, fried eggs and more).

Grab a boujee sandwich (and maybe a cheeky pastry) from Morning Market to take away for lunch.

Midday

If you’ve got kids under five, the Melbourne Museum is a non-negotiable, notably for the Pauline Gandel Children’s Gallery. A wonderland of interactive displays that feature disco corners, motion-activated noises, computer-aided design stations, taxidermied tigers, outdoor fossil dig sites, climbing frames masquerading as trees and more. You’ll likely need to book a slot in advance, but tickets are included with museum entry.

Bigger kids aren’t left out of the equation either: there’s a daily eel feeding in the gardens; a misty Forest Gallery that features cool temperate towering rainforest, ponds, waterfalls, and all kinds of flora and fauna; dinosaur exhibits; a huge display of insects (both alive and dead); a hypnotising immersive projection experience; and plenty more beyond.

After your daily dose of culture, Carlton Gardens is a lovely spot to wander and grab some fresh air. Go for a stroll through the greenery, venture to the eponymous nearby playground, or check out the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Royal Exhibition Building, which lies right in front of the museum’s entrance. Come dusk, your little ones might also enjoy spotting the brazen possums that roam around these parts.

Evening

Melbourne’s Little Italy, Carlton, has a village vibe. Here, students from the nearby universities mingle with elderly local Italian gents, creative professionals linger over a long lunch, and visitors from far and wide. This inner-city suburb is known for its cafe culture, wine bars, boutiques, sweet treats and pizza/pasta restaurants.

It’s less than a ten-minute walk from Melbourne Museum to Carlton’s leafy main drag, Lygon Street. Have a mosey along, and pop into Readings Kids — a lovely little speciality bookshop that stocks only kids’ and young adult titles.

If you’re looking for something super casual for dinner, Brunetti Classico is a pillar of the Carlton cafe scene that will transport you straight to a Roman caffetteria. It’s known for Italian pastries, but Brunetti also promises pastas, salads and wood-fired pizzas. Or for something a little more upscale (and fabulously retro), try Johnny, Vince and Sam’s, which looks just like Nonna’s house. Both venues offer kids’ menus.

Day four

Morning

If you have a little AFL or cricket fiend in the family, make a beeline for the MCG. Here, you can watch a game, take a stadium tour, or visit the Australian Sports Museum. And for tiny tennis fans, book into Tennis World’s Australian Open Guided Tours at Melbourne Park and gain behind-the-scenes access to training areas, changing rooms, the player lounge and the underground paths leading to the courts.

Midday

Another day, another great inner-city Melbourne suburb to explore; today it’s Collingwood, home to a brand of quirky creativity that kids will find compelling. There’s a burger joint housed in an old train carriage that is perched on top of a building (Easey’s), and Japanese-inspired trinkets to peruse at CIBI. Or stock up on freshly baked breads and pastries at To Be Frank Bakery (and sip more good coffee) while sitting on a milk crate out front next to a mural.

Evening

Back in the city, hop on a tram bound for St Kilda to spend the afternoon riding the dodgem cars at Luna Park. Head to St Kilda Pier to watch the sunset over Port Phillip Bay before catching dinner at one of the many restaurants that line Acland Street.

Alternatively, linger for longer on the waterfront at local institution Stokehouse. While upstairs is all about fine dining, the downstairs ‘Pasta & Bar’ venue is its more casual counterpart, and that most elusive of venues: parents will be thrilled at the prospect of impeccably cooked seafood and pasta with a view, while kids can enjoy their own menu and dabble in beach runs between courses.