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This is the best Aussie city to visit in winter – it’s even better than Hobart

Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ray Reyes

Come winter, Melbourne doesn’t hibernate – it elevates. Here’s how to make the most of this city’s cool-weather culture.

Melbourne wins winter

Look, many of our cities are good contenders for a winter escape. Hobart turns hot when the weather turns cold – with our southernmost city laying on the art, festivals and embracing hand-knitted beanies paired with weather-resistant jackets worthy of Everest’s Dead Zone.

Canberra’s enviable proximity to snowfields has an undeniable pull for quick, city-to-snow transitions. Meanwhile, “Winter?" says Darwin and Broome. Nah, we don’t do that. What about just hot and dry, instead of hot and wet? Also great, if your chills are multiplying.

And while Sydney has my heart, its needy dependence on sunshine and mild temperatures, is frankly, a bit embarrassing. Nobody knows what to do in Sydney when the mercury sinks below 16°C. Every year, it’s as if the arrival of winter is a complete and utter surprise.

Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club
Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club. (Credit: MAMAS Dining Group)

But Melbourne? Melbourne never lets a bit of weather get in the way of a good time. It’s a cultural thing as much as it’s stitched into the city’s built-environment and the population’s psyche. Conditions on Collins Street can mirror the Arctic tundra and Melburnians will just get on. Sure, life will angle toward the outdoors when the weather suits, but temperate days are a nice-to-have, not a requirement for living merrily.

Street art at Swan St in Richmond
Street art in Richmond awaits those willing to explore outside in the winter. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Jesse Hisco)

So, we do declare, hands-down (but with Hobart hot on its heels – also the location of one of my most memorable trips), Melbourne wins winter. It’s the ideal mid-year minibreak because there’s so much to do. With everything from art exhibitions and events to cosy fireside pubs, ultra-cool listening bars, design-led hotels and adorable, wine-adjacent towns waiting just beyond the city limits, there is something to delight at every intersection of your interests. It’s a place to relish winter, not just hibernate through it. So if you’re looking for a mid-winter reset, don’t think twice about booking that sale flight to the Victorian capital.

Melbourne restaurants you need to visit in winter

Melbourne is a food-loving city. Maybe it even has more gourmands per capita than any other Aussie city. We’ll never know for sure (so relax, Adelaide, we see you, too). But we can be sure that there is no shortage of great restaurants, from hip new places to long-lived icons on the city’s dining scene. Add these to your itinerary.

Frenchie

Two people dining at Frenchie in Melbourne
Frenchie is a laneway hit that will satisfy on even the coldest evening. (Credit: Griffin Simm)

Bucking all trends of French fare being high-and-mighty fine-dining, this laneway hit is all nouveau bistro style with rambunctious energy and a truly disruptive ‘everything $14’ classic menu. It takes walk-ins and is open for lunch and dinner until midnight – because the party doesn’t stop just because it’s a bit chilly.

France-Soir

From new a Frenchie to an old classic, France-Soir is a Melbourne institution that has been servicing the city with well-put-together dishes of steak tartare and bouef bourguignon for 40 years. It’s a settle-in-er, so take your time and linger over a post-dinner cognac.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Spaghetti Club

Interiors of Spaghetti Club in Melbourne
Nab a cosy booth at Spaghetti Club and enjoy the carb-heavy menu with wine. (Credit: Salt House)

Melbourne knows Italian and this easy-going trattoria in Richmond with a proud nonna-core culture proves the point. It’s all good pasta, home-style vibes and affable service with Sicilian roots.

Melbourne’s listening bars are the perfect winter activity

Vinyl culture is strong in Melbourne and the city has the record (quite literally) of having more record stores per capita than any other city in the world. Yes, the world. So it tracks that listening bars are a thing here.

Bar Selecta

This Hawthorne listening bar has taken directly from the Tokyo playbook with dim-lit moods and vinyl grooves. There are well-mixed cocktails, lots of sake, BYO vinyl Sundays and other themed nights.

Waxflower

A bit of everything, Waxflower is a very Melbourne café by day, transforming into a Euro-style wine bar cross Japanese listening bar in the evening. Slide in here for lunch to aperitivo and evening listening sessions.

Does Melbourne offer winter events? You bet!

Melbourne keeps the events rolling out through the calendar year, from regular exhibitions at galleries across the city to dedicated winter events. You’ll have to be strategic about what you see, as there’s too much on to cram it all into one short break.

Winter Night Market

Apple cider on fire at Queen Victoria Winter Night Market
The winter night market at Queen Victoria Markets turns up the heat. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ewen Bell)

Cold nights are all part of the fun in Melbourne and the beloved Queen Victoria Market leans in through the winter months by staying open late every Wednesday night. There’s festoon lights, fire pits, warming drinks and, of course, plenty of morsels and stalls to sample.

Melbourne winter masterpieces at the NGV

A woman visiting the NGV Cartier exhibit
The NGV is never short on incredible exhibits. (Credit: Sean Fennessy)

The NGV is not short on engrossing and exclusive exhibitions. This winter, the gallery is hosting a 300-piece Cartier exhibition from 12 June to 4 October. All those dazzling gemstones are sure to put the shine in a winter’s day.

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Lightscape

Lightscape Royal Botanic Garden Melbourne
Lightscape illuminates the Royal Botanic Gardens of an evening each winter. (Credit: Supplied)

Illuminating the Royal Botanic Gardens until 2 August, Lightscape is an outdoor exhibition of luminous art installations. It’s an after-dark experience that fits perfectly with a cold, winter’s night.

Where to stay in Melbourne during winter?

Melbourne is boutique-forward when it comes to accommodation, but it also spreads out across the spectrum, whether you’re looking for five-star-fancy or the edgy elegance of the W, you’ll find it all close the city’s best entertainment – so you can rug up and walk out. Here, we’re calling out these two for proximity and style that suits a minibreak.

StandardX

Exterior of the StandardX in Fitzroy
Fitzroy’s StandardX hotel delivers an achingly cool winter city stay. (Credit: Supplied)

You’ll find this achingly cool hotel in the unshakeably hip Fitzroy. It’s close to plenty on foot or with an easy tram ride to the city’s hot tickets. Rooms are very Melbourne-coded with artful style that’s approachable. There’s a rooftop with a fireplace, all-day eatery Bistro X and an ultra-slick lobby lounge.

Hannah St

Explorer Room at Hannah St Hotel in Melbourne
The new premium hotel delivers an authentic Melbourne experience. (Credit: Supplied)

Levelling up the design-led luxe, this premium hotel is everything Melbourne does so well. It slots beautifully into a weekender with boutique rooms, a lap pool with city views, and five hospitality venues that tightrope timelessness and contemporary trends elegantly. It’s even been called, ‘a love letter to the city’.

Want to know where else to go near Melbourne in winter?

Have time for a country or coastal jaunt? Melbourne knows how to stoke the fire for cosy stays that don’t take you too far off-course. For wellness, wines and wonderful food, exit to the Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Daylesford and Healesville – all less than two hours away. For coastal extensions, Portsea, Sorrento, Geelong and Port Arlington are accessed within one-and-a-half hours from the city. All very doable day trips, but better to settle in and add an extra day.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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The road trips and trails you need to experience in Victoria now

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Wind through fern tunnels, stop for a wine in a tram bar, or chase giant murals across the wheatbelt. These drives and rides prove Victoria’s best stories are found off the straight and narrow. 

    There’s something unmistakably Australian about a road trip: car packed, playlist on, landscapes shifting. Travelling down the highway toward Healesville, in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, the mountains rise, flanking me on both sides. I feel its embrace, a silent invitation to explore what lies beyond.  

    Moss-covered embankments rise on either side, and towering mountain ash trees form a green tunnel overhead. Road signs warn of wombats and cyclists but with giant ferns lining the roadside, the landscape feels prehistoric, as if a dinosaur might suddenly emerge. This, the Black Spur, is one of my favourite road trips. 

    The Black Spur 

    The Black Spur drive
    Through the forested canopy of The Black Spur drive that winds from Healesville to Narbethong. (Image: Neisha Breen)

    Location: Yarra Ranges
    Duration: 30 kilometres / 30 minutes 

    The Black Spur is short compared to other Victorian road trips, just 30 kilometres, stretching from Healesville to Narbethong. But what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in scenery. Just outside Healesville, Maroondah Dam offers bushwalks and scenic views. However, if pressed for time, Selover’s Lookout is an easy roadside stop offering uninterrupted views of the dam.  

    In Narbethong, close to the Marysville’s snowfield, is the Black Spur Inn, a charming double-storey brick hotel that’s been welcoming travellers since 1863. Here, diners cosy up by the roaring fire or gaze through the floor-to-ceiling windows, imagining horse-drawn coaches carrying hopeful gold seekers to the eastern goldfields.   

    Victoria’s Silo Art Trail 

    Silo Art Trail
    The Silo Art Trail in the Wimmera Mallee region. (Image: Visit Victoria/Anne Morely)

    Location: Various towns across the Wimmera Mallee region
    Duration: More than 200 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days  

    What began as a way to draw travellers back into town bypassed by highways – places such as Nullawil, Sea Lake and Patchewollock – has grown into a celebrated outdoor art movement. The Silo Art Trail now includes 23 silos, each transformed with large-scale mural portraits sharing local stories, celebrating community heroes, Indigenous history, farming life, or regional identity.  

    The Nullawil silo, for example, is a portrait of a local farmer in a chequered flannelette shirt alongside his loyal kelpie, painted by artist Sam Bates (AKA Smug). And the silos at Albacutya in the Grampians, painted by artist Kitt Bennett, depict her joyful memories of growing up in the countryside. Many of the murals sit right in the heart of small towns, such as Rochester and St Arnaud, making them perfect spots to pause for a country pub meal or something sweet from a local bakery.   

    Metung to Mallacoota  

    Gippsland lakes
    Gippsland Lakes. (Image: Visit Victoria/Josie Withers)

    Location: Gippsland
    Duration: Approximately 220 kilometres / 4 hours  

    The Gippsland Lakes are a much-loved holiday spot in Victoria, but road-tripping further east reveals much more. Begin in Metung and time your visit with the monthly farmers’ market, or simply linger over lunch on the lawn of the Metung Hotel. Twenty minutes away is Lakes Entrance, where you can watch the fishing boats return with their catch. 

    Lakes Entrance
    Lakes Entrance. (Image: Visit Victoria/Iluminaire Pictures)

    Continue to Marlo, where the Snowy River spills into the sea, and Cape Conran for its many beaches and walks. If needing to stretch your legs, Croajingolong National Park is home to the historic Point Hicks Lighthouse and the Wilderness Coast Walk. Birdwatching and rainforest trails near Bemm River are worth a pit stop before arriving in Mallacoota, where the forest meets the sea. 

    Great Ocean Road 

    12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road
    The 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

    Location: South-west Victoria, from Torquay to Allansford
    Duration: Approximately 250 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days  

    Victoria’s most famous road trip delivers it all: world-class surf breaks, rainforest walks, clifftop lookouts and wildlife encounters. The journey begins in Torquay, the state’s surf capital, then hugs the coast past Anglesea and Lorne to Apollo Bay, before curving inland through the lush rainforest of the Otways. Stop at Cape Otway Lightstation or take to the treetops at Otway Fly.  

    Between Cape Otway and Port Campbell lies the most photographed stretch – seven of the Twelve Apostles still standing, alongside the golden cliffs of Loch Ard Gorge. Further west, Warrnambool is a winter whale-watching hotspot, before the road winds to Port Fairy, a charming fishing village of whalers’ cottages, walking trails and offshore seal colonies further along the coast. 

    Bellarine Taste Trail 

    Terindah Estate
    Terindah Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Location: Bellarine Peninsula
    Duration: Approximately 80 kilometres / 2–3 hours  

    The Bellarine Taste Trail is a feast for the senses, winding through coastal towns, past boutique wineries and artisan producers. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure style trail – simply grab a map and build your own delicious journey.  

    You might wander historic, seafront Queenscliff, sip wine in a converted tram bar at Terindah Estate, sample a locally distilled whisky at The Whiskery in Drydale or pick up a jar of honey at Wattle Grove in Wallington. Seafood lovers can head to Portarlington, famous for its mussels. Eat them fresh at local restaurants or head out on the water with Portarlington Mussel Tours. 

    O’Keefe Rail Trail – Bendigo to Heathcote 

    Pink Cliffs Reserve
    Pink Cliffs Reserve in Heathcote can be seen on the O’Keefe Rail Trail. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Location: Central Victoria
    Duration: Approximately 50 kilometres / 4 hours cycling 

    Travellers first journeyed between Heathcote and Bendigo in 1888, when the railway line was built to link the towns. Trains stopped running in 1956, but today the route has a new life as the O’Keefe Rail Trail. The path is mostly level for easy riding, and along the way you’ll cycle past bushland, waterways and reserves. There are plenty of places to picnic, birdwatch, and if you’re lucky, spot a platypus.  

    The trail is well supported with water stations, bike repair points, shelters, and signage. Axedale makes a great halfway stop, with the pretty Campaspe River Reserve for a rest and local cafes for refuelling. Begin in Heathcote, known for its wineries and cafes, or in Bendigo, which is easily reached by train from Melbourne/Naarm. Shorter sections, such as Heathcote to Axedale, are also popular. 

    Goldfields Track – Ballarat to Bendigo 

    Location: Central Victoria
    Duration: Approximately 210 kilometres / 2–3 days cycling  

    The Goldfields Track traces a route once so rich in gold it made Melbourne one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Starting at Mt Buninyong, south of Ballarat, the trail leads mountain cyclists and walkers north through Creswick, Daylesford and Castlemaine before finishing in Bendigo. Along the way, you’ll encounter granite outcrops, eucalypt forests, rolling farmland and remnants of the region’s mining past.  

    As it passes through the lands of the Dja Dja Wurrung and Wadawurrung people, the track shares gold rush history and Indigenous stories brought to life by interpretive signs. Walk or ride the full trail or choose from one of its three distinct sections. With cosy stays, cafes and pubs, it’s easy to mix wilderness with comfort.