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This is the best Aussie city to visit in winter – it’s even better than Hobart

Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ray Reyes

Come winter, Melbourne doesn’t hibernate – it elevates. Here’s how to make the most of this city’s cool-weather culture.

Melbourne wins winter

Look, many of our cities are good contenders for a winter escape. Hobart turns hot when the weather turns cold – with our southernmost city laying on the art, festivals and embracing hand-knitted beanies paired with weather-resistant jackets worthy of Everest’s Dead Zone.

Canberra’s enviable proximity to snowfields has an undeniable pull for quick, city-to-snow transitions. Meanwhile, “Winter?" says Darwin and Broome. Nah, we don’t do that. What about just hot and dry, instead of hot and wet? Also great, if your chills are multiplying.

And while Sydney has my heart, its needy dependence on sunshine and mild temperatures, is frankly, a bit embarrassing. Nobody knows what to do in Sydney when the mercury sinks below 16°C. Every year, it’s as if the arrival of winter is a complete and utter surprise.

Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club
Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club. (Credit: MAMAS Dining Group)

But Melbourne? Melbourne never lets a bit of weather get in the way of a good time. It’s a cultural thing as much as it’s stitched into the city’s built-environment and the population’s psyche. Conditions on Collins Street can mirror the Arctic tundra and Melburnians will just get on. Sure, life will angle toward the outdoors when the weather suits, but temperate days are a nice-to-have, not a requirement for living merrily.

Street art at Swan St in Richmond
Street art in Richmond awaits those willing to explore outside in the winter. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Jesse Hisco)

So, we do declare, hands-down (but with Hobart hot on its heels – also the location of one of my most memorable trips), Melbourne wins winter. It’s the ideal mid-year minibreak because there’s so much to do. With everything from art exhibitions and events to cosy fireside pubs, ultra-cool listening bars, design-led hotels and adorable, wine-adjacent towns waiting just beyond the city limits, there is something to delight at every intersection of your interests. It’s a place to relish winter, not just hibernate through it. So if you’re looking for a mid-winter reset, don’t think twice about booking that sale flight to the Victorian capital.

Melbourne restaurants you need to visit in winter

Melbourne is a food-loving city. Maybe it even has more gourmands per capita than any other Aussie city. We’ll never know for sure (so relax, Adelaide, we see you, too). But we can be sure that there is no shortage of great restaurants, from hip new places to long-lived icons on the city’s dining scene. Add these to your itinerary.

Frenchie

Two people dining at Frenchie in Melbourne
Frenchie is a laneway hit that will satisfy on even the coldest evening. (Credit: Griffin Simm)

Bucking all trends of French fare being high-and-mighty fine-dining, this laneway hit is all nouveau bistro style with rambunctious energy and a truly disruptive ‘everything $14’ classic menu. It takes walk-ins and is open for lunch and dinner until midnight – because the party doesn’t stop just because it’s a bit chilly.

France-Soir

From new a Frenchie to an old classic, France-Soir is a Melbourne institution that has been servicing the city with well-put-together dishes of steak tartare and bouef bourguignon for 40 years. It’s a settle-in-er, so take your time and linger over a post-dinner cognac.

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Spaghetti Club

Interiors of Spaghetti Club in Melbourne
Nab a cosy booth at Spaghetti Club and enjoy the carb-heavy menu with wine. (Credit: Salt House)

Melbourne knows Italian and this easy-going trattoria in Richmond with a proud nonna-core culture proves the point. It’s all good pasta, home-style vibes and affable service with Sicilian roots.

Melbourne’s listening bars are the perfect winter activity

Vinyl culture is strong in Melbourne and the city has the record (quite literally) of having more record stores per capita than any other city in the world. Yes, the world. So it tracks that listening bars are a thing here.

Bar Selecta

This Hawthorne listening bar has taken directly from the Tokyo playbook with dim-lit moods and vinyl grooves. There are well-mixed cocktails, lots of sake, BYO vinyl Sundays and other themed nights.

Waxflower

A bit of everything, Waxflower is a very Melbourne café by day, transforming into a Euro-style wine bar cross Japanese listening bar in the evening. Slide in here for lunch to aperitivo and evening listening sessions.

Does Melbourne offer winter events? You bet!

Melbourne keeps the events rolling out through the calendar year, from regular exhibitions at galleries across the city to dedicated winter events. You’ll have to be strategic about what you see, as there’s too much on to cram it all into one short break.

Winter Night Market

Apple cider on fire at Queen Victoria Winter Night Market
The winter night market at Queen Victoria Markets turns up the heat. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ewen Bell)

Cold nights are all part of the fun in Melbourne and the beloved Queen Victoria Market leans in through the winter months by staying open late every Wednesday night. There’s festoon lights, fire pits, warming drinks and, of course, plenty of morsels and stalls to sample.

Melbourne winter masterpieces at the NGV

A woman visiting the NGV Cartier exhibit
The NGV is never short on incredible exhibits. (Credit: Sean Fennessy)

The NGV is not short on engrossing and exclusive exhibitions. This winter, the gallery is hosting a 300-piece Cartier exhibition from 12 June to 4 October. All those dazzling gemstones are sure to put the shine in a winter’s day.

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Lightscape

Lightscape Royal Botanic Garden Melbourne
Lightscape illuminates the Royal Botanic Gardens of an evening each winter. (Credit: Supplied)

Illuminating the Royal Botanic Gardens until 2 August, Lightscape is an outdoor exhibition of luminous art installations. It’s an after-dark experience that fits perfectly with a cold, winter’s night.

Where to stay in Melbourne during winter?

Melbourne is boutique-forward when it comes to accommodation, but it also spreads out across the spectrum, whether you’re looking for five-star-fancy or the edgy elegance of the W, you’ll find it all close the city’s best entertainment – so you can rug up and walk out. Here, we’re calling out these two for proximity and style that suits a minibreak.

StandardX

Exterior of the StandardX in Fitzroy
Fitzroy’s StandardX hotel delivers an achingly cool winter city stay. (Credit: Supplied)

You’ll find this achingly cool hotel in the unshakeably hip Fitzroy. It’s close to plenty on foot or with an easy tram ride to the city’s hot tickets. Rooms are very Melbourne-coded with artful style that’s approachable. There’s a rooftop with a fireplace, all-day eatery Bistro X and an ultra-slick lobby lounge.

Hannah St

Explorer Room at Hannah St Hotel in Melbourne
The new premium hotel delivers an authentic Melbourne experience. (Credit: Supplied)

Levelling up the design-led luxe, this premium hotel is everything Melbourne does so well. It slots beautifully into a weekender with boutique rooms, a lap pool with city views, and five hospitality venues that tightrope timelessness and contemporary trends elegantly. It’s even been called, ‘a love letter to the city’.

Want to know where else to go near Melbourne in winter?

Have time for a country or coastal jaunt? Melbourne knows how to stoke the fire for cosy stays that don’t take you too far off-course. For wellness, wines and wonderful food, exit to the Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Daylesford and Healesville – all less than two hours away. For coastal extensions, Portsea, Sorrento, Geelong and Port Arlington are accessed within one-and-a-half hours from the city. All very doable day trips, but better to settle in and add an extra day.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach, the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road. Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park, which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae, helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream, Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.