19 memorable things to do in St Kilda

hero media
St Kilda is one of Melbourne’s most historic and diverse suburbs, offering a great variety of things to do beyond just soaking up the time-honoured charm of St Kilda Beach.

As the locals say: ‘If you think you’ve seen everything, you haven’t been to St Kilda’. For more than 170 years through ups and downs, surges and resurgences the ‘grand dame’ of Melbourne is as sassy and brimming with personality as ever. Anyone looking for things to do in St Kilda doesn’t have to look far.

It’s the type of place where everyone comes, and anything goes. From backpackers to money baggers, artists to artistes, famous to the infamous, it’s all here in a bubbling pot of culture and creativity.

The evolution of St Kilda

Grand Victorian mansions juxtapose with hole-in-the-wall apartments, tree-lined boulevards with narrow cobbled alleyways set against the lapping waters of Port Phillip Bay less than seven kilometres from the CBD.

Before European occupation, St Kilda was known as Euro-Yroke to the Yalukit Willam clan (meaning ‘river home’ or ‘people of the river’) of the Boon Wurrung people.

The name of St Kilda came from the British ship, the Lady of St Kilda, which historians believe was named in honour of the other St Kilda – an archipelago way off the coast of Scotland.

Transformed from a cargo ship into a cruiser, the ship was anchored in Port Phillip Bay in 1841 ready to be sold. JB Were, who had an interest in buying the vessel, described the anchor point as a ‘place for a picnic’, and the name St Kilda stuck.

From small beginnings, as building allotments were released, and the original sandy track from Melbourne was transformed into a railway line, St Kilda boomed.

By the turn of the 20th century, it was considered one of the fashionable places to be, but by 1932 the Depression hit hard and with it came prostitution and crime.

After World War II, St Kilda was described in the 1946 Australian Blue Book as ‘the Coney Island of Australia, a playground for both day and night for Melbourne’s citizens and visitors’.

Too true. The only problem is, it’s nigh impossible to squeeze it all into a weekend, so here are a few not-to-be-missed local haunts to get you started.

1. Go for a dip at St Kilda Beach

The suburb’s most definitive feature is the iconic St Kilda Beach. With a very active foreshore, locals and visitors make a beeline straight to those golden sands once the sun makes its appearance and the swimming conditions of Port Phillip Bay settle.

St Kilda Beach on a sunny day
Laze on the golden sands of St Kilda Beach. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Not to say Port Phillip Bay is as choppy as what you’d find down on Great Ocean Road. This incredibly tranquil beach is almost always perfect for a nice, relaxed dip in the bay. Though conditions are generally well varied, and offer a great variety of things to do for those keen on watersports like surfing, SUPing and wind sailing.

St Kilda Beach and the city skyline
Head to St Kilda Beach for a refreshing dip. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The best day to go to St Kilda Beach is typically on Sunday when the historic St Kilda Esplanade Markets set up shop and the place is full of life.

St Kilda Beach filled with people in summer
Find the perfect spot among the crowds. (Image: Visit Victoria)

2. See some wildlife at St Kilda Pier

Promenading the kilometre-long St Kilda pier  is about as ‘Melbourne’ as it gets. Fortunately, the historic kiosk at the end of the pier was rebuilt to the original Victorian plans after being destroyed by fire in 2003.

the walkway along St Kilda Pier
Go for a leisurely walk along St Kilda Pier. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The cafe is great for soaking up views of Melbourne, but there’s more. Like many things in St Kilda, a surprise beckons beyond the kiosk: penguins. Hundreds of them. Come dusk the aptly named little penguins waddle into their burrows between the rocks. A pathway and small jetty along the breakwater make for easy (and free) viewing.

Volunteers from Earthcare St Kilda are on hand and if you’re lucky you might catch them doing their regular penguin health checks.

St Kilda Pier is currently under redevelopment and the penguin viewing area, St Kilda Breakwater, and St Kilda Pier Kiosk are closed. Check the Parks Victoria website for updates .

St Kilda Pier at sunset
Arrive at dusk for the chance to spot little penguins. (Image: Visit Victoria)

3. Have a meal at Donovan’s

St Kilda has several fine-dining institutions, including Stokehouse and Cafe Di Stasio. But there’s nothing quite like Donovans .

Pitched as a little house on the beach, this homely restaurant has been a classic for over two decades and is constantly firing on all cylinders with top-shelf produce and simple cooking.

Family photos and knick-knacks help make dinner at Donovan’s feel like an actual dinner party. Although the distinctive spaces have a certain glow about them that kicks things up a notch and makes no question about the kitchen’s culinary chops.

4. Sink some sundowners at Captain Baxter

Captain Baxter  boasts one of the best rooftop bars in Melbourne. It’s all stripey blue and white up here, reflecting the nearby sands as buckets of cocktails complement sea-soaked vistas.

The food takes the obvious route of fresh seafood, so you’ll find many locals end up here on a late Sunday afternoon after browsing the markets and lapping up the leisurely pace of Melbourne’s prettiest suburb.

5. Catch some live music at The Espy

There’s always something happening at The Espy . There’s a whopping 12 bars, three stages and two restaurants across six levels of this grand bayside treasure. The building, which dates back to 1878, is one of Australia’s most recognisable so local bands will make an effort to lift their game when they play here.

The Espy Hotel Esplanade, St Kilda
Enjoy live entertainment at The Espy. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Whether it’s an established act or a hungry up-and-comer, it’s pretty much a guarantee that catching a show across any of The Espy’s stages is going to hit hard.

A small round stage at the base of The Espy’s impressive staircase is better for those more intimate acoustic acts, while The Gershwin Room is more raucous and is usually a much more eclectic affair. The basement bar serves as a great middle ground as well, so there are plenty of options for those who are looking for live music in Melbourne.

6. Re-live your childhood at Luna Park

Luna Park St Kilda  opened in 1912 and has remained the state’s most iconic theme park since. It’s just $20 for an entry ticket and a free complimentary ride, or $55 per person for unlimited rides for anyone over the age of 13.

the Luna Park in St Kilda
Take a trip down memory lane at Luna Park. (Image: Craig Sillitoe Photography)

Even if you don’t have some little ones in tow, spending a few hours hopping around the various thrill rides, rollercoasters and standard carnival games is either a great way to decompress, or it could make for a fun date.

an aerial view of Luna Park in St Kilda with city skyline and balloons
Luna Park has remained the state’s most iconic theme park. (Image: Visit Victoria)

7. Discover a new favourite drop at Little Prince Wine

While there are a few wine bars dotted around the backstreets of St Kilda, few are as well known as Little Prince Wine . Although overshadowed by its Art Deco older sibling, Prince Hotel, this charming Euro-inspired watering hole is famous throughout Melbourne for its resourceful, wide-ranging list of local and imported drops.

Head sommelier Lauren Rospars runs the show with the assistance of around 4,000 bottles that range from world-class favourites to hard-won rarities. Simple snacks are available to experiment with, but the focus is always on the grace of grapes, with around three new wines available to try by the glass each day, while everyone else is available by the bottle.

8. Work through cocktails at Misery Guts

“I didn’t have a plan, just a vibe," says Jules Pleadin, owner of the unforgettably named Misery Guts  bar.

“Locals were crying out for somewhere to hang." Hang they do and miserable they are not.

Full of curios (he ran out of space in his home), such as old cinema chairs bearing the painted slogan ‘Misery loves company’, a piano at the ready for tinkling, and cosy lounges around an open fire, this former bank (complete with vault) hums with a mellow atmosphere.

The cocktails are classic, Aussie beers are on tap and the wine list is bright and breezy.

9. Shop at St Kilda Esplanade Market

A bountiful collection of arts, crafts, and hard-won bargains.

The historic St Kilda Esplanade Market  is where some of Melbourne’s best makers gather just by the beach to shop around their wares and showcase new and unique pieces for those who place great value on their style.

the stalls along St Kilda Esplanade Market
Hunt for treasures at St Kilda Esplanade Market. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Since 1970, the maker’s market has been thriving every Sunday from 10am, taking over the Upper Esplanade with a big scope of discovery and an irresistibly social vibe.

10. Catch a show at Palais Theatre

With an expertly curated program packed with some of the best international and local performers, the historic Palais Theatre  is one of Australia’s best live music venues.

As the home of the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, the ornate venue is always packed to the brim with laughter during the silly season. Live music from big names like Dua Lipa, The Wombats and Elvis Costello have kept the place pumping over the past few years, and there’s almost always something to look forward to on the theatre’s busy event schedule.

Palais Theatre in St Kilda
Catch the annual Melbourne International Comedy Festival at Palais Theatre. (Image: Visit Victoria)

11. Take a jump at Skydive Melbourne

Ready to skydive over the beach? The most thrilling thing you can do in St Kilda is hit up the fine folk at Skydive Melbourne  for some of their well-priced packages. Op for a $509 per person tandem skydive, leaping from 15,000 feet in the air over the eternally vintage scene of St Kilda’s esplanade.

Skydive Melbourne above Port Phillip Bay
Get 360-degree views of Port Phillip Bay.

Of course, St Kilda isn’t the only thing that’s going to be in that bird’s eye of yours. Port Phillip Bay’s enormity is undeniable when you’re up this high, set against Melbourne’s sky-scraping CBD while you’re flying pretty with professional support and state-of-the-art parachutes which are set to auto-engage at preset altitudes.

two skydivers on top of Port Phillip Bay
Sign up with Skydive Melbourne for the ultimate free-fall experience.

12. Find some treasure at Scout House

Seek and you will find it at Scout House . Scouring vintage goods from all corners of the globe, local resident Orlando Mesiti brings an eclectic collection of quirky homewares and furniture to his classy shop on the Paris end of Fitzroy Street.

Think French street signs and Cire Trudon candles. Various premium goods sit alongside vintage knick-knacks, presenting a greatly varied collection that’s guaranteed to hold something for everyone.

And don’t worry if you can’t resist one of Scout’s custom-built signature beds – they deliver Australia-wide.

13. Relax at St Kilda Sea Baths

You don’t need to travel down to Mornington Peninsula to soak in an extraordinary health and leisure facility. Just take the short walk from the beach to St Kilda Sea Baths  and give yourself over to a comprehensive collection of pools, spas and steam rooms.

the St Kilda Sea Baths
Hop between the collection of pools, spas and steam rooms at St Kilda Sea Baths.

The water at St Kilda Sea Baths arrives directly from the sea and is heated in a 25-metre lap pool. When the little ones aren’t taking swimming lessons, this lap pool is one of the best in Melbourne with incredible views over St Kilda Beach. You also have a hydrotherapy spa pool, a unisex aromatherapy steam room and a lounge area that further maximises those million-dollar views of Port Phillip Bay.

Adults can enter for just $15 so there’s little reason not to wrap yourself in all the genuine relaxation these historic sea baths have to offer.

the indoor pool at St Kilda Sea Baths
Swim a few laps in the indoor pool.

14. Line up beers at The Local Taphouse

Melbourne’s famously diverse and experimental craft beer scene means there are plenty of spots dotted around town for beer enthusiasts. But few are as representative of the quality and consistency of Melbourne beer as The Local Taphouse .

The team behind this popular venue knows that to truly lift the local beer scene, you need to be obsessive about the craft. As such, there’s a sense of dynamism as the many tapped beers are rotated frequently to showcase the best breweries in Melbourne, as well as a nod to wider Australia and a few cheeky imports.

15. Use your wits at St Kilda Escape Room

From Alice In Wonderland to Resident Evil, Rush Escape Room  in St Kilda is run by a bunch of evidently clever folk who have put together very intelligent, witty puzzles so groups of mates can work together to, well, escape.

a group of friends working together to escape The Rush Escape Room in St Kilda
Put your combined problem-solving skills to the test in the Rush Escape Room.

It’s widely considered one of the best escape rooms in Melbourne for this reason. Ingenuity and less handholding mean generally tricky puzzles sandwiched in with some approachable ones. That’s the groundwork for some genuine crew bonding.

a woman inside The Rush Escape Room in St Kilda
Solve the challenge and do some serious bonding while you’re at it.

16. Catch a ride on St Kilda Ferry

The Coastal Flyer  only takes about 20 minutes as it scurries between St Kilda and Williamstown in Melbourne’s west. An adult ticket will set you back $20, but it’s worth the scenic run as the ferry skirts Melbourne’s most historic suburbs and offers an incredible view that many don’t often associate with Australia’s capital of cool.

The return trip is just as epic – slowly approaching St Kilda Pier and offering a breezy picture of one of Melbourne’s most timeless suburbs.

17. Catch a film at the Astor Theatre

The historic Astor Theatre  opened in 1936 and has remained one of Melbourne’s most prized treasures ever since. The uncommon single-screen theatre is a time capsule of endless charm, blending a dazzlingly modern aesthetic with the grand foyer’s rich heritage details.

No self-respecting Melburnian would pass up an opportunity to catch an art-house film at The Astor, so check the schedule and plan accordingly.

18. Find a bargain at Acland Street

In addition to hosting a monthly Farmer’s Market, Acland Street Village  is the pulsing heart of St Kilda’s breezy lifestyle.

The packed shopping street is a symbol of Melbourne’s eccentricity in that it hosts so many wildly different stores, from modern and vintage fashion to homewares and furniture.

shops and cafes on Acland Street, St Kilda
Acland Street is lined with an eclectic collection of shops and cafes. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There’s little doubt you’ll find a good deal while roaming around this busy street. Some highlights include Dot & Herbey Boutique, Eclectico and Ghanda Clothing.

tram passes cafes and diners on Acland Street, St Kilda
Take a tram ride to Acland Street, St Kilda. (Image: Visit Victoria)

19. Pair wine with cheese at Milk The Cow

At around ‘milking time’ – that’s 4pm not 4am – you’ll find this European-esque fromagerie absolutely jumping (but not with cows over the moon).

Indulging in a flight of wine and cheese is the St Kilda way of topping off a great day or the start of a big night.

the exterior of Milk the Cow, Lygon Street, Carlton, Melbourne
Stop by Milk the Cow on Lygon Street. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Open until late, there are more than 70 cheeses at Milk The Cow , a wine list as thick as an encyclopaedia and if wine isn’t your thing, choose from flights of cider, beer, saké, whisky or cognac.

the cheese display at Milk the Cow, Lygon Street, Carlton, Melbourne
Don’t pass up the chance to try assorted cheeses at Milk the Cow. (Image: Visit Victoria)
This article was originally written by Jocelyn Pride and updated by Chris Singh
hero media

Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat
Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.