St Kilda is one of Melbourne’s most historic and diverse suburbs, offering a great variety of things to do beyond just soaking up the time-honoured charm of St Kilda Beach.
As the locals say: ‘If you think you’ve seen everything, you haven’t been to St Kilda’. For more than 170 years through ups and downs, surges and resurgences the ‘grand dame’ of Melbourne is as sassy and brimming with personality as ever. Anyone looking for things to do in St Kilda doesn’t have to look far.
It’s the type of place where everyone comes, and anything goes. From backpackers to money baggers, artists to artistes, famous to the infamous, it’s all here in a bubbling pot of culture and creativity.
The evolution of St Kilda
Grand Victorian mansions juxtapose with hole-in-the-wall apartments, tree-lined boulevards with narrow cobbled alleyways set against the lapping waters of Port Phillip Bay less than seven kilometres from the CBD.
Before European occupation, St Kilda was known as Euro-Yroke to the Yalukit Willam clan (meaning ‘river home’ or ‘people of the river’) of the Boon Wurrung people.
The name of St Kilda came from the British ship, the Lady of St Kilda, which historians believe was named in honour of the other St Kilda – an archipelago way off the coast of Scotland.
Transformed from a cargo ship into a cruiser, the ship was anchored in Port Phillip Bay in 1841 ready to be sold. JB Were, who had an interest in buying the vessel, described the anchor point as a ‘place for a picnic’, and the name St Kilda stuck.
From small beginnings, as building allotments were released, and the original sandy track from Melbourne was transformed into a railway line, St Kilda boomed.
By the turn of the 20th century, it was considered one of the fashionable places to be, but by 1932 the Depression hit hard and with it came prostitution and crime.
After World War II, St Kilda was described in the 1946 Australian Blue Book as ‘the Coney Island of Australia, a playground for both day and night for Melbourne’s citizens and visitors’.
Too true. The only problem is, it’s nigh impossible to squeeze it all into a weekend, so here are a few not-to-be-missed local haunts to get you started.
1. Go for a dip at St Kilda Beach
The suburb’s most definitive feature is the iconic St Kilda Beach. With a very active foreshore, locals and visitors make a beeline straight to those golden sands once the sun makes its appearance and the swimming conditions of Port Phillip Bay settle.
Not to say Port Phillip Bay is as choppy as what you’d find down on Great Ocean Road. This incredibly tranquil beach is almost always perfect for a nice, relaxed dip in the bay. Though conditions are generally well varied, and offer a great variety of things to do for those keen on watersports like surfing, SUPing and wind sailing.
The best day to go to St Kilda Beach is typically on Sunday when the historic St Kilda Esplanade Markets set up shop and the place is full of life.
2. See some wildlife at St Kilda Pier
Promenading the kilometre-long St Kilda pier is about as ‘Melbourne’ as it gets. Fortunately, the historic kiosk at the end of the pier was rebuilt to the original Victorian plans after being destroyed by fire in 2003.
The cafe is great for soaking up views of Melbourne, but there’s more. Like many things in St Kilda, a surprise beckons beyond the kiosk: penguins. Hundreds of them. Come dusk the aptly named little penguins waddle into their burrows between the rocks. A pathway and small jetty along the breakwater make for easy (and free) viewing.
Volunteers from Earthcare St Kilda are on hand and if you’re lucky you might catch them doing their regular penguin health checks.
St Kilda Pier is currently under redevelopment and the penguin viewing area, St Kilda Breakwater, and St Kilda Pier Kiosk are closed. Check the Parks Victoria website for updates .
3. Have a meal at Donovan’s
St Kilda has several fine-dining institutions, including Stokehouse and Cafe Di Stasio. But there’s nothing quite like Donovans .
Pitched as a little house on the beach, this homely restaurant has been a classic for over two decades and is constantly firing on all cylinders with top-shelf produce and simple cooking.
Family photos and knick-knacks help make dinner at Donovan’s feel like an actual dinner party. Although the distinctive spaces have a certain glow about them that kicks things up a notch and makes no question about the kitchen’s culinary chops.
4. Sink some sundowners at Captain Baxter
Captain Baxter boasts one of the best rooftop bars in Melbourne. It’s all stripey blue and white up here, reflecting the nearby sands as buckets of cocktails complement sea-soaked vistas.
The food takes the obvious route of fresh seafood, so you’ll find many locals end up here on a late Sunday afternoon after browsing the markets and lapping up the leisurely pace of Melbourne’s prettiest suburb.
5. Catch some live music at The Espy
There’s always something happening at The Espy . There’s a whopping 12 bars, three stages and two restaurants across six levels of this grand bayside treasure. The building, which dates back to 1878, is one of Australia’s most recognisable so local bands will make an effort to lift their game when they play here.
Whether it’s an established act or a hungry up-and-comer, it’s pretty much a guarantee that catching a show across any of The Espy’s stages is going to hit hard.
A small round stage at the base of The Espy’s impressive staircase is better for those more intimate acoustic acts, while The Gershwin Room is more raucous and is usually a much more eclectic affair. The basement bar serves as a great middle ground as well, so there are plenty of options for those who are looking for live music in Melbourne.
6. Re-live your childhood at Luna Park
Luna Park St Kilda opened in 1912 and has remained the state’s most iconic theme park since. It’s just $20 for an entry ticket and a free complimentary ride, or $55 per person for unlimited rides for anyone over the age of 13.
Even if you don’t have some little ones in tow, spending a few hours hopping around the various thrill rides, rollercoasters and standard carnival games is either a great way to decompress, or it could make for a fun date.
7. Discover a new favourite drop at Little Prince Wine
While there are a few wine bars dotted around the backstreets of St Kilda, few are as well known as Little Prince Wine . Although overshadowed by its Art Deco older sibling, Prince Hotel, this charming Euro-inspired watering hole is famous throughout Melbourne for its resourceful, wide-ranging list of local and imported drops.
Head sommelier Lauren Rospars runs the show with the assistance of around 4,000 bottles that range from world-class favourites to hard-won rarities. Simple snacks are available to experiment with, but the focus is always on the grace of grapes, with around three new wines available to try by the glass each day, while everyone else is available by the bottle.
8. Work through cocktails at Misery Guts
“I didn’t have a plan, just a vibe," says Jules Pleadin, owner of the unforgettably named Misery Guts bar.
“Locals were crying out for somewhere to hang." Hang they do and miserable they are not.
Full of curios (he ran out of space in his home), such as old cinema chairs bearing the painted slogan ‘Misery loves company’, a piano at the ready for tinkling, and cosy lounges around an open fire, this former bank (complete with vault) hums with a mellow atmosphere.
The cocktails are classic, Aussie beers are on tap and the wine list is bright and breezy.
9. Shop at St Kilda Esplanade Market
A bountiful collection of arts, crafts, and hard-won bargains.
The historic St Kilda Esplanade Market is where some of Melbourne’s best makers gather just by the beach to shop around their wares and showcase new and unique pieces for those who place great value on their style.
Since 1970, the maker’s market has been thriving every Sunday from 10am, taking over the Upper Esplanade with a big scope of discovery and an irresistibly social vibe.
10. Catch a show at Palais Theatre
With an expertly curated program packed with some of the best international and local performers, the historic Palais Theatre is one of Australia’s best live music venues.
As the home of the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, the ornate venue is always packed to the brim with laughter during the silly season. Live music from big names like Dua Lipa, The Wombats and Elvis Costello have kept the place pumping over the past few years, and there’s almost always something to look forward to on the theatre’s busy event schedule.
11. Take a jump at Skydive Melbourne
Ready to skydive over the beach? The most thrilling thing you can do in St Kilda is hit up the fine folk at Skydive Melbourne for some of their well-priced packages. Op for a $509 per person tandem skydive, leaping from 15,000 feet in the air over the eternally vintage scene of St Kilda’s esplanade.
Of course, St Kilda isn’t the only thing that’s going to be in that bird’s eye of yours. Port Phillip Bay’s enormity is undeniable when you’re up this high, set against Melbourne’s sky-scraping CBD while you’re flying pretty with professional support and state-of-the-art parachutes which are set to auto-engage at preset altitudes.
12. Find some treasure at Scout House
Seek and you will find it at Scout House . Scouring vintage goods from all corners of the globe, local resident Orlando Mesiti brings an eclectic collection of quirky homewares and furniture to his classy shop on the Paris end of Fitzroy Street.
Think French street signs and Cire Trudon candles. Various premium goods sit alongside vintage knick-knacks, presenting a greatly varied collection that’s guaranteed to hold something for everyone.
And don’t worry if you can’t resist one of Scout’s custom-built signature beds – they deliver Australia-wide.
13. Relax at St Kilda Sea Baths
You don’t need to travel down to Mornington Peninsula to soak in an extraordinary health and leisure facility. Just take the short walk from the beach to St Kilda Sea Baths and give yourself over to a comprehensive collection of pools, spas and steam rooms.
The water at St Kilda Sea Baths arrives directly from the sea and is heated in a 25-metre lap pool. When the little ones aren’t taking swimming lessons, this lap pool is one of the best in Melbourne with incredible views over St Kilda Beach. You also have a hydrotherapy spa pool, a unisex aromatherapy steam room and a lounge area that further maximises those million-dollar views of Port Phillip Bay.
Adults can enter for just $15 so there’s little reason not to wrap yourself in all the genuine relaxation these historic sea baths have to offer.
14. Line up beers at The Local Taphouse
Melbourne’s famously diverse and experimental craft beer scene means there are plenty of spots dotted around town for beer enthusiasts. But few are as representative of the quality and consistency of Melbourne beer as The Local Taphouse .
The team behind this popular venue knows that to truly lift the local beer scene, you need to be obsessive about the craft. As such, there’s a sense of dynamism as the many tapped beers are rotated frequently to showcase the best breweries in Melbourne, as well as a nod to wider Australia and a few cheeky imports.
15. Use your wits at St Kilda Escape Room
From Alice In Wonderland to Resident Evil, Rush Escape Room in St Kilda is run by a bunch of evidently clever folk who have put together very intelligent, witty puzzles so groups of mates can work together to, well, escape.
It’s widely considered one of the best escape rooms in Melbourne for this reason. Ingenuity and less handholding mean generally tricky puzzles sandwiched in with some approachable ones. That’s the groundwork for some genuine crew bonding.
16. Catch a ride on St Kilda Ferry
The Coastal Flyer only takes about 20 minutes as it scurries between St Kilda and Williamstown in Melbourne’s west. An adult ticket will set you back $20, but it’s worth the scenic run as the ferry skirts Melbourne’s most historic suburbs and offers an incredible view that many don’t often associate with Australia’s capital of cool.
The return trip is just as epic – slowly approaching St Kilda Pier and offering a breezy picture of one of Melbourne’s most timeless suburbs.
17. Catch a film at the Astor Theatre
The historic Astor Theatre opened in 1936 and has remained one of Melbourne’s most prized treasures ever since. The uncommon single-screen theatre is a time capsule of endless charm, blending a dazzlingly modern aesthetic with the grand foyer’s rich heritage details.
No self-respecting Melburnian would pass up an opportunity to catch an art-house film at The Astor, so check the schedule and plan accordingly.
18. Find a bargain at Acland Street
In addition to hosting a monthly Farmer’s Market, Acland Street Village is the pulsing heart of St Kilda’s breezy lifestyle.
The packed shopping street is a symbol of Melbourne’s eccentricity in that it hosts so many wildly different stores, from modern and vintage fashion to homewares and furniture.
There’s little doubt you’ll find a good deal while roaming around this busy street. Some highlights include Dot & Herbey Boutique, Eclectico and Ghanda Clothing.
19. Pair wine with cheese at Milk The Cow
At around ‘milking time’ – that’s 4pm not 4am – you’ll find this European-esque fromagerie absolutely jumping (but not with cows over the moon).
Indulging in a flight of wine and cheese is the St Kilda way of topping off a great day or the start of a big night.
Open until late, there are more than 70 cheeses at Milk The Cow , a wine list as thick as an encyclopaedia and if wine isn’t your thing, choose from flights of cider, beer, saké, whisky or cognac.
