26 must-try cafes on the Mornington Peninsula

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Looking for breakfast or lunch at this favourite holiday destination? We’ve got you covered with the best cafes, bakeries and coffee shops on the peninsula.

There’s no denying it… Spending time swimming at the beach or driving around doing tastings at wineries can certainly make you hungry. Early in the day, you want delicious, healthy food and a good cup of coffee. On the Mornington Peninsula, cafes are plentiful, but we’ve narrowed down the decision making by choosing 27 of our favourites. Some of these eateries are good if you’ve got kids or a dog with you, others have amazing views, and there are those that cater to dietary restrictions. All of them serve up incredible food throughout the day.

Here are the must-try cafes on the Mornington Peninsula.

THE SHORTLIST

Best coffee: Commonfolk Coffee
Best brunch: Merchant & Maker
Best views: Schnapper Point Kiosk
Most Instagrammable: Dreamer Coffee and Food
Best for vegans and vegetarians: Wombat Café

1. Blackbird Cafe

This family-run venue is known for its amazing steak sandwich, but if it’s too early in the day for that, check out the super-generous breakfast dishes. There are ricotta pancakes with berries, banana, honeycomb butter and maple syrup, shakshuka eggs, and the full big brekkie that comes with bacon, eggs, sausages, mushrooms, baked beans and grilled tomatoes. The staff members at Blackbird Cafe are incredibly friendly and won’t bat an eyelid if you arrive after the breakfast rush with your laptop to catch up on some emails or to smash out a couple more pages of your screenplay. You’ll need a coffee and a chunky slice of house-made cake for inspiration, of course.

Cuisine: Home-style

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Relaxed

Review: 4/5

Location: 2D Empire Street Mall, Mornington

2. Blue Mini

pouring coffee into a cup at Blue Mini, Mornington Peninsula
Grab an excellent cup of coffee at Blue Mini.

This used to be the Rosebud bowling alley but has been turned into a bit of an emporium, complete with locally made gifts, beauty products, pot plants and pantry staples. Then there’s the Blue Mini cafe, with its all-day brunch menu and old-school Aussie signage from Skipping Girl vinegar, Minties, Vegemite and more. There’s even a corner set up for kids to draw and play. The best part though is the big courtyard, with lots of wooden tables and mature trees around its fence line. Grab a spot out here – there’s plenty of space for the kids to run around and your doggos are welcome – and tuck into buttermilk pancakes, Malaysian pork roti canai, eggs on toast, the Istanbul burger (pulled lamb with red onion, tomato, lettuce and whipped feta on a panini) or one of the other dishes that pluck inspiration from around the globe.

Cuisine: World flavours

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Coffee and collectables

Review: 4/5

Location: 2 Colchester Road, Rosebud

3. 2 Left Sisters

You might not expect to find a favoured local venue tucked away in an industrial park, but that’s where both locals and visitors head to hang out at 2 Left Sisters . It’s a cosy spot, with exposed brick walls and a mismatched collection of tables, chairs and couches for those who want to get comfy. In winter, you’ll find the fireplace going, which makes this an even better option for breakfast or lunch, but when the weather warms, there’s a tranquil, lush outdoor courtyard. The food is hearty and homemade, with lots of different specials each week. You might get apple and cinnamon pancakes, a wrap filled with grilled chicken and salad, popcorn cauliflower with hot honey and toasted seeds, or a mushroom and haloumi burger with beetroot puree, rocket and tomato. There are plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans.

Cuisine: Hearty and homey

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Cosy and comfy

Review: 4/5

Location: 98 Watt Road, Mornington

4. Buckley

outdoor dining at Buckley, Mornington Peninsula
Enjoy breakfast alfresco.

At Buckley , the popular Sorrento cafe, there’s a spacious interior with timber tables, panelling and flooring offset by beautiful coastal-inspired art, as well as plenty of room outside on the wide footpath. The baristas are using Coffee by Inglewood beans for the Slayer and there are dishes to suit all tastes, as well as gluten-free and vegan options. We can’t go past the heirloom tomato and fior di latte on toast when it’s on the menu, but the buttermilk pancakes with berries and the prawn and green mango salad are also hard to resist.

Cuisine: Modern crowd-pleasers

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Coastal charm

Review: 4/5

Location: 174 Ocean Beach Road, Sorrento

5. Bütterken Bakery

the cafe exterior of Bütterken Bakery, Mornington Peninsula
Pop by the Bütterken Bakery for delicious baked goods. (Image: Amber Gardener)

Anita Seferian and Hendrik Roessmann are two Mornington Peninsula residents with a passion for German-style breads, so they’re making artisanal sourdough bread and other tasty treats at Bütterken Bakery . The racks are filled with seasonal loaves made from organic and wholegrain flours, but there’s plenty more to choose from, including salt rolls, pretzels, German biscuits, danishes and cinnamon scrolls. At lunchtime, grab a filled roll and coffee made from Commonfolk beans and find a spot for a picnic.

Cuisine: German breads and pastries

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Minimalist with the bakery in full view

Review: 4/5

Location: 54 Mount Eliza Way, Mount Eliza

6. Cafe 100 Mile Foodie

pastries at Cafe 100 Mile Foodie, Mornington Peninsula
Settle in for a sweet treat at Cafe 100 Mile Foodie. (Image: Yves Eyes Photography)

There are many reasons to head to this eatery on Somerville’s main street. First, owner Marlene Hoff is determined to get people to think about food miles and eating more sustainably, so everything used in the cafe is sourced from within 100 miles. Second, the purpose-built Cafe 100 Mile Foodie is a social enterprise that offers those living with a disability the chance to have paid, supported employment. The coffee is roasted at Little Rebel (the staff there also offer the staff here ongoing barista training) and the bread comes from Baker Boys, but nearly everything else, from the pie of the day to the cabinet of mouthwatering sweets is made in-house.

Cuisine: Simple and local

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Welcoming

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 1065 Frankston–Flinders Road, Somerville

7. Commonfolk Coffee

packs of seasonal blend at Commonfolk Coffee
Buy a bag of beans to take home.

Tucked in the depths of Mornington’s industrial pocket is Commonfolk Coffee . The warehouse-turned-cafe is kitted with fairy lights, exposed beams and tattooed staff, ready and waiting to sling you their house-roasted blend. Twenty cents from every coffee goes to The Cup That Counts , a foundation dedicated to creating a sustainable coffee industry, adding a morale boost to your morning brew. Choose a meal from the contemporary menu to accompany it. Heroes include scallop and prawn toast, pork belly poachies and the iced chai – all starring produce from the onsite garden, Commonfolk’s small farm and local growers. The back courtyard is dog-friendly, and there’s a kids’ menu for the little folk.

Cuisine: Classics with a twist

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Industrial

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 16 Progress Street, Mornington

8. Corner Counter

pouring milk over coffee at Corner Counter, Mornington Peninsula
The coffee at Corner Counter is a special blend from Revolution Coffee Roasters.

This sunny spot might be small, but the flavours from the petite kitchen are big. If you’re dealing with dietary restrictions – gluten-free, FODMAP, vegan, fructose-free – this is somewhere you can find something to eat. Soup is always vegan, gluten-free and made without garlic and onion, salads are packed with superfood ingredients, and the sandwiches and rolls are filled with fresh, local produce – even the sweets are made with nourishing ingredients like seeds and nuts. The coffee at Corner Counter is a special blend from Revolution Coffee Roasters and there’s a choice of plant milks from which to choose. Best of all, everything is made on the premises each morning. Grab and go, prop yourself up in the window or grab a seat on the footpath.

Cuisine: Healthy simplicity

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Sunny and fresh

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 63D Barkly Street, Mornington

9. Dreamer Coffee and Food

people dining outside the Dreamer Coffee and Food cafe in Mornington Peninsula
Dreamer Coffee and Food is the perfect morning escape. (Image: Allegra Paolo @allegrapaolophotographer)

From its pretty-in-pink striped awnings to the pendant lights that look as though they’re wrapped in hula skirts, everything about Dreamer Coffee and Food is a treat for the eyes. Inside there’s timber fluting around the bar, a communal table formed from concrete, locally designed wall hangings and a chic gift area adorned with lush trailing plants. The dishes and drinks served throughout the day, from the honey and ricotta banana bread with fresh berries and Milo crumb to the maple matcha latte topped with flower petals, will stop the scroll when you pop them on your feed. Note, though, that the kitchen here is small, so eggs are served boiled only.

Cuisine: Brekkie faves and toasties

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Coastal contemporary

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 25 Dava Drive, Mornington

10. Hunter Cafe and Store

You’ll need to get off the main drag at Rye to find this gem. It’s all vegan all the time, with plenty of gluten-free options, plus the staff are as lovely as the dishes they serve. Like many of the cafes on the peninsula, Hunter Cafe serves Commonfolk coffee and offers a choice of non-dairy milks for your flat whites and, the signature brew, snickers lattes. There’s chia porridge, breakfast bruschetta, loaded cheeseburgers and even nachos, that will make you forget you’re not vegan.

Cuisine: Plant-based plates

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Chilled out

Review: 5/5

Location: 364 Dundas Street, Rye

11. Le Capucin

a French breakfast with pastries and coffee at Le Capucin, Mornington Peninsula
Indulge in French treats.

Spontaneous picnics are almost a must after you’ve ordered your French breakfast or lunch at Le Capucin . Not that you have to head to the sprawling lawn that overlooks the water – if you’re quick you can sit at one of the tables on the covered terrace. Owner Loïc Duchet and the chefs here prepare quiches, pies, muffins and take-home meals (because you should only cook on holiday when you want to), while the croissants and pastries are from Noisette, the bread comes from Red Hill Bakers and the coffee is Five Senses. Try a breakfast brioche with egg, bacon and gruyere, a three-egg omelette, one of the filled baguettes or the boeuf bourguignon pie.

Cuisine: French but not too fancy

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Charme côtier

Review: 4.5/5

Location: Shop 1/3770 Point Nepean Road, Portsea

12. Little Rebel Coffee Roastery

a look inside Little Rebel Coffee Roastery
Little Rebel Coffee Roastery is housed in a warehouse. (Image: Caitlin Archibald/ @delightstudio.co)

Early risers will love this cafe in a colourful warehouse space. Little Rebel Coffee Roastery is open from 6.30am every weekday (although closed on weekends), so perfect for grabbing a cup to take for a walk along the beach. The roasters here choose the perfect green beans from farmers around the world and then roast them to bring out their individual flavour profiles. Order your choice of coffee from the barista or pour a cup of the latest batch brew, select a pastry, and buy a bag of beans or the grab-and-go cold brew to take home.

Cuisine: Brews and baked goods

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Industrial

Review: 4/5

Location: 22 Collins Street, Dromana 

13. Mercetta

a salmon poke bowl at Mercetta, Mornington Peninsula
Grab a salmon poke bowl at Mercetta. (Image: Amber Gardener)

Anyone heading to the peninsula should know about Mercetta . As well as being an excellent cafe, it also has an outdoor cinema in the summer. Best of all, it seats 200 people, so your gang of 10 or extended family group isn’t going to phase the staff members. Inside, it’s all exposed brickwork, hanging baskets and wall murals by street artist Dubiz. Plus, there’s a courtyard where you can take turns in the hanging chairs and play giant Jenga. Before 11am, order eggs how you like them then add on from the long list of sides or take a sweet hit with the banoffee French toast. Brekkie goes all day, but the lunch menu goes live at 11 with salads, burgers, sandwiches and more. Hats off, too, to anywhere with both a kids’ and dogs’ menu.

Cuisine: Fresh favourites with a nod to dietary requirements

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Big and bustling

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 115 Main Street, Mornington

14. Merchant & Maker

outside the Merchant & Maker cafe, McCrae
Stop by Merchant & Maker for a hearty breakfast.

McCrae favourite, the award-winning Merchant & Maker , might have an innovative menu, but its coffee, brewed using beans from nearby Commonfolk, is one of the reasons people keep coming back for more. Settle in for breakfast and order fluffy pancakes topped with fresh fruit and mascarpone or the salmon eggs benedict. It’ll set you up properly for the day ahead.

Cuisine: Fresh, innovative cafe food

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Relaxed

Review: 4/5

Location: 675 Point Nepean Road, McCrae

15. Miller’s Bread Kitchen

croissants at Miller’s Bread Kitchen
Order freshly baked croissants at Miller’s Bread Kitchen. (Image: Supplied)

Take a chef, baker and two sisters who have been friends since they were 16 and have spent much of their lives travelling the world between bouts of sharing houses and they’re bound to bring a connection to preparing delicious food. All the treats available at Miller’s Bread Kitchen – cinnamon berry scrolls, chocolate eclairs, lamb massaman pies, all types of fresh bread including seasonally topped focaccias – are baked using produce from around the Mornington Peninsula. There are excellent sandwiches – think along the lines of poached chicken, pickled zucchini and capers on focaccia – each day for lunch, too. If you’re in a hurry, order from the window of this former car wash, otherwise take a seat in the welcoming dining area. But don’t arrive too much after 1pm, because there might not be much left.

Cuisine: The finest fresh bakes

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Light and bright

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 116 Nepean Highway, Dromana

16. Nordie Cafe

a close-up of food at Nordie Cafe, Mornington Peninsula
The menu contains all the classics with a Scandi twist.

It’s a tiny taste of Scandinavia in the heart of wine country. Find Nordie Cafe , with its dark facade and green bench seats and stools, among the strip of shops at Red Hill. Inside, it’s all white and pale timber, with plants sprouting from a wall feature and food served on colourful, perfectly imperfect plates and bowls. There’s also a leafy garden and cubby house out the back that kids love – you can watch them from tables on the back deck. The menu contains all the classics, as well as some Scandi additions you mightn’t be familiar with: rösti benedict, smoked salmon smørrebrød (the famous open rye sandwich eaten in Sweden, Norway and Denmark) and a Danish hotdog, consisting of a locally made pork sausage with onions, pickles, mustard and tomato sauce on a bun. An adjoining mini-mart stocks local produce and small goods, as well as a selection of furniture from Danish design house, HAY.

Cuisine: Classics with a Scandi twist

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Minimalist

Review: 4/5

Location: 1008 Mornington–Flinders Road, Red Hill

17. Pelikan Société

a table-top view of a breakfast plate with coffee at Pelikan Société, Hastings
The family-friendly eatery offers delectable all-day dining options. (Image: Supplied)

Set on the Hastings foreshore, this smart, family-friendly eatery has views of Hastings Jetty and Western Port through the full-length windows that wrap the space. If it’s a sunny day, though, you can always choose to sit outside on the deck at Pelikan Société . The service is friendly and there’s a great range of all-day brekkie and lunch options. The signature dish is zucchini, corn and haloumi fritters served with smashed avo, poached eggs and homemade chilli jam, finished with a sprinkling of nuts and seeds. Also on the menu are classics, like a big brekkie, Caesar salad and fish and chips. There are plenty of options if you’re gluten-free, and there’s a small kids’ menu. Afterwards, go for a walk along the beach and see if you spot some of the cafe’s feathery namesakes.

Cuisine: Classics done well

Average price: $S

Atmosphere: Classy yet casual

Review: 4/5

Location: 2 Marine Parade, Hastings

18. Phase Two

a spread of food at Phase Two, Mornington Peninsula
This dainty cafe dishes up an appetising breakfast and lunch menu.

Grab a spot on the big communal table or at one of the tables along the wall at this cafe that serves brunch all day. The pops of yellow – in cushions on the bench seat and the coffee cups – against the white walls and timber floors and table give this fresh-as-a-daisy appeal. Plus, everything you see on the menu at Phase Two is available till 2pm, so it doesn’t matter if the Benny (poached eggs, wood-smoke ham, house-made hollandaise, avocado and herb oil on sourdough) catches your eye at lunchtime or the tuna melt is what you need early in the day to sort yourself out after a big night. The coffee is a Commonfolk blend or you can revisit your childhood and order a spider float.

Cuisine: Breakfast and lunch any time

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Bright and bustling

Review: 4.5/5

Location: Shop 11/3050 Frankston–Flinders Road, Balnarring 

19. Point Leo General Store

You can pick essentials for a weekend at the reopened Point Leo General Store , where the shelves are stocked with local produce, including Yolky Dokey Eggs. (It’s been serving the community for more than 75 years.) The new owners also own Miller’s Bread Kitchen, so you can drop by for pastries, croissants, topped focaccia, pies and more, as well as coffee. There are seats for about 15 people tucked into the shop, but a stop here is perfect if you fancy sitting overlooking the beach for an impromptu picnic.

Cuisine: Baked goodies

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Vintage vibes

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 14 Point Leo Road, Point Leo

20. The Somers General

local goods and artisan homewares on display inside The Somers General
The Somers General is a cafe and store in one that sells artisan homewares.

It dates back to 1927, but apart from the revamped building, there’s nothing old-fashioned about The Somers General . Now owned by locals Dean Atkins and Zoe Proctor, it still offers local goods and artisan homewares and gifts to pop in your basket, but now also serves nourishing dishes that will keep you going throughout the day. It’s located directly opposite Somers Beach, with a big deck – it overlooks Western Port Bay to Phillip Island – that’s a perfect spot to bring the kids if you’ve just been for a swim or taken them to Coolart Homestead . The coffee’s by Industry Beans, there are local wines and beers if you’re after something a bit stronger, and the menu offers the likes of scrambled eggs on organic sourdough, blueberry hotcakes, BLTs and fish and chips. The kids – anyone with a sweet tooth, really – will love a couple of scoops of Mubble ice cream, made in nearby Sorrento.

Cuisine: All your favourites

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Relaxed beachside

Review: 4/5

Location: 2 The Boulevard, Somers

21. Schnapper Point Kiosk

If you were any closer to the beach you’d have sand on your feet. The deck at SPK is the place to be on a sunny day when you can see the pier right in front of you and Melbourne in the distance. Expect delicious but simple food right through the day, starting with granola bowls and eggs on toast in the morning and steering towards spiced cauli tacos and salt and pepper squid at lunch. Oh, the kitchen here is also famous for its potato cakes. Coffee is from St Remio, but you might be pleased to know you can order a chilled glass of savvy b, a middy from Devil Bend or a yuzu cello spritz, all of which go perfectly with the outlook.

Cuisine: Crowd pleasers

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Beach shack

Review: 4/5

Location: 1 Schnapper Point Drive, Mornington

22. Somerville General Store

toasted sarnies at Somerville General Store
Order toasted sarnies or a burger.

This sunny spot takes the classic Aussie milk bar and gives it a bright, white makeover. Inside, there are polished concrete floors, with a selection of groceries on the shelves and ice-creams in deep chest freezers. But Somerville General Store ’s wooden picnic tables outside, shaded by white umbrellas, is where you’ll want to be on a summer day, especially if you’ve got Rex or Rover with you. There’s great coffee and excellent breakfast staples. At lunchtime, it’s all about fish and chips, toasted sarnies or a burger, but there’s also a selection of healthier options: wholesome bowls, turmeric lattes, fruit smoothies and a PB & J cup.

Cuisine: Cafe classics

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Fresh and friendly

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 43 Wiltshire Drive, Somerville

23. Store Fifteen

pastries and drinks at Store Fifteen, Mornington Peninsula
Pair your choice of pastries with raw smoothies, wellness teas or coffee.

Everything about Store Fifteen has a thoughtful vibe, from the wall lined with recycled timber to the statement on the menu that lends its support to local suppliers, whole foods and ecologically friendly packaging. When you add that to a tasty, healthy, meat-free menu, it’s no wonder this place is heaving with loyal customers and hungry travellers. Every morning, the team makes cold-pressed juices in bulk – ‘yellow’, a blend of pineapple, apple, passionfruit, mint and lemon, is a fave – but sell out quickly. If you’re too late, you can still get organic coffee from Dukes, wellness teas and raw smoothies. On the menu you’ll discover mushroom toast, seasonal breakfast jars, wellness bowls, superfood salads, haloumi burgers and more.

Cuisine: Healthy bites

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Rustic

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 15 Main Street, Mornington

24. Wombat Café

You all know the joke about the wombat (you know, that he eats roots and leaves?), so it should come as no surprise that an eatery named after the chunky marsupial is entirely plant-based. Far from the vegan cafes of old though, there’s not a hint of hippie to be found at Wombat Café . It’s all very slick, with terrazzo floors, timber-top tables, a bright farm animal mural on one wall and pretty mint-green cups and saucers used to serve local Little Rebel coffee, gingerbread lattes and Shanti chairs. The blackboard menu changes daily, depending on what’s in season, but you could find yourself tucking into banana pancakes with berry compote and coconut ice cream, scrambled tofu or a cheese, tomato and pesto toasty. OK, confession time: the cafe’s not really named after the wombat animal but the mountain bike trails across the road in the Arthurs Seat State Forest.

Cuisine: 100% vegan

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Relaxed

Review: 4/5

Location: 230 Boundary Road, Dromana

25. Two Boys A Beagle and a Coffee Shop

pea & potato soup at 2B1B
The loaded pea & potato soup at 2B1B is a must-try. (Image: @twoboysonebeagle)

Although not strictly on the ’Ninch, the cute-as-a-button 2B1B (as everyone refers to it) is worth a mention, especially for those who might need a car break on the way. From the blue-tiled exterior to the candy-pink walls inside, it oozes welcome. Take one of the tables on the footpath, before ordering up brunch specials jam-packed with Mornington Peninsula produce – think blueberry waffles, fried brisket toasties and Benedict Crumperbatch (poached eggs and hollandaise served with Dr Marty’s crumpets) – as well as a Commonfolk coffee. There’s a nice kids’ menu, plus they can whip up a puppacino for your best bud.

Cuisine: Brunchy goodness

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Welcoming

Review: 4.5/5

Location: 59 Kareela Road, Frankston

26. Zarb & Ru

The trick to keeping costs down in a cafe setting is to make sure the menu is short and simple. That’s what you get at Zarb & Ru , where you can select from a range of jaffles – baked beans and cheddar is known as the Cowboy – and paninis to go with your locally sourced coffee. There are gluten-free options available and pastries if you need something sweet. It’s a cute little spot in the Rosebud shops, with plenty of seating outside. Best of all, most of the menu comes in at under $10.

Cuisine: All between bread

Average price: $

Atmosphere: Friendly

Review: 4/5

Location: 1037 Point Nepean Road, Rosebud

Carrie Hutchinson
Carrie Hutchinson is a writer and editor for publications and clients around the world. A transplant to Melbourne, she loves nothing more than sharing the riches of her corner of the world with others through her stories and images. Otherwise, her happy place is the ocean, especially if it involves swimming with large marine creatures. Sharks, wild dolphins, a cuttlefish congregation and manta rays have been eyeballed, and Carrie is now seeking out opportunities to splash with whales and marine iguanas.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.