The best places to eat and drink on the Mornington Peninsula

A magnet for gourmands and explorers alike, the best way to get to know the Mornington Peninsula is by eating your way through it.

Thanks to a rich history of local farming and fishing, the Mornington Peninsula boasts an abundance of sea and fresh produce. Whatever is in season often dictates the menus of surrounding establishments, which means you can taste the harvest cooked to perfection at esteemed eateries.

Take a backcountry drive along the peninsula and fill up on delights for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here are our picks.

Breakfast/brunch

Commonfolk

Tucked in the depths of Mornington’s industrial pocket, Commonfolk Coffee is the perfect alfresco hipster hangout. The warehouse-cum-café is kitted with fairy-lights, exposed beams and beautifully tattooed staff, ready and waiting to sling you their house-roasted blend. Twenty cents from every coffee helps set up sustainable farms in Uganda, adding a morale boost to your morning brew. Choose a meal from the contemporary menu to accompany it. Heroes include the banoffee-inspired smoothie, breakfast burrito and the customisable poke bowls – all starring produce from the onsite garden.

Merchant & Maker

McCrae favourite Merchant & Maker has been dubbed the best café on the Peninsula three years running. Thanks to an innovative menu and recent interior makeover, modern breakfast classics fly out the door daily. White chocolate and mascarpone mousse pancakes, chipotle braised beans with slow-roasted pork belly, zucchini and chickpea fritters matched with goat’s curd. Pair it with a coffee from sibling roasters Commonfolk and you’ll be ready for a day of beach-hopping.

Merchant and Maker McCrae — Merchant & Maker has been dubbed the best café on the Peninsula three years running

Captains of Rye

Opposite the beach on Rye’s Point Nepean Road, owner Rob Capa describes his café as “Brunswick, but 20 years ago." The graffiti-clad space has a real rustic charm, kitted out with mismatched furniture, pin-up girls plastered to the walls and a hearty menu. Eggs benny is the winner here, as well as their generous-sized house burgers.

Nordie Café

Taste a bit of Scandinavia right in the heart of wine country. Find Nordie among the familiar strip of Red Hill shops with a dark façade and green benches. The menu contains all the classics, as well as some Scandi additions you mightn’t be familiar with, such as smørrebrød, an open rye sandwich, or the Copenhagen hotdog, a locally-made bratwurst with all the embellishments. An adjoining mini-mart stocks local produce and small goods, as well as a selection of HAY furniture.

Nordi Cafe Red Hill — A bit of Scandi style and culture on the Peninsula

Mr. Curtis

The best views in Mount Martha are just par for the course at Mr. Curtis . This tapas bar serves dishes inspired by Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines, think falafel poached eggs, saganaki or a spiced chickpea salad. Grab a table on the wraparound deck and watch breakfast blur into lunch, and lunch into dinner. Local cakes and pastries are usual fare here, as well as favourites Commonfolk coffee and daily specials.

Lunch

Rare Hare

If you’re planning a trip to the Mornington Peninsula, Jackalope undeniably needs to be a part of your itinerary – if not to stay, then to eat and appreciate. The hotel’s more casual bistro, Rare Hare , offers a great place to sit and enjoy a long lunch. Enjoy duck leg, barramundi wings and wood roasted zucchini – or if you’ve overindulged at breakfast, this is the spot for a lighter offering such as a charcuterie plate and a glass of wine. Just beware, spaces fill quickly (even on weekdays) so book your table yesterday.

Polperro

Polperro comes with all the bells and whistles you’d expect from an upscale Peninsula winery. Premium pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris are served by the glass and bottle, surrounded by a colourful kitchen garden and sundrenched deck. Enjoy a long lunch in summer with duck confit, arancini and stracciatella, then kick on with drinks and tunes into the early evening.

Paringa

Two hatted Paringa Estate is one of the most celebrated food and wine destinations in the Peninsula. A plush interior and slick Corbusian façade provide the perfect backdrop for a midday sojourn. Outside, the undulating vineyard slopes are only one-upped by the field of roaming Toulouse geese. The tasting menu rotates seasonally, utilising local produce every step of the way. Beef sourced from Gippsland, pork from the Western Plains of Victoria and seafood from the local coast. Wash it down with a glass of one of three series wines.

The Epicurean

Housed in a former historic cool store and packing shed, Red Hill’s Epicurean is a restaurant and event haven in the hinterland. The Shed is the onsite restaurant, serving wood-fired pizzas to the masses alongside plant-based mains, salads, cheese boards and classic sides. As well as food, the venue also has space for a bar and a selection of local wines for mini-tasting sessions.

Red Hill Epicurean — Red Hill’s Epicurean is a restaurant and event haven in the hinterland

Ten Minutes By Tractor

Stop for a no-brainer lunch at the breezy two-hatted Ten Minutes By Tractor. The eponymous restaurant with almost-too-beautiful-to-eat dishes overlooks the vines, where you can chat with winemakers who are changing up their practices and moving towards full organic cultivation. A new cellar door recently opened if you want to sample a few but haven’t got time for a meal – the winery was impacted by fire a while back and the reinvigorated cellar door experience is impressive. The name, by the way, refers to their vineyards, which are all just 10 minutes from each other by tractor. Clever, hey!

Dinner

Doot Doot Doot

We weren’t kidding – Jackalope is a must when you come to the Peninsula. Neighbouring the aforementioned Rare Hare, Doot Doot Doot is executive chef Guy Stanaway’s one-hatted fine-dining restaurant. On offer is a five-course tasting menu that makes the most of the plentiful produce from local providores on the peninsula. The space is aesthetic and warm, mostly thanks to Jan Flook’s ceiling light installation of 10,000 amber globes that dim and brighten with a shimmering effect.

Fish Fetish

As the day reaches its pointy end, head straight for Fish Fetish on Sorrento’s main Ocean Beach Road. This humble joint has been around forever which explains the lines that form out the door on most given afternoons. Pick your poison off the blackboard menu hung above the hard-working staff. Non-soggy chips, a decent bit of fish, maybe a dim sim or calamari to mix it up, a wedge of lemon, some salt, brown or white vinegar, some tomato sauce and that’s it. Head straight to any stretch of Peninsula sand and enjoy. PS: don’t feed the seagulls.

The Portsea Pub

Heralded as the wealthiest postcode in Australia, Portsea is the last town on the Mornington Peninsula. The luxurious little village is a sanctuary by the sea, and its pub is the heart and soul of the region. A recent upgrade to the venue and adjoining hotel was more than a lick of paint, adding a rotating art gallery, panoramic beer garden on the water’s edge and a few bars. Cliff’s Bar is a California-inspired burger bar with all the trimmings. Neighbouring RIP Bar will serve whisky to lure guests in the cooler months, and the second-floor Bertram Bar has panoramic ocean views.

DOC Mornington

Come for the top-notch pizza, stay for the charming service. DOC Mornington serves as the sister outfit to Carlton’s celebrated venture, featuring an adjoining Italian supermarket. You’ll find mozzarella and salumi of honourable provenance plus a great Italian-leaning wine list to back it all up. Simplicity and tradition are key here, so don’t expect complicated toppings. The San Daniele with DOP buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto is a signature, while the Pizza ai Porcini with wild mushrooms, mozzarella, pecorino and truffle oil is more than seductive.

DOC pizza Mornington — Your Peninsula plans should definitely involve pizza

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet

The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.

Split point lookout — The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.

Lorne to Birregurra

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.

Brae restaurant — Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.

The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.

Port Campbell to Timboon

Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.

Warrnambool to Port Fairy

Warrnambool building — A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.