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This stunning WA hike offers an antidote to loneliness

Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld

Meeting new people can be difficult. But a slow-burn hike through WA’s coastal wilderness may be the antidote to loneliness.

“OK, phone’s going off. Gosh, that feels good." This is my introduction to Andy Burgess, one of eight hikers – mostly strangers to one another – who have come together for an ‘open group experience’ through Western Australia’s coastal wilderness. We’ve been striding over granite rock and robust tree roots for maybe a quarter of an hour when Andy sets the tone for our multi-day wander: digital disconnection. I like him immediately.

It feels unusual to set off on the wending Bibbulmun Track not with a bunch of friends or family members, but with a group of unknowns: three blokes and five women. We have 60 kilometres to get to know one another without the usual inconveniences of foot travel: our tents will be pitched for us, inflatable mattresses pumped, beds made with real pillows and fresh towels supplied. Luggage is couriered. Even our meals will be prepared for us to cook, and packed lunches delivered. It’s how things are done by WA hiking outfit Cape2Camp, which is branching out beyond Margaret River for the first time.

the river meets the sea, Bibbulmun Track
Enjoy stunning coastal views and natural landscapes. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a couple by the beach, Bibbulmun Track
The 60-kilometre-long hiking and tenting experience is broken up by beach swims. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
spherical yellow flower heads
Spot wildflowers along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a camp setup on the Bibbulmun Track
The camp set-up follows Leave No Trace principles. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a charcuterie board provided by Cape2Camp
Cape2Camp caters all meals. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the campfire setup on Bibbulmun Track
The ‘walk-in, walk-out’ experience includes showers and campfires. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Today, we are setting off from the other Denmark (yes, there are two), a forest-speared town some four and a half hours’ drive south of Perth/Boorloo. We’d met by candlelight the night before, tucking into kangaroo bolognaise while getting a briefing from Anne Nordgard, the Norwegian expat behind Cape2Camp, who zips ahead to sprinkle fairy dust for our light-travel arrival.

kangaroos along the Bibbulmun Track
See kangaroos along the Bibbulmun Track. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

For me – a busy woman juggling work, kids and a social life – the idea of escaping to a far-flung wilderness with not a single obligation to meet is heaven. I wake to roos grazing under native peppermint trees and a kookaburra perched on the campground’s fire hydrant hose, surveying jaunts to the communal bathroom.

Day one

WA's Bibbulmun Track from above
Hit the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Day one is an ambitious (in my mind) 24-kilometre hike. A strident pace sees the group fragment, but as periphery-bending views of farmland cause each one of us to pause and marvel at black cattle dots on green, we regroup. Conversations spark as feet thread through tall dense reeds and scrub that’s cut closely to the trail edge, with springy heath cushioning Earth’s floor. Talking topics roam from learning to play bass and choosing high schools to family business succession plans and grandparenting styles. Step by step, we connect.

rugged coastal cliffs from above on Bibbulmun Track
Snake your way along rugged coastal cliffs. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

Before sundown we’ve discovered there’s only one couple in the group; the rest of us have unhooked from partners and kids as we seek renewal in nature. There are many flavours in the crew: a doctor, a geologist, a banker and a government worker. Yet every one of us seems to click.

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Day two

the Great Southern coast from above
Hikers are dwarfed by the scale of the Great Southern coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

A swim at Parry Beach marks day two – more fun than the solar-powered (and therefore cold) camp showers. Our group drops down to six as a knee injury sees the couple head home. There’s consensus that a leisurely start to our 12-kilometre outlook is the way to go. I think I’ve found my people. We lope on a trail now marked by white sand and succulent strands, evolving into the kind of rambling native garden you’d pay a fortune to create. Distant rain magnetises to the ocean, sheets landing in a line of silver. My eyes flick to the immense splash of a whale breaching. A rainbow appears – the first of countless in this region, which was once called the Rainbow Coast. Could this little-known track be one of the most beautiful hikes in Australia?

hikers walking along the beach, Bibbulmun Track
There are opportunities to spot whales and dolphins along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the small Cape2Camp group on the Bibbulmun Track
The small Cape2Camp group find their rhythm while moving through the landscape. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
hikers in formation along the shore
Hikers in formation along the shoreline. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
native grass trees along Bibbulmun Track
Flowering native grass trees line the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
wildflowers along the coast
Wildflowers carpet the coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
a distinctive shrub in a remote forest in WA
A distinctive shrub native to the southwest of Western Australia. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
the coast from above, Bibbulmun Track
Hike through WA’s coastal wilderness. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

 

Blisters have got me already. Fellow hikers offer bandaids and wait as I unlace my boots and peel off double sock layers. They’re a supportive bunch; the easy patience and generosity endear us to one another further.

By the time we reach a cove that curls like Wineglass Bay, edged by granite mounds and sparkling pale blue, the group is nearly ready for Andy’s Superman boxers. We’ve opted for an underwear swim, but the fashion choice is a surprise. “It’s a joke gift from my kids at Christmas," he pleads. I dive underwater with eyes open, facing a haze of Tiffany blue. “The water’s so clear I can see the wrinkles in my toes," says Andy, in a last-ditch effort to divert attention.

We arrive to a new bush camp fully set up, a delight celebrated with a local Raintree pinot noir and a sophisticated cheese board. As the Milky Way outdoes a string of fairy lights, we share highlights so far. “It’s the long conversations that are just for joy," says retired GP Marcus Middleton. “Particularly as a bloke, that’s a really rich experience." Financier Nhi To loves the organic connections with people she’d never otherwise meet. “You make all your adult friends through school and the kids," she says. “It’s hard to make friends as adults. When you go on a journey together, it bonds you." In this time of loneliness epidemics, what better salve could there be?

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Day three

hikers taking the Bibbulmun Track
The three-day camping trip ensures immersion in nature. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)

A misting rain coats day three – and I’m hobbling – but we kayak successfully across a river, laughing as more toes are strapped. The white flag goes up after 20 kilometres. We’re collected and driven back to base, three kilometres short of the finish line. As a smuggled-in whisky flagon is gleefully shared, we agree to meet up in a month, our fast-track friendships pledged to last well beyond the enchanting path we’ve travelled.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

From Perth/Boorloo, Denmark is about 4.5 hours’ drive south. Alternatively, fly into Albany-Drome Airport and make the 45-minute drive west to Denmark.

Playing there

The Great Southern walk with Cape2Camp is a four-night experience featuring three days of hiking along Western Australia’s Bibbulmun Track, from Ocean Beach to Peaceful Bay. The tour includes all meals, drinks, tented accommodation and hand-luggage transfers between campsites. Prices start from $1290 per person (twin share). Private group bookings are available for a minimum of four guests.

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Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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Why this luxurious Broome resort is the ultimate stay

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    With its prime position on one of Australia’s most iconic beaches, lush tropical surrounds and exceptional dining, wellness and leisure experiences, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the perfect base for exploring the spectacular Kimberley region.

    For many travellers, Broome is the gateway to the wild grandeur of the Kimberley – a launch point for epic 4WD journeys along the legendary Gibb River Road, rugged outback tours and expedition cruises tracing the remote coastline. Whether you’re arriving dust-covered from the red dirt or preparing to venture deep into the region’s untamed landscapes, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa offers the perfect place to begin or end the adventure. The only fully integrated resort in Broome, the property unfolds along meandering pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens, past tranquil lily ponds and hand-carved timber sculptures that subtly guide guests towards reception.

    Location

    camel ride along cable beach broome
    Let friendly staff help you book a camel ride on Cable Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA/ Matt Deakin)

    Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa lies just steps from the famed Cable Beach, where the silhouettes of camels crossing the shoreline at sunset have become one of Australia’s most enduring tourism images. The only beachfront resort in Broome, it’s also just a few minutes’ drive to the centre of town, where guests can wander through Chinatown and peruse its pearl stores and galleries or catch a movie beneath the stars at the heritage-listed Sun Pictures.

    The friendly team at the resort’s tour desk can also help tailor your stay, whether that’s an iconic camel ride along the beach, a visit to Willie Creek Pearl Farm to discover how the gems are harvested or a guided tour to see the ancient dinosaur footprints revealed among the rust-red rocks of Gantheaume Point at low tide.

    Style and character

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome lobby
    Walk into an eclectic blend of influences and eras.

    Few resorts capture the essence of their surroundings quite like Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa. First opened in 1988, the resort is a celebration of Broome’s rich multicultural past, from its Japanese pearl divers to Chinese merchants. The result is an eclectic blend of influences and eras. The resort features wide timber verandahs, corrugated iron walls and tin roofs designed to temper the tropical climate. To keep it breezy, Broome’s signature lattice (a distinct painted timber lattice detailing iconic to the tropical architecture of the Kimberley region) has been used across the resort with two functions – allowing a breeze through while maintaining privacy.

    Scattered throughout the manicured gardens is an impressive collection of rare Asian and international artefacts. Chinese bluestone lions stand sentinel at the entrance, while terracotta warrior horses, vermillion Japanese torii gates and traditional Shishi (lion-dog) statues lend an air of quiet grandeur. Fragrant with frangipani blossoms and shaded by century-old boab and mango trees, the grounds are also a haven for native wildlife. Birds provide a constant soundtrack, while wallabies and tiny lizards rustle through the foliage.

    Rooms

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome Price Jones Suite
    Sleep in comfort and style.

    The extensive accommodation options span studios, bungalows, club apartments, villas and suites. Family bungalows draw inspiration from the grand homes of Broome’s pearl masters, translating that heritage into generous layouts, high ceilings and verandahs that open to the gardens. Studios and villas are perfect for couples and solo stays, pairing soft coastal tones with private balconies or courtyards. While club apartments and suites are designed for longer stays, offering multiple bedrooms, kitchen facilities and seamless indoor-outdoor living.

    Food and drink

    kichi kichi at Cable Beach Club Resort broome
    Tuck into an Asian fusion menu at Kichi Kichi.

    The dining scene at Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa reflects Broome’s position at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean and Asia, where coastal produce meets a tapestry of multicultural influences.

    Contemporary Asian fusion dishes – from crisp fried pork belly and roast Peking duck breast to Burmese lamb curry – deliver bold, vibrant flavours at Kichi Kichi. While the handmade tortellini filled with pearl meat and prawn served at atmospheric Italian restaurant, Cichetti, is the kind of dish that you will remember long after the final bite. Elsewhere on the menu, find effortless flair across dishes like Wedge Island octopus, market fish crudo and silky goat’s milk panna cotta.

    As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, Sunset Bar & Grill becomes the place to be. Here, guests gather over freshly shucked oysters, cured meat platters and buckets of sweet Exmouth prawns. Or, for a quieter evening in, guests can retreat to the comfort of their room and order from Cable Eats, the resort’s in-room dining service.

    Pools

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome ocean pool
    Relax by the adults-only Ocean Pool.

    Two distinct pool settings invite guests to shape their day exactly as they please. Drift into the calm of the adults-only Ocean Pool, where attentive service delivers dishes such as grilled prawn skewers and salt-and-pepper calamari straight to your cabana or sunbed well into the afternoon.

    The mood at the family-friendly Kimberley Pool – framed by a cascading waterfall, the heart of the resort’s recreational precinct – is decidedly more playful. Here, younger guests are catered for with a dedicated kids’ menu of familiar favourites including chicken nuggets, fish and chips and ham-and-cheese toasties, while parents can graze on more refined poolside fare, such as fried squid, soba noodle salad and gourmet burgers.

    Chahoya Spa & Salon

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome Chahoya Spa
    Book a treatment at Chahoya Spa.

    Chahoya Spa brings a refined sense of indulgence inspired by its Japanese name, meaning “pamper”, with signature treatments including the Kimberley Dreamtime ritual and Chahoya Pearl Massage designed to soothe tired bodies and quiet busy minds. There is also an on-site salon providing personalised cuts, colour services and restorative hair care, ensuring guests leave feeling polished and renewed.

    Other facilities

    yoga class in the buddha sanctuary at Cable Beach Club Resort broome
    Join a yoga class at the Buddha Sanctuary.

    Wellness continues at the Buddha Sanctuary, a serene open-air pavilion just beyond the main resort grounds, where yoga classes are held six days a week amid ornamental gardens and a striking 3.5-metre hand-carved crystal Buddha statue. Beyond the sanctuary, the resort caters to every pace of stay, with a children’s playground, mini golf, tennis courts and a fully-equipped gym. Guests can also browse the resort’s boutique gift shop, home to Allure South Sea Pearls – the brand behind Broome’s first dedicated pearl boutique in Chinatown.

    Book the ultimate Broome getaway at cablebeachclub.com.