The best ways to experience the pristine Ningaloo Reef

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The pictures you see of World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef almost seem too good to be true: a whale shark cruising towards you as smoothly as an ocean liner, a manta ray executing a perfect loop in crystal clear ocean, turtles stopping to nibble on coral, oblivious you’re watching from less than one metre away, and tropical fish, absolutely everywhere you look.

 

The world’s closest fringing reef has a lot going for it, and that’s before you realise you can actually just wade into it. No need for a lengthy boat ride to reach this extraordinary slab of nature: you simply don a snorkel mask, throw a few lazy freestyle motions through the big blue and by the time your eyes focus, you’re skimming over coral gardens. Yes, you will actually want to pinch yourself – we know from experience.

Coral Bay Turtle
Swimming with turtles at Coral Bay

Base camp: Exmouth or Coral Bay?

Ningaloo Reef stretches along the coast for 300 kilometres and two sun-kissed towns service it with tours, accommodation and fun times: Exmouth and Coral Bay. Larger Exmouth has an airport (called Learmonth) with Qantas flights operating daily and car hire, whereas you’ll need to drive to Coral Bay. Exmouth tips a slender peninsula and the reef and beaches must be reached by road, whereas Coral Bay sits on soft white sands and you can wander to the beachfront on foot. Both towns offer whale shark and humpback whale swim-tours, while manta ray swims are only accessible from Coral Bay.

Swimming with whale sharks

Being wowed by the size of a whale shark is what a swim experience is all about… right? But when you’re watching these gentle giants of the ocean glide by, you’ll notice the white patterns on their backs that appear to be dancing. Like light slicing through ocean, these dots and squiggles are as captivating as the vacuum-like jaws and 300 tiny, harmless teeth of the world’s biggest fish.

whale shark ningaloo reef
Get up close and personal with these gentle giants

 

How: Numerous charter boats run full-day, all-inclusive whale shark trips.

When: March to August

Frolicking with humpbacks

Humpback whales are regarded as the most playful of all the species found along WA’s extensive coastline. It’s estimated about 35,000 of them migrate along the state’s aquatic edge each year, and Ningaloo Reef is at the centre of that journey. Humpback interaction tours allow you to swim to within 30 metres of these immense whales, although many are curious enough to come closer – and if they choose it, it’s allowed. Cross your fingers.

 

How: Numerous charter boats run humpback day trips.

When: August to October

Ballet with manta rays and flying with turtles

Manta rays are astonishingly inquisitive. They’re also far bigger than you might imagine, so when one does a fly-by past your ear, it can be a little unnerving. Keep calm – they don’t have barbs – and join their graceful ocean dance; soon you’ll be doing somersaults and twists, mimicking their movements. Sea turtles tend to look like they’re flying through the water, and there’s a good chance you’ll see plenty on one of these trips. After all, Ningaloo Reef has one of the most biologically diverse marine environments on the planet.

Manta rays ocean
Watch as they effortlessly glide through the water

 

How: Coral Bay’s charter boats hold manta ray swim experiences.

When: All year round

The must-see beaches

In early 2019, West Australians voted Turquoise Bay as the state’s most incredible beach. Its pale sands are captivating, but it’s the phenomenal colour of the water – and what’s beneath it – that we think sees it rated so highly. A gentle current runs parallel with the beach, so snorkellers can walk away from the carpark, step into the water and drift back, watching a veritable showreel of coral and fish as they float. Further south, Coral Bay is another firm favourite. Crystalline water, a motionless lagoon and swimmable access to the reef make this bay hard to beat.

 

How: You can self-drive; from Exmouth, Turquoise Bay is 70 kilometres and Coral Bay is 150 kilometres.

When: All year round

Where the outback meets the ocean

While all eyes are turned to Ningaloo Reef’s coastline, it pays to take a backward glance toward Cape Range National Park. The rugged ranges harbour caves, canyons and rare plant and animal species such as the white-centred Sturt’s Desert Pea and shy, black-footed rock wallabies. Join a gorge cruise at Yardie Creek or follow a view-blessed walking trail such as the one at Mandu Mandu Gorge.

Cape Range National Park
The vast and vibrant Cape Range National Park is just as awe-inspiring

 

How: Head there by self-drive or tour; contact the Exmouth Visitor Centre for information

When: All year round but best in the cooler months of April to October

Stay in style

If money’s no object, Sal Salis is your answer. Its exclusive wilderness tents furnished with polished floors and king-size beds are pure outback luxury. Over the dunes, the reef seems closer to shore than anywhere else, and the snorkelling is spectacular. In Exmouth, Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has 4.5-star hotel rooms or self-contained apartments clustering around its impressive pool and restaurant.

Sal Salis glamping
Immerse yourself in glamping at its finest

 

How: Sal Salis is a one-hour drive from Exmouth, or 90 minutes from the airport; Mantarays is a 15-minute drive from the airport.

When: Sal Salis is open March to October; Mantarays is open year round.

Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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7 Kimberley experiences that need to be on your bucket list

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck
Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

​​Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift,  the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,  turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com